380PP NR-A Roadster Cup

  • Thread starter Adrenaline
  • 312 comments
  • 85,251 views
Well, turns out all the races are winnable on CH tyres too. London and Eifel took me two attemtps on each, with London only being because one AI car made every attempt to pancake me into the barriers. The other races I did first time around, though I don't fancy lowering the PP too much on CH's if I was to set myself an extra challenge.
 
Really bummed that they are forcing us onto comfort tyres. At least let us use sports tyres. For me, even slow cars are too hard to control on comforts. They slide way too much.
 
I can win the oval track with a 89 MX5 set up to 376 PP and geared to 250 kmh top speed.
I can win the same event in a 2000 1800 RS at 380 PP and geared to 155 mph.
However I am 2 seconds a lap slower in a 2004 1800 RS set at 380 PP same gearing and suspension settings as the 2000 model.
The 2004 is at a higher PP value stock and needs less upgrades to get it to 380 PP than the 2000 model.
Anybody else found this ?
 
Motor City Hami
I haven't posted this tune to my garage yet because I am still working on it. The 89 premium Miata was always an easy car to make handle well until the 2.09 update. I have been working on the car over the past week to get some of the added 2.09 understeer out of the car, but may have gone too far. Below is the tune so far. I will post the final tune sometime this weekend.

2011 Mazda '89 NA Special Package from Premium Garage
166hp, 831kg, 380PP
DS3, stick extenders, ABS 1, all other aids off.

GT Auto
Oil change after 200 mile break in

Installed Parts
Weight Reduction 3
Window Weight Reduction
Carbon Hood
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Titanium Racing Exhaust
Fully Customizable Transmission
Clutch: Twin-Plate
Flywheel: Semi-Racing
Carbon Drive Shaft
Adjustable LSD
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Comfort Soft Tires

Online/Offline Tune
RH -15/-10
Springs 10.0/5.5
Dampers ext 8/4
Dampers comp 4/3
ARB 3/3
Camber 2.2/2.0
Toe -0.17/0.10
LSD 9/11/5
Brake 4/8
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 55/45
Power Level 99.4%
Final gear to 4.000
Top gear to 112mph/180kph
1st gear 3.900
2nd gear 2.650
3rd gear 2.030
4th gear 1.655
5th gear 1.400
Final gear 2.650
Top gear 112mph/180kph
Top Speed 158 mph

If the car is too loose for you on entry, raise the LSD decel a bit and make the brake balance more even.

If the car is too loose for you all the way through the corners, either lower front springs or raise rear or both. Springs more even will calm the car down some.

Loose is fast, if you can hang onto it.
Click to expand...
Used this package for all. Just adjusted final. London and Eifel hardest (two attempts each). Fun though. Will try CH challenge.
 
UrieHusky
Has anybody else noticed, on indy. The cars are all positioned for perfect drafting with an underpowered car? :lol:

Yeah, I had my Max Speed set at 155mph. The car would not clear 140mph without help from the "draft"!!!!!!
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
How did Johnny boy do? Here's how...

* I couldn't find the speed to get around Indy with enough speed and power to pass the other cars. My best was 4th after two tries (5th in my first). I prefer racing Indianapolis more than I do Daytona as far as ovals are concerned. I've seemed to have better luck at Indy than I do at Daytona often times.

* Up next was London. I felt like I wasn't doing so well in my first try, so I restarted and ended up finishing 3rd. I couldn't pass the 2nd Place car in time to grab silver.

* I won in my first try at Suzuka. Kept the car on the road and drove with focus. Suzuka usually isn't one of my better tracks.

* I think I was down by about 4 seconds at Trial Mountain (speaking of tracks that aren't my better ones), but managed to win on the last lap. I made the pass for the lead at about the final tunnel.

* Second was the best I could do in just one attempt at the generated kart track.


This would be my summary- I fail on an oval, a short street course, and a generated track; but I manage to win on one try at a technical F1 track and an undulating roller coaster of a race track. Story of my life. I like the Miata. It's just too bad this car gets such a bad rap from most people. At least it's an affordable RWD sports car.

By the way, I was using my 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 for this Seasonal. I had to tune it down from its 411PP form.
 
I used the premium '91 Eunos

Weight: 845kg( no carbon bonnet)
Stage 3 turbo
Stage 3 engine
RH: 0/0
Springs: F7.0/R5.0
Dampers: ext.F1/R1
Dampers: comp.F2/R2
Anti-roll: F5/R4
Camber: F-1.0/R-2.0
Stock trans
Twin plate clutch
Semi flywheel
LSD: 40:30:30

Won each race once but Eifel. Learned the pattern of the cars at the 3rd try.
 
Ills1999
I understand. Just as nobody is forcing people to complain over and over about SRF, nor are they being "forced" to play seasonals if they've 'outgrown' them. Obviously, PD has heard the complaints and has, for some reason, chose to ignore them.

The warning you issued me should be issued to all who choose to go on and on about this issue.

Maybe those who feel SRF is 'beneath' them can slap on some comfort hards and get over it?
Click to expand...
I have to agree with you here, too many people complaining about something that can't be changed.

StirlingMoose
SRF forced on again. What the **** are they thinking? Back to the TT then. Won't be bothering with this one.
Click to expand...

Again, this should be seen as a pointless post yet the heirarchy on this site never get reprimanded.

Adrenaline
There's an entire thread for discussions relating to SRF. That includes the people for it, against it, the people complaining about the people for it, and the people complaining about the people against it. Please use the proper thread: SRF on seasonals

This thread should be used to discuss the actual seasonal itself, strategies, tunes and cars used to be successful in it. Not the aids that we can do nothing about. A Mod has already warned us about spamming the thread with these type of posts, I recommend we heed his suggestion.
Click to expand...

Couldn't have said it any better myself. I came on here looking for a decent tune for this seasonal but have to sift through mindless posts on an unrelated issue altogether. Come on moderators, lets be consistent and stop there SRF sensationalists please.
 
05XR8
I used the premium '91 Eunos

Weight: 845kg( no carbon bonnet)
Stage 3 turbo
Stage 3 engine
RH: 0/0
Springs: F7.0/R5.0
Dampers: ext.F1/R1
Dampers: comp.F2/R2
Anti-roll: F5/R4
Camber: F-1.0/R-2.0
Stock trans
Twin plate clutch
Semi flywheel
LSD: 40:30:30

Won each race once but Eifel. Learned the pattern of the cars at the 3rd try.
Click to expand...

Thanks will give this a bash, looks like it could be a good starting platform.
 
Really getting sick and tired of finishing 4th going around Indy in a POS that has no business being in that track!!!
 
stevenk27
Come on moderators, lets be consistent and stop there SRF sensationalists please.
Click to expand...
What's your agenda here Steven? Most of us 'SRF sensationalists' are people who post informative, intelligent information on this site on a regular basis. Adrenaline's reply was directed at me and I took it in good spirit as I consider him a friend. Your post is inflammatory and at least as useless as the SRF posts you complain about.

Back on topic:
DaveTheStalker
Really getting sick and tired of finishing 4th going around Indy in a POS that has no business being in that track!!!
Click to expand...
Have you tried upping your transmission's max speed about 30 kmh and drafting?
 
DaveTheStalker
Really getting sick and tired of finishing 4th going around Indy in a POS that has no business being in that track!!!
Click to expand...
Which Miata are you trying to use? Thanks to V2:10 the slightly older models get a huge bonus.
I started with an '04 right at 380PP and was seriously struggling. Then switched to a '97 and at 340PP had more power and over 100kg less weight despite using ballast. (lightened it then used ballast to make it 50/50) Bringing the '97 up to 380PP made all the races extremely easy to win. 340 is doable but you have to drive very cleanly on London.
 
Motor City Hami
I haven't posted this tune to my garage yet because I am still working on it. The 89 premium Miata was always an easy car to make handle well until the 2.09 update. I have been working on the car over the past week to get some of the added 2.09 understeer out of the car, but may have gone too far. Below is the tune so far. I will post the final tune sometime this weekend.

2011 Mazda '89 NA Special Package from Premium Garage
166hp, 831kg, 380PP
DS3, stick extenders, ABS 1, all other aids off.

GT Auto
Oil change after 200 mile break in

Installed Parts
Weight Reduction 3
Window Weight Reduction
Carbon Hood
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Titanium Racing Exhaust
Fully Customizable Transmission
Clutch: Twin-Plate
Flywheel: Semi-Racing
Carbon Drive Shaft
Adjustable LSD
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Comfort Soft Tires

Online/Offline Tune
RH -15/-10
Springs 10.0/5.5
Dampers ext 8/4
Dampers comp 4/3
ARB 3/3
Camber 2.2/2.0
Toe -0.17/0.10
LSD 9/11/5
Brake 4/8
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 55/45
Power Level 99.4%
Final gear to 4.000
Top gear to 112mph/180kph
1st gear 3.900
2nd gear 2.650
3rd gear 2.030
4th gear 1.655
5th gear 1.400
Final gear 2.650
Top gear 112mph/180kph
Top Speed 158 mph

If the car is too loose for you on entry, raise the LSD decel a bit and make the brake balance more even.

If the car is too loose for you all the way through the corners, either lower front springs or raise rear or both. Springs more even will calm the car down some.

Loose is fast, if you can hang onto it.
Click to expand...

Try adding a STAGE 3 Turbo and 200 kg ballast. This improved my times at Indy by 3 secs a lap, virtually no need for drafting.

Gives you circa 223 bhp.
 
Last edited:
Uncle Harry
I can win the oval track with a 89 MX5 set up to 376 PP and geared to 250 kmh top speed.
I can win the same event in a 2000 1800 RS at 380 PP and geared to 155 mph.
However I am 2 seconds a lap slower in a 2004 1800 RS set at 380 PP same gearing and suspension settings as the 2000 model.
The 2004 is at a higher PP value stock and needs less upgrades to get it to 380 PP than the 2000 model.
Anybody else found this ?
Click to expand...

Like a fool, I bought the highest pp Mazda from the OCD it left me with no headroom to upgrade it. Just can't catch up on the Indy race.
 
I used the 89 special package from the NCD and tuned it out at 340pp for all the races except London where I had to bump it up to 350 to win.

I tried the tune from Motor City but it just wasn't working for me so I came up with this that seemed to work better for me;

New car from NCD, No oil change, No aero, Std wheels

All weight reduction ( do not add chassis reinforcement)
All engine and intake upgrades (no turbo)
All exhaust upgrades
All drivetrain and suspension upgrades

140 Ballast @ Pos 50 to give 47:53 weight distribution
Engine output 79.1%
150bhp, Weight 971kg, 340pp

Suspension:
-10 -10
5.8 6.5
4 4
3 3
3 3
Camber and Toe:
2.0 1.5
-0.15 +0.10
LSD:
9/11/8
Brake Bal:
7/6

Gears:
Hit default, set max speed to 112mph (all the way to the left) then set each gear as follows;
1: 3.309
2: 2.528
3: 1.982
4: 1.601
5: 1.335
F: 2.723 ( should give max speed of 165mph)

The gear setting is for the Indy course only so you will need to dial it back for the other tracks. To win @ Indy you MUST draft the other cars whenever possible even if it's just for a few seconds. You should be up with the leading pack at the end of the 2nd lap and take the lead car going down the back straight on the last lap.

You do NOT need to brake at Indy, a very slight lift off the gas as you enter each turn will allow you to power through at full throttle.

Hope this helps and good luck 👍

Edit:
Tranny setting for remaining tracks:
London Final=4.100 (110mph) Up the engine output to give 350pp
Suzuka Final=3.464 (130mph) Reduce engine output to give 340pp
Trial M Final =3.464 (130mph) leave engine output to give 340pp
Eifel K Final =4.100 (110mph) leave engine output to give 340pp
 
Last edited:
Ah! Bottoms!

Awful Eifel Kart, AGAIN! I detest driving a CAR on that track in all its iterations.
 
I have a tune over at Clueless Tunes (link is in my signature ). Some have used it for some wins 👍

I'll add link when I can (or you can just click my sig :dopey: )
 
Good racing here. Used 2 of my Special Ed. NA's. One turbo, the other n/a. Both with similar hp's, around 183. Sorry, I'm not home to give you more specs of my set-ups and all. Had a fairly easy time with Indy (first try won it after the last turn). Fun racing at Suzuka (again won it in the last lap last turn). Took about 3 tries for Trial Mountain. Had a difficult time with London and Eifel. Finally won them after installing LSD.
 
byegad
Ah! Bottoms!

Awful Eifel Kart, AGAIN! I detest driving a CAR on that track in all its iterations.
Click to expand...

Actually the first turn is really nice. It goes from fast entry to decreasing radious...found it to be one of the most fun turns in a long while.
 
byegad
Ah! Bottoms!

Awful Eifel Kart, AGAIN! I detest driving a CAR on that track in all its iterations.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing they include one of these in a seasonal in order to force you to learn a new track layout. If they stuck to the traditional circuits then I guess people would be complaining about "Same old boring tracks again".

Proof positive of the old adage "You can't please all of the people all of the time"! :)
 
SirAlanClive
As of September 2012 9,190,000 copies of GT5 had been sold. GT5 AE and GT5 XL are not even factored in here. I think we can say 10,000,000. (Polyphony's data)
I'd risk a guess that 90% of the 'good' (read critical) English speaking drivers are in here somewhere. There are 233,654 members here. Let's be overly-generous and suppose 100,000 of them don't like SRF. The English speaking crowd is probably the biggest, but let's be overly-generous again and allow the French, Spanish, Italian, German and Dutch forums to have as many disaffected players as we over-generously supposed here, and the Japanese can have double as they are probably very numerous. That would mean that 800,000 out of 10,000,000 were disappointed, 8%. My figures were way too generous and I think maybe we could say at most 1-2 % of GT5 disc owners are now thinking that PD is 'doing it wrong'. 98% probably like SRF or don't care. One major flaw in my reasoning is that I'm not accounting for active GT5 disc owners. But I can assume that first-time buyers of AE or XL are casual players, as the extremists among us bought the original long ago.
Just some math to brighten up the discussion and bring some perspective 👍.
Click to expand...

Statistically you only need about 1000 people to have a representative sample that can be generalized to a much larger group within a few % points of error. So if your sample size of 233,000 GTP members and you postulate that 100,000 of them don't like SRF that would translate into 4,350,000 people who don't like SRF or 43.5%..using your numbers.
 
Argon56
I used the 89 special package from the NCD and tuned it out at 340pp for all the races except London where I had to bump it up to 350 to win.

I tried the tune from Motor City but it just wasn't working for me so I came up with this that seemed to work better for me;

New car from NCD, No oil change, No aero, Std wheels

All weight reduction ( do not add chassis reinforcement)
All engine and intake upgrades (no turbo)
All exhaust upgrades
All drivetrain and suspension upgrades

140 Ballast @ Pos 50 to give 44:53 weight distribution
Engine output 79.1%
150bhp, Weight 971kg, 340pp

Suspension:
-10 -10
5.8 6.5
4 4
3 3
3 3
Camber and Toe:
2.0 1.5
-0.15 +0.10
LSD:
9/11/8
Brake Bal:
7/6

Gears:
Hit default, set max speed to 112mph (all the way to the left) then set each gear as follows;
1: 3.309
2: 2.528
3: 1.982
4: 1.601
5: 1.335
F: 2.723 ( should give max speed of 165mph)

The gear setting is for the Indy course only so you will need to dial it back for the other tracks. To win @ Indy you MUST draft the other cars whenever possible even if it's just for a few seconds. You should be up with the leading pack at the end of the 2nd lap and take the lead car going down the back straight on the last lap.

You do NOT need to brake at Indy, a very slight lift off the gas as you enter each turn will allow you to power through at full throttle.

Hope this helps and good luck 👍

Edit:
Tranny setting for remaining tracks:
London Final=4.100 (110mph) Up the engine output to give 350pp
Suzuka Final=3.464 (130mph) Reduce engine output to give 340pp
Trial M Final =3.464 (130mph) leave engine output to give 340pp
Eifel K Final =4.100 (110mph) leave engine output to give 340pp
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I was struggling with London, but I managed it with your setup and I'm a total noob - pipped the guy by a few tenths on the last straight.
 
I've been using my 388PP Mx-5 (which I created for the Tsukuba 4 hour endurance) for this seasonal. It's a 1993 car and I have added some ballast and slightly reduced the engine power so it's bang on 380PP. (Now 236bhp and 1000kg) Added the ballast to the rear so the weight distribution is 51:49 which seemed to help by neutralising the handling a bit.

Managed to win at Suzuka by about 8 seconds, and Indy Speedway (2 seconds) and Trial mountain (2 seconds), all with standard gearbox. Changed this to a fully adjustable reduced to 112mph max speed and won at Eiffel kart by a couple of seconds too.

Struggling at London (can't remember ever driving London reverse before!) a couple of seconds behind the leader is my best... going to try the tunes suggested here! Thanks!
 
benoliver999
Thanks for this. I was struggling with London, but I managed it with your setup and I'm a total noob - pipped the guy by a few tenths on the last straight.
Click to expand...

Glad it helped and well done on the win 👍
 
The Outlaw Motorsports Garage tunes
Mazda Eunos Roadster SR-Limited (NA) '97, "Unity"
Created as an easy way to win the 380PP Roadster Seasonal races the car earns its name "Unity" by making the driver feel at one with it.
Source and Parts list:
Buy from: Used Car Dealership
Paintjob: Chaste White (Stock paintjob)
Wheels: BBS LM-R
Aerodynamic Kit: None
Weight Reduction: Stage 2
Window Weight Reduction: Yes
Carbon Hood: No
Chassis reinforcement: No
ECU Tuning: Yes
Engine Tuning: No
Intake Manifold: Sports
Air Filter: Racing
Exhaust Manifold: Sports
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Exhaust: Titanium Racing
Turbo Kit: High RPM Range
Transmission: Fully Customizable
Clutch: Twin-Plate
Flywheel: Semi-Racing
LSD: Adjustable
Center Differential: NA
Drive Shaft: Carbon
Suspension: Fully Customizable Kit
Tires: Comfort Soft

The Tune
Aerodynamics: -
Ballast: 82kg @ +50
Power Limiter: 100%
Transmission - process as follows;
1) Set to default
2) Set Final Gear to 5.500
3) Set Top Speed to 112mph
4) Set gears as follows;
1st=2.350,
2nd=1.775,
3rd=1.400,
4th=1.125,
5th=0.945,
5) Set Final gear to 4.500 (London), 3.600 (Indianapolis) and 3.900 (other tracks)
LSD Rear Initial 15, Acceleration 15, Braking 5
Suspension
Camber Angle Front 2.2, Rear 2.0
Toe Angle Front +0.15, Rear +0.10
Ride Height Front -5, Rear -5
Spring Rate Front 11.2, Rear 7.2
Dampers (Extension) Front 1, Rear 1
Dampers (Compression) Front 3, Rear 3
Anti-Roll Bars Front 4, Rear 5
Brakes Front 6, Rear 7

The car has 380PP, weighs 992Kg with a 50/50 front/rear weight distribution, has 234HP and produces 174ft-lb torque@6,600rpm with a 8,100rpm redline.

Notes: Better drivers can easily win most of these Seasonals with a much lower PP. Removing the High RPM Turbo, Sports Exhaust Manifold and switching to a Sports Exhaust, will bring you to 340PP which will roughly double your payout.

Enjoy the ride and as Ol'Harvey Wallbanger always says...
Drive hard and have fun!:cheers::gtpflag:

Reviews and/or additional photos
 
Last edited:
Cannot crack Indy ! As close as I can get is between 3rd and 5th ! I'll get back to it and see what I can come up as far as tunes go ! Wow !
 
Indy should be fairly easy. Prioritize power, as you need better top speed rather than lower-end acceleration when you run an oval. You can make up a lot of speed in the corners, as the AI is particularly terrible at driving high-speed turns effectively. I won with a mildly-upgraded '07---I ran upgraded PP to ~395 then knocked the top off the HP curve with the power limiter to aim for holding max power through the dwell time on each gear. I rough-adjusted camber and toe (-2.5/-1.5 camber, -0.1/0.1 toe) but didn't try to fine-tune them. I was also able to beat London with the same car, haven't tried the others.

Edit: I think I didn't even touch the transmission for Indy, but I dragged it very short for London. I took max speed to minimum and then shortened the final drive on top of that.
 
Last edited:
testorz
Cannot crack Indy ! As close as I can get is between 3rd and 5th ! I'll get back to it and see what I can come up as far as tunes go ! Wow !
Click to expand...
With the tune I just posted you don't even need to draft at Indy. Any of the '97 or earlier Miatas should perform just as well if brought up to 380PP.👍👍
 
MrWednesday
Indy should be fairly easy. Prioritize power, as you need better top speed rather than lower-end acceleration when you run an oval. You can make up a lot of speed in the corners, as the AI is particularly terrible at driving high-speed turns effectively. I won with a mildly-upgraded '07---I ran upgraded PP to ~395 then knocked the top off the HP curve with the power limiter to aim for holding max power through the dwell time on each gear. I rough-adjusted camber and toe (-2.5/-1.5 camber, -0.1/0.1 toe) but didn't try to fine-tune them. I was also able to beat London with the same car, haven't tried the others.
Click to expand...


Cool ! Thanks ! Will give it a try !
 
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