- 109
- Denmark
- MacBabyDK
If a similar guide already exist, then you can delete this one of course, but I feel the need of this guide, judging on the amount of threads about GTWC.
First of all, this is not a professional race guide, nor an A-Spec-points-hunters race. This is simply a guide made for you guys, who just want to complete the Gran Turismo World Championship, to unlock the Extreme Hall, to win the Ford GT LM Edition, or just to cash a neat sum of 500,000 Cr total in race winnings. This championship will take about a couple of hours to complete, including oil changes and saving, considering that you play in real-time (no status-screen fast forwarding). If you follow this guide thoroughly, I can guarantee 99% that you will win the championship, considering that you’re using B-Spec, and if you’re skilled enough, then A-Spec will also do it.
Good luck!
Use the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car (win it by completing the El Capitan 200 miles endurance race.) Buy the Stage 4 turbo kit, and the rigidity upgrade (rollcage) for 30,000 Cr. The car is now fully tuned, and will have around 1,220 HP/BHP/PS. Buy a set of Racing Hard (R2) and Racing Super Hard (R1) tyres. The Racing Medium (R3) tyres come with the car. Remember, if you have used the car before this championship, make sure that the cars rigidity is still fine (if the rigidity refreshing plan is availible to buy, then buy it again.) Also, make sure to change oil, to get the last horsepowers.
I used the following setup when I did the championship, although it might not be to everybodys liking, this was the setup that I desired:
Spring Rate: 14.8 / 15.8
Ride Height: 85 / 85
Bound: 8 / 8
Rebound: 8 / 8
Camber: 2.0 / 1.0
Toe: 0 / 0
Stabilizers: 6 / 6
Brake Controller: 5 / 2
Downforce: 63 / 88
If you are using A-Spec, it would be a good idea to turn TCS (antispin) to 1 or 2.
NOTE: If you try to enter the GTWC, and it says that you need to complete all races in the Beginner and Professional Hall to enter this championship, then double-check that you actually have complete those. You got to have gold medals in all single races (bronze medals might look alike) and have completed all championships, not just the single races seperately in the champtionships.
Make sure to enter as a championship, DO NOT ENTER each single race, otherwise you will NOT complete the championship, and you will have to do it all over again.
Now, when you enter the championship, try to find a weaker opposition. It means, that cars like the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V (the same as your car), Peugeot 905, Sauber Merecedes, Nissan R89C/R92CP etc. shouldn’t be on the list. Cars like the Chevrolet Camaro, Jaguar XJR-9, Toyota 7 and Toyota GT-ONE are weaker cars, which will make this championship easier. You need to enter and exit the championship, until you find the desired lineup.
Now use the tyres and settings I describe, and use the recommended pace for each race, if you’re using B-Spec. The tyre combinations are made out of numerous attempts to this championship, to maximize durability and performance at the same time.
1. Tokyo (10 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 5. Autoset the transmission to 15, with a little taller 6 th. gear, about 0.200 higher than 5 th. gear, for the long straight. You will need to pit once.
2. Twin Ring Montegi (21 laps): Use R1 rear and R2 front. Use pace 3 as maximum, to avoid accidents against the walls. Make the transmission taller, I recommend Autoset 20, and a 6 th. gear that is a bit taller, about 0.200 higher than 5 th. gear, for the long straights. You won’t need to pit at all.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
3. Hong Kong (18 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 3 to be sure to avoid driving mistakes. Make the transmission a bit lower, I recommend Autoset 15. You will need to pit once.
4. Seoul Central Reverse (19 laps): Keep the same settings as the previous race (Hong Kong) You can use pace 5 in this one, Bob won’t make any driving mistakes, but you might want to switch back to pace 4, if your backtyres become yellowish, to avoid back end wipeouts. You will need to pit once.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
5. El Capitan (11 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. You can use pace 4 all the way, you will pull away right from the start, and stay in front. Make the transmission a bit taller, I recommend Autoset 18. You will need to pit once.
6. New York (15 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 4. Make the transmission a bit lower, I recommend Autoset 15. You will need to pit once.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
7. Opera Paris Reverse (18 laps): Keep the same settings as the previous race (New York). This can be a tough one, but Bob can handle to push hard on pace 5, until you’re up front. You will need to pit once.
8. Suzuka Circuit (9 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 4 as maxiumum to avoid trips to the sandbox, maybe even pace 3 with cold tyres. Make the transmission taller, I recommend Autoset 20. You will need to pit once.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
9. Grand Valley Speedway Reverse (11 laps): Keep the same settings as the previous race (Suzuka). Use pace 4. You will need to pit once.
10. Circuit de la Sarthe L (4 laps): Use R1 rear and R2 front. Make the 6 th. gear a little taller, I recommend about 0,200 higher than the 5 th. gear, for the long straight. Pace 4 is appropriate for this race, once your tyres are warm. You won't need to pit at all.
Congratulations! Save your game before doing anything else!
First of all, this is not a professional race guide, nor an A-Spec-points-hunters race. This is simply a guide made for you guys, who just want to complete the Gran Turismo World Championship, to unlock the Extreme Hall, to win the Ford GT LM Edition, or just to cash a neat sum of 500,000 Cr total in race winnings. This championship will take about a couple of hours to complete, including oil changes and saving, considering that you play in real-time (no status-screen fast forwarding). If you follow this guide thoroughly, I can guarantee 99% that you will win the championship, considering that you’re using B-Spec, and if you’re skilled enough, then A-Spec will also do it.
Good luck!
Use the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car (win it by completing the El Capitan 200 miles endurance race.) Buy the Stage 4 turbo kit, and the rigidity upgrade (rollcage) for 30,000 Cr. The car is now fully tuned, and will have around 1,220 HP/BHP/PS. Buy a set of Racing Hard (R2) and Racing Super Hard (R1) tyres. The Racing Medium (R3) tyres come with the car. Remember, if you have used the car before this championship, make sure that the cars rigidity is still fine (if the rigidity refreshing plan is availible to buy, then buy it again.) Also, make sure to change oil, to get the last horsepowers.
I used the following setup when I did the championship, although it might not be to everybodys liking, this was the setup that I desired:
Spring Rate: 14.8 / 15.8
Ride Height: 85 / 85
Bound: 8 / 8
Rebound: 8 / 8
Camber: 2.0 / 1.0
Toe: 0 / 0
Stabilizers: 6 / 6
Brake Controller: 5 / 2
Downforce: 63 / 88
If you are using A-Spec, it would be a good idea to turn TCS (antispin) to 1 or 2.
NOTE: If you try to enter the GTWC, and it says that you need to complete all races in the Beginner and Professional Hall to enter this championship, then double-check that you actually have complete those. You got to have gold medals in all single races (bronze medals might look alike) and have completed all championships, not just the single races seperately in the champtionships.
Make sure to enter as a championship, DO NOT ENTER each single race, otherwise you will NOT complete the championship, and you will have to do it all over again.
Now, when you enter the championship, try to find a weaker opposition. It means, that cars like the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V (the same as your car), Peugeot 905, Sauber Merecedes, Nissan R89C/R92CP etc. shouldn’t be on the list. Cars like the Chevrolet Camaro, Jaguar XJR-9, Toyota 7 and Toyota GT-ONE are weaker cars, which will make this championship easier. You need to enter and exit the championship, until you find the desired lineup.
Now use the tyres and settings I describe, and use the recommended pace for each race, if you’re using B-Spec. The tyre combinations are made out of numerous attempts to this championship, to maximize durability and performance at the same time.
1. Tokyo (10 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 5. Autoset the transmission to 15, with a little taller 6 th. gear, about 0.200 higher than 5 th. gear, for the long straight. You will need to pit once.
2. Twin Ring Montegi (21 laps): Use R1 rear and R2 front. Use pace 3 as maximum, to avoid accidents against the walls. Make the transmission taller, I recommend Autoset 20, and a 6 th. gear that is a bit taller, about 0.200 higher than 5 th. gear, for the long straights. You won’t need to pit at all.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
3. Hong Kong (18 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 3 to be sure to avoid driving mistakes. Make the transmission a bit lower, I recommend Autoset 15. You will need to pit once.
4. Seoul Central Reverse (19 laps): Keep the same settings as the previous race (Hong Kong) You can use pace 5 in this one, Bob won’t make any driving mistakes, but you might want to switch back to pace 4, if your backtyres become yellowish, to avoid back end wipeouts. You will need to pit once.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
5. El Capitan (11 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. You can use pace 4 all the way, you will pull away right from the start, and stay in front. Make the transmission a bit taller, I recommend Autoset 18. You will need to pit once.
6. New York (15 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 4. Make the transmission a bit lower, I recommend Autoset 15. You will need to pit once.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
7. Opera Paris Reverse (18 laps): Keep the same settings as the previous race (New York). This can be a tough one, but Bob can handle to push hard on pace 5, until you’re up front. You will need to pit once.
8. Suzuka Circuit (9 laps): Use R2 rear and R3 front. Use pace 4 as maxiumum to avoid trips to the sandbox, maybe even pace 3 with cold tyres. Make the transmission taller, I recommend Autoset 20. You will need to pit once.
(Change oil to maintain engine power, and save your game.)
9. Grand Valley Speedway Reverse (11 laps): Keep the same settings as the previous race (Suzuka). Use pace 4. You will need to pit once.
10. Circuit de la Sarthe L (4 laps): Use R1 rear and R2 front. Make the 6 th. gear a little taller, I recommend about 0,200 higher than the 5 th. gear, for the long straight. Pace 4 is appropriate for this race, once your tyres are warm. You won't need to pit at all.
Congratulations! Save your game before doing anything else!
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I can certainly say it takes much more than 'a couple hours'. It's taken me all week to carefully get thru each event...tuning carefully, learning each track and stuff.
I qualified on Pole, but I highly doubt I'll be able to stay up there! Stay tuned....
