i haven't done any tuning to this car yet, but it seems like the ass on it is really heavy or something, it breaks free easily and spins me out more than any other car i've used. anyone else notice this? (i decided to post this after seeing the elise thread. it feels different than the way the elise breaks free. the elise feels like it looses traction becasue its too lite, this one feels like its heavy and swings around.)
yellow bird
- Thread starter pr0gress
- 63 comments
- 24,513 views
- 121
- Solano county, CA
- roadbeef
The important thing to remember about the CTR is that, even though it is a hugely fast car with tons of grip, it is still an old 911. Therefore it will handle like an old 911.
The key to 911's with swingarm rear axles is to always, always brake in a straight line when you're learning the car. Never try to scrub speed with the brakes while moving at an angle in this car (or the BTR, same goes for it too).
The idea with the older 911 is to get all your braking done early, then turn in when the suspension is settled back to neutral. The rear engine's mass will allow for the nose of the car to be pointed quite easily (as long as you're gentle!).
If you're still having trouble with stock suspension settings and how they make the car behave, try softening the rear sway bar substantially, to the point that you're understeering when applying moderate throttle on a corner exit. From there, tweak with slight spring rate changes until you've got your ideal corner entry oversteer balance.
Sorry if it sounds complicated, but I hope I've helped.
The key to 911's with swingarm rear axles is to always, always brake in a straight line when you're learning the car. Never try to scrub speed with the brakes while moving at an angle in this car (or the BTR, same goes for it too).
The idea with the older 911 is to get all your braking done early, then turn in when the suspension is settled back to neutral. The rear engine's mass will allow for the nose of the car to be pointed quite easily (as long as you're gentle!).
If you're still having trouble with stock suspension settings and how they make the car behave, try softening the rear sway bar substantially, to the point that you're understeering when applying moderate throttle on a corner exit. From there, tweak with slight spring rate changes until you've got your ideal corner entry oversteer balance.
Sorry if it sounds complicated, but I hope I've helped.
The yellowbird is my most used car. I usualy use it stock but I added a stage 2 turbo and intercooler to win the supercars series. The only settings that I use to control oversteer vs. stability is camber. For nice oversteer I put 2.0 degrees at the front, 0 at the back. For rougher tracks where stability is an issue, ad more camber to the rear (up to 1.5 worked for me).
You have to change your driving style with RR cars. Brake early, then lift off and turn at the same time. This will cause the rear end to come around a bit and will line you up for corner exit. This is where RR really shines. You have so much traction under acceleration that you can dust the opposition out of every corner.
You have to change your driving style with RR cars. Brake early, then lift off and turn at the same time. This will cause the rear end to come around a bit and will line you up for corner exit. This is where RR really shines. You have so much traction under acceleration that you can dust the opposition out of every corner.
- 85
BOXER1
Very, very, very true. So many people want to 'tune' something out of, or into a car. "It pushes too much turning in." or "I can't get 'it' to corner right" blah blah blah.
Like beef said, this is an old 911 and its going to behave like one.
Look at some of these cars, older ones in particular, like horses. Some you can break and saddle up, eventually 'tune/train' and ride.
Others however ain't never gonna be broken and if you wanna ride 'em? YOU are going to have to adapt.
*Please forgive the horse analogy, I have no idea what it takes to break/tame/ride a horse, but I thought it sounded good in my head.
idle
- 451
- Jonerz99
im impressed wit GT4,
in real life on the 911 and into 964 turbos that was a problem, i guess that follows through onto ruf cars?! anywho im having the same problem with the car, 💡 consider putting some balace upfront. not sure if that'll help or hamper but, trial and error seems pretty evident wit all Rufs.
👍 Jonerz 👍
in real life on the 911 and into 964 turbos that was a problem, i guess that follows through onto ruf cars?! anywho im having the same problem with the car, 💡 consider putting some balace upfront. not sure if that'll help or hamper but, trial and error seems pretty evident wit all Rufs.
👍 Jonerz 👍
50/50=orgasm
(Banned)
- 20
check out my BTR settings in "untamable RUF" thread, i added 168kg to the front and that seemed to stabalize the car substantially. i then switched back to stock to test my settings and realized that my settings didnt kill any good oversteer or cause massive amounts of understeer, it just settled the car.
- 2,837
- GTP_Div
What people don't seem to understand is that Ballast weight is not changing the distribution of the weight of the car ITSELF, it's ADDING weight to different parts of the car, which inevitably slows you down.
Ballast is normally added to the lowest parts of the car so the center of gravity is lowered, plus it evens out the weight distribution. Both these changes make a car much easier to handle, thus decreasing the lap times for people not used to RR cars (you will be amazed at the amount of time you can save when you don't pull a 360 at every corner).
Plus adding a lot of ballast to the front of the Yellow Bird and then slowly decreasing it as you get used to the car can help the less naturally gifted drivers (such as myself) learn how to drive RR cars well.
Plus adding a lot of ballast to the front of the Yellow Bird and then slowly decreasing it as you get used to the car can help the less naturally gifted drivers (such as myself) learn how to drive RR cars well.
Sometimes its better to let the ass swing out a little 
just figure out how to compensate for losing your back end going through turns, and ride it out. Some cars werent meant to be perfect for driving. Adjust to the car, dont try to adjust the car to yourself becuase the car isnt always going to be made just for your driving prefrences.
just figure out how to compensate for losing your back end going through turns, and ride it out. Some cars werent meant to be perfect for driving. Adjust to the car, dont try to adjust the car to yourself becuase the car isnt always going to be made just for your driving prefrences.with sport tires its relatively easy to hold the back end out (after some practice) and drift around tracks, but when you slap on n1 tires the back end is extremely hard to control, hence the stabilizing weight. those who have driven the older cars in the game (triumph, bmw 2002 etc.) the back end on those cars fly out pretty easily. i havent tried adding ballast to those cars as i found settings to stabilize those. but i dont think that using the settings from those cars would work on the RUFs because the weight of the back just keeps coming around, whereas the bimmer has much better weight distribution. something to look into though.
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
When I first bought this car I had problems with it. I bought the fully adjustable LSD and it made biggest difference. Of course you will need the best brakes and controller too. I was able to beat the Supercar Festival and Boxter Spirit races in Professional with this car believe it or not. I also used it for a couple other events in Professional. It wasnt easy but I did it.
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
Yes I will post my exact specs when I get home tonight.
- 1,019
- Canada
- n00bxqb
If you don't know how to drive an RR vehicle, you shouldn't buy one unless you're willing to learn ...
Adding ballist to the front may even the weight distribution and balance the car a little more, but then you're taking away some of the primary reasons why you should use the car in the first place ... Those reasons being high power-to-weight ratio and overly nimble handling thanks to the rear-biased weight distribution ...
IMO, you should always buy a car that suits your driving style ...
Adding ballist to the front may even the weight distribution and balance the car a little more, but then you're taking away some of the primary reasons why you should use the car in the first place ... Those reasons being high power-to-weight ratio and overly nimble handling thanks to the rear-biased weight distribution ...
IMO, you should always buy a car that suits your driving style ...
- 71
This thread was a huge help!! Thanks!
yah, ive been thinking about that and i took all the ballast off of my yellow bird. it seems to be just as fast as with the ballast, just a lot harder to control (due to n1 tires), but its a blast to have the back end out there in the corners around the nurburgring (when i can actually do it right). i just wish the brakes were better.
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
There really doesnt seem to be much hope for the brakes on that car. Ive messed with those quite a bit and I believe my best results were to set the controller 14 front 12 rear. And try to not use the brakes at all in a turn.
It doesnt matter what car you are driving or how you tune it, if you go into a turn too hot you will understeer. make sure that you are braking early, turning in, and letting the tail wag(or drift) through the rest of the turn.modulate the gas to have a solid drift through or out of any turn.
After took that ballast off my yellow bird, i just ran an 8:22 around the nurburgring on n1 tires, and it was a blast. no contact with walls at all.
After took that ballast off my yellow bird, i just ran an 8:22 around the nurburgring on n1 tires, and it was a blast. no contact with walls at all.
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
Here are my setting for the Yellow Bird. These might not work for everyone but they should be a great help to some of you. Just remember the brakes are not that good no matter what.
Buy all 3 stages of lightweight
-weight 1081kg
-637hp and nitros (set nitros low or you will fry tires quicker 30-40 range)
-Turbo stage 3
-Racing intercooler
Brake controller setting
-16 front------14rear
-Tripple clutch
-racing flywheel
-Suspension settings
-----------front--------------rear--------
Spring rate 11.7----spring rate 11.9
ride height 85-------ride height 85
shock bound 8---------------------8
rebound----- 8---------------------8
camber angle 2--------camber angle 1
toe--------------0-------------------0
stabalizers-----7------------------7
Full customize Transmission
Final 4.00
Auto 13
Full customize Limitied-slip
Initial torque 19
accelerator 40
Decelerator 20
driving aids 10,10,5 these could be adjusted down a little. mabey 9,9,4
Buy all 3 stages of lightweight
-weight 1081kg
-637hp and nitros (set nitros low or you will fry tires quicker 30-40 range)
-Turbo stage 3
-Racing intercooler
Brake controller setting
-16 front------14rear
-Tripple clutch
-racing flywheel
-Suspension settings
-----------front--------------rear--------
Spring rate 11.7----spring rate 11.9
ride height 85-------ride height 85
shock bound 8---------------------8
rebound----- 8---------------------8
camber angle 2--------camber angle 1
toe--------------0-------------------0
stabalizers-----7------------------7
Full customize Transmission
Final 4.00
Auto 13
Full customize Limitied-slip
Initial torque 19
accelerator 40
Decelerator 20
driving aids 10,10,5 these could be adjusted down a little. mabey 9,9,4
- 172
Those settings are a good start. I'm not too good at tuning so I'm not sure how to really improve on them. I did change a few things to make it a bit more to my liking.
arent those the stock settings for racing suspension? here is my setup:
racing brakes (12 f+r)
no driving aids
no LSD
race flywheel
triple clutch
stage 3 weight reduction
chassis stiffening
racing suspension: (all are equal front and back)
9.1 springs
79 ride height
5 bound
6 rebound
3.4 camber
0 toe
7 stabilizer
if you dont brake early with this car, youre screwed. i ran an 8:22 around the nurburgring on n1 tires with it yesterday, it was a blast and i didnt spin or hit a wall once.
racing brakes (12 f+r)
no driving aids
no LSD
race flywheel
triple clutch
stage 3 weight reduction
chassis stiffening
racing suspension: (all are equal front and back)
9.1 springs
79 ride height
5 bound
6 rebound
3.4 camber
0 toe
7 stabilizer
if you dont brake early with this car, youre screwed. i ran an 8:22 around the nurburgring on n1 tires with it yesterday, it was a blast and i didnt spin or hit a wall once.
