◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Currently Recruiting for GT7 - JOIN TODAY!!Open
- Thread starter zer05ive
- 150,044 comments
- 8,693,503 views
DesertPenguin09
(Banned)
- 7,398
- Long Island, New York
- DesertPenguin09
They hit those kerbs hard
- 525
- Michigan
- dcschwinn
You would @TomMang_68.. That is a great pic of some cones used for track markers!. 👍 What do you have in mind for those cones MANG??
Anything in particular?? 
- 1,105
- Michigan
- vsfit
TomMang and his bag of tricks. Who fell for it this time? You're getting better at arranging them.
- 1,105
- Michigan
- vsfit
May 29th. - 31st. detroitgp.com
If you're planning to attend, let us know. We have several local SNAILS that will be here. @DCschwinn, @jnmjeeper are hopefully planning to attend.
A few pics from last year.
Last edited:
- 323
- Surrey UK
- Engmatic1
K1utch I found your input very very interesting and informative, just what I like to read lol, and I am not trying to resurrect a dead debate. With that point made I want to direct our attention to K1utch's point of gear shifting.
This is something I have been trying to read on especially understanding the information shown in the data screen. ie @K1utch , to quote your point from earlier ,'' Pull more performance from the car at the desired shift point.(refer to performance page and proper shift point readings in car settings)''
At the risk of coming across as an idiot amongst people who amaze me with their consistent speeds , could you ''break this down'' for me when you get the time. All snails welcomed to contribute but please tag me @Engmatic1 in it so I can follow the chain of thought easier. I know it is not alchemy but if you want to share the knowledge and help this old block of ice flow like water then please do
but every where in life there are a few who through hard work and dedication or sometimes by luck or talent guard, their knowledge like the alchemists of old. But such is life , some do things for the rest to wonder how the f-'orange mango- ing did he do that My question is how exactly do you read the data. i have a vague idea, my problem is i cant pin point the optimum revs to shift after looking at the data. i see the curves rise and the ndrop. i understand the graph but i get muddled up by the rev markings at the bottom. Is there a set number in each block of rev marking or does it change the higher the rev limit of that engine?. i trully hope i made sense lol
- 539
- United States
- pubason
You made my day Thank You Tom , I thought about DC going straight into the wall .That was the best prank ever and DC fell for it hook line and sinker . I am still laughing about it posting this .I am just so thankful I was there to see it . DC I know you are a good sport and have taken it well , but I still laugh about it , and yes Tom good cone alignment there bud . Great job keep up the good work , people like you ,DC , vsfit and the crew of usual suspects keep the fun in the game .👍
- 1,820
- Ireland
- turnupdaheat
@Engmatic1 The topic of gear shift points comes up quite regularly in practice rooms. Every now and again a car comes along which causes a lot of confusion and it’s only through information shared by other members that word spreads about the optimum revs at which to change gear. With this in mind, this is the simple process which I use to help me identify the best point to shift for every car I drive. Please bear in mind this will only focus on finding when and for how long any particular engine is producing its peak power. There are other variables, particularly gear ratios, which come into play and the only way to work it out fully is by doing a little homework on the engine’s characteristics, going out on track armed with that information and testing.
It seems that a large number of our brethern buy a car, change the oil, join the track and simply change gear once the redline is reached. However, revving to the redline is not always the best point to extract the maximum performance out of an engine and to illustrate this we’re going to look at the extreme example that is one of the cars we all may be currently driving, the Alpine VGT. Even though it's normally aspirated, this car has a similar power band to the turbocharged Nissan R390 we raced a while back which was a car that caused a lot of consternation when people who were revving it to the redline found themselves being passed almost like they were standing still. When we have a look at the information available to us it becomes very clear why this is the case.
Once you buy any car and change the oil etc., the first place to go is not the track but back to your garage from where you can see the vital information we need to keep the engine “on the boil”.
In the garage we are shown the max power and torque figures and at what rpm these are reached. The Alpine produces its max power of 443 bhp (before oil change) at 5500 rpm. So now that we have identified at what point in the rev range this car is producing its peak power the next step is to go to the Settings page where you can have a look at the car’s Dyno readings to look at its powerband. In this case the power drops off dramatically after it reaches its peak output as is clearly visible in this graph.
The Alpine VGT redlines around 8000 rpm but from this graph we have easily gathered that the engine simply loses more and more power the higher you rev it so if you rev it to the redline someone who has changed up a gear at 5500/6000 rpm is waving goodbye as they power away from you.
On the other hand, you have cars like the Spoon S200 Race Car which redlines at 8500 rpm yet it doesn’t reach its max power until way up the range @ 11000 rpm. That was a car I didn’t initially do my homework on and was I was confused as to why I was 3 seconds off my expected pace when I was changing at the redline as I initially thought I should. Once I had a look at the car in my garage I could see where I was going wrong, revved it way higher and found the missing three seconds.
So to recap: Buy your car and change the oil. Go to your garage and identify at what rpm the engine is producing its max power. Then, go to the Settings page and look at the graph to see how quickly the power drops off and you will be able to make a call as to how long you can hold on to a gear before changing up.
Hope this helps.
It seems that a large number of our brethern buy a car, change the oil, join the track and simply change gear once the redline is reached. However, revving to the redline is not always the best point to extract the maximum performance out of an engine and to illustrate this we’re going to look at the extreme example that is one of the cars we all may be currently driving, the Alpine VGT. Even though it's normally aspirated, this car has a similar power band to the turbocharged Nissan R390 we raced a while back which was a car that caused a lot of consternation when people who were revving it to the redline found themselves being passed almost like they were standing still. When we have a look at the information available to us it becomes very clear why this is the case.
Once you buy any car and change the oil etc., the first place to go is not the track but back to your garage from where you can see the vital information we need to keep the engine “on the boil”.
In the garage we are shown the max power and torque figures and at what rpm these are reached. The Alpine produces its max power of 443 bhp (before oil change) at 5500 rpm. So now that we have identified at what point in the rev range this car is producing its peak power the next step is to go to the Settings page where you can have a look at the car’s Dyno readings to look at its powerband. In this case the power drops off dramatically after it reaches its peak output as is clearly visible in this graph.
The Alpine VGT redlines around 8000 rpm but from this graph we have easily gathered that the engine simply loses more and more power the higher you rev it so if you rev it to the redline someone who has changed up a gear at 5500/6000 rpm is waving goodbye as they power away from you.
On the other hand, you have cars like the Spoon S200 Race Car which redlines at 8500 rpm yet it doesn’t reach its max power until way up the range @ 11000 rpm. That was a car I didn’t initially do my homework on and was I was confused as to why I was 3 seconds off my expected pace when I was changing at the redline as I initially thought I should. Once I had a look at the car in my garage I could see where I was going wrong, revved it way higher and found the missing three seconds.
So to recap: Buy your car and change the oil. Go to your garage and identify at what rpm the engine is producing its max power. Then, go to the Settings page and look at the graph to see how quickly the power drops off and you will be able to make a call as to how long you can hold on to a gear before changing up.
Hope this helps.
- 323
- Surrey UK
- Engmatic1
@Engmatic1 The topic of gear shift points comes up quite regularly in practice rooms. Every now and again a car comes along which causes a lot of confusion and it’s only through information shared by other members that word spreads about the optimum revs at which to change gear. With this in mind, this is the simple process which I use to help me identify the best point to shift for every car I drive. Please bear in mind this will only focus on finding when and for how long any particular engine is producing its peak power. There are other variables, particularly gear ratios, which come into play and the only way to work it out fully is by doing a little homework on the engine’s characteristics, going out on track armed with that information and testing.
It seems that a large number of our brethern buy a car, change the oil, join the track and simply change gear once the redline is reached. However, revving to the redline is not always the best point to extract the maximum performance out of an engine and to illustrate this we’re going to look at the extreme example that is one of the cars we all may be currently driving, the Alpine VGT. Even though it's normally aspirated, this car has a similar power band to the turbocharged Nissan R390 we raced a while back which was a car that caused a lot of consternation when people who were revving it to the redline found themselves being passed almost like they were standing still. When we have a look at the information available to us it becomes very clear why this is the case.
Once you buy any car and change the oil etc., the first place to go is not the track but back to your garage from where you can see the vital information we need to keep the engine “on the boil”.
In the garage we are shown the max power and torque figures and at what rpm these are reached. The Alpine produces its max power of 443 bhp (before oil change) at 5500 rpm. So now that we have identified at what point in the rev range this car is producing its peak power the next step is to go to the Settings page where you can have a look at the car’s Dyno readings to look at its powerband. In this case the power drops off dramatically after it reaches its peak output as is clearly visible in this graph.
The Alpine VGT redlines around 8000 rpm but from this graph we have easily gathered that the engine simply loses more and more power the higher you rev it so if you rev it to the redline someone who has changed up a gear at 5500/6000 rpm is waving goodbye as they power away from you.
On the other hand, you have cars like the Spoon S200 Race Car which redlines at 8500 rpm yet it doesn’t reach its max power until way up the range @ 11000 rpm. That was a car I didn’t initially do my homework on and was I was confused as to why I was 3 seconds off my expected pace when I was changing at the redline as I initially thought I should. Once I had a look at the car in my garage I could see where I was going wrong, revved it way higher and found the missing three seconds.
So to recap: Buy your car and change the oil. Go to your garage and identify at what rpm the engine is producing its max power. Then, go to the Settings page and look at the graph to see how quickly the power drops off and you will be able to make a call as to how long you can hold on to a gear before changing up.
Hope this helps.
Thanks. Now I am certain i had only pieces of the jigsaw. starting to make sense and will make more sense once i hit the track tonight .
It isn't a big enough problem not to pick the combo, but imo it would be improved even more on ss tires.
I agree with you to an extent, I was able to run the same lap times on both tires, it's just a bit easier and more predictable on the ss tires. The rh tires will just pose more of a challenge and require more patience.
I did test the combo, and I tested it on rh tires are per the rules, I didn't test on the ss tires till maverick pointed out to me that it handled my better with those tires. After doing a few laps, I completely agreed with him, but that occurred after I had selected the combo as it was, in my opinion, the best out of the 3 combo choices I had to pick from.
- 5,911
- Texas
- zer05ive
Thanks! I've updated the lineup post and have also added a link to our 2015 calendar to the top. Figured it was a pretty good place to put that. 👍
- 294
- ohio
- GTP_K1utch
Turnupdaheat is a great friend of mine. He explained the understanding of shifting In a way I never could. I appreciate him very much as all the other snails. I missed you guys. Always looking out for each other it's the reason I love snail so much lol. But yes nonetheless Heats explanation on shifting is about as detailed as it gets I'm more of an instinct and feel type of driver so it's a bit more difficult for me to explain but with an explanation like that you can't go wrong. Thank you HEAT!!!!
- 3,575
- Vancouver, BC
- Falango
I ran laps last night with it, and yes, you have to pull your braking marker back a long ways, but once you find them, I actually enjoyed the challenge it gave me. It's a very delicate car on RH tires, and I'm not even going to bother trying it on SS, because we're not racing it on them, so what's the point? I've driven worse combos, this isn't as bad as I thought based on the comments about it. Just be delicate and careful with your steering inputs, make sure the car is straight as an arrow when you brake, and use your downshifts well to keep it straight during braking.
- 241
- United States
- AMAMachinist
This is great info! Thanks! Couple more questions tho...@Engmatic1 The topic of gear shift points comes up quite regularly in practice rooms. Every now and again a car comes along which causes a lot of confusion and it’s only through information shared by other members that word spreads about the optimum revs at which to change gear. With this in mind, this is the simple process which I use to help me identify the best point to shift for every car I drive. Please bear in mind this will only focus on finding when and for how long any particular engine is producing its peak power. There are other variables, particularly gear ratios, which come into play and the only way to work it out fully is by doing a little homework on the engine’s characteristics, going out on track armed with that information and testing.
It seems that a large number of our brethern buy a car, change the oil, join the track and simply change gear once the redline is reached. However, revving to the redline is not always the best point to extract the maximum performance out of an engine and to illustrate this we’re going to look at the extreme example that is one of the cars we all may be currently driving, the Alpine VGT. Even though it's normally aspirated, this car has a similar power band to the turbocharged Nissan R390 we raced a while back which was a car that caused a lot of consternation when people who were revving it to the redline found themselves being passed almost like they were standing still. When we have a look at the information available to us it becomes very clear why this is the case.
Once you buy any car and change the oil etc., the first place to go is not the track but back to your garage from where you can see the vital information we need to keep the engine “on the boil”.
In the garage we are shown the max power and torque figures and at what rpm these are reached. The Alpine produces its max power of 443 bhp (before oil change) at 5500 rpm. So now that we have identified at what point in the rev range this car is producing its peak power the next step is to go to the Settings page where you can have a look at the car’s Dyno readings to look at its powerband. In this case the power drops off dramatically after it reaches its peak output as is clearly visible in this graph.
The Alpine VGT redlines around 8000 rpm but from this graph we have easily gathered that the engine simply loses more and more power the higher you rev it so if you rev it to the redline someone who has changed up a gear at 5500/6000 rpm is waving goodbye as they power away from you.
On the other hand, you have cars like the Spoon S200 Race Car which redlines at 8500 rpm yet it doesn’t reach its max power until way up the range @ 11000 rpm. That was a car I didn’t initially do my homework on and was I was confused as to why I was 3 seconds off my expected pace when I was changing at the redline as I initially thought I should. Once I had a look at the car in my garage I could see where I was going wrong, revved it way higher and found the missing three seconds.
So to recap: Buy your car and change the oil. Go to your garage and identify at what rpm the engine is producing its max power. Then, go to the Settings page and look at the graph to see how quickly the power drops off and you will be able to make a call as to how long you can hold on to a gear before changing up.
Hope this helps.
Q1: How is the HP/Torque graph segmented. I uderstand 0-8000 RPM but is each line 1000? It seems like the first line starts further over to the right. I dont know what it is about the layout but I just don't see "5500" when I look at that graph.
Q2: How does this relate to the transmissions gearing? Is there a case where because of the overlap between gears that you would have to adjust your shift point? For example: If I look at the graph and see peak HP is at 6500 but when I shift there I drop down to 4000 and say there is'nt power there. Maybe holding til 7000 would actually be better. Can you tell this just by the graphs or is it more trial/error?
- 820
- Thunder Bay
- singlepaddy
- 323
- Surrey UK
- Engmatic1
I was thinking the same thing from halfway across the world. can't wait for the clarification later. By the way I am hoping Sinna (@STEAMER62), @pubason , @TomMang_68 and my usual mid week jammers will join me later tonight . See banner below for details .
'ORANGE MANGO' vroom vroom
- 1,485
- Ribeirão Preto, SP
- flip_jj
I was thinking the same thing from halfway across the world. can't wait for the clarification later. By the way I am hoping Sinna (@STEAMER62), @pubason , @TomMang_68 and my usual mid week jammers will join me later tonight . See banner below for details .
'ORANGE MANGO' vroom vroom
View attachment 333433
I'm in tonight!
- 1,820
- Ireland
- turnupdaheat
The graph segmentation is poor but remember it is from the garage page that you find at what rpm the car's peak power is hit. So, looking at the graph below found in the Settings page, you can see the power peak is midway between two lines which we have to presume in this case indicate 5000rpm and the 6000rpm marks.
As for question 2, this is where the bit of trial and error come into it. Being a spec league we obviously race with the stock gearing. Sometimes the cars we drive have very long gearing so it can be the case you mention that if you change too early the power and torque aren't there to carry you forward as strongly as it might if you rev further beyond the peak power mark. Generally, it's rare that you will change up at the exact mark that peak power is hit. So in the example you use, the best compromise might be to rev to 7500 or beyond if the power doesn't fall off too quickly. That's where the testing helps.
- 1,694
- ontario
- USERID_77a23
- 2,854
- Central NJ
- nmcp1
@Edwin42
Here's your official SNAIL Welcome Post!
Thanks for your interest!
Here's what you need to know (and do) in order to join:
We run a clean league by enforcing a strict penalty system based on the SNAIL OLR (which is a modified version of the GTP OLR). We also expect all of our drivers to know and follow The Good Racecraft Guide. Please become versed in both if you aren't already. Once that is complete, please follow the steps below to complete your entry into the league:
1. You start a conversation and add @CoachMK21, @Dragonwhisky, @JLBowler, @nmcp1 & @zer05ive as participants. The conversation title should be "Request To Join".
2. SNAIL Administrators will respond with specific instructions on what you need to accomplish to join the SNAIL [Spec] Racing club. Sunday races are organized exclusively through the GT6 Community features within the game.
3. Place the following links (URLs) in the favorites (or bookmarks) in your web browser for quick reference. Please make every effort to read and understand the following links. Over the years a great deal of time and effort has gone into creating this league and we would like nothing more than to have you but we ask that you take the time and effort to do your homework. 99.9% of any question you may have about SNAIL can be found in the posts below.
4. You drive fast and clean on Sunday 👍
Again, the original post has everything you need to know about what to expect on Sunday night and what you will need to have completed in order to be competitive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question on the thread. If you have a preference for car/wheel colour and racing number, please follow the instruction contained here.
During the week we run a number of different events, we encourage all SNAILs to join as many as possible.
Welcome to SNAIL
- 832
- Vienna
- sinna123
Well said [USER=256603]@GTP_Nobby , great video @CoachMK21 , and thx for sharing this with the SNAIL-community, I also like the full throttle power after the corner exits
, only miss a little bit, but only a little the aweful sound...wondering which tires did you drive?[/USER]
- 5,366
- Bel Air, MD
- NOVA-0479
I noticed the references to the RUF combo being chosen on the wrong tires. That was my choosing. I liked it on the sport softs during testing, and even after the tire correction to sport medium I liked it better. It made the racing more on the edge. Either way, the RUF was going to be my choice. The point is, some combos fit particular people and/or styles of racing. I particularly like cars/combos that require you to not only race each other, but require a stronger concentration to keep it under control near the limits. I remember 2 amazing races at Tokyo with the RUF against Nobby. Some of the most intense racing and battling I've experienced in GT6. Not all cars have predictable limits, and that is also a factor in racing imo.
- 832
- Vienna
- sinna123
@DCschwinn , your new avatar is EPIC lolYou would @TomMang_68.. That is a great pic of some cones used for track markers!. 👍 What do you have in mind for those cones MANG??
- 2,003
- New York
- OMG_mang
No. It was more of an attempt of interjecting some levity to the combo conversation last night. Like "let's not go down that road any further" . In retrospect I can see it acted like the "bat signal" lol. See there are many fun uses for traffic conesYou would @TomMang_68.. That is a great pic of some cones used for track markers!. 👍 What do you have in mind for those cones MANG??
- 241
- United States
- AMAMachinist
- 2,857
- Brockport
- CoachMK21
Well said [USER=256603]@GTP_Nobby , great video @CoachMK21 , and thx for sharing this with the SNAIL-community, I also like the full throttle power after the corner exits
Thanks for the feedback! I use Hankook Ventus RS-3's. They are "extreme performance summer" tires; 200 threadwear. I have 245/40R18 on the front and 265/40R18 on the back. They are great tires and I felt they provided really good grip in a wide variety of conditions (rainy, cold and hot surfaces).
