2.09 Tuning Tests by Motor City Tunes and the community

[GTP_CargoRatt]

FR muscle, correct?

@Hami: Yes, its a 2010 Camaro SS Race Mod.

@Johnny: Yes, it improved the feel and also improved my lap times by .400-.450 consistantly. Still have to do more testing and adjustments tomorrow before I'm completely happy with the tune. I'll post it in the WRS TT thread when its finished. Its a bit on the loose side, but thats my style.

 

[Adrenaline]

Its a bit on the loose side, but thats my style.

Floozy!

 

[Johnnypenso]

@Hami: Yes, its a 2010 Camaro SS Race Mod.

@Johnny: Yes, it improved the feel and also improved my lap times by .400-.450 consistantly. Still have to do more testing and adjustments tomorrow before I'm completely happy with the tune. I'll post it in the WRS TT thread when its finished. Its a bit on the loose side, but thats my style.

I'll give it a spin...haven't gotten around to that TT yet..

 

[CSLACR]

True. Even so, lowering the car produced more grip on that end of the car. It was noticeable. Need to post the videos.



Stupid? No. Bad tuner? No. A little hot under the collar sometimes? Probably.

I don't think he was taking a shot directly at you. With the history of the GTP tuning community not being able to agree on many things even when there is stong supporting evidence... well... I think that was what CSLACR was getting at.

OMG... did I just come to CSLACR's defense? That must be another hidden 2.09 programming change from PD. They actually tricked CSLACR and I into working together.

Crafty programmers...



Nail/head/hammer

I am curious to see what low/low does vs low/high on FR, since I've seen how much rear traction can be lost by lowering the rear. (corner exit traction)

 

[Adrenaline]

So, I just spent an hour running laps.
Finally bought the Weider Super GT car.
0 miles, 0 upgrades, default everything.
Grip Real, Dmg Off, Visible Off, Tire/Fuel Wear Off, Draft Low.
I used a custom Martinsville track, 16 second laps a piece and ran between 20-25 per test.
Kept it simple, it's a 2 turn, smooth oval, that would provide an easy to see/feel/compare under/oversteer on a car both in and out of corners.

I tested all of the following, ride heights changing absolutely nothing else:
0/0
10/10
-10/-10
0/5
5/0
5/-10
-10/5

Not a single one of these, resulted in lap times that altered more than .1 lap times.
Some felt slightly different, but not enough to definitely say that <this> rake = this result.

So... /shrug

 

[CSLACR]

No low front high rear.
-10/10?

 

[GUMP07]

So, I just spent an hour running laps.
Finally bought the Weider Super GT car.
0 miles, 0 upgrades, default everything.
Grip Real, Dmg Off, Visible Off, Tire/Fuel Wear Off, Draft Low.
I used a custom Martinsville track, 16 second laps a piece and ran between 20-25 per test.
Kept it simple, it's a 2 turn, smooth oval, that would provide an easy to see/feel/compare under/oversteer on a car both in and out of corners.

I tested all of the following, ride heights changing absolutely nothing else:
0/0
10/10
-10/-10
0/5
5/0
5/-10
10/-5

Not a single one of these, resulted in lap times that altered more than .1 lap times.
Some felt slightly different, but not enough to definitely say that <this> rake = this result.

So... /shrug

Try it on High Speed Ring.
Maybe the S-Turn will add some information without the complexity of an intense road course?

 

[Adrenaline]

No low front high rear.
-10/10?

Fixed; had my -/+ backwards.

 

[CyKosis1973]

I am curious to see what low/low does vs low/high on FR, since I've seen how much rear traction can be lost by lowering the rear. (corner exit traction)

Depending on the rest of your suspension and wheel alignment, from what I've seen so far, MIN/MIN will cause squirrels at the rear. Sticking her arse in the air and her face in the pillow will improve corner exit.

I've found that adjusting ride height still has an effect on the car, just not as evident as it once was. So far, all FWD cars have higher front that rear and all RWD cars have lower front than rear ... but that could just be me.

Depsite what has been said about this update, I don't think for a minute that it has taken anything away from the game, if anything it has made it more accessible to people like me. Hell, I was out hooning around in a 550PP 'Vette on SH tyres the other night and I beat the 500PP NSX Time Trial on CS tyres, unheard for me to drive such cars on those tyres. So whilst I appreciate that some people may feel the game has been dumbed down and there's no longer a challenge in tuning, I'm loving every single minute of it...

{Cy}

 

[CSLACR]

Fixed; had my -/+ backwards.

Ah ok.

Depending on the rest of your suspension and wheel alignment, from what I've seen so far, MIN/MIN will cause squirrels at the rear. Sticking her arse in the air and her face in the pillow will improve corner exit.

I've found that adjusting ride height still has an effect on the car, just not as evident as it once was. So far, all FWD cars have higher front that rear and all RWD cars have lower front than rear ... but that could just be me.

Depsite what has been said about this update, I don't think for a minute that it has taken anything away from the game, if anything it has made it more accessible to people like me. Hell, I was out hooning around in a 550PP 'Vette on SH tyres the other night and I beat the 500PP NSX Time Trial on CS tyres, unheard for me to drive such cars on those tyres. So whilst I appreciate that some people may feel the game has been dumbed down and there's no longer a challenge in tuning, I'm loving every single minute of it...

{Cy}

I don't think it's so much that they "dumbed it down" as it's annoying for people to re-learn how suspension works 2 years into playing a game.

TBH if I were PD and wanted to cut down on the remaining players, I'd continue making huge changes that destroy people's work from the past 2 years since release.

I would be glad they made these changes if they did it, you know, before I made a garage with 100 tunes that are essentially vaporized now.
And I'd prefer a proper fix over this silencer patch BS any day of the week.


That said, it's awesome you're driving supercars on stock tires like that, I find it the most fun to be had in GT5 👍

For those that haven't tried, that have a large sound system: Grab a McLaren MP4-12C, take it to a huge straight, (test course is perfect) cruise in 6th to 65mph (barely maintain speed).... Turn the system extremely loud, floor it and listen.
New sounds + MP4-12C long gear to top speed = best sound I've heard in GT5 ever.

 

[Adrenaline]

2.09 has also greatly altered Trial Mountain, or at least what the car does in reaction to the track. Those of us who push the limits through sector one, as well as the very last chicane, will now see that I end up in an airborne barrel roll, floating type motion, as well as a far more harsh landing, that causes the car to, visually, bottom out, bounce and then lift off again, leading to another spin. Maybe it's always been like this offline, and that's part of the change, but it's forcing me to alter my driving line quite a bit.

 

[Motor City Hami]

2.09 has also greatly altered Trial Mountain... it's forcing me to alter my driving line quite a bit.

Curbs. I noticed for both online and offline that the curbs make more difference now. It's like they are twice as tall as before. Could have something to do with the ride height changes?

 

[Adrenaline]

Curbs. I noticed for both online and offline that the curbs make more difference now. It's like they are twice as tall as before. Could have something to do with the ride height changes?

It's not just the curbs, it's all terrains, grass, dirt etc included. Also on Deep Forest, when you spin into the pit barrier on the final corner, like we all do from time to time, the car now goes up into the air, whereas before it would just slam and stop with no upward movement.

Edit: They also added extra barriers to the Monza Chicanes... and the Deep Forest concrete area now gives a short cut penalty... I feel like I don't even know this game anymore!!!

 

[Deja vu]

Also on Deep Forest, when you spin into the pit barrier on the final corner, like we all do from time to time

I thought that only happened to me

 

[GTP_CargoRatt]

Curbs. I noticed for both online and offline that the curbs make more difference now. It's like they are twice as tall as before. Could have something to do with the ride height changes?

I was going to mention that to you last night. I never had a problem with the rumble strips before at Laguna Seca. Now, seems like you bottom out more if you hit them wrong or stradle them. Believe it or not, I raised my RH to 15/40 with a SR of 7.5/8.5 and actually bettered my WRS TT time by .362 with a messy lap. Just something for you guys to chew on.

 

[Highlandor]

ride heights changing absolutely nothing else

Ride heights do change one thing, but not sure how much that "thing" now contributes in this crazy world of 2.09...


Ride height Minimum front and rear, then at max.

To see if or what 'parts' of the game are still "connected".

Instead of looking at what works, I'm doing the opposite.. Why does what not work, what "links" that always previously worked pre 2.08/2.09 are now "broken"..

The game (physics engine - or whatever you want to call it, I'll call it 'physics') still picked up the suspension compression out and reaching 'max', then by changing the ride height this stopped the 'maxing out'.

So ride height is still a contributing factor within the "link" system of the physics, but the "affect" of ride height in terms of handling....

So... /shrug

Agreed - still working on it....but getting there

I'm finding that variables like toe can still make a big difference, alot more than say ride height.

Sometime swapping fr and rr toe can completely change the feel and tyre wear of a car.


Another note:

There are more variables to consider now i.e. the extra trye / fuel depletion variables.

We're running "crazy" tyre/pp combos that previously would have been undriveable for many of the guys on my site. We used to run 585pp racing hards, we now run 600pp sports softs and cars still seem to have plenty of grip.

So we're now starting to run "simulation" mode, and this has changed everything:

Cockpit view
All display OFF (everything - laptimes, tyre wear, gear select - everything)
Stock tyres
All aids off, including ABS

Cars that were undriveable to the average or good driver are now an absolute pleasure and a real 'buzz' i.e. stock MP4's, Zonda Rs etc

"simulation" mode has completely changed GT5, it feels like a totaly different game now.

Which has left me thinking that this is what PD has moved the physics too, creating the smulation it's always claimed to be, and in affect "deleting" most of what was there before.

We're starting to move away from setups etc, PD can't be 'trusted' to stick to one thing. 2 years of constantly changing physics and feel - subsequently race organisors having to check their cars / series handicaps etc etc Then check all cars in that series...

No more, this simply isn't worth as the chances are PD will change things yet again, and again, and again....

They've done this for 2 years now, people, you really think they're gonna stop now??

Go simulaton, forgot about setups and start having serious fun and enjoyment.

I used to hate cockpit view, but now, 'simulation' mode is the way forward..

 

[Motor City Hami]

Recap of tonight's testing. Didn't feel like chasing a ghost, so I took the Honda Civic to the 415PP seasonal event for a couple of hours.

Honda Civic Type R '08
222hp, 1270kg, 415PP
Event: Seasonal 415PP Honda Civic Competition
Track: Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse
Tuned in seasonal event using Logitech G27 wheel with Nixim brake pedal mod
Wheel settings: simulation, power assist off, FFB 1
Driving aids: ABS 1, grip reduction real

I am discovering that a few things need to be set up first before fine tuning an individual setting. If you start with a relatively stock tune and change only one setting, looking for differences, I am finding that the single setting just isn't enough to see any difference. Since the settings work together, you need to start with a relatively down the middle type of a tune before focusing in on an individual setting.

I am starting with a good transmission tune as this can often help reduce wheel spin and keep the LSD from having to carry so much of the tuning load. LSD needs to be optimized or it will mask other settings. I continue to believe that the LSD remains the super tune setting. Finally, the rest of the suspension needs to be kind of down the middle; springs, dampers, arbs with mid-settings, ride height 0/0, camber 2.0/2.0 and toe -10/+10.

I didn't keep track of lap times, but finishing position as compared to the AI was easy to see.

Tonights learning:
1. LSD is still hugely important. Initial torque seemed to have more affect from apex to exit - lower number, more oversteer, higher number, understeer. Accel works as it always has, inside tire spin, raise the number, outside tire spin, lower it. Decel; when off throttle, low number oversteer, high number understeer. Take the time to get the LSD near perfect.
2. Camber is still very valuable, especially in front. Red front tires at the limit under 2.2 and over 2.9. There seemed to be a sweat spot for this car around 2.7.
3. Rear camber didn't seem to do much on this FF. From 0.5 to 2.5 it was all the same.
4. Ride height worked more like the in-game description. Lower front -15 and higher rear -10 gave me more front grip. I only ran a couple of ride height runs so I would like to do more RH tests.
5. I also tested different spring/damper rates. Low front/high rear, like real world still has understeer. High front/low rear also had understeer. Settings closer to center started producing lap time results. Currently I am at about the center in front and a little softer rear as the best result. Conflicting things here, I know, so more testing necessary.

Tune is posted here... https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7832749#post7832749

 

[ugabugaz]

Interesting observations...Might have missed this, but has anyone tried going Half max negative ride height (Meaning distance from 0 to Lowest divided by 2) ? Or even just a few clicks lower than stock

Once back on my PS3 I'll see if I can contribute as well.

What I'm thinking of doing is checking cornering speed (Top Gear seems good) as well as Acc/Braking/Top Speed (Route X).

 

[Adrenaline]

I tested all of the following, ride heights changing absolutely nothing else:

Ride heights do change one thing, but not sure how much that "thing" now contributes in this crazy world of 2.09...

First and foremost, I wanted to clear-up this miscommunication. When I said "ride heights changing nothing else" I meant I was only changing ride heights, and all other suspension settings remained the same. I was not implying that ride heights change nothing.

Moving on...

Just spent another hour playing with mostly ride heights.
This time I took my previously perfected GT500 GT-R on High Speed Ring, and ran it through the ringer.

My initial baseline used the tune 'as written' and ran 57.6
From here below all tests are run with the LSD at 10/15/6(Explained below)

Ride Height 0/0: 57.469
Ride Height -10/-10: I was unable to hold the top line in turn 2 and consistently ended in the guard rail.
Ride Height 0/5: 57.582
Ride Height 5/0: 57.515
Ride Height 5/10: 57.427
Ride Height 10/5: 57.400
Ride Height 10/9: 57.276
Ride Height 9/10: 57.342

The only thing I seemed to notice among these tests are the following, and are not provided as fact, but simply my opinion, based on this single car/track/combination.

• Higher front, lower rear, seems to increase agility and MPH through higher speed corners.
• Lower front, higher rear, seems to increase turning ability and MPH in lower speed corners.
• Despite the previously mentioned 'curb height/car disturbance' the fastest way around High Speed Ring, still requires 2 wheels on the curb in turns 2 and 6.
• 2.09 seems to have increased overall grip and adds understeer to cars that were previously well balanced.
• Due to this increase in grip, I've found that my previous LSD settings were too conservative and I gain more speed, better corner-exit-acceleration from higher "Initial Sensativity" than before, without sacrificing agility in corners. I can't say for sure yet, but where I use to run all LSD Initial settings at very low numbers, in the 7-11 range, it now seems as if 10 is the minimum, and any lower than that you're sacrificing too much forward bite, without gaining any advantage mid-turn that pre-2.08 gave.
• The effects on Aero Dynamics have also altered the balance needed. I can't tell whether this is due to the increased grip all around, or because of the changes made to the Aerodynamic physics, but when I initially tuned this car I tested 20-25 different Front/Rear Aero combinations and found the perfect balance to be 35/45 despite the cars max of 40/60, or the possibility of running a much lower rear aero to gain speed. But during today's test, I shaved another 2 tenths off of my lap time(57.032), by adjusting the Aero settings to account for 2.09.
• From all of the changes, with this car/track combo, 2.09 actually provides faster lap times than I was able to produce when I initially created my tune.
• Damper settings, appear to be far more effective and noticeable than they previously had been. (Crazy idea, food for thought... What if all these years PD simply had Dampers and ride height mixed up. Where 1 tick of Damper setting, was actually altering the car the way 1 tick of ride height should have, and versa visa, where ride height made major effects, because we were actually altering the Dampers by severe amounts. Would explain the value ranges as well.

 

[Taz69]

Adrenaline in what way did dampers work. As in stronger front more grip. Stronger rear more grip? What did you find out??

 

[Motor City Hami]

More FF testing tonight using the Honda Civic 415PP seasonal event.

Tuned in seasonal event using Logitech G27 wheel with Nixim brake pedal mod
Wheel settings: simulation, power assist off, FFB 1
Driving aids: ABS 1, grip reduction real

Honda Civic Type (EP) '04
221hp, 1240kg, 415PP
Track: Autim Ring Mini and Trail Mountain
This tune feels like it is 80% of the way there. It still understeers - way better than stock - but still not the most joyous ride. I am burning the front tires off of this car.
Tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7835721#post7835721

Honda Civic Type R (EK) '97
215hp, 1050kg, 415PP
Track: Tsukuba Circuit and Eifel (Kart) 108A
This tune feels like it is 90% of the way there. It still understeers - way better than stock - and better than the Civic posted above. I do get the front tires to the red glowing state in some of the corners. This tune still needs some work.
Tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7838175#post7838175

Both of these cars understeer way more than the '08 Premium Civic. I think that these two are more representative of the majority of FF cars in GT5. The '04 is one of the worst understeery pigs that I have driven in GT5. I think I need some more help with these cars. I am looking for those tuners who have specialized in FFs. Can these cars turn better without the ride height glitch?

My thoughts from two nights of tuning these cars:
1. High front camber continues to produce results. Started at 2.0 and worked up. Only stopped at 3.0 because I ran out of time to test higher numbers. Definately reduced the front red tire syndrom and produced more cornering ability.
2. High front springs and soft rear springs seemed to still produce positive rotation as in the past. This is backwards from the real world, but hey, it's a game.
3. Dampers - I could really use help here. I generally try to keep them relative to the spring rates. I did try same ext/comp on the rear and that produced some results. Just need advice here. Not very often have I changed dampers independantly from springs.
4. Toe settings worked to a degree, but definately cannot "solve" the problems in these tunes.
5. Ride height did seem to produce small gains, but with front lower than rear. But, like toe, this seems to be a fine adjustment and not the "home run" solution that some people experienced before.
6. Brakes - I did try 2/10 on one of the cars and it did reduce the red tire a bit on entry, but really just delayed the inevitable red, smoking tire.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

I have some free time, I'll give your tune some laps, see if I can improve upon it, I don't use ABS, so my BB would be roughly around 9/7 or 9/8 I have a tune for the EK '97, but it has 300HP, extreme toe and was meant for Eiger, link on my sig.

UPDATE : I am using some suspension and LSD settings from my Top Fuel EK Civic on the EP'04, at Autumn Ring, I can get consistent laps of 45.xxx, my best time is 44.6xxx, no ABS, BB 9/8. Also tried ABS, 2/10 BB like in the tune, 44.9xxx. Testing on Trial Mountain now, the gearing is too short, bouncing rev limiter, so far the handling is great. Oh, I tested with stick controller, so it may not need a little further tweak for wheel. Cheers.

Another update : 1:45.3xxx at Trial Mountain, with longer sixth gear and revised 5th. I feel 1:44.xxx is possible with better run. Will post my tune later on, bye.

The tune changes that I made for the Civic Type R EP '04

RH -20/-5
Springs 15.5/8.9
Dampers ext 6/7
Dampers comp 7/8
ARB 4/7
Camber 4.0/3.0
Toe -0.50/-0.50 -- the rear can have as much as -1.00 toe ( I like it this way )

I also tested with positive Toe : 0.15/-0.50 -- better steering response with very oversteery rear, but may likely to go wide on high speed corner/sweeper. A -0.25 rear toe would be safer.

LSD 6/30/5
Brake balance 9/8 (both no ABS and ABS - but I guess you can try rear bias, maybe 5/10 )

The car somehow only have 220hp at 415pp, 1700 km on the odometer. I can put it on share if you want, we already friends on PSN

Another car : EK '97 Civic

Tested on Tsukuba and Eifel ( 415pp Civic Seasonal )

1:08.2xxx at Tsukuba ( no ABS ) using tune listed below.
59.xxx at Eifel ( Civic Seasonal ) average at 1.00.xxx. - was done with toe : F 0.35 and R -0.35, the rest are the same.

RH -10/5
Springs 12.0/6.5
Dampers ext 6/8
Dampers comp 4/4
ARB 4/5
Camber 3.0/2.0
Toe 0.15/-0.05 - better low speed turn in and response, but prone to understeer on long high speed sweeper ( used this on Eifel ) Increase rear toe to -0.10 or -0.15 for looser rear.

Toe -0.25/-0.05 - not bad on low speed corner entry, less understeer on long sweeper.

LSD 6/37/5
Brake balance 10/9

The biggest handling changer in both of these FF cars is in toe setting, then the anti roll bar and camber comes next. I have my 388PS Top Fuel EK Civic'97 with these toe setting : F 0.35, and R -0.35, this alone reduce the understeer issue and gives the car a very lively rear, try it, but you may need to fine tune everything else to make it work safely.

 

[CSLACR]

Disregard

 

[CyKosis1973]

More FF testing tonight using the Honda Civic 415PP seasonal event.

Tuned in seasonal event using Logitech G27 wheel with Nixim brake pedal mod
Wheel settings: simulation, power assist off, FFB 1
Driving aids: ABS 1, grip reduction real

Honda Civic Type (EP) '04
221hp, 1240kg, 415PP
Track: Autim Ring Mini and Trail Mountain
This tune feels like it is 80% of the way there. It still understeers - way better than stock - but still not the most joyous ride. I am burning the front tires off of this car.
Tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7835721#post7835721

Honda Civic Type R (EK) '97
215hp, 1050kg, 415PP
Track: Tsukuba Circuit and Eifel (Kart) 108A
This tune feels like it is 90% of the way there. It still understeers - way better than stock - and better than the Civic posted above. I do get the front tires to the red glowing state in some of the corners. This tune still needs some work.
Tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7838175#post7838175

Both of these cars understeer way more than the '08 Premium Civic. I think that these two are more representative of the majority of FF cars in GT5. The '04 is one of the worst understeery pigs that I have driven in GT5. I think I need some more help with these cars. I am looking for those tuners who have specialized in FFs. Can these cars turn better without the ride height glitch?

My thoughts from two nights of tuning these cars:
1. High front camber continues to produce results. Started at 2.0 and worked up. Only stopped at 3.0 because I ran out of time to test higher numbers. Definately reduced the front red tire syndrom and produced more cornering ability.
2. High front springs and soft rear springs seemed to still produce positive rotation as in the past. This is backwards from the real world, but hey, it's a game.
3. Dampers - I could really use help here. I generally try to keep them relative to the spring rates. I did try same ext/comp on the rear and that produced some results. Just need advice here. Not very often have I changed dampers independantly from springs.
4. Toe settings worked to a degree, but definately cannot "solve" the problems in these tunes.
5. Ride height did seem to produce small gains, but with front lower than rear. But, like toe, this seems to be a fine adjustment and not the "home run" solution that some people experienced before.
6. Brakes - I did try 2/10 on one of the cars and it did reduce the red tire a bit on entry, but really just delayed the inevitable red, smoking tire.

1. I've been running some of NEWDRIVER's cars with him recently and he seems to be using what I consider very low front camber, to good effect. By low I mean 1.0-1.3, I don't normally run anything less than 2.0 for FF cars.
2. I build the vast majority of my cars like this, regardless of drivetrain. However, I do tend to match the spring 'strength' to weight distribution. Disregard the actual values in the spring slider and just use the incremental marks to move it to the required '%'. If your weight is 60/40, then set your springs to 60%/40%. You'll likely need to add another 5-10% to the front spring, depending on how the car handles.
3. Dampers, for FF cars I've been using a combination on CSL and Jack's method. Front dampers, set EXT high and COMP low, flip the rear dampers, EXT low, COMP high. This will allow weight to shift forward under braking and will resist rearward weight shift under acceleration. The large the difference, the more rotation you'll get. I regularly run EXT: 8/3 COMP: 3/8. This is still a hugely effective tuning measure post 2.09.
4. Toe. I still don't prescribe to negative rear toe for FF cars, I find it makes them hugely fragile. Drag a rear tyre over the grass at speed and you'll switch ends quickly. I use negative toe up front, usually start around -0.20 and adjusting accordingly. Rear positive toe can be quite small or as much as the front toe. Positive toe at the rear I believe helps the car rotate as it is working on the loaded outside tyre and not the unloaded inside tyre. This is the reverse of the front, where you want the inside unloaded tyre doing the work.
5. I agree that ride height is only used to trim the attitude of the car, I still run higher front than rear, but I don't actually think that's back to front.
6. Brakes I believe are quite personal, I've run rear bias on a lot of FF cars, but recently post 2.08/09 I have been more often running front bias, but only by a click or two. Rear bias is a nice trick if you're still struggling to find a bit of rotation under braking, but it can be difficult for club-thumbed idiots like me to control effectively.

I PM'd NEWDRIVER my full method for setting up FWD cars the other day, then met up with him online to see how he'd gotten along. I'm pleased to report that it worked fairly well. I'll post it up here or PM it to you if you'd like to try it out 👍

{Cy}

 

[NEWDRIVER2]

@Cy 👍 your Method working well with me mate FF and FR . And it's help me int tuning most of my FF and it become my enjoyable diving FF cars now .

ND

 

[Mnguitas27]

Well, hello guys. I'm new here, not because i havent read you before but i just signed up a few weeks ago.
Here, in Argentina, we use to drive FF cars. They are the cheapest one and our market is full of these. So, in Gran Turismo, we tend to make FF championships.
So, here a bit of my knowledge:

• The ride height is extremely important in these cars. Always we use half negative FRONT, a bit higher at the BACK.
• The EXT and COMP is likely to be stock, but i usually use EXT 8/8 COMP 2/4
• SPRINGS (here is the secret, not so secret ...) always stronger at the front. Something like 10.0-5.0. This difference is crucial, because the good handling of the car depends on this. Of course, tests needed before you race, because each cars is different. Consider the weight distribution as well.
• The CAMBER, as usual, higher at the front, lower at the back. My setup, usually 1.0-1.5 at the front, 0.0-0.5 at the back.
• And TOE, and here is the second most important secret. The TOE mus be, according to me, -0.10 at the front, no more than that in order to get a good cornering exit, and -0.25/-0.40 at the back, so we get a good average cornering speed.

So, here is my knowledge . Just in case, the vast majority of this settings i tested them in the Ford Focus ST '06.

 

[Motor City Hami]

If I were to attack some additional camber testing, which track would most people find the most credible. I tested at Top Gear last time and someone commented that it isn't valid becasue the track isn't banked anywhere. So, can anyone recommend a credible track?

Grand Valley
High Speed Ring
Trail Mountain
Where...

 

[trackripper123]

GVS is always pretty solid, has that off camber chicane bit before the tunnel, and the hairpin before that.

 

[CSLACR]

If I were to attack some additional camber testing, which track would most people find the most credible. I tested at Top Gear last time and someone commented that it isn't valid becasue the track isn't banked anywhere. So, can anyone recommend a credible track?

Grand Valley
High Speed Ring
Trail Mountain
Where...

Laguna Seca makes more use of camber or not than any tracks I drive regularly, I'd go for that or TM/DF personally.

Damper settings, appear to be far more effective and noticeable than they previously had been. (Crazy idea, food for thought... What if all these years PD simply had Dampers and ride height mixed up. Where 1 tick of Damper setting, was actually altering the car the way 1 tick of ride height should have, and versa visa, where ride height made major effects, because we were actually altering the Dampers by severe amounts. Would explain the value ranges as well.

I had to change my SC430 dampers from 10/5 5/10 to 10/1 1/10, and they still aren't doing what they used to.(in terms of fixing the handling quirks)

I've also thought curbing seems less effective than previously, and the suspension does less to help with bump absorption than before too, imo.

 

[NEWDRIVER2]

I think GVS is good to test on it . Or if you want to test in similar track to NURB RING you can use Suzuka Circuit as you found the two deferent turn right and left a long straight and many of the change direction !! .