Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

[Giancarlo]

What's usually on the sidewalls is the maximum safe pressure. Not that you'd want to drive around on 50 psi or so..

Just the maximum is.

Wait, so i'm confused, what are you supposed to do to "keep them inflated" then? Just maintain all 4 tires on the same PSI?

Why don't they just write a minimum PSI on the sides?

I drive on 50 PSI on my 220/40's...

So the GTI is going to the dealer next week for it's 60k checkup, but I figured I'd ask around here on a couple things the car is developing. Whenever I start the car up, there is a squeak that happens at the same time the motor turns over every time until it starts firing. Starter related?

I'm also getting a nasty smell from the air conditioner. I thought it was just from not being run very often when I'm at college, but it was doing it today. Could that be from the cabin filter? Would the VW dealer be able to check that out? And it's also leaking a fair amount of water. I figure this is from the AC, but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure it's not coming from the radiator. Is this something I should be worried about?

It might be the serpentine belt? Have a listen in that area while someone starts your car. Mine squeaks when i start the car and goes away once the car warms a bit.

If it's an earthy sort of smell, it could be your cabin filters. Do some internet searching, they're usually very easy to change out yourself. If it's a more chemical, anti-freeze like smell, you might have a bigger problem. And the condensor usually drips a little water when it's hot out. That might be normal.

 

[Philly]

It might be the serpentine belt? Have a listen in that area while someone starts your car. Mine squeaks when i start the car and goes away once the car warms a bit.

I'm not sure if it's a belt though, because it only does it before the engine fires. The car usually goes "*cough* *cough* *vroom*" when it starts but now it's a "*squeak* *squeak* *vroom*" with the squeaks happening right over the "cough"s. And it doesn't really have the same sound that a belt would.

If it's an earthy sort of smell, it could be your cabin filters. Do some internet searching, they're usually very easy to change out yourself. If it's a more chemical, anti-freeze like smell, you might have a bigger problem. And the condensor usually drips a little water when it's hot out. That might be normal.

The smell usually just happens with the AC hasn't been run in a while. And it's a very unpleasant sort of musty smell. I wouldn't worry about it but it's just so bad that you have to run with the windows down and the AC on for a while if it's making the smell. And as far as I know it doesn't do it with the AC off.

Anyways, lately my left blinker side has got SUPER fast. the right blinker is normal, I thought a light may have been out but I took some pics to see if any of yall had any ideas on where or not to change a few? Or somehow see a light that out that I didnt. There was however indeed a light out when this problem first came up and that was my LEFT licenses plate light, but I promptly replaced that and its still fast any Ideas?

You have the JDM TYTE bug?

 

[TheBook]

The smell usually just happens with the AC hasn't been run in a while. And it's a very unpleasant sort of musty smell. I wouldn't worry about it but it's just so bad that you have to run with the windows down and the AC on for a while if it's making the smell. And as far as I know it doesn't do it with the AC off.

Then it's most likely your cabin filter; if it's never been replaced, it's probably going to be loaded with stuff when it gets pulled out. Those should be replaced every one to two years, usually.

 

[eiriksmil]

Cheers 👍 I'll look into it then. May even repair it myself seeing as they're only fairly small spots and not structural.

But at the same time I personally would much rather buy a car I see the rust on, than a car that has been re-painted badly. Not saying it's gonna be bad looking, just sometimes it's best left alone

Oh, and cars with different paint shades eh? haha

 

[Joey D]

Wait, so i'm confused, what are you supposed to do to "keep them inflated" then? Just maintain all 4 tires on the same PSI?

Why don't they just write a minimum PSI on the sides?

I drive on 50 PSI on my 220/40's...

Inside the door of most cars there is the recommended tire pressure for that particular car. It's apparently 33psi all around for the Cooper. I was just wondering if changing the tires and rims change the recommended psi, after going to Discount Tire they told me to keep all the tires between 33-35psi and I'll be fine so I just had them air up all the tires. Everything is good now.

 

[ROAD_DOGG33J]

My car has developed a repeating low pitch howl when on throttle. It sort of sounds like a hamster trying to power a radiator fan. Any ideas?

edit: A search on google turned up that it could be a wheel hub/bearing. The problem probably is on the wheel, since the noise has a somewhat constant timing to it.

 

[Picc84]

Inside the door of most cars there is the recommended tire pressure for that particular car. It's apparently 33psi all around for the Cooper. I was just wondering if changing the tires and rims change the recommended psi, after going to Discount Tire they told me to keep all the tires between 33-35psi and I'll be fine so I just had them air up all the tires. Everything is good now.

I run different PSI when i do different things! If Im just carting my ass/parents around, i go with regular psi, if I'm driving with my friends (which have a Supra, a 240 and a new civic Si) I drop the pressure in the front a tad and pop it a tad up in the back, its actually working for reducing understeer!

 

[Perfect Balance]

Anyways, lately my left blinker side has got SUPER fast. the right blinker is normal, I thought a light may have been out but I took some pics to see if any of yall had any ideas on where or not to change a few? Or somehow see a light that out that I didnt. There was however indeed a light out when this problem first came up and that was my LEFT licenses plate light, but I promptly replaced that and its still fast any Ideas?

The only lights that would make it blink fast when they go out are the actual lights that blink. A tag light wouldn't do that. Check the front turn signals. They should be on when you turn on your lights, and then get brighter as they blink. Get someone to check all your lights while you run through all of them. Taking pictures of your car with your lights on isn't exactly helpful.

EDIT: Turn your hazards on and walk around the car and check all the lights, and then have someone press the brakes and do the same.

 

[Giancarlo]

Inside the door of most cars there is the recommended tire pressure for that particular car. It's apparently 33psi all around for the Cooper. I was just wondering if changing the tires and rims change the recommended psi, after going to Discount Tire they told me to keep all the tires between 33-35psi and I'll be fine so I just had them air up all the tires. Everything is good now.

Hmm, alright. I'll look into that on mine. 👍

 

[Paulie]

Will an 8" wide rim give me a 235mm wide tyre?

 

[Rotary Junkie]

235-245mm section width seems quite common on 8" rims so yes.

Obviously you could go slightly bigger or slightly smaller but that would either run into the issues Joey had a while back or be stretched (albeit so mildly that it wouldn't make much difference).

 

[Paulie]

235-245mm section width seems quite common on 8" rims so yes.

Obviously you could go slightly bigger or slightly smaller but that would either run into the issues Joey had a while back or be stretched (albeit so mildly that it wouldn't make much difference).

I thought so, and thanks.👍 I'm aiming to get 17x8" rims for my Ute soonish, I've seen on other Commodores of mine's vintage the tyre size 235/45R17 used, and since it's the tyre size also used for BA-BF XR Falcons, I know they're not rediculously priced, plus that's about the profile you want (roughly) for optimum handling. So since it will look good, perform good and not break the bank it's a size I want pretty badly (it will also be a 20mm increase in tyre width). Problem is most rims I've seen in the styles I like only come in 17x7" , but I haven't really looked very hard yet.

 

[zed300]

Anyways, lately my left blinker side has got SUPER fast.

A fast flashing indicater means a blown bulb.

Wait, so i'm confused,

I drive on 50 PSI on my 220/40's...

Over inflated tyres WILL wear the center of the tyre down very quickly.

My car has developed a repeating low pitch howl when on throttle. It sort of sounds like a hamster trying to power a radiator fan. Any ideas?

edit: A search on google turned up that it could be a wheel hub/bearing. The problem probably is on the wheel, since the noise has a somewhat constant timing to it.

A wheel bearing sound is very metallic when in failure.
Does the pitch change from left to right? The unloaded wheel, will make less noise. (I assume the noise is from the front, as you have mentioned the radiator)

 

[Rotary Junkie]

I thought so, and thanks.👍 I'm aiming to get 17x8" rims for my Ute soonish, I've seen on other Commodores of mine's vintage the tyre size 235/45R17 used, and since it's the tyre size also used for BA-BF XR Falcons, I know they're not rediculously priced, plus that's about the profile you want (roughly) for optimum handling. So since it will look good, perform good and not break the bank it's a size I want pretty badly (it will also be a 20mm increase in tyre width). Problem is most rims I've seen in the styles I like only come in 17x7" , but I haven't really looked very hard yet.

17x8s are very, very common here on Camaros and Mustangs (as in if it had a V8 and was new enough for 17s they were 8" wide. Full stop) so...

 

[Thatman]

The only lights that would make it blink fast when they go out are the actual lights that blink. A tag light wouldn't do that. Check the front turn signals. They should be on when you turn on your lights, and then get brighter as they blink. Get someone to check all your lights while you run through all of them. Taking pictures of your car with your lights on isn't exactly helpful.

EDIT: Turn your hazards on and walk around the car and check all the lights, and then have someone press the brakes and do the same.

A fast flashing indicater means a blown bulb.

I have had people step on the brakes, and I did a walk around..., Could it be the blinkers are somehow almost out?

 

[ROAD_DOGG33J]

A wheel bearing sound is very metallic when in failure.
Does the pitch change from left to right? The unloaded wheel, will make less noise. (I assume the noise is from the front, as you have mentioned the radiator)

Hmm...I don't think the pitch changes. The noise is coming from the front. At first I thought it was a belt or a slowly spinning fan. But the fan is either on or off, and the belt would probably be high-pitched. The noise repeats about every 0.5-1 second and it only happens when I'm on the throttle.

edit: Went for a test drive. The noise happens in neutral too when the car is standing still. It becomes pretty noticeable by 1000rpm and it actually speeds pretty quickly. By about 2000rpm it's going really fast compared to the lower side of 1000 where it actually repeats about every half-second. By 2500rpm you can't pick out the noise anymore, probably since it's repeating so fast. It seems to be coming from the right side (left side if you are looking at the hood from the front), so I guess it's a good possibility it's a belt. It's kind of an old fan noise.

 

[Perfect Balance]

A wheel bearing sound is very metallic when in failure.

I don't think I've ever heard one sound metallic. More like a grinding sound like rocks would make.

I have had people step on the brakes, and I did a walk around..., Could it be the blinkers are somehow almost out?

No. It shouldn't be your brakes, since they are separate from the turn signals. If you don't have a bulb out then you've most likely got some kind of electrical problems. It really sounds like a bulb though.


Also, if one of your bulbs is the wrong kind, it could cause this, as well as those led replacement bulbs you can buy.

 

[Slick Rick]

My friend just bought a car and its having some problems idling properly. After ildling smoothly for a few seconds it starts getting irratic and the rpm keeps jumping up and down, sometimes it drops really low but then jumps up just before it feels like its going to cut out and sometimes it just drops and stalls.
We bought a used maf sensor from the scrappy, cleaned the air filter and changed the spark plugs but that hasnt solved the problem, I was thinking we could change the coil pack and ht leads but im not sure if that would work or be a waste of money. Is there anything else it could be?
The car's a Citoren Saxo vts btw.

 

[Rotary Junkie]

The car's a Citroen Saxo

Well there's your problem.

 

[niky]

IACV or vacuum issue. Clean out the IACV on the throttle body and check that all your vacuum hoses are tightly fitted.

 

[zed300]

Hmm...I don't think the pitch changes. The noise is coming from the front. At first I thought it was a belt or a slowly spinning fan. But the fan is either on or off, and the belt would probably be high-pitched. The noise repeats about every 0.5-1 second and it only happens when I'm on the throttle.

edit: Went for a test drive. The noise happens in neutral too when the car is standing still. It becomes pretty noticeable by 1000rpm and it actually speeds pretty quickly. By about 2000rpm it's going really fast compared to the lower side of 1000 where it actually repeats about every half-second. By 2500rpm you can't pick out the noise anymore, probably since it's repeating so fast. It seems to be coming from the right side (left side if you are looking at the hood from the front), so I guess it's a good possibility it's a belt. It's kind of an old fan noise.

I don't think I've ever heard one sound metallic. More like a grinding sound like rocks would make.

The beginnning of a wheel bearing failure is simliar to a wornout disc brake pad sound, metallic scratching, then the rock grinding comes soon after.

No. It shouldn't be your brakes, since they are separate from the turn signals. If you don't have a bulb out then you've most likely got some kind of electrical problems. It really sounds like a bulb though.


Also, if one of your bulbs is the wrong kind, it could cause this, as well as those led replacement bulbs you can buy.

I have had people step on the brakes, and I did a walk around..., Could it be the blinkers are somehow almost out?

Electical related items don't run-out, they work or don't. Because this is the case, I don't think the flasher unit is a problem.

 

[Thatman]

@ Perfect Balance and Zed300

Well then I guess Ill just start replacing bulbs (even if they are still working) and see if that works.. thanks:tup:

 

[zed300]

IACV or vacuum issue. Clean out the IACV on the throttle body and check that all your vacuum hoses are tightly fitted.

I agreee, check all vacuum lines for splits, you can spray a tiny amount of fuel on the hoses to see if the engine picks back up when it starts to die. A lengthy process of elimination if you have a lot of vacuum hoses.

 

[Giancarlo]

Hey guys i have another question.. At what mileage/age would you say an engine needs to start using a thicker grade of oil? My '02 RSX is coming up on 68,000 miles and i'll need an oil change soon. Should i stick with the factory 5W-20, or should i move to 5W-30 or even to the more common 10W?

 

[Joey D]

Hey guys i have another question.. At what mileage/age would you say an engine needs to start using a thicker grade of oil? My '02 RSX is coming up on 68,000 miles and i'll need an oil change soon. Should i stick with the factory 5W-20, or should i move to 5W-30 or even to the more common 10W?

Your probably best doing what is recommended for the car and if you feel if you should change the weight then I would consult a Honda/Acura dealership to see what they say. I know guys that have run the same recommended weight oil in their 200,000 miles Civics. I don't think you should be all that worried. If you look around online you'll get people saying the similar thing. Many same not to worry about it, I'd at least consult a trained Honda tech.

 

[Giancarlo]

True, it's just been boiling lava hot in South Florida lately so i thought i should change grades to compensate for that. 5W-30 is what the Type-S runs with, so i thought maybe that would be the best choice. Shrug.

 

[Thatman]

OKay.... UPDATE
The damn blinker fixed itself somehow; so chalk it up for faulty FC wiring!
Now if my clock just worked......

 

[McLaren]

Talked to one of my buddies today & looks like he's got a few problems; car is a late model RSX Type-S.

First thing, he says the wheel starts to really vibrate at 65Mph. I've already come to conclusion that his front tires aren't balanced properly or the car's out of alignment. I don't know what else though.

Second thing, he's running 4 different tire manufacturers on each wheel. The fronts & rears match in size, but the tread is obviously worn more on 2 tires than the others. I thought it would be alright at first, but I don't think running 4 manufacturers is the smartest idea.

Third, he's got a low pitch sound coming from the car whenever he hits 3,000-3,600RPM. It's not a squeak or whistle, but it is noticeable when you're quiet. When he shifts or stays out that range though, it's gone. Related issue, the gears grind in when shifting from 4th, and none others; kind of weird.

Fourth, he's got a bent sway bar, so I don't know if it's really affected him, but I've told him it could lead to an issue.

Fifth, the previous owner was very cheap on his mods. It has an EBay exhaust & intake. However, there has to be a major issue with the intake. It's a short ram in which the filter is pointed towards the driver, & is "held up" by one of those stretchable cables used for transporting large equipment. It's like a small "bungee" cord.

The car was obviously bought used & has quite a few issues regarding the tint & more. If I remember, last we talked, he was going to have 1 new tire mounted on the front, something I advised against.

 

[zed300]

Hey guys i have another question.. At what mileage/age would you say an engine needs to start using a thicker grade of oil? My '02 RSX is coming up on 68,000 miles and i'll need an oil change soon. Should i stick with the factory 5W-20, or should i move to 5W-30 or even to the more common 10W?

Oil grade would be relative to the rate of requirement. Say at 2500 mls you need more than pint, then 10w40, even 15 would be advisory. Depends on whether it is leaking or using the oil though. That sort of mileage, should only just be starting to use a pint every 10'000 mls, as long as regular oil changes have been made, the wear on the engine should be fairly minimal.

 

[Giancarlo]

First thing, he says the wheel starts to really vibrate at 65Mph. I've already come to conclusion that his front tires aren't balanced properly or the car's out of alignment. I don't know what else though.

Second thing, he's running 4 different tire manufacturers on each wheel. The fronts & rears match in size, but the tread is obviously worn more on 2 tires than the others. I thought it would be alright at first, but I don't think running 4 manufacturers is the smartest idea.

Those two issues could be related, as well as a balancing issue.

Fifth, the previous owner was very cheap on his mods. It has an EBay exhaust & intake. However, there has to be a major issue with the intake. It's a short ram in which the filter is pointed towards the driver, & is "held up" by one of those stretchable cables used for transporting large equipment. It's like a small "bungee" cord.

You mean the tube bends out of the engine and towards the driver? That's normal for the RSX. It's held up by a cable? That's not very good. What is it attached to? The A/C tubing? It's not a great idea to put stress on that.