Ask GTP About Your Car Problems/General Questions

Yeah, I know, but I was hoping that someone would have an idea. Oh well.
 
Might check an Audi forum and see if it has happened to anyone else or might know how that is wired to begin to figure out where the problem may be.
 
Yeah, I know, but I was hoping that someone would have an idea. Oh well.

Did you consult your Fluke yet?

fluke-meter.jpg
 
No, we actually don't have a functional one of those in the house. :guilty:

It looks like it may be the hazard relay. Apparently, those go bad more frequently than expected. Thankfully it's cheap and a easy DIY job, so I'll see if he wants to have that part replaced.



One more question, and I'm sorry so sound like an absolute idiot about it, but how hard is it really to wash the branding off a branded title in the US? I've heard stories of people bringing cars across state lines to do this, but am not sure how true it really is. To be clear, I am not trying to wash the title, however, I saw an Autocheck that shows a "Corrected Title," and so I was wondering whether that could have been a possibility to cause that title correction?
 
I have a buzzing sound coming from my front, passenger side area of the car. It is not anything on the interior nor is it any thing to do with the stereo system (that's all the advice I got on the MINI forums). It speeds up with the car and starts becoming audible around 35mph and really loud by 65mph, the engine speed has nothing to do with it as I can shift into neutral and the buzzing remains constant until the car starts to change speed.

When I turn left, putting load on the passenger side, the noise gets louder and when I turn right, taking load off the passenger side, the noise gets quieter and almost goes away completely.

At first I thought it was my winter tires just being unholy loud and they were slightly under inflated. I pumped them up and the noise still continued, so I swapped the winter rubber for the summer tires and the noise is still there. So I've ruled out the tires being an issue. My only though now is either a wheel bearing or a CV joint but I'm not sure.

Any thought?
 
I'd go with the wheel bearing. A CV Joint is more of a clunk-clunking... and it'd feel really bad on turns... though not having experienced a CV Joint failure on a Mini, I can't say if it'd be the same as more common Japanese cars.

Either way, replacing whichever is broke will necessitate taking the wheel off... so you'll find out when you have it taken down.
 
I'd go with the wheel bearing. A CV Joint is more of a clunk-clunking... and it'd feel really bad on turns... though not having experienced a CV Joint failure on a Mini, I can't say if it'd be the same as more common Japanese cars.

Either way, replacing whichever is broke will necessitate taking the wheel off... so you'll find out when you have it taken down.

I think the same! That or a small stone on the tire :lol:! I cant hear the sound your talking about but, sometimes it can be it;)!
 
What I find weird that today( after the flat I fixed) that the front passenger wheel lost all its traction...though not under the warranty that my step father bought with and the obvious alignment issues. What do you think could be wrong? I will post a picture soon
 
Replaced it with bald tyres? That's the only thing I can think of....

Although I am sure you didn't change a tyre just to put down an illegal bald tyre in it
 
My front passenger tyre is bald. I have to get a cheap one though the rest of the tires still have tread left on them.
 
I have a buzzing sound coming from my front, passenger side area of the car. It is not anything on the interior nor is it any thing to do with the stereo system (that's all the advice I got on the MINI forums). It speeds up with the car and starts becoming audible around 35mph and really loud by 65mph, the engine speed has nothing to do with it as I can shift into neutral and the buzzing remains constant until the car starts to change speed.
Any thought?

A buzzing sound that only occurs at speed is almost always a panel, undertray, splash guard, etc. coming loose and wind speed causes the noises.

A bad axle/CV would click when you take a tight turn. A bearing will not be a buzzing sound and you'll feel a 'grind' when you come to a stop. It'll be really loud & noticeable and can change pitch depending on speed and how the tire is loaded.

Just in case you're getting your adjectives mixed up when describing the sound; jack the car up and spin the wheels with your hand. You'll be able to feel a bad bearing very easily.

My guess is that it's the undertray. You probably pulled up to far and high-sided the nose of your car over a parking stop. When you backed out, you may have pulled a piece of the undercarriage off of alignment. This happens all the time and really isn't a big deal. A jack, 15min, and checking for loose things & spinning your wheels will tell you a lot more than you'll be able to find on a forum.

Good luck.
 
My front passenger tyre is bald. I have to get a cheap one though the rest of the tires still have tread left on them.

The answer was right there mate:rolleyes:! Dont play with serious things! Change the front tires as soon as possible:tup:! In my opinion they play the most important role on the safety on your car:tup:! Try second hand tires! Ive bought tires practically new (500km)!
 
The answer was right there mate:rolleyes:! Dont play with serious things! Change the front tires as soon as possible:tup:! In my opinion they play the most important role on the safety on your car:tup:! Try second hand tires! Ive bought tires practically new (500km)!

His point is that his passenger front tire is suddenly bald when it was the same age as the rest previously... And the rest all have tread still.
 
I have a buzzing sound coming from my front, passenger side area of the car. It is not anything on the interior nor is it any thing to do with the stereo system (that's all the advice I got on the MINI forums). It speeds up with the car and starts becoming audible around 35mph and really loud by 65mph, the engine speed has nothing to do with it as I can shift into neutral and the buzzing remains constant until the car starts to change speed.

When I turn left, putting load on the passenger side, the noise gets louder and when I turn right, taking load off the passenger side, the noise gets quieter and almost goes away completely.

At first I thought it was my winter tires just being unholy loud and they were slightly under inflated. I pumped them up and the noise still continued, so I swapped the winter rubber for the summer tires and the noise is still there. So I've ruled out the tires being an issue. My only though now is either a wheel bearing or a CV joint but I'm not sure.

Any thought?

Had it checked out by a service centre today, it is indeed the wheel bearing. It's $500 to replace it too, the part is almost $400 alone! Is it common for the wheel bearing and the hub to be one piece? I remember on the Blazer the bearings were like $40 and just slid in.
 
Is it common for the wheel bearing and the hub to be one piece

Pretty common now-a-days.

My Ram 2500 4x4 is the same way.I had to replace the hub assembly.I could not buy just a bearing.I was able to get a hub assembly for it for $195.00 and I did the work myself.It was actually pretty easy to do.
 
The Mini probably has no less than six special BMW-only tools to do the job.

Then we need to do an ECU reflash to reset the ABS sensors... look, don't tell me it's not necessary, kid... I'm going by the service book here. I'll have to charge you an extra hour's worth of labor for wasting my time with these questions...
 
Some of these cars are ridiculous with their tools. My car takes a 38mm socket to change the oil. I had to pay VW for 45 min of labor to change a headlight. Unless you're Renault, it must take some very tricky engineering to make a headlight change take that long. Unless I was paying the guy to beat off or something, which is likely.
 
38mm socket to change the oil.

What?! :lol:

Is that the drain plug?

I can see changing a headlight taking about half an hour on a new car. The bumper has to come off on the Civic, and I always have trouble with removing those plastic pins locking pins.
 
What?! :lol:

Is that the drain plug?

I can see changing a headlight taking about half an hour on a new car. The bumper has to come off on the Civic, and I always have trouble with removing those plastic pins locking pins.

It's for the oil filter. It's one of those canister ones. It's kinda a pain.

The bumper has to come off the GTI for the driver's side headlight. Not a repair I wanted to do in a parking lot in winter. I'm somewhat surprised to see that the GTI isn't the only car designed like that.
 
Yep, they put bolts that you have to access on the bottom of the lights behind the bumper, when it could easily be designed to just do it all under the hood.
 
Yep, they put bolts that you have to access on the bottom of the lights behind the bumper, when it could easily be designed to just do it all under the hood.
I'm almost positive that theft prevention is the main reason for all these hard to access bolts.
I know that when the 2002-2003 nissan maxima came out with the HID headlights, they were getting stolen left and right(couple of easily accessible bolts held them in place). A set of HID lights costs a very nice penny.
 
No HIDs on the Civic.

Besides, it takes all of four screws and like twelve of those plastic pins to get my bumper off. A thief could get the screws out (these are accessed in the wheel well) and rip the bumper off enough to get to whatever they want to. I believe there's a couple bolts holding the lights on under the hood though, and opening that should set off the alarm.
 
My 2006 VW B6 passat has constant popping noises in the front of the car and I've checked everything and so has my tuner and we don't know WTF it is. I've replaced the bushings and I've checked my suspension (DTS Line coilovers) and tightened everything up and there is nothing loose. I just got my brake kit installed this weekend and it didn't solve anything. Anyone got any ideas??? :(.

PS; this is not a new problem, it has been happening for nearly a year now.
 
So I am going to be purchasing a car, and I've been looking nationwide for the right one. I've been debating between driving it home and having it shipped. Does anyone have any experience with shipping cars? What are the good companies? How much would it typically cost? Have you had any issues with shippers? Did you do to "protect" the car? Any tips?
 
So I am going to be purchasing a car, and I've been looking nationwide for the right one. I've been debating between driving it home and having it shipped. Does anyone have any experience with shipping cars? What are the good companies? How much would it typically cost? Have you had any issues with shippers? Did you do to "protect" the car? Any tips?

Shipping can be very expensive...or it can be relatively cheap. It all depends on when you want to take delivery. If you want it ASAP, you're gonna pay. If you are willing to wait 2-3wks, it can be 1/2 the price.

If I were you and had the opportunity to drive it home, I would. Unless it is some exotic or collector's piece, drive the damn thing. Road trips are one of life's little pleasures that people do not take advantage of enough.
 
My 2006 VW B6 passat has constant popping noises in the front of the car and I've checked everything and so has my tuner and we don't know WTF it is. I've replaced the bushings and I've checked my suspension (DTS Line coilovers) and tightened everything up and there is nothing loose. I just got my brake kit installed this weekend and it didn't solve anything. Anyone got any ideas??? :(.

PS; this is not a new problem, it has been happening for nearly a year now.

Check the gearbox mount(the top one, not the pendulum mount) very carefully. You may need to remove the airbox and the plastic arch liner and undertray. The mounts crack and cause noises similar to a worn suspension bush or even a CV joint.
 
Sorry I haven't been on for a few days...

Shipping can be very expensive...or it can be relatively cheap. It all depends on when you want to take delivery. If you want it ASAP, you're gonna pay. If you are willing to wait 2-3wks, it can be 1/2 the price.

If I were you and had the opportunity to drive it home, I would. Unless it is some exotic or collector's piece, drive the damn thing. Road trips are one of life's little pleasures that people do not take advantage of enough.

I'm thinking of somewhere between 1.5-2.5 weeks for delivery of the vehicle. I guess my main concern is that my car won't get stolen or somehow damaged by the shipper. I had been considering doing a road trip and driving it home, however, I currently can't drop out of school and work for 3-5 days just to drive it home. I'll be taking a road trip to California in a couple of months anyways.

Anyone else? Come on guys, I know some of you have shipped cars before.
 
Anyone here know about E24 635 CSis?
Are they reliable?
Are they good to live with?
What would be a good price for one in good conditions?
Or general info about them.
 
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