ASM Systems? Suspension modification?

I'm gravely disappointed that I've come to this discovery in Gran Turismo;

Why do the ASM system options do more to a car's handling than ANY of the suspension settings do?
I've been testing for a week now...and it seems the suspension settings do next to nothing while the ASM options change the handling of the car DYNAMICALLY!
Can anyone else attest to this? :crazy:
 
ASM controls braking to avoid understeer and oversteer, turn it off and you be able to go much faster through corners but if you can't control your car you will spinout, suspension can make great improvements on a car if you know what you are doing.
 
I'm gravely disappointed that I've come to this discovery in Gran Turismo;

Why do the ASM system options do more to a car's handling than ANY of the suspension settings do?
I've been testing for a week now...and it seems the suspension settings do next to nothing while the ASM options change the handling of the car DYNAMICALLY!
Can anyone else attest to this? :crazy:

This actually reflects real life to some extent. This sounds similar to what I read about some cars in magazines.. Some real-life cars are over-burdened with stability controls, and yes, it does kill your speed if it's set too high (in real life and in the game).

Good thing we can shut all this crap off, eh? (hint hint)

Settings, on th other hand, cause subtle changes in handling that can aid you and increase your lap times by what seems like small amounts (a tenth of a second in this corner....a half a second in that one) but when you add up all the cornering speed you gain, it multiplies quite a bit if you're good at pushing your car to its limits.
 
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Well, the biggest disappointment was the suspension settings.
I actually set up a lot of autocross and road race cars in real life on a daily basis.
The settings don't run true to real life though.
I try to set my FR chassis cars up to throttle steer, obviously the best way to set up an FR.
I always brake in a straight line and throttle steer the car out of corners, so I know it's not the braking.
The brake controller is set to a point where the car stops the fastest with a slight tire squeal.
In this aspect,
Using the 2001 Mazda RX-7 Spirit for example, the car I primarily use for time trials in the game;

488 HP ( My friends and I usually race with a 500 HP cap), Original / Race Suspension, Medium Racing Tire on both front and rear, Limited slip full adjustable type @ 10 / 33 / 20, with ASM's at 5 / 5 / 2.

1. When I bumped up the rear spring rate to max, the shock bound and rebound to max, the rear stabilizer to max, and toed out the rear, the car actually UNDERSTEERED more than when the settings were set to default.
This is not what should happen in real life.
That would be an undrivably stiff rear.
With a rear THAT stiff in a FR chassis, the car should hit a bump and spin out for heaven's sake; One should be able to tap the gas and have the car spin out.

2. After doing this, I set the suspension settings back to default.
I then bumped the ASM settings around a little bit, such as putting the understeer correction up to 10 and having the oversteer correction at 0 with the same amount of traction control, and I had the car spinning out.

This is the disappointment. haha
None of my knowledge means anything in this game.
The suspension options should do more than the ASM correction options.

3. I shut the ASM corrections completely off. The car understeers heavily, even as I turn the suspension settings back to the same way I had them in the section 1 I listed. It truly doesn't make any sense. :grumpy::confused:
 
I've heard all this before, not much you can do about it; it's a videogame. But at least you've found one of the keys to GT4 success, eh? You've shut the ASM off! Most folks don't even get that far into the game I'm sure.
 
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Taking the time to properly tune a cars suspension will drastically change a cars handling. Not only will you be able to corner better, but it will help out with things like tire wear. And in endurances it a big plus.

On the majority of my cars I run with the aids completely off.

Except on the high powered cars, like the Audi R8. I believe that I have the aids set to 3-1-2. It helps on tire life, and dosn't criple the car as far as I can tell.
 
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I generally only drive fully modified cars with no aids. I just play with the gearing so it is acceptable at low speed. I just set first or second, depending on the car, where it will hold traction on a straight and flat road. I have quite a few ~700 HP FR cars and a 463 HP Alfa that drive fine with no aids, but I can’t do the same with a full power Supra or SRT4.

I can usually get oversteer/understeer where I want it with brake bias, toe angle, and adjustable center differential if available. The sway bars don’t seem to do much for the front/rear balance that I can tell, but I run pretty stiff springs just because I don’t like the way the camera moves up and down with softer springs, so that probably lessens the impact the sway bars could have. I know there are a lot of people on here that are a lot better then me at suspension settings.
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None of my cars have stability control, wings, or N2O. All are on racing mediums by default, have stiff springs and soft shocks. A few have tcs at 1 or have less then full power.
 
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