Well, the biggest disappointment was the suspension settings.
I actually set up a lot of autocross and road race cars in real life on a daily basis.
The settings don't run true to real life though.
I try to set my FR chassis cars up to throttle steer, obviously the best way to set up an FR.
I always brake in a straight line and throttle steer the car out of corners, so I know it's not the braking.
The brake controller is set to a point where the car stops the fastest with a slight tire squeal.
In this aspect,
Using the 2001 Mazda RX-7 Spirit for example, the car I primarily use for time trials in the game;
488 HP ( My friends and I usually race with a 500 HP cap), Original / Race Suspension, Medium Racing Tire on both front and rear, Limited slip full adjustable type @ 10 / 33 / 20, with ASM's at 5 / 5 / 2.
1. When I bumped up the rear spring rate to max, the shock bound and rebound to max, the rear stabilizer to max, and toed out the rear, the car actually UNDERSTEERED more than when the settings were set to default.
This is not what should happen in real life.
That would be an undrivably stiff rear.
With a rear THAT stiff in a FR chassis, the car should hit a bump and spin out for heaven's sake; One should be able to tap the gas and have the car spin out.
2. After doing this, I set the suspension settings back to default.
I then bumped the ASM settings around a little bit, such as putting the understeer correction up to 10 and having the oversteer correction at 0 with the same amount of traction control, and I had the car spinning out.
This is the disappointment. haha
None of my knowledge means anything in this game.
The suspension options should do more than the ASM correction options.
3. I shut the ASM corrections completely off. The car understeers heavily, even as I turn the suspension settings back to the same way I had them in the section 1 I listed. It truly doesn't make any sense.
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