Assetto Corsa PC Mods General DiscussionPC

[GzeroD]

@Shokeus

245/40 - 18 = Tyre width/aspect ratio(%) - rim bead seat diameter(inches)

Tyre diameter = tyre width*((2*aspect ratio(%)) + rim bead seat diameter.

Tyre diameter = (245mm*0.80) + (18*25.4mm)

Tyre diameter = 196mm + 457.2mm = 653.2mm

Tyre radius = 653.2mm/2 = 326.6mm = 0.3266m

I may have got my order of operations wrong?

 

[GzeroD]

if I use CM to have the desired values I have to break into the tyres.ini :

WIDTH=0.245
RADIUS=0.35
RIM_RADIUS=0.2413

and

WIDTH=0.305
RADIUS=0.38
RIM_RADIUS=0.2413

Is that all right?

First choose a tyre from a car with a similar weight and downforce and grip level to what you want. Copy the tyre.ini and the adjust width, radius and rim radius to match your car. Check the dependencies the tyre.ini calls and copy those also.

 

[mrgone]

Hi guys!, im new here. I want to make a question/petition if its posible...

I had a mod with two versions of the porsche 959 ("959 and 959s") from SimRacersPics forum, but i dont know why i was deleted accidentally. Now i cant find it for anywhere. I have another similary, but im searching that specifically.

Someone can share me the link? Ill be very greatful. Hope you can help me, youre mi last chance!

Thanks!

 

[GzeroD]

@Shokeus

That is, width is only important if you want the skid marks to match your car.
Radius must match your car or your car will not sit on the ground.
Rim Radius is only important if you want blown/flat tyres to look right.

 

[hal4000]

Update 1.5. Added #58 Gelo.

.https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/porsche-911-carrera-rsr-1970s-skin-pack.28448/

 

[Shokeus]

First choose a tyre from a car with a similar weight and downforce and grip level to what you want. Copy the tyre.ini and the adjust width, radius and rim radius to match your car. Check the dependencies the tyre.ini calls and copy those also.

thanks for your answers, unfortunately no car in assetto at the size I’m looking for : 245/40/R18 and 305/40R18

 

[BrandonW77]

Hey everbody - you might have remembered Bazza sharing a little preview of his new Touring car legends mod a little while ago - this post is related to that.

I'm Ted, Bazza's test driver for the TCL mod. I've been racing various cars since for the last 8 years. Mainly production based touring cars in the SCCA, as well as many years driving Legends cars. Currently I teach with the Audi Club, SCCA PDX's, and the racing school at Brainered International Raceway in Minnesota and have been doing so since 2015.

With that short intro out of the way I'd like to share with you some thinks I've been doing with Bazza for TCL - we've been utilizing my background as a performance driving instructor to make a series of quick driving guides for all 16 cars in the back, they're currently being released every-other day at 1900GMT+1, and are available to view on my Youtube channel at that same time every day. I also make lots of small, short guides for various vintage cars on a variety of circuits using mainly Assetto Corsa as the sim of choice.

Fair warning I'm 100% new to video editing/creative stuff, so I'm a very, very low quality YouTuber compared to many. But I like to think I can help people learn and love racing through my videos.

Here's one of the most recent TCL car guides for your viewing pleasure:

Nice! Thanks for sharing. I'm sure others here know, but where can we find the TCL cars to download and try for ourselves?

 

[ArchKyuubeey]

Hello all , I have a question about tyres :

245/645-18 = 245/40-18 ?

and

305/645-18 = 305/40-18 ?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In assetto corsa tyres.ini :

WIDTH=0.245
RADIUS=0.3225
RIM_RADIUS=0.2415

and

WIDTH=0.305
RADIUS=0.3225
RIM_RADIUS=0.2415

Thank !

Hey,

The fastest and most efficient way if you don't just have a sheet to convert it for you is:

http://www.cargister.com/calculator-race-tires

245/40-18 = 245/655-18

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

Result in mm = 653mm
0.653 / 2 = 0.3265

The radius is basically never *actually* what is indicated and can be actually very different, even 1 size different.

https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/length/inch-to-meter.html

18 inches = 0.4572
0.4572 / 2 = 0.2286, then add until you get your actual diameter. I believe this is purely for ground collisions. KS hints say to add 1 inch, and it will *generally* be close enough, but sometimes need more. 1 inch is 0.0254m.

WIDTH=0.245
RADIUS=0.3265
RIM_RADIUS=0.2540~

There's some calculations above which are *probably* right but I never found a need to be so anal. Main thing is to get your diameter right, as it affects physics. Not sure even width does anything to actual physics, as everything that width (And rim diameter) affect are separate values.

Hey everbody - you might have remembered Bazza sharing a little preview of his new Touring car legends mod a little while ago - this post is related to that.

I'm Ted, Bazza's test driver for the TCL mod. I've been racing various cars since for the last 8 years. Mainly production based touring cars in the SCCA, as well as many years driving Legends cars. Currently I teach with the Audi Club, SCCA PDX's, and the racing school at Brainered International Raceway in Minnesota and have been doing so since 2015.

With that short intro out of the way I'd like to share with you some thinks I've been doing with Bazza for TCL - we've been utilizing my background as a performance driving instructor to make a series of quick driving guides for all 16 cars in the back, they're currently being released every-other day at 1900GMT+1, and are available to view on my Youtube channel at that same time every day. I also make lots of small, short guides for various vintage cars on a variety of circuits using mainly Assetto Corsa as the sim of choice.

Fair warning I'm 100% new to video editing/creative stuff, so I'm a very, very low quality YouTuber compared to many. But I like to think I can help people learn and love racing through my videos.

Here's one of the most recent TCL car guides for your viewing pleasure:

Hey, I watched a few. Commentary is good, although I would perhaps increase the in-game volume slightly. Perhaps 1db or so, not a lot.

A few points I did notice:

You'd probably gain a lot of time if you were more careful on shifting and didn't blip/release the brake quite as much while blipping the throttle on downshifts. Although I know it can be incredibly hard on a sim setup with not so good brake and throttle feel. Doable but not perhaps immediately transferable.

Go and watch that old Senna NSXR onboard again and pay attention to the downshifts.



I also saw you "cheat" the car into the corner slightly some times: turning in before the actual turn-in point. Losing seconds of time there potentially in some cars.

A good example is here on 22 seconds.




There are indeed a lot of corners where you actually do want to aim deep and hit an early apex while carrying as much speed as possible, but if you look closely, you see that you're easing off the brake and momentarily "floating in place" on entry without using the full potential of the tire.

I believe the reason is likely that you're not paying attention to your brake release point: only to the apex. Which is not bad per-se because it means you're looking ahead. I'm sure you'd fix it in a few laps, but it's good to be more aware.

Try it and see how it works for you. And as always if someone disagrees, we can always go and drive together. Maybe you'll prove me wrong.

 

[ludo23]

thank you theBluem,I'll tested,cool

 

[Ted Hough]

Nice! Thanks for sharing. I'm sure others here know, but where can we find the TCL cars to download and try for ourselves?

I appreciate the passion for the mod - as the cars are all excellent - but Dr.Doomslab is still doing model adjustments/reworks for a lot of the cars and I cannot share it publicly at this time because it is not complete.

Hey, I watched a few. Commentary is good, although I would perhaps increase the in-game volume slightly. Perhaps 1db or so, not a lot.

A few points I did notice:

You'd probably gain a lot of time if you were more careful on shifting and didn't blip/release the brake quite as much while blipping the throttle on downshifts. Although I know it can be incredibly hard on a sim setup with not so good brake and throttle feel. Doable but not perhaps immediately transferable.

Go and watch that old Senna NSXR onboard again and pay attention to the downshifts.


I also saw you "cheat" the car into the corner slightly some times: turning in before the actual turn-in point. Losing seconds of time there potentially in some cars.

There are indeed a lot of corners where you actually do want to aim deep and hit an early apex while carrying as much speed as possible, but if you look closely, you see that you're easing off the brake and momentarily "floating in place" on entry without using the full potential of the tire.

I believe the reason is likely that you're not paying attention to your brake release point: only to the apex. Which is not bad per-se because it means you're looking ahead. I'm sure you'd fix it in a few laps, but it's good to be more aware.

Try it and see how it works for you. And as always if someone disagrees, we can always go and drive together. Maybe you'll prove me wrong.

Thank you for the feedback about the audio - all of the cars have different sound levels and so it's sometimes difficult to get the rendered narration audio and game audio balanced with clipping the ever living God out of one or two of the audio sources, which I'm trying to avoid.

A note about the driving: I'm using a stock G25 and un-modded pedals so I'm struggling a bit for pedal feel. Transferring my real life techniques to the sim has always been a struggle for me but I'm trying to work in it all the time. I also recorded the guides in a batch on my single day off from work in the week so I was incredibly rushed to get them out - I've found about 0.5-2.0 s/lap in most cars since recording the guides. (If the BOP/suspension modeling for the car didn't change)

Also just as an aside - I do instruct drivers for a living, so any criticism you could make of me I can assure you I've already agonized over for quite some time. So you might not want to waste the effort in the future.

 

[ArchKyuubeey]

Thank you for the feedback about the audio - all of the cars have different sound levels and so it's sometimes difficult to get the rendered narration audio and game audio balanced with clipping the ever living God out of one or two of the audio sources, which I'm trying to avoid.

A note about the driving: I'm using a stock G25 and un-modded pedals so I'm struggling a bit for pedal feel. Transferring my real life techniques to the sim has always been a struggle for me but I'm trying to work in it all the time. I also recorded the guides in a batch on my single day off from work in the week so I was incredibly rushed to get them out - I've found about 0.5-2.0 s/lap in most cars since recording the guides. (If the BOP/suspension modeling for the car didn't change)

Also just as an aside - I do instruct drivers for a living, so any criticism you could make of me I can assure you I've already agonized over for quite some time. So you might not want to waste the effort in the future.

My point about sound is mainly the tire noise. It's really useful when watching people drive: and it's a bit quiet there. Although super loud engine sound samples will drown out the tires sometimes, so I understand it can be a bit of an issue when going from car to car in cars of various quality.

Are you using any gamma? I feel around 2.5 is quite good for these sets of pedals. Much closer in initial application feel than it ever is at 1.0. I think Stefano suggested 2.4 himself. To me it feels more natural near the mid/high range, and I can modulate the low end naturally as well. It *feels* linear to me.

Yes, like I said, don't get me wrong. First laps are first laps. Anyone good will knock off a second at the very least on their next ones.

I'm mainly posting it for *other* people who might not have it down, or even be aware they might be doing it themselves! You see, generally when beginners see an "authority figure" like an instructor or a racing driver driving, they see it as an absolute or something.

It's nice to hear professionals' opinions as well. What do you think about my point relating to steering in early into the hairpin? I haven't lapped Brands that much but I swear in some cars it's faster to just beeline it straight to apex, even earlier than you turned in. Provided you brake late enough to actually gain time from it. My reasoning is that you're turning in to a traction limited slow corner without a significant straight after it.

 

[Ted Hough]

My point about sound is mainly the tire noise. It's really useful when watching people drive: and it's a bit quiet there. Although super loud engine sound samples will drown out the tires sometimes, so I understand it can be a bit of an issue when going from car to car in cars of various quality.

Are you using any gamma? I feel around 2.5 is quite good for these sets of pedals. Much closer in initial application feel than it ever is at 1.0. I think Stefano suggested 2.4 himself. To me it feels more natural near the mid/high range, and I can modulate the low end naturally as well. It *feels* linear to me.

Yes, like I said, don't get me wrong. First laps are first laps. Anyone good will knock off a second at the very least on their next ones.

I'm mainly posting it for *other* people who might not have it down, or even be aware they might be doing it themselves! You see, generally when beginners see an "authority figure" like an instructor or a racing driver driving, they see it as an absolute or something.

It's nice to hear professionals' opinions as well. What do you think about my point relating to steering in early into the hairpin? I haven't lapped Brands that much but I swear in some cars it's faster to just beeline it straight to apex, even earlier than you turned in. Provided you brake late enough to actually gain time from it. My reasoning is that you're turning in to a traction limited slow corner without a significant straight after it.

It depends on the car. Generally the 2002 doesn't over-steer or rotate under weight transfer as aggressively/strongly as many of the other cars in the pack and it's more steering wheel driven. This results in the front tires often losing grip first - which turning in early and trail braking/threshold late braking tends to provoke massively.

The way to correct understeer is to brake more gently and turn in later at a steeper angle so less of the corner is spent at maximum steering lock. Turning in too early typically results in understeer or a sub-optimal exit speed. If that's what you're asking? If anything I would probably turn in later than I did in that video, you might see it in the other guides when I'm driving heavier cars with less grip than the BMW.


Another option could be to "Diamond" the corner - that is turn in early, understeer wide, cut back in at a steep angle and get on the throttle in a straight line. This is technically incorrect but viable in a lot of RWD cars. For example I do it in the Lotus 49 at Brands often because the car twitches massively and loses far too much rear grip if you turn in on a more typical hairpin line.

Also the point of the guide lap is to drive the car *under* the limit but technically on all the correct lines. I don't push to find time on my circuit guide laps. This is one of the first things you're taught as an instructor. You never drive as fast as you *can* around students because it either intimidates them or instills false confidence.

 

[safi hellie]

Regards the FFB settings. I run a Thrustmaster TX.
They say that TX is at 75 gain in control panel for safety of the wheel motors.
But it's BS IMO as for example if you run TX wheel at 100 in CT and set gain in AC to 0, you feel NOTHING.
So to me i figured so long as the gain in the game is set so not to clip then the wheel will be safe.

For example you could set the TX wheel at 25 but run AC at maximum gain and it will clip therefore that is worse than running it at 100 with 75 gain in AC....

AC for me is at 75 gain and wheel at 100 gain...it used to be 100 in AC and 75 on wheel...

 

[EvilGloomy]

Expert tip in sim racing, try to drive slow first before trying to drive fast. Slow down your physical movements, such as shifting, throttle, steering. From my experience, most ppl try to react faster on a sim and hope to be faster, like banging gears, flooring the throttle, late braking etc.... This isn't a video game. Drive the sim with movements like how you would drive a car in real life and let your muscle memory adapt. Pedal feel, FFB has nothing to do with the way you try driving realistically. Set an AI car in front at lower difficulty and try to maintain its pace without hitting it. Gradually increase difficulty as time goes on.

 

[TonySSS]

I bought this Alfa Romeo 4C Gr.3/GT3 converted from SPORT by an Italian modder I heard about in a Facebook post for €4, but sadly its skin looks messed up because he modified it like those URD/RSS/VRC cars:

Is someone of you here capable of reskinning it like the original one from that game and perhaps create a template for it too? Would love to make an itasha skin for it honestly. Here's the car I posted on my Drive:

 

[hal4000]

Why don't you ask the author for a template? I mean, if the dam thing costs 4 Euros, I'm sure he'll be throwing in some quality templates. Like RSS and VRC do.
Oh wait, it's a conversion....., right.

 

[WRHernand]

1931 Bentley Blower

Hi guys, who likes to drive the historic cars,this is a very good converted car and fun to drive !

View attachment 849553 View attachment 849554 View attachment 849555 View attachment 849556

This is awesome..
Anyone knows of other mods like this one to make a class championship of them?

 

[ArchKyuubeey]

Expert tip in sim racing, try to drive slow first before trying to drive fast. Slow down your physical movements, such as shifting, throttle, steering. From my experience, most ppl try to react faster on a sim and hope to be faster, like banging gears, flooring the throttle, late braking etc.... This isn't a video game. Drive the sim with movements like how you would drive a car in real life and let your muscle memory adapt. Pedal feel, FFB has nothing to do with the way you try driving realistically. Set an AI car in front at lower difficulty and try to maintain its pace without hitting it. Gradually increase difficulty as time goes on.

I agree with this. Although I feel a lot of beginners don't really understand *why* you should do this. I know when I started out, it just felt like trying to go fast is faster, and indeed when I tried to drive very smooth I was going slower. Probably a lot of new sim drivers experience this. I'll try to give some context.

Everyone I've ever taught (in sims) generally turned in too soon, got on the gas too soon and didn't let the car take a set. Indeed they were often driving slightly under, then over, then under what they felt to be the limit with the car always sliding. The limit they created for themselves however was very low due to the constant changing of tire loading and car attitude.

The first common factor is that all of them felt like they had to turn the wheel in faster: to get to the limit sooner. They weren't used to the car not constantly sliding at what they felt to be their limit, so they'd try to get it there via wheel or pedal application. The second common factor is that all of them released the brake too soon: because they entered too slow and had to decrease braking to be able to apex.

I believe the goal in instructing people to drive correctly while driving *very* slowly is because you're unable to make the corner if you try to overdrive the car at such a speed. The steering wheel primarily controls the car at such a low speed that you're forced to have more or less good steering technique in order to make a smooth arc and apex. You should be able to also """threshold brake""" with constant pressure, turn in at the correct turn in point and trail off the brake even at such a low speed, without needing to touch the throttle to speed up the car.

I really suggest newbies to just do this. Drive at 50% pace and focus on smooth constant brake, smooth trailing off while winding in steering very smoothly, then smooth acceleration at apex while winding out steering. It might feel a bit ridiculous because you're going so slow and below your comfort zone, but trust me. You can start to carry more and more speed into the corner, speeding up the tempo of the actions that you drilled while going very slowly. You'll unlock a whole new world of controlling the entry speed and attitude of the car.

If I was any good at voiceover, I'd perhaps even make a short video of this myself. I also remember struggling a lot with learning braking drift in rFactor years ago myself, due to this steering and brake tempo issue. I think both things could honestly be nailed down in perhaps a 3 minute video or so.

That's just my experience though. I'm not an instructor nor can I prove why you should listen to me and not to Mr Deap but in the past I've been roughly fast enough to qualify on the low, low-mid field with the highest level of simracers in the world, so I at least somewhat know how to drive.

 

[Apexxer]

Delete

 

[Ted Hough]

Here is my first offical (properly) made skin. What do you all think? Would you deem it releasable content?

It looks simple, but clean! Really nicely done! Very similar to the simple liveries a lot of the local racers around where I'm based out of run - so it has that benefit of being immersive/believable too!

 

[Wusel]

Here is my first offical (properly) made skin. What do you all think? Would you deem it releasable content?

not my type of car but the skin looks very authentic! Great work

 

[Apexxer]

Delete

 

[Beezer215]

On the category on the right side where it defines cars by "Types", is that value defined in ui_car.json under class?
What value is this to modify?

 

[hal4000]

What do you all think?

Nice job for the first one. Indeed rotate the utoob/gopro logos a couple of degrees clockwise. Will look better.

 

[kondor999]

Is anyone else amused/shocked to see ArchKyuubeey giving a real pro driver tips on how to drive?

"I believe the reason is likely that you're not paying attention to your brake release point: only to the apex. Which is not bad per-se because it means you're looking ahead. I'm sure you'd fix it in a few laps, but it's good to be more aware. "

If Ted were over in, say, a real BMW E30 or E21 owners forum, they'd be all over him asking him for tips on how to drive.

Ted, you are too damn modest. I've seen your competition history:

2011 MN State US Legends cars "Bandelero" Champion
2012 MN State Legends Asphalt Oval "Young Lions" 2nd place
2013 MN State Legends Asphalt Oval "Semi Pro" 4th place, 4th in Dirt National Championship race
2014 MN State Legends Asphalt Oval Semi-Pro 2nd place, SCCA Competition Road Racing license acquired, MN State Road Course Legends car Champion.
2015 MN State Dirt Oval Semi-Pro 3rd place in Slinger Superspeedway $10,000 Purse invitational, Pro debut in Blancpain World Challenge at Miller Motorsports Park/UMC Round (7th in class, fastest lap)
2016 Full year competition in Blancpain Challenge US B-Spec Touring car division, 1 win, 3 poles, 3 fastest laps, 4th in class championship.
2017-Current: Instructor for Audi Club North America Glacier Lakes Chapter, SCCA Track Night In America Program, Brainered International Raceway Performance Driving School instructor, ongoing restoration of a Porsche 944 for amateur racing (to stay fresh).

Can I just say I'm really impressed with your level of self-control? I'm just a has-been SCCA D-prod driver who had a single test with Roush and even I have a hard time listening to this guys "advice" on how to drive lol.

Wow, just...Wow.

 

[ArchKyuubeey]

kondor, I'm not sure you understood the purpose of my post. I think I did explain it in the further reply as well. Perhaps if you re-read them it'll be clearer. No disrespect was meant, and I think I did give some context to the *reasons* for the honestly minor technique mistake which I spotted. The early turn-in could very well be intentional and I'm just perceiving it wrong, hence my continued conversation.

Oh well, my apologies. I didn't know that successful and established professionals are someone you shouldn't attempt to have a constructive discussion with. Hell, the best thing would be if I actually was wrong and Ted dumped a bunch of free high level info on us.

 

[Ted Hough]

Gentlemen I'm not even remotely offended or concerned by any criticisms leveled my way.

I'm only 21 years old and by no means a complete driver, and I really don't want people to feel like they can't let me know if/when I'm making a mistake or wrong about something. Lets keep it civil and just appreciate the mod previews/driving guides as they come out! Next one to release in about 12-16 hours if my math is correct, I'll share that one then too.

Lets just keep it chill and enjoy the mod and driving talk as much as we can. No hard feelings ever! And if anybody has questions, comments, criticisms, complements etc. that they're not comfortable sharing please DM me here or on Youtube. I might not be able to respond right away but I always try to make time to discuss anything racing/car related with others.

 

[kondor999]

kondor, I'm not sure you understood the purpose of my post. I think I did explain it in the further reply as well. Perhaps if you re-read them it'll be clearer. No disrespect was meant, and I think I did give some context to the *reasons* for the honestly minor technique mistake which I spotted. The early turn-in could very well be intentional and I'm just perceiving it wrong, hence my continued conversation.

Oh well, my apologies. I didn't know that successful and established professionals are someone you shouldn't attempt to have a constructive discussion with. Hell, the best thing would be if I actually was wrong and Ted dumped a bunch of free high level info on us.

Then I stand corrected. It sure seemed like you were giving the guy advice on how to take a corner!

My mistake.

I hope one of these days you'll make it out to a real track. I think you'll find that AC doesn't always teach quite the right lessons in terms of technique, mainly due to the physics issues I've mentioned previously. Doing so would, I think, help you refine your mod physics to make them correlate better with how a car really reacts under a variety of situations.

Thanks for keeping it civil. It's just a voyage of discovery, I hope.

 

[GzeroD]

thanks for your answers, unfortunately no car in assetto at the size I’m looking for : 245/40/R18 and 305/40R18

Slight misunderstanding. The main point is to choose a car with similar weight, downforce and grip. The size is not important as you can change that in the .ini.
Choosing a car like this will mean the tyre will be worked the same, and heating and wear will be similar.

You can check all the sizes using Content Manager. CM Showroom\car params(tab)\Physics\(tick)Wheels

Cheers

 

[ArchKyuubeey]

Then I stand corrected. It sure seemed like you were giving the guy advice on how to take a corner!

My mistake.

I hope one of these days you'll make it out to a real track. I think you'll find that AC doesn't always teach quite the right lessons in terms of technique, mainly due to the physics issues I've mentioned previously. Doing so would, I think, help you refine your mod physics to make them correlate better with how a car really reacts under a variety of situations.

Thanks for keeping it civil. It's just a voyage of discovery, I hope.

Alright, if you're going to be cheeky about it and operate under the assumption that I don't know anything what I'm talking about, how about we forget me for a moment and quote Ross Bentley? Surely he has enough track experience and his authority should convince you.


Ultimate Speed Secrets, mine is a hardcopy but I assume all are identical, Page 216 under Section 30 "Managing Errors." I found some Google Previews, but sadly page 216 is omitted, so you'll have to take my word for this one. Or just open your own copy. It's the text in the top left.

"ILLUSTRATION 30-5 A common error that many drivers make is "crabbing" into the corner, easing the car away from the edge of the track prior to turning in. That's cheating, and it's going to cost you. Be aware if your car is right against the track edge at your turn-in point."

This is what I thought of when I saw that section which I commented on. Later I started a conversation with the assumption "Perhaps it was intentional?".

More of a real-life example: but what if the outside is dusty or filled with water?