Bass Ackwards braking works!

  • Thread starter JaeTea
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Insist on contradicting you? Are you God?

If you don't agree with what I have to say, that's fine. I don't mind that you have a different style of drifting, but a lot of people on this site like to advocate one style, a style which I happen to disagree with, so I'm advocating "my" style.

My goal in sharing this is simply to make people aware that there are other ways of getting from point A to point B. I remember when I first started lurking here, everyone used sim tires and I used sports on a low powered 86. From that experience, when I switched to sim for more angle, I was that much more adept at car control.

*edit* jinkies
 
Read your thingy, here's my reply.

"If you have a 'driving style', you are not achieving the fastest lap time possible."

This is simply not true. Even in F1 there are large differences between drivers braking and accelerating points, which result in different times. Rally is another good example of this, so is autoX. Let me give you a clearer example; in autoX some drivers are strict users of left foot braking and others strictly avoid left foot braking, yet both styles can lead to a championship. Some autoX drivers may be able to heal toe like it's second nature and still be losing to someone who can't heal toe to save their life. Tsuchiya is another example, in his early years of racing he actually drifted using the ideal line and won - where all logic dictates that someone that is grip driving should be faster. Apparently style does count for something. I mean, would racing even been interesting if there was a perfect way of driving or a perfect way of setting up a car?

"Drifting has no rules, which leaves alot of room for diversity."

I'll agree that drifting does have a bit more room for diversity (style). But it's actually more structured than you think.

Solo Drifting (D1 qualifying) Judges the following in order of importance:
-Speed (Entrance and Cornering)
-Angle
-Line (not a racing line, but a line that allows for maximum angle)

Tandem Drifting (D1 Elimination) Judges the following in order of importance:
-Speed (Most important now, because you need to keep up or try to create a gap between your partner)
-Angle (This is now greatly sacrificed to maintain speed and line)
-Line (Now a racing line trying for maximum speed)
 
d3p0
Let me clarify, if you bias towards the rear, _less_ weight will be transfered to the front. The e-brake is a perfect example of this; if you only apply the rear brakes the rear end will squat - less weight up front equals less grip up front. Now, if you lock the rear brakes, then your rear grip is effectively gone, causing oversteer.

And, you're right, stock FF/FR cars do 70% or more braking in the front which is why I advocate setting your car up like that in the game. MR/RR cars have a greater bias towards the rear but are still designed to lock the fronts first, for safety reasons. However, because there is a greater load in the rear, you will get better braking performance with MR/RR cars if you move your bias towards the rear.

i would thoroughly enjoy watching a car squat in the rear under braking. you find me an example and i'll pay you a million dollars (no, the car can't be moving in reverse). unless the car had some kind of ridiculous weight distribution (~20/80), front bias is always favorable for maximum braking. even if a car did have some kind of ridiculous weight distribution toward the rear, it still would not squat under braking since weight would still move toward the front of the car. however, i am talking about maximum braking force, which isn't necessarily what you all are looking to do. for drifting, having a higher than normal bias toward the rear will help initiate oversteer. so do what you will guys.
 
Drift2nv
some of you guys are nubs ...



how would setting bias to the rear make braking more stable?? have you ever tried driving you car and only using the e-brake? not to stable then eh?, bias only set on either the front or the rear either way will make it unstable ... for the front under braking since only the "front" is braking the rear is more likely to come around on you then taking on the weight transition and bias set to the rear well thats obvious it will work like a e-brake and bring the ass end around on you ..
ive found all of the cars drift just fine with even settings front and rear maybe you guys should just learn how to control the cars yea?

Try it in GT4, THEN talk. I don't care about theories or real life, this discussion is about GT4 the GAME. In the GAME braking bias toward the rear will cause understeer. The car will just plow forward. But if you bias the brakes to the front (provided your tire has enough grip) it will oversteer on the slightest input. Also, try e-brake in GT4 see if you would swing the ass around like you said, it won't. That's just the way the GAME is!

BTW, I did it in a 91 Skyline GT-R n1 if you want to test this yourself.
91 Nissan Skyline GT-R N1
Brake Balance f20/r12
spring rate f6/r9
ride height f100/r100
shocks f5/r5
camber f4.0/r0.0
Toe f-1/r3
stabilizers f1/r7
asm oversteer = 0
asm understeer = 0
tcs = 2
down force f10/r5
LSD f5/20/10
LSD r10/40/20
Trans set
Auto set at 10
VCD 10
Weight Balance 10/50

Now try brake balance 12/20 and tell me you don't get more understeer entering the corner and harder to initiate drifts.
 
i would thoroughly enjoy watching a car squat in the rear under braking. you find me an example and i'll pay you a million dollars (no, the car can't be moving in reverse). unless the car had some kind of ridiculous weight distribution (~20/80), front bias is always favorable for maximum braking. even if a car did have some kind of ridiculous weight distribution toward the rear, it still would not squat under braking since weight would still move toward the front of the car. however, i am talking about maximum braking force, which isn't necessarily what you all are looking to do. for drifting, having a higher than normal bias toward the rear will help initiate oversteer. so do what you will guys.

Get in a car, drive 20mph and start slowly pulling the ebrake. Instead of the front diving, the rear will squat. Therefore, it stands to reason that the more you bias the brakes to the rear, the less weight will be transfered to the front.

I agree with you that ideal braking happens mostly up front (less so in MR/RR).
 
d3p0
Read your thingy, here's my reply.

"If you have a 'driving style', you are not achieving the fastest lap time possible."

This is simply not true...

This arguement has been going on on these forums since I initially joined like two years ago. Let's just leave it to personal opinion.

d3p0
Apparently style does count for something. I mean, would racing even been interesting if there was a perfect way of driving or a perfect way of setting up a car?

Yes.

It's that endless strive for perfection that makes it so interesting.


d3p0
"Drifting has no rules, which leaves alot of room for diversity."

I'll agree that drifting does have a bit more room for diversity (style). But it's actually more structured than you think.

Solo Drifting (D1 qualifying) Judges the following in order of importance:
-Speed (Entrance and Cornering)
-Angle
-Line (not a racing line, but a line that allows for maximum angle)

Tandem Drifting (D1 Elimination) Judges the following in order of importance:
-Speed (Most important now, because you need to keep up or try to create a gap between your partner)
-Angle (This is now greatly sacrificed to maintain speed and line)
-Line (Now a racing line trying for maximum speed)

That would be D1GP.

D1 does not define drifting as a whole.

What I said was like, "fighting has no rules".

Although people abide by certain voluntary rules and form competitions based around it, it's still just one of those pointless things that you can't really define as a sport with universally accepted rules.

It's just an art.

A pass-time.

A hole into which you pour money.

A skill that sets you apart from every other piece of human waste and makes you quasi-unique.

A skill that is savoured when witnessed.


But yeah, sorry.
I'm getting a wittle gwumpy.
I should probably take a nap :indiff:

19h 41m and counting..


BTW
Welcome to GTP d3p0. :sly: 👍
Your knowledge will be appreciated by all who seek it.
Dark side for life :cool:
 
Okay, we won't argue about how one should drive (or how one should pole vault). But out of curiousity, can you contradict any of my examples?

As for D1; Since you didn't know, those rules _are_ universal. Every feeder series for D1 and all of the other series' (American and worldwide) play by the same rules. I agree that there are other styles of drifting (gymkhana drifting, mountain drifting, line blocking, etc.), but if your goal is to be the best at 'the sport of drifting', you should look to D1.

Thanks for the interestingly timed welcoming :)
 
d3p0
..out of curiousity, can you contradict any of my examples?

Maybe.

But I would rather end our kung-fu battle in a friendly draw.

I am more interested in reading your opinions and answers on other threads.

If that's ok?
 
awdrifter2
tell me you don't get more understeer entering the corner and harder to initiate drifts.

I get more understeer with the front brakes set high. The car just straigtens itself and plows forward, turn in is almost impossible, even at low speeds. :confused:
 
d3p0
OT: What cars have you enjoyed butt swining with in GT4?

IS200 (RS200), MX-5 Miata RS (Roadster RS), MR-S, FD RS-R, Bathurst R, AE86, M3, S2k..

To name a few.

Mostly stock. N1's, N2's, S2's...

Thinking of buying an NSX-R.

That would drift well.


JaeTea
I get more understeer with the front brakes set high. The car just straigtens itself and plows forward, turn in is almost impossible, even at low speeds. :confused:

That's what I've been saying, GOSH!

sq_coat_and_tie.jpg


*siiiighhh*

You figure it out..

I'm going to bed.. or something.
 
d3... if the back end of the car squats at all, its still accelerating... PERIOD.

The laws of physics REQUIRE that if the car is slowing down, weight WILL move to the front. This isn't something new, and nothing tricky. Is freaky law of physics.

Thus, if you slow the car down, even if just slowing the rear wheels, weight WILL still be moved forward. There is no argument against it, as it is a law of physics. IT IS FACT.
 
I thought I clarified my previous post. Yes[b/],the front suspension will be loaded, but to a lesser extent. If you think it's impossible for the rear to squat with the hand brake I suggest you get in a car and try it. The hand brake experiment is just an example to prove a point which you should agree with, which is; brake biasing effects weight transfer during braking.
 
JaeTea
I get more understeer with the front brakes set high. The car just straigtens itself and plows forward, turn in is almost impossible, even at low speeds. :confused:

Are you serious? I tried it on my Skyline and it's just the opposite. Oh well, I guess just reverse my brake settins if it doesn't work for you. BTW, I'm doing this on R3 tires. Are you using street or race itres? That may make a difference cuz the street tires lose grip sooner.

Here's a pic of me drifting on Laguna Seca using front biased brakes, it's really easy to initiate a drift for me.

img01578jv.jpg

img01594az.jpg
 
Sadly, as nice as those pics seem, Pictures really can't prove much in the world of automotive sport.
 
Braking bias will affect weight transfer ONLY if it affects the rate of decelleration.

It does not matter whether the front wheels are slowing the car, or the rear. If either slow the car at rate x, then the weight transfer (z) will be x*y. So, weight transfer is like so...

z = x * y, z = weight transfer; x = braking power; y = fixed value of weight moved by x stoping power.

Typically, a rear bias will make it so x is less... so the equation would shift like so

z = (x - q) * y, where q = variable based on brake bias.

The reason why suspension loads would be different is because the car simply is not slowing down as quickly.
 
Azuremen
Braking bias will affect weight transfer ONLY if it affects the rate of decelleration.

It does not matter whether the front wheels are slowing the car, or the rear. If either slow the car at rate x, then the weight transfer (z) will be x*y. So, weight transfer is like so...

z = x * y, z = weight transfer; x = braking power; y = fixed value of weight moved by x stoping power.

Typically, a rear bias will make it so x is less... so the equation would shift like so

z = (x - q) * y, where q = variable based on brake bias.

The reason why suspension loads would be different is because the car simply is not slowing down as quickly.

heh, nice Azuremen, the nerd in me is just itching to get out
if you want to pick up the technicality we can bring in the momentum equation and Newtons first and second laws of motion. though, this is still very 'high school' physics, it should demonstrate what going on with reasonable accuracy.

First Law: "an object in motion remains in motion unless acted on by an external force"

Second Law: the rate of acceleration of an object is equal to the force applied, divided by the object's mass
a = F/m

in this case the vehicles deceleration is equal to the braking force (a negative force since it resists forward motion) divided by the vehicle mass

Momentum Equation:
M = mV <-- momentum = (mass)(velocity)
to solve this accurately over the braking period would require a little calculus (which does not translate well over the internet) since velocity will be changing constantly due to negative acceleration.

none the less, if forward velocity is assumed positive, (and since mass is never negative) then momentum at any point in time where the car is in forward motion will also be positive. This means that applying a decelerative effect, the car will want to continue moving in a positive direction. Since we arent running on solid suspension, this give the sprung weight of the vehicle a tendency to roll forwards.

The only time you will get weight transfer to the rear due to braking, is if you have negative momentum. Ie) you must be travelling in reverse.

braking bias does not determine weight transfer, braking force does. Brake bias only serves as a means of determining the distribution of the braking force to the tires. This is all.

think about it for just a second. If you have a box of kleen-x resting on the back seat of your car and you pull the e-brake, doesnt it slide forward?
i think it does.
it wil only partially hop back after you have come to a complete stop and the vehicle returns to a neutral loading state

the reason that the weight transfer feels less pronounced (or is less pronounced, I should say) with the e-brake is because the braking force is not as strong. You are only using half the vehicles equipped brakes to bring it to a stop, and whats more, the rear tires are sliding throughout this braking - which is less efficient than if they were not. The deceleration from a given velocity to a lesser velocity takes longer with the e-brake, therefore the change in momentum over time is less, resulting in less tranferred weight.

The reason greater deceleration is realized (on most cars) with greater front distribution is because weight will naturally be loaded over the front tires during deceleration, thus increasing grip. If you experience understeer during the braking process it is because too much deceleration is being demanded of the front tires. They become overstressed and slip - steering acts as an additional stress on the front tires.

Moving the bias to the rear demands more of the deceleration to be generated by the rear tires. During deceleration, weight is transferred forward (as mentioned), so rear grip will already be disadvantaged (relative to a neutral loading scenario). With less grip available, braking force induces slip in the rear tires with relative ease. Couple this with some steering input (which you can now do since the front tires are responsible for less braking, leaving more grip available for turning), and the lateral forces induced break the lateral adhesion of the rear tires. TADA, we have oversteer. On a sidenote - this is the basis for a brake induced drift

the exact amount of weight transferred, and the required braking force to induce a state of slip in the rear tires is dependent upon several variables. Those within our control do not exclude vehicle mass, suspension settings, and tire compounds. So you may have to perfect these settings before attacking your brake bias. Elevation changes within the braking zones of the course you are running should also be brought into consideration.

end of story

for the record, this is exactly what i said way back in post #6, just expanded by about 200x

edit: perhaps not end of story

also for the record, it is possible to initiate slip at turn in with greater front brake bias. However, the car setup is trickier. The front must have enough avalaible grip to both brake and turn into the corner without initiating any understeer. If enough weight can be transferred forward without over stressing the front tires, then the rear tires may still break free under lateral loading.

This may be what you experienced with the skyline awdrifter2, especially with the stickier rubber.
It is entirely possible, but for many cars it is not probable.
 
MdnIte
Sadly, as nice as those pics seem, Pictures really can't prove much in the world of automotive sport.

I'm not trying to prove anything in motor sport, I'm only trying to support my opion of tuning in the game. (I don't have a digital camara, so I can't upload videos. But I didn't spin out during those drifts) I think you all are too focused on what would happen in real life, this is a game, no matter what Sony claims, it's just a racing game, so it WILL differ from real life. Some real life theories will not work in the game. I think we should just discuss how it is in the game and how do we make a car to handle a certain way instead of wasting time trying to understand why it isn't like real life.
 
Thank you very much Tank... made what I was saying quite clear...

Setup for a front bias is not as key as moderation of steering and brake inputs... more control is required over them...
 
What Tank said..


Some of the information stated on these forums practiced in real life could teach Joe Schmoe how to become a frickin' world class driver in a motorsports style of his choosing.

To think that all these 'spare time essays' are written for the sake of a single game.

That's so cool :sly: :cool:


Just, someone, please, put an end to this horribly misread thread.
 
Yes, between the three of us... I think we nuked our brains on it... now if only I could put this much effort into some of my homework.

But yeah, this thread is off topic kindaish now :)
 
OT:

You shouldn't put Maltesers in your pocket and forget about them, then eat the melted blob in a vain effort to clean up. Unless you like picking pocket lint out of your teeth.

I can't believe how disgusting that was..

:yuck:
 
To sum it up..

Fact: In GT4, it is very important to modulate brake and steering inputs when braking or trail braking so as not to lock the brakes or understeer.

Fact: Because of this, setting the rear brake bias higher than the front will allow you to be less sensitive when applying the brakes in both situations.

Fact: Oppositely, setting the bias towards the front will require that much more sensitivity and control.

Fact: FF/FR Cars will stop faster with a front bias.

Fact: Slurp and I don't agree on how bias effects mid drift control.

My suggestion: Don't equip a BBC, instead learn how to modulate your inputs with the normal setting. Then later, experiment with
 
Slurp I just have one disagreement.

Slurp
I'm not talking about slowing the rotation of the tires.

I'm talking about slowing the rotation of the car if you oversteer too much.


Heavy bias in the front will result in increasing the severity of oversteer.

Biasing towards the rear will give you the ability to control oversteer.


I know my last post seemed a bit contradictory, but I didn't know how to explain it better.

If you are truely drifting the back end will not have any traction for you to brake with, so a bias to the rear will not do any good because the front will still catch braking causing more oversteer. The only way to reduce angle is to increase countersteer or to decrease throttle. As some one stated bias drifting is a crutch but I do find it acceptable on AWD cars.
 
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