Beginner & Professional Events

  • Thread starter daan
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Well, even though our AI pit strategies are different, I did win both those races. Switching to R2 from R1 made a bigger difference than I expected. Using those, I won Tokyo by a good margin over three group C cars (lineup 12, I think) that all pitted, although I could run laps within 3 seconds of them even when their tires were warm. On Super Speedway, I used the 787B against the Group C lineup (#6) on R1 tires, wallrode both corners, and was pleasantly surprised to discover that the AI 787 pitted two laps from the end. I was in his draft about .1 seconds behind him for many laps, and half expected to lose a close race. Thankfully I won by 20 seconds instead! So those were easy, just needed to try a different strategy. Now those classic car races may be a different story... lineup hunting 👎 :grumpy:

I understand this was some time ago for you, so I don't expect you to remember all the details! I will probably only ask for help in this subforum when the information I need is buried in the old thread. Otherwise, I prefer looking in the relevant thread over being ridiculed when I ask something with an answer that's easy to find, as I see many people have done. I appreciate you still being active and prepared to help when your own interest in it is largely behind you!
 
For: Beginner Hall / FF Challenge / All Races
Driving: Daihatsu Copen Active Top (<100 miles), S2, Rac Muff, Chip, Rac Fly, Nitrous ~75, Aids 664 (72 hp)
Lineups: Various, almost all offer 200 points with the mods above...

Lots of blocking, and some bumper bashing. You might be able to add more power (oil change or something) without adding ballast. Let me know if more info is needed or if videos need to be seen...

Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazzard
 
NTSC/USA, PlayStation2, DualShock2, Manual
For: Professional Events / Tuning Car Grand Prix / All Races
Driving: Renault Clio Renault Sport V6 Phase 2 '03
Mods: R3/R3, Oil Change, Rac Muff, Chip, NA1 (322 SettingsHP), Nitrious @ 15-20, 0 Ballast, Aids @ 000

Lineup (#6 ?):
Spoon S2000 '00
Mazda BP FALKEN RX-7 (D1GP) '03
RUF CTR2 '96
HPA Motorsports Stage III R32 '04
RUF RGT '00

Power can be added with this lineup without changing the point total. I won the first 3 races with 127 Ballast @ 0, and wondered why I was having a harder time than usual at beating the field. It wasn't until the 4th race (El Capitan) when I finally discovered why.

Almost all other lineups included the Opera S2000, which I found hard to beat. I think there's a lineup without it that shows up sooner, but this lineup is the one where I had my first successful 200 point sweep. The Pan-Euro is next...

For those who aren't familiar with my style of GamePlay, I'm a no-holds-barred kinda guy, so lawnmowing and wallriding are encouraged! These and many other "dirty" tactics were employed.

Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazard
 
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NTSC/USA, PlayStation2, DualShock2, Manual

Driving: BMW 120i '04
Mods: Nitro
Settings: S2/S2, Nitrous @ default, Aids 000, 0 Ballast

Beginner Events / FR Challenge / All Races
Lineup: varies

Power may be added (or weight lost) and this car can still win 200 pointers (with potential adjustments to Ballast). Dirty driving may be needed for some races, but not all of them, and not always.

Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazard
 
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More 200 pointers in the SKYLINE Sport Coupe (BLRA-3) '62...

Beginner Events / FR Challenge / All Races / All Lineups (first 5, any order (NTSC/USA))

BLRA (1260 miles, Oil Change @ 1167 miles) + Turbo 2 + Racing Muffler (169 Settings HP, soon to wear down) + Nitrous
FC Tranny, 3ple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, Carbon Driveshaft, FC LSD, Sports Suspension.

S2/S2, (169 SettingsHP) Nitrous @ 100, 133/133 Rd Ht, 6/6 Shocks, 1.0/0.5 Camber, Auto 7, Aids 000, 15/60/20 LSD, 0 Ballast

I ran the 1000 miles! and World Classic events, changed the oil, then ran in the Red Emblem races before I started testing for these events. No extra mods are needed after winning those events (all for 200 pointers). If the Racing Chip is added, the A-spec offering drops to 198. I hate ballast, so I took the chip off instead.

This car will KILL THE COMPETITION, for this event, and the next one below...


Professional Events / Clubman Cup / All Races / All Lineups (first 5, any order(NTSC/USA))

Same settings/mods as above, except the SettingsHP starts to decline with mileage. This car is an absolute dream!!!

These races can be won cleanly for easy 200 point wins. Actually, Clubman/Apricot Hill vs the Elise 111R took me 2 tries... Other than that, no worries!

Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazard
 
NTSC/USA, PlayStation2, DualShock2, Manual

For: Beginner Events / MR Challenge / All Races
Lineups vary, and I'll have more details when I do it "for real". Avoid lineups that include other Elises.

Driving: Lotus Elise '00 (brand new, < 50 miles, no oil)
S2/S2, Sports Suspension, FC Tranny, 3ple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, Nitrous, Ballast varies.

Beginner Course and Fuji 90s are trivial. Others can be won with large margins, whether driving cleanly or not.

More details to follow (eventually, it might be a while before I actually race this event "for real")...

(EDIT)
After completing this event for my other gamesave, here's the run-down for each race, and the lineup/settings. I started this event with New York, and went left-to-right for the remaining races...

The Drivetrain and Suspension mods aren't necessary for this event (I need them for the Elise Trophy anyway), but I'm pretty sure the Nitrous is. Fuji's and New York's long straights make catching up to the NSX very difficult without it, but maybe others can do it. Since I'm running this car in an enduro or two, I went with S1 tires instead of S2s.

This car (with the mods/settings below) will absolutely kill the competition for 200 pointers...

(NTSC/USA)
S1/S1; 122 SettingsHP (0.0 miles); Nitrous @ 50 (default); RideHt Min/Min, Shocks 6/5, Camber 1.0/0.5; 3ple Clutch; Racing Flywheel; Aids 000; Ballast listed with lineups...

@ New York vs Lineup #1
1 Honda NSX Type S Zero '97
2 Lotus Esprit Turbo HC '87
3 Honda NSX Type R '02
4 ASL Garaiya '02
5 Toyota MR2 GT-S '97
-- 17 Ballast

@ Beginner Course vs Lineup #2
1 Lotus Esprit Turbo HC '87
2 Honda NSX Type S Zero '97
3 Honda NSX Type R '02
4 Lotus Elise Type 72 '01
5 Toyota MR2 GT-S '97
-- 125 Ballast

@ Autumn Ring vs Lineup #5
1 Honda NSX Type R '02
2 ASL Garaiya '02
3 Lotus Esprit Turbo HC '87
4 Toyota MR2 GT-S '97
5 Lotus Elise '00
-- 175 Ballast

@ Fuji 90's vs Lineup #11
1 ASL Garaiya '02
2 Honda NSX Type R '02
3 Lotus Esprit Turbo HC '87
4 Clio Renault Sport V6 24V '00
5 Toyota MR2 GT-S '97
-- 87 Ballast

@ El Capitan vs Lineup #12
1 Lotus Elise '00
2 Honda NSX Type S Zero '97
3 Clio Renault Sport V6 24V '00
4 Lotus Esprit Turbo HC '87
5 Honda NSX Type R '02
-- 160 Ballast


Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazard
 
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For: Professional Events / Gran Turismo World Championship / All Races
Driving: Nissan MOTUL PITWORK Z '04

Vs Lineup #1 (NTSC/USA)
:
1 MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89
2 Gillet Vertigo Race Car '04
3 Nissan R92CP Race Car '92
4 AMG Mercedes CLK-GTR Race Car '98
5 Nissan R89C Race Car '89


Settings for Brand New Car (0.0 miles, 485 SettingsHP, 478 SellHP):
R3/R3; Nitrous @ Min (not necessary for all races); Oil Change, Turbo 3 (757 SettingsHP); Downforce Max/Max, 61 Ballast @ 0, all other settings @ default

*********
*** OR ***
Same Car, but with 3384 miles & no oil
vs Lineup #11 (NTSC/USA)
Gillet Vertigo Race Car '04
Nissan R390 GT1 Race Car '98
Toyota 7 Race Car &#8216;70
Chevrolet Camaro LM Race Car '01
AMG Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR Race Car '98
(NTSC vs PAL substitutes the R390 with the GT-ONE)


Settings for Previously Driven Car (3384 miles):
R1/R1; Nitrous @ Min (not necessary for all races); Turbo 3 (707 SettingsHP); RideHt 50/50; Auto Gearing 15 (17 for CdlS); Downforce 48/67; Aids 004; 200 Ballast @ 0; all other settings @ default
*********
*********

Special thanks to OldGeezer & his excellent report for giving me the encouragement to do this...
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61239

Based on the rules I made for myself, there were only 3 candidates I had in mind for this race... The Audi ABT TT-R, the Audi R8, and the Nissan MOTUL PITWORK Z. The TT-R, while I haven't completed its testing (and doubt I ever will, based on these results), just seemed like too much of an underdog to win without lineup fishing. The R8 was too easy, and didn't lend itself to many A-spec points. That left me with the Nissan.

I won this series previously with the MOTUL PITWORK Z, but not for a sweep, and none for 200 points. My problem was simple: TOO MUCH POWER ADDED.

When I ran it the first time, this car had just come out of the CdlS I enduro, a race that pretty much required the Turbo 4, Super-Hard Racing Tires, and low downforce. But the biggest hurdle that kept me stumbling was excessive wheel spin out of corners. Thanks to OG's report, I returned all of the settings to default and gave this series another go.

Unfortunately, the A-spec offerings reported weren't quite what I wanted. So I used a Turbo 3 instead of the 4, reset the Aids back to default (10/10/5), re-fitted the R3/R3 Tires, and maxed the Downforce.

Having more than 3600 miles, I didn't have to make many adjustments to get the 200 point offers. The settings listed above are for a brand new car, and for the one I tested with (about 750 SettingsHP to start), All I had to do was take the downforce down one tick F/R, and add 10kg Ballast.
...
(EDIT)
On my test gamesave (the one from which this post originated), I used the MPZ (0 miles) for the CdlSI enduro using a Turbo 4 with TCS @ 2. The MPZ, after that race and an oil change, had 750 SettingsHP. For my "real" gamesave, I used the MPZ with a Turbo 3 and TCS @ 4 in the CdlS, and after that race and an oil change had 743 SettingsHP (soon to tick down to 742 by the start of the 2nd race). Having the TCS at 4 and revving higher throughout the race probably contributed to the additional HP loss, but I'm not certain...

I spent a week trying to beat the first lineup at Super Speedway with this car, but couldn't duplicate the results. I couldn't believe that 8 HP would make that much of a difference, nor could I believe that my driving had gotten so bad that I wouldn't be able to win there. But in any case, I couldn't get the win after about 25 tries, and I had to move forward.

I found that the 11th lineup (NTSC/USA) was beatable, but with slightly different settings. I had to hold off on the Oil Change, use R1 Tires, tick the Downforce down a bit, and max out the Ballast. These settings can be adjusted as the series progresses, as the MPZ ended up with 695 SettingsHP. The toughest race was, again, #2 @ Stupid Speedway, and the Toyota 7 was the toughest to beat there (since it doesn't pit). It took another couple of days to get it "right", and it still took an anomalous run by the Toy7 to get the victory.
(post-race replay)
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-662678002208017281
(live-play capture)
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6313377554489830898

But I managed a 200 point sweep, run as a championship, and while I would've preferred to beat the tougher opponents of Lineup #1, I finally got the results I was working for. I'll revisit this series at some other time (vs LU1, R3/R3), and I'll post the replay after doing so...
...

Qualify P1 for all races (I got P2 for Race 2 @ Stupid Speedway).

Race 1: Tokyo
Plenty of dirty driving opportunities here, but some good blocking should suffice. Wallrides and crash-turns at Turns 1, 4, 5, and 9 can make things much easier.

Race 2: Super Speedway
One of the 2 toughest races of the series (the other being CdlS I). I crash-turned the short corner, and would bump the longer one when my tires started to go. I did not pit, and over the last 2 laps, P2 and P3 chopped a 12 second lead down to 0.4"... lowering the Aids would allow for higher speeds through the turns. I ran this one after forgetting to up the Auto Gearing a notch, and would hit the rev limiter at around 208mph in 6th.

Race 3: Hong Kong
Easy win.

Race 4: Seoul Central
Easy win, especially when crash-turning the hairpin.

Race 5: El Capitan
Easy win.

Ract 6: New York
Easy win. It helps to crash turn the hairpin for the first lap to make sure the competitors don't catch a draft coming out of it. The gap widens remarkably through the twisty sections.

Race 7: Opera Paris
Easy win. Depending on how they deal with traffic, can gain 3-5 seconds/lap.

Race 8: Suzuka
Probably the 3rd toughest race, but I went into the junk several times. The grass-cut out of 2nd Curve can be used if necessary, and/or Casio. They stink through the Esses.

Race 9: Grand Valley
This was tough for me, as I haven't been racing much on this track in this direction. I looped it a few times, but other than that, no problem.

Race 10: Circuit de la Sarthe I
A tough race, especially if you're a purist that refuses to cut the Ford and Dunlop chicanes. It might be winnable without doing so, choosing to block instead, but I wouldn't know... This is another race that would benefit from upping the Auto Gearing a notch or two.

So there you have it, 2000 points in a "free" (prize) car that's OMR-eligible, with NO LINEUP FISHING!!!👍

I don't have any replays yet, but I will when I do this for my "no fun, reset-junkie" gamesave...

Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazard
 
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For: Professional Events / Supercar Festival / All Races
Driving: Aston Martin DB7 Vantage Coupe '00
Mods: S2/S2; NA2, Chip (503 SettingsHP); Nitrous; 3ple Clutch; Racing Flywheel; Carbon Driveshaft; Aids 001; Ballast (< 20, mostly 0) depending on lineup.

It is VERY tough to beat the P1 CIEN @ Infineon (I haven't done it yet), but I was able to cut deeply into its lead. Drivers with more skill should fare much better, whether driving dirty or not. Lineup #1 is a much easier field (arrangement) to beat at that venue.

Most other venues/lineups can be handled with some crash-turning and wallriding. I'll have more details, particularly with the lineup and ballast, after doing this again.

Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazard
 
For those who would like to spend less money on their IMPREZA 22B...

Although stock transmission hits the limiter in 5th gear at 147 or so, the FC tranny isn't necessary. The 3ple Clutch makes shifting a lot quicker, but I haven't tried any lower grades. The Nitrous (especially at 40) should be enough to gain the lead, but not enough to last the entire race distance. Blocking is a key ingredient for these courses.

Driving: Subaru IMPREZA Coupe 22B-STi Version (GC) '98 (used, no oil)
Mods: Nitrous, Triple-plate Clutch
Settings: S2/S2, 266 SettingsHP, Nitrous @ 40 (default), 0 Ballast


For: Professional Events / Race of Turbo Sport / All Races
- The toughest of these will be New York. The P1 Esprit (Lineup #4, or RX-7 Bathurst (Lineup #1)) can be caught in the second section (between T1 and T2) of Lap 2. From there, blocking is needed. Crash-turn the left side of the hairpin to gain time.
Fuji vs Lineup #1 can be won handily if the RX-7 is punted deep into the junk at the first corner of Lap 1, otherwise block.
Mid-Field was a close finish, but my driving was poor. Crash-turning Turn 5 can help.

For: Professional Events / Boxer Spirit / All Races
- Nothing fancy here. Other than the YellowBird @ Infineon (which can be handled easily if you don't mind dirty tactics), the opponents are cupcakes. S3 tires and/or more power CAN be added (for both events), but using them makes these races ridiculously easy.

Have A Great Drive!
RoadHazard
 
2000 more points for the 2CV!!!

For: Beginner Events / Sunday Cup / All Races (NTSC/USA)
Driving: Citroen 2CV Type A '54 (93.7 mi @ start)
Mods: Turbo 1, Nitrous, Sports Suspension, Full Custom Transmission, Triple-plate Clutch, Racing Flywheel
Settings: S2/S2; Turbo 1 (48 SettingsHP); Nitrous @ 100; RideHt 141/141, Shocks 5/5, Camber 0.5/0.0; Auto gearing @ 13; Aids @ 000; Ballast varies


@ Autumn Ring Mini vs Lineup #1
Fiat Punto HGT Abarth '00
Peugeot 106 S16 '03
SCION xB '03
VW Polo GTI '01
Alfa Romeo 147 2.0 Twinspark '02
-- 83 Ballast

@ Beginner Course vs Lineup #2
Fiat Punto HGT Abarth '00
Alfa Romeo 147 2.0 Twinspark '02
MG TF160 '03
SCION xB '03
Mazda MX-5 Miata '89
-- 3 Ballast

@ High-Speed Ring vs Lineup #3
Peugeot 106 S16 '03
Honda BALLADE SPORTS CR-X 1.5i '83
Fiat Barchetta Giovane Due '00
Renault Megane 2.0 IDE Coupe '00
MINI COOPER '02
-- 0 Ballast

@ Clubman Stage Route 5 vs Lineup #4
Peugeot 206cc '01
MGF '97
EAGLE Talon Esi '97
Peugeot 206 S16 '99
Mazda DEMIO SPORT '03
-- 0 Ballast

@ Twin Ring Motegi - West Short Course vs Lineup #5
SCION xB '03
Renault Megane 2.0 IDE Coupe '00
Honda BALLADE SPORTS CR-X 1.5i '83
Renault Megane 2.0 16V '03
VW Lupo GTI '01
-- 27 Ballast

Easy races, clean driving. Racing Muffler can be added for Clubman (making 51 SettingsHP) without affecting A-spec point offer.
...


For: Beginner Events / FF Challenge / All Races (NTSC/USA)
Same car, but with ~110 miles...
Mods: S3 Tires, Racing Muffler, Oil Change, Turbo 1, Port Polish, Engine Balancing, Nitrous, Sports Suspension, Full Custom Transmission, Triple-plate Clutch, Racing Flywheel, Stage 3 Lightening
Settings: S3/S3; Racing Muffler, Turbo 1, Oil Change (57 SettingsHP); Nitrous @ 100; RideHt 141/141, Shocks 5/6, Camber 1.0/0.5; Auto gearing @ 13; Aids @ 000; 0 Ballast


@ Mid-Field Raceway vs Lineup #2
Honda PRELUDE Type S '96
Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R '97
Renault AVANTIME '02
VW Golf GTI '01
Fiat Barchetta Giovane Due '00

@ Suzuka Circuit East Course vs Lineup #3
Mazda Mazda 323F '93
Alfa Romeo GTV 3.0 V6 24V '01
VW Lupo GTI '01
Nissan PRIMERA 20V '01
Fiat Barchetta Giovane Due '00

@ Hong Kong vs Lineup #4
Nissan PRIMERA 20V '01
Renault Megane 2.0 16V '03
Peugeot 206 S16 '99
Alfa Romeo 147 2.0 Twinspark '02
Renault Megane 2.0 IDE Coupe '00

@ Grand Valley East vs Lineup #5
Nissan PRIMERA 20V '01
Peugeot 206cc '01
Honda PRELUDE Type S '96
MINI COOPER-S '02
Opel Vectra 3.2 V6 '03

@ Twin Ring Motegi - East Short Course vs Lineup #6
Peugeot 206cc '01
Ford Taurus SHO '98
VW Golf GTI '01
Clio Renault Sport 2.0 16V '02
Nissan PRIMERA 20V '01

Lineup #1 has the Megane 2.0 IDE starting in P1. That lineup can probably be beat elsewhere, but at MFR, I found it VERY difficult. Others might fare better. All other races can be easily handled, with GVE vs the COOPER-S the most challenging (but still easily winnable).
...

It becomes increasingly apparent how "hated" the 2CV is among most GT4 players, as anyone who's willing to give this car a chance would've found these MUCH earlier than I did...

EMBRACE THE CRAPPINESS!! I LOVE MY 2CV!!!
..............................






In order to avoid "excessive" use of the RAM, I bit the bullet and bought some mods for the SALT to sweep the 4WD Challenge, spending $27500 (excluding the cost of the car). These races actually allow for use of more power (up to 100+ SettingsHP), and maybe some lightening. I was looking to find the minimal settings/minimal spending to win this, but I'm confident others can do so with less...

For: Beginner Events / 4WD Challenge / All Races
Driving: Suzuki ALTO LAPIN Turbo '02
Mods: Turbo 2, Nitrous, Full Custom Transmission
Settings: S2/S2; Turbo 2 (84 SettingsHP); Nitrous @ 100; Auto Gearing 8; Aids 000; 0 Ballast


@ Grand Valley East
Dodge RAM 1500 Laramie Hemi '04
VW New Beetle RSi '00
Audi RS 4 '01
Land Rover Range Stormer Concept '04
Ford RS200 '84
-- A tough, but winnable race. The Audi, VW, and RS200 are the tough ones of the bunch, as they go MUCH faster than the SALT when coming down the front straight.

@ Autumn Ring Mini
Audi quattro '82
Ford RS200 '84
Hyundai Clix '01
Subaru IMPREZA Sedan WRX STi '02
Audi RS 6 '02
-- An easy win.

@ Suzuka East
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII RS '03
Toyota CALDINA GT-FOUR '02
Land Rover Range Stormer Concept '04
Hyundai Clix '01
Dodge RAM 1500 Laramie Hemi '04
-- An easy win, lawnmowing isn't necessary (unelss you make a mistake at the final turn like I did).

@ El Capitan
Land Rover Range Stormer Concept '04
Audi S4 '03
Toyota CALDINA GT-FOUR '02
Audi TT Coupe 1.8T quattro '00
Audi A3 3.2 quattro '03
-- I kept the bottle maxed, and it would run out well before the race ends. The lead can be taken early, and good blocking with judicious use of the bottle should keep things manageable. The SALT loses a lot of ground between T1 and T2, as well as along the front straight.

@ Fuji 90's
Audi RS 6 '02
Audi TT Coupe 1.8T quattro '00
VW Golf IV R32 '03
Nissan STAGEA 25t RS FOUR S '98
Hyundai Clix '01
-- Lawnmowing where appropriate can make this race easier.

RoadHazard
 
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The purpose of this setup is to win 200 A-spec points in each race of the Beginner Events, 4WD Challenge, in the cleanest possible style, without use of the Dodge RAM, and without nitrous, wallriding, grasscutting or opponent car interference of any kind except minor straightaway blocking. I selected the 2nd grid from console reset (Audi Quattro '82, Ford RS200, Hyundai Clix, Subaru Impreza WRX STi '02, and Audi RS6) as the most convenient, although others are possible. Please see below for complete setup notes for my '86 Toyota Celica 2000GT-Four (ST165)


http://www.gtvault.com/gt4/setup-view/s_sid::7601/Celica-2000GT-FOUR-(ST165)-Dotini2001/

Note: The setup falls slightly short at Fuji, where I was obliged to use the shortcut (once) to reign in the rapid Ford RS200.
 
Nice find and approach, Dotini 👍. I can't recall if I've ever posted up my notes for this series, so I'll drop them in here {I'm not stalking your A-Spec journey honest :lol:}:

-------------------------------------------

BEGINNERS HALL

4WD Challenge

Single Race
4WD Cars Only
Normal or Sports Tyres
1500cr/Race Prize Money
Prize Car: Toyota Motor Triathlon Race Car &#8217;04 (0cr)
No Licence Required

Grand Valley East (2 laps) (Grid)
Autumn Ring Mini Reverse (4 laps) (Rolling)
Suzuka East (3 laps) (Grid)
El Capitan Reverse (2 laps) (Grid)
Fuji Speedway 90&#8217;s (2 laps) (Grid)

My A-Spec points for this series are in the 16 to 60 range but I have no notes on what I used then. I shall try a Audi TT Coupe 1.8T Quattro to start with, loaded up with all the suspension and transmission parts plus a VCD.

I recall that if you don&#8217;t want to lose many points, then you should avoid grids with the Dodge RAM

Hardware modifications:

No oil change (203HP)
S2 Sports Tyres
Racing Brakes & Controller
Racing Suspension and Chassis Stiffening
Racing Gearbox
3-Plate Clutch and Racing Flywheel
Custom LSD and VCD

Spring rate: 5.6/6.2
Ride Height: 102/102
Damper Bound: 5/4
Damper Rebound: 9/8
Camber: 2.0/1.0
Toe: 0/0
Stabaliser: 6/6

Gearbox AutoSet @ 9 and Final = 4.200

The first grid at Grand Valley East had a Dodge, so &#8230; the second grid is:

Audi Quattro &#8217;82, Ford RS200 &#8217;84, Hyundai Clix &#8217;01, Subaru Imprezza Sedan WRX Sti &#8217;02, Audi RS 6 &#8216;02

200 A-Spec win by 2 seconds over the Quattro on the second attempt (we won&#8217;t talk about the first one where I hadn&#8217;t fettled the suspension properly and slid off into the sand on the first corner). The Clix was a fast runner here too.

Autumn Ring Mini Reverse

First grid has a RAM &#8230; second grid:

Land Rover Range Stormer Concept &#8217;04, Audi S4 &#8217;03, Toyota Caldina GT-FOUR &#8217;02, Audi TT Coupe 1.8T Quattro &#8217;00, Audi A3 3.2 Quattro &#8217;03

A-Spec 168. Very easy win by a 12 second margin. Add 200KG Ballast. A-Spec improves to 191. MOV even larger (in excess of 15 seconds). Drop tyre grade to S1. A-Spec 199. Easy victory again. Change to N3 tyres and drop Ballast to 101. 200 A-Spec, harder victory but still easy 8 second MOV. The win was so easy that I don&#8217;t think multiple runs to determine minimum ballast are worthwhile this time.

Suzuka East.

Grid: Audi RS 6 &#8217;02, Audi TT Coupe 1.8T Quattro &#8217;00, VW Golf IV R32 &#8217;03, Nissan Stagea 25t RS Four S &#8217;98, Hyundai Clix &#8217;01

Back to S2&#8217;s and zero Ballast. Easy 194 A-Spec win, MOV 8.5 seconds. Add 31KG Ballast. A-Spec = 198. Add another 15KG for 46 Ballast. A-Spec = 199. Still very easy indeed. Increase Ballast to 51. A-Spec = 200, MOV = 8 seconds. No sweat.

El Capitan Reverse.

Grid: Audi S4 &#8217;98, Subaru Legacy B4 2.0GT specB &#8217;03, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V GSR &#8217;98, Audi RS4 &#8217;01, Peugeot 205 Turbo 16 &#8217;85

Back to zero Ballast. A-Spec 200. Startlingly easy win by six seconds despite the speed of the S4. If only all 200 A-Spec races were that easy.

Fuji Speedway &#8216;90&#8217;s.

Grid: Hyundai Clix, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V GSR &#8217;98, VW New Beetle RSi &#8217;00, Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 Turbo &#8217;98, Toyota Caldina GT-Four &#8217;02

A-Spec = 181. Shabby victory (I cut the chicane when I realised I&#8217;d out-braked myself). Add 171 Ballast. 200 A-spec but couldn&#8217;t take the win with the Clix starting on pole and the Lancer blocking and ramming for him. New grid &#8230; Clix on pole &#8230; new grid:

VW New Beetle RSi &#8217;00, Audi TT Coupe 1.8T Quattro &#8217;00, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII RS &#8217;03, Audi S3 &#8217;02, Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 Turbo &#8217;98

A-Spec with zero Ballast = 180. Took victory by 0.1 seconds with much blocking. Add 171 Ballast. A-Spec 199. Ballast to 176KG. A-Spec 200. Barged my way to the front and blocked down the S/F straight after the first lap but took the win by half a second and didn&#8217;t cut the chicane.
That&#8217;ll do for me.

The settings I developed during the series were:

Brakes: 3/3
Springs: 8.4/6.0
Ride: 116/116
Damper B: 6/5
Damper R: 9/8
Camber: 2.0/1.0
Toe: 0/0
Stabaliser: 6/6

AutoSet 5 @ 4.200

LSD (Front): 6/12/5
LSD (Rear): 9/24/10

VCD: 25
 
sukerkin, thank you very much for your "thumbs up", and for posting a setup with an easier grid for Fuji, one that does not oblige cutting the chicane. Now it my turn to bow low to you, for you are my original inspiration for attempting high A-spec scores without use of the various "tricks". Your journey has taken you far beyond my own; you are my acknowledged master of this highly evolved game, and I'm lacking about 10,000 years of evolution; a mere caveman to your Sir Isaac Newton. Fortunately, this game is occasionally easy enough that "a caveman could do it". :D
 
Last night I raced my Mazda RX-7 GTX '90 in the Beginner FR Challenge race and received 200 A-Spec points for each race. The Mazda RX-7 GTX is a good car for this race because you can make some easy adjustments to its HP, weight and tires which enable you to get around 200 points even if the lineups you face vary (which they do).

My settings for Tsukuba and Motorland (at the garage screen) were 186HP, S1 tires, a super close transmission, sport suspension and ballast of 100. The oil was old (my RX-7 has logged many miles both on and off the racetrack). At SSRt5 and Laguna Seca I added the sport exhaust, and at Seattle I added the semi-racing exhaust, so I had 196HP and 201HP, respectively.

I have recently joined the quest for maximum A-spec points (I have 58,396). My goal is to reach 100000, but my skills (I am stuck on 99.6% complete for the game) may limit this to less.

I wish to thank all previous contributors to the 200 A-Spec point threads for all their valuable tips and race information.

GTsail290
 
I have recently joined the quest for maximum A-spec points (I have 58,396). My goal is to reach 100000, but my skills (I am stuck on 99.6% complete for the game) may limit this to less.
GTsail290

Welcome to this neck of the woods A-spec nutter! Always nice to see some new blood in here. Don't sell yourself short though. I was stuck at 99.6 for a long time too. With practice and building up A specs you'll improve and you'll reach your 100K goal. Just keep at it!

AMG.
 
It's a Sunday afternoon, I'm covered in sweat, and I couldn't be more proud of myself. I've just finished the first FR Challenge race at Seattle, after an intense battle, and have earned 200 A-Spec points. And it was completely by accident.

Well, sort of. I've been working on a normal Career mode, just putting along through the races, but trying not to overkill the competition. I completed the Sunday Cup, World Compact Car Race, March Brothers, and Japanese Compact Cup, all with a Nissan Pao that I gradually tuned to be just competitive enough to win without being extreme overkill. And sometimes it still was.

But then, after running out of races for the Pao, I bought a white Nissan BLUEBIRD Hardtop 1800SSS '79, gave it some good rims, bought some parts, tuned the suspension and gear ratios, and tried the FR Race. And I lost, a lot. I kept resetting and buying more parts, and noticed the race was somehow still worth 200 points. So I tried one last time and managed to scrape ahead of the BMW Z4 '03 just a few corners before the finish. My reward? A lousy 1,500 cr. Well, that and tons of excitement and certainly pride.

I may post a race report later on, and the car setup if asked. I don't know if there's any requirements for getting into the 200pt club, but if this makes me eligible please tell me. Thanks for reading. :)
 
...I've just finished the first FR Challenge race at Seattle...

I bought a white Nissan BLUEBIRD Hardtop 1800SSS '79, gave it some good rims, bought some parts, tuned the suspension and gear ratios, and tried the FR Race. And I lost, a lot. I kept resetting and buying more parts, and noticed the race was somehow still worth 200 points. So I tried one last time and managed to scrape ahead of the BMW Z4 '03 just a few corners before the finish. My reward? A lousy 1,500 cr. Well, that and tons of excitement and certainly pride.

I may post a race report later on, and the car setup if asked. I don't know if there's any requirements for getting into the 200pt club, but if this makes me eligible please tell me.

Interesting choice MiniCooper120

Can you tell us what the Bluebird's HP, weight and tire selection were?

The Z4 is indeed normally the toughest competion.

Have you tried the Bluebird at the other four tracks in the Beginner FR Challenge? I think it could win the rest as well with some tuning. The Bluebird handles quite nicely at Seattle. Under braking it rotates quite well, so turning is a breeze at Seattle and the rumble strips do not upset its balance very much.

Its always nice to hear of 200 point wins, good job.

GTsail290
 
I don't know if there's any requirements for getting into the 200pt club, but if this makes me eligible please tell me. Thanks for reading. :)

Nice going there cooper. 👍 There's no 200pt club around IIRC. But if you manage to scrape together another 99,800 points you're more than welcome to join the [post=2474747]100K A Spec nutters club.[/post]

AMG.

Post edited (strike out "no")
 
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I think he means Club 200, which is in many signatures of people in the GT4 forum. That club has to do with 200 point wins in cars that are completely stock, and can be found in this thread. 👍
 
I think he means Club 200, which is in many signatures of people in the GT4 forum.

And is in my sig too :dunce: (<= me) You can tell Ive not been very active on GTP lately.

Ok, answer slightly adjusted, on the basis of his race no he cannot become a member as the car does not comply with the rules in that thread.
@cooper, have a look at the stock thread to see how to qualify for it and by all means go for the 100K too....

AMG.
 
Ok, I thought there was just a list of people who like racing for 200 pts, but I may in fact try for that 100,000 mark, though it won't happen soon. (I'm currently at 5961. Maybe I'll get a good amount accomplished during the summer?)

I'll be back with settings for the car if anyone would like to try. (It's lineup 1 after a reset I believe)
 
Series: Gran Turismo World Championship
Circuits: All 10 races, 2000 total A-Spec points
Lineup: 1st after reset, NTSC/US
  • MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car '89
  • Gillet Vertigo Race Car '04
  • Nissan R92CP Race Car '92
  • AMG Mercedes CLK-GTR Race Car '98
  • Nissan R89C Race Car '89
Car: black Mazda 787B
  • no oil change, no upgrades except for Rigidity Refresh, 725HP(on settings screen)
  • this setup, but just what's in the "Settings" section. I increased the braking force to 10 8 F/R, used the "tranny trick" and adjusted my final drive for each race. I added 10mm to the ride height on bumpier tracks (El Capitan namely, probably should have at Opera Paris too).
  • R2 tires
  • 80 units ballast - 75 units yields 199 Aspec points, maybe you can make 200 with less than 80, but I didn't try it.
Strategy: Qualify better than 6th, drive faster than opponents.

I couldn't get enough pace out those damn R1s the reference post suggests. Using them, I won the first race (Tokyo R246) by virtue of not pitting, but my pace was only really good for 4th, I was steadily losing a second or two per lap to the leaders before they pitted and was nailing barriers on corner exits way too much. About halfway through the second race at Motegi Superspeedway I roughly estimated that the Nissans and the Toyota would have more than a pitstop's worth of lead on me by the time they pitted and I gave up on doing 8 more races like that.

I still wanted to race my new(to me anyway) Mazda so I put on some R2s instead and tried 75 units of ballast. That yielded 199 A-Spec points so I bumped it to 80 units. I was able to qualify 2nd in Tokyo(as opposed to 4th) and stay within 5 seconds or so of the lead Toyota before it pitted and gifted me the win. I qualified 3rd at Motegi with a time that would have yielded 4th if I had let the practice session continue much longer, and I lost a lot of time in the first few laps of that race while my tires warmed up, but I had enough pace to emerge with a 16 second lead after the other 3 group C cars pitted. The other 8 races were a lot easier than I imagined they'd be after the first 2. I was able to comfortably take pole at all 8 tracks, dominate at a couple, and was kept very honest by the AI at rest. Overall a very competitive series.

So, long story short, I think a black 787B w/ R2s and some ballast makes for a much better shot at those 2000 points than one with just R1s. Those R1 are so terrible!

edit: I've also got some slightly different MGF details to add:

Series: Beginner Events -- MR Challenge
Circuits: All 5 races, 1000 total A-Spec points
Lineup: 1st after reset, NTSC/US
  • Honda NSX Type S Zero '97
  • Lotus Esprit Turbo HC '87
  • Honda NSX Type R '02
  • ASL Garaiya '02
  • Toyota MR2 GT-S '97
Car: MGF '97 6.2mi - 146 HP (no oil change), S2, 50 units ballast, drivetrain/suspension upgrades, NOS

I was able to get 200 points at every MR Challenge race with only 50 ballast in my never-driven 6.2mi MGF, but only from the first lineup after a reset, which was the same for every race in the section. Resetting was tedious, but didn't have to fiddle with the ballast race-to-race.
 
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Hey there leprechaun, and welcome to gtplanet.

I also used the MGF for the MR series (about two years ago). My notes tell me that I got 200pts with the exact same setup (either new or 10km spec car) but also an oilchange, which got me to 153hp (PAL version).

However, I didn't notice the difference in lineup values, and it seems I had trouble getting a 200 field on the later races. So thanks a lot mate for pointing out lineup#1 as the way to go. Apparently there are 22pts to still be found there, so that should be easy to clean up.

By the way, how did you use the ballast? Front/centre/rear?
 
PF
Hey there leprechaun, and welcome to gtplanet.
Hey! Thanks for the greetings :)

PF
I also used the MGF for the MR series ... However, I didn't notice the difference in lineup values, and it seems I had trouble getting a 200 field on the later races. So thanks a lot mate for pointing out lineup#1 as the way to go. Apparently there are 22pts to still be found there, so that should be easy to clean up.
So many helpful posts here at GTP, I'm glad to see a post of mine among them, being helpful.

PF
By the way, how did you use the ballast? Front/centre/rear?
Settings screen says -20. The MGF oversteers a ton when you lift off mid-corner, I'm sure I was hoping to get it a bit more neutral. I wouldn't be surprised if moving the ballast further forward was an improvement, but I'm not much good with setups and try not to screw with em too much beyond the settings I can find online. The -20 setting seemed to help a bit anyway, and I also found that limiting myself to only a few degrees of steering input in the long fast curves helped a lot too.
 
Settings screen says -20. The MGF oversteers a ton when you lift off mid-corner, I'm sure I was hoping to get it a bit more neutral. I wouldn't be surprised if moving the ballast further forward was an improvement, but I'm not much good with setups and try not to screw with em too much beyond the settings I can find online. The -20 setting seemed to help a bit anyway, and I also found that limiting myself to only a few degrees of steering input in the long fast curves helped a lot too.

Yeah, I initially put it in the front but have got better results with rear ballast on (other) MR cars since then (2 yrs). Notes tell me that I used -35 for the Aspec runs. But since then I'm thinking that a more aggressive RWD-style could be accomplished with more rear weight on the MR cars. My boldest experiment so far is my TCv5 Lighteight entry, which I think has promise.
 
Hi,

Got GT4 a while ago and started racing all kinds of cars. I happen to like the smaller/lighter cars generally, and got my first 200 points race wins today. :dopey:


I may have found a fairly easy and straightforward way to win such a 200pt race, even if you are - like myself - not a driving God ;) Haven't seen it mentioned in the summaries so far, so I thought I'd mention the way to do this particular one.


Also, fortunately it's a fairly realistic and honest way to do it - no trickery here, and no high-grip racing tyres. 👍



Take the Lotus Elise 111R to the Seoul track in the Professional/Clubman series. Mine has 198 BHP + NOS. Using N2 (Standard/Luxury) tyres, no downforce and no driving aids of course.



Tune your 111R until it has about 195/198 BHP (don't change the oil beforehand).
- Port/polish will do the trick, don't forget to add NOS (you are my hero if you can win these races without it, with the same car config and less than 200 horsepower...).
- Fully adjustable racing suspension, 1.5 diff, no downforce / no wing, better clutch, racing brakes+balancer, Stage 2 weight reduction to about 808 kilos.
- And, most importantly, add and use N2 tyres - the most realistic for street cars I think, seems to be the general consensus too. (I've won Pro races with N1 but that was NO fun, like having cheap stock Suzuki Alto tyres under a sports/racecar, yuck; and needed 480+ BHP to do it, too.) Driving aids all set to zero.

Tune the suspension until it handles to your liking and gives decent laptimes (1:11/1:10ish or lower). Imho, the car should have no understeer (kills time in corners), handle fairly neutral and be able to kick its rear out gently using the loud pedal. Reducing the front roll bar value a lot should help, for starters. Balancing your brakes until it's stable is important, too.

Then take to the track, say Anyeonghaseyo to your Korean fans alongside the guardrails and start gunning for it.

- Find an AI lineup that includes the Opel Speedster Turbo, but *not* another 111R (these tend to zoom away from the field). My races included cars like the Clio 16V, the TT 3.2, said Speedster, BMW Z4 and MR2 GT-S '97 - all around 220 - 250 BHP I believe. Now you should get about 182 - 184 point races on this track.

- To get 200 Point races, add ballast weight in the car settings. About 80 to 90 kilograms should do the trick. While you do notice the extra weight and it does slow you down a bit, fortunately this kind of Elise is light enough to be nimble and fast nonetheless. Car should weigh in at about 888 - 898 kg now.

- Now race for 200 points. You should be able to win if you're a bit experienced and have your car set up well. The car *is* very competitive set up like this, anyway.
(Note: I cut my simracing teeth on Grand Prix Legends (GPLRank: -40) which is a pretty hardcore sim and WAY more difficult than GT4, so I kind of knew how to set up and drive already, but it should be doable for most people with some practice anyway.)

To get ahead of the field and win, you should have passed most backmarkers by the start of lap 2 and start chasing the leader(s). Fortunately, on the AI lineup mentioned above the computer drivers tend to get in each other's way a bit and this helps a lot in getting past 'em.
The trick is to use your NOS only when needed, accelerating out onto straights, and cut it as soon as possible. As a guide I cut the NOS supply before passing start/finish and upon reaching 170 kph on other parts of the track. You may need to have a bit of NOS left to out-accelerate the lead car onto the final straight.


Beat the AI this way (don't forget to stay off the guardrails - no railriding or punting the AI, this is supposed to be the fairly realistic way!) and get 200 points. Done ;)

So, in summary: 200 A-spec race:
Lotus Elise 111R / Pro/Clubman / Seoul
198 BHP+NOS
N2 tyres
80 - 90kg ballast.
 
Hi,

Got GT4 a while ago and started racing all kinds of cars. I happen to like the smaller/lighter cars generally, and got my first 200 points race wins today. :dopey:


I may have found a fairly easy and straightforward way to win such a 200pt race, even if you are - like myself - not a driving God ;) Haven't seen it mentioned in the summaries so far, so I thought I'd mention the way to do this particular one.


Also, fortunately it's a fairly realistic and honest way to do it - no trickery here, and no high-grip racing tyres. 👍



Take the Lotus Elise 111R to the Seoul track in the Professional/Clubman series. Mine has 198 BHP + NOS. Using N2 (Standard/Luxury) tyres, no downforce and no driving aids of course.



Tune your 111R until it has about 195/198 BHP (don't change the oil beforehand).
- Port/polish will do the trick, don't forget to add NOS (you are my hero if you can win these races without it, with the same car config and less than 200 horsepower...).
- Fully adjustable racing suspension, 1.5 diff, no downforce / no wing, better clutch, racing brakes+balancer, Stage 2 weight reduction to about 808 kilos.
- And, most importantly, add and use N2 tyres - the most realistic for street cars I think, seems to be the general consensus too. (I've won Pro races with N1 but that was NO fun, like having cheap stock Suzuki Alto tyres under a sports/racecar, yuck; and needed 480+ BHP to do it, too.) Driving aids all set to zero.

Tune the suspension until it handles to your liking and gives decent laptimes (1:11/1:10ish or lower). Imho, the car should have no understeer (kills time in corners), handle fairly neutral and be able to kick its rear out gently using the loud pedal. Reducing the front roll bar value a lot should help, for starters. Balancing your brakes until it's stable is important, too.

Then take to the track, say Anyeonghaseyo to your Korean fans alongside the guardrails and start gunning for it.

- Find an AI lineup that includes the Opel Speedster Turbo, but *not* another 111R (these tend to zoom away from the field). My races included cars like the Clio 16V, the TT 3.2, said Speedster, BMW Z4 and MR2 GT-S '97 - all around 220 - 250 BHP I believe. Now you should get about 182 - 184 point races on this track.

- To get 200 Point races, add ballast weight in the car settings. About 80 to 90 kilograms should do the trick. While you do notice the extra weight and it does slow you down a bit, fortunately this kind of Elise is light enough to be nimble and fast nonetheless. Car should weigh in at about 888 - 898 kg now.

- Now race for 200 points. You should be able to win if you're a bit experienced and have your car set up well. The car *is* very competitive set up like this, anyway.
(Note: I cut my simracing teeth on Grand Prix Legends (GPLRank: -40) which is a pretty hardcore sim and WAY more difficult than GT4, so I kind of knew how to set up and drive already, but it should be doable for most people with some practice anyway.)

To get ahead of the field and win, you should have passed most backmarkers by the start of lap 2 and start chasing the leader(s). Fortunately, on the AI lineup mentioned above the computer drivers tend to get in each other's way a bit and this helps a lot in getting past 'em.
The trick is to use your NOS only when needed, accelerating out onto straights, and cut it as soon as possible. As a guide I cut the NOS supply before passing start/finish and upon reaching 170 kph on other parts of the track. You may need to have a bit of NOS left to out-accelerate the lead car onto the final straight.


Beat the AI this way (don't forget to stay off the guardrails - no railriding or punting the AI, this is supposed to be the fairly realistic way!) and get 200 points. Done ;)

So, in summary: 200 A-spec race:
Lotus Elise 111R / Pro/Clubman / Seoul
198 BHP+NOS
N2 tyres
80 - 90kg ballast.

Nice work RaidoGT

A nice choice of car for the Clubman Cup in the Professional Hall. I see that you were able to win at Seoul with the Lotus Elise 111R (a very nice car in my opinion). Give it a try at the other four tracks in the Clubman Cup series. You should be able to win all five races if you have the Lotus Elise tuned just right. I especially like Deep Forest.

Have you joined our quest for maximum A-spec points or do you just like competitive races?

GTsail290
 
Have you joined our quest for maximum A-spec points or do you just like competitive races?

Thanks GTsail290, it's the latter, mainly. I already got a Monster rank in GPL, which imho is nuts enough in itself (the only thing nuttier is a TotalRank, drive all cars on all 400+ tracks..). :dunce:

So in GT4, which is more of a diversion from the real hardcore stuff for me, I like to have fun and try and gradually see where that fun is, letting it grow on me naturally; trying not to become too obsessed with 'cool numbers', because having chased a deeply negative GPLRank I know all too well how seductive that can be. :sly:

I like the idea of trying for more 200pts race wins in different 'underpowered' cars though, will have a go with the 111R on some other tracks, definitely. Sooner or later will endeavour to win a 200-pointer 'stock', too. Already won races in stock cars but none of them rewarded quite that many A-spec points though.
 
I have been looking for something to do the GTWC for a while now for 200pts, thanks to the suggestions here and Dotini's setup for the Chaparral 2J I have found it. Done 7 races so far, 200pts each. Le Sarthe gave me biggest problems as there was no way to gain an advantage without cutting corners, not for me anyway. Mulled through that race and won on the 2nd attempt while the car was at stock settings.

Switched to Dotini's setup after that, have won each race by a MOV of over 30 secs for each one apart from Tokyo where again, there was nowhere to really gain an advantage so decided just not to pit and worked out well. Easiest race was New York, won by over 1 min and have left to do:

Twin Ring Motegi Super Speedway
Opera Paris
Hong Kong

Will not be using Chaparral for SS as I don't think it can win, hopefully something else can and not be too difficult.:)
 
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