- 40
Whoops you'r right you move the balaence to the front to corect OVER steer and the back to correct UNDER steer. i think.
Best boxer car
- Thread starter Gamer_Kid
- 58 comments
- 11,217 views
- 8,191
- Southern Louisiana
- GTP_Kent
Gamer_kid,
Just slow down and make sure you do all of your license testing until you can achieve atleast "Sliver" ratings.
Making a car turn and avoiding the problems you are describing is simply a matter of learning proper braking distances. 👍
Icepheonix,
The 3400s is infact a MR car so please avoid sweeping statements (not for my sake but for your own).
Also, I'm pretty sure moving the brake balancer to a higher number in the front than in the rear will result in understeer.
Having more braking power in the rear makes oversteer more likely (it helps to think about riding bicycles when addressing whether it is front or rear brakes that contribute to oversteer and understeer).
Finally, addressing the subject of the thread.
I would pick the WRX Sti '02 (GD Type II).
Not the spec C.
Sure the spec C has less weight and better torque but I just love the big spoiler on the normal Sti.
(that's not a common thing for me to like)
Plus, the normal WRX should be plenty fast and with minimal tuning to the suspension alone you should be able to take the boxer championship with ease.
Be sure to let us know how it goes. 👍
Just slow down and make sure you do all of your license testing until you can achieve atleast "Sliver" ratings.
Making a car turn and avoiding the problems you are describing is simply a matter of learning proper braking distances. 👍
Icepheonix,
The 3400s is infact a MR car so please avoid sweeping statements (not for my sake but for your own).
Also, I'm pretty sure moving the brake balancer to a higher number in the front than in the rear will result in understeer.
Having more braking power in the rear makes oversteer more likely (it helps to think about riding bicycles when addressing whether it is front or rear brakes that contribute to oversteer and understeer).
Finally, addressing the subject of the thread.
I would pick the WRX Sti '02 (GD Type II).
Not the spec C.
Sure the spec C has less weight and better torque but I just love the big spoiler on the normal Sti.
(that's not a common thing for me to like)
Plus, the normal WRX should be plenty fast and with minimal tuning to the suspension alone you should be able to take the boxer championship with ease.
Be sure to let us know how it goes. 👍
- 6,008
- Finland
Totally agreed, Impreza WRX STi isn't an Impreza WRX STi without the wing. And the normal version gives higher points too!KentI would pick the WRX Sti '02 (GD Type II).
Not the spec C.
Sure the spec C has less weight and better torque but I just love the big spoiler on the normal Sti.
- 5,833
- Right behind you
- SRV2NV
I used a 22B the first time, but have since completed it using the BTR and the Yellowbird. Pretty easy set of races, but still fun to do in the Yellowbird when i'm bored. 👍
- 939
- Netherlands
- snorretik
Leonidae
But you know, if you apply good throttle control you can keep it in light oversteer (that's how I like my corners). Only thing is that the weight is in the rear and it doesn't only give lift off oversteer, but it makes the car feel very heavy. So just brake earlier and then go throttle control. You cant really throw it into corners cause then the understeer will come around. Just brake early and you will be able to power out of any corner pretty early again, you will notice it's true power
- 23,800
- Philippines
Brock5000
I just finished two races with a stock BTR on N3s (93 A-Spec)... the stock S3s are a little too easy. At infineon, in fact, even on N3s it was easy, because the computer cars still can't get the first twisty section right.
Deep Forest is a very good challenge, as the BTR gets really loose through the fast sections and sweepers on N3s. Took me a while to get used to the BTR and relearn the course from a different perspective.
I got stuck on HK reverse, though... can't finish it without resorting to S-tires (paltry 47 A-Spec!). I really should practice there more.
The BTR understeers like hell if you get on the brakes where you normally would. You really have to brake early and plan each corner... get the car to snap just right to get it to turn in. Power on out of the corner with a wiff of opposite lock (too much lock is bad) to correct oversteer and you end up looking like an action hero. Very satisfying to get right... very frustrating to learn.
Actually, I should drive a little smoother, but with only 3-4 laps, tire wear on Ns isn't really an issue... in fact, wearing them extra fast on the first lap is a must.
C'mon guys, doing this cup with a Subie is just too easy.
- 745
- Columbus
Karmann Ghia!!
- 132
I've tried several times with a mildly modded '95 STi from the used car lot and i get completely hosed every time. Am i taking knife to a gun fight or is it possible for a so-so driver to win this series in this car.
I'm a tightwad and would prefer not to buy another car to win this series if i don't have to.
I'm a tightwad and would prefer not to buy another car to win this series if i don't have to.
PARAGON GT
Premium
- 1,018
- Motor City
- R MK XXV
Same here. Except I didn't add any ballast. And I made some changes to the cars suspension settings before taking it into the event. Right off the sales floor there is no camber added to the wheels, and that really makes it a 🤬 to drive. Add a lot to the front and a little to the back and it makes a world of diffrence.
The first couple times I beat the series I used a 22B. The Ruf was by far the car that was the most fun to use.
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
I bought a used WRX (not sure which model). Apparently I left the weight stock, but added a semi-racing suspension & soft tires. I could probly do the Boxer races on mediums nowadays. I also added close gears and an assortment of drivetrain parts (twin clutch, carbon shaft). altogether I spent about $50,000.
At the most, I used about 425 horsepower in the first race. In the other races I used less power.
HTH.
At the most, I used about 425 horsepower in the first race. In the other races I used less power.
HTH.
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get the racing suspension and a lot of different tires, find some online setups for that car, then just apply the setup that works best for you and tweak it from there. oh, and slow-in, fast out is a good place to start also. as for brake balance, I like to run the rear just a little stronger than the front
- 919
I'm surprised none of the Subiephiles have yet mentioned the Coupe R STI, especially since you two at MFT have tuned one ;-) It seems to have far superior handling characteristics to any other STI in the game, including the 22B. In full battle dress, it may not outpower the 22B, but I find it infinitely more stable, especially over elevation changes. As far as the understeer goes, MFT's extreme-differential-bias solution can help, as can a 10% front-biased VCD paired with softer front and stiffer rear settings all around. Using the VCD option with the stock LSD, add slight negative rear toe and positive front toe, and it'll even give you some early power oversteer. And as everyone else mentioned, brake early, and don't overpower your front brakes.
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
I would have to disagree on using VCD...some members here educated me that in the game, many all-wheel drive models actually have accurate variable power distributors installed while they're still stock. In other words, power shifts from rear to front in a variable manner in some AWDs just like it does in real-life (this includes Evos, Skylines, STis, some Audis, and others) and if you install a VCD, it creates a fixed situation with power distribution--and therefore you wind up losing the natural flexibility Polyphony Digital accurately modeled into these cars.
Hope that makes sense.
On the other hand: do what works for you. I find that entering the Boxer series with full-custom parts (even a brake balancer) is overkill...but whatever.
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- 919
Definitely makes sense -- I've found this to be true with quite a few Four-drivers, particularly the R34's. The Coupe R STI, however, seems to respond best to the VCD. Strangely, the 22B is just the opposite... my rule of thumb when tuning is simply to try both VCD and stock center diff and see which works best. also agreed regarding overkill on the series in particular... was straying off-topic into generalities.
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
Huh. Interesting. when I drive a Coupe R, I'll check it out...
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- 919
Try the VCD with newer Audis also - most real-life performance-minded Audis run a permanent 35/65 F/R split, so theoretically the permanent 10/90 split would work better. It seems to have held true for me for the GT4 versions of both the TT and the S4.
- 245
I used old RUF in the classics, you know the one on the far right... can't think of the name. Basically really easy if you dump cash into the lump. It comes out with 899hp. Your task at that point is to keep the beast on the track.
It understeers with braking, understeers with throttle and oversteers when you're not doing either of those.The fun really is in trying to control it. Granted I think my old used Subie moneymaker I used in the manufacturers race could beat it around a track.
But yeah, it's perfectly viable, just ease it through the corners and give it the beans and let the lump go to work. (Even stock it has about 500+hp)
It understeers with braking, understeers with throttle and oversteers when you're not doing either of those.The fun really is in trying to control it. Granted I think my old used Subie moneymaker I used in the manufacturers race could beat it around a track.
But yeah, it's perfectly viable, just ease it through the corners and give it the beans and let the lump go to work. (Even stock it has about 500+hp)
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
You know PD screwed up the TT in GT3 and GT4, right? Did you know it starts off as a front-drive? And then after you buy the VCD, it all a sudden becomes 4-wheel drive? 👎
check it out if you don't believe me..buy a stock TT, take it for a practice run. Hold the e-brake and try to rev the throttle. If the car were AWD, 4WD, or rear-drive, the engine would rev straight to the RPM limiter. But in a front-drive, the front wheels catch the pavement and tries to pull away; hence the TT in GT3 and 4 is FWD, not AWD like it should be. It is not a Quattro.
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- 919
You know PD screwed up the TT in gT3 and GT4, right? Did you know it starts off as a front-drive? And then after you buy the VCD, it all a sudden becomes 4-wheel drive? 👎
check it out if you dont believe me..buy a stock TT, take it for a practice run. Hold the e-brake and try to rev the throttle. If the car were AWD, 4WD, or rear-drive, the engine would rev straight to the RPM limiter. But in a front-drive, the front wheels catch the pavement and tries to pull away; hence the TT in gT3 and 4 is FWD, not AWD like it should be. It is not a Quattro.
Geez, yeah, you're absolutely right... I wondered why it behaved so godawfully badly stock! Never been my absolute favorite car tuned either... even comparing both cars with the VCD, the S4 has MUCH better track manners despite the big power gain.
- 6,977
- old-guy64
What have you done to the car?
An oil change, race box, and tires, and maybe upgrade turbo to stage 1, should put you on the podium with some gearbox tweakage.
The Problem with the Lancer EVO and the WRX is they tend to be geared for fast acceleration, but not a lot of top speed.
If you can build up good top end, and maintain decent momentum (SIFO is your friend) you can put up lots of interesting races with seemingly "inferior" cars.
For instance try the british cup (with all the TVR's and Big Lotus cars) with a full on Elan.
You'd be suprized what a 210 hp Elan can do to the bigger more powerful cars.
- 132
- 6,977
- old-guy64
Unfortunately, the stock gear ratios stink, in almost all the cars.
You either get top end without enough power (Camaro), or cat-quick acceleration with a top speed of about 110 (EVO, WRX).
So, with customizable transmission, you can make the best of bost worlds.
- 1,029
- Uruguay
Oh, man, that is just so wrong :-)
OK, it is true that the Subaru will get you through it easier. But it won't be as much fun, and it won't make you as good a driver.
The RUFs are sublime, they are beautiful. Driving them well is a dance, a work of art, an expression of pure driver skill. It is just you and your ability and this incredible machine with a heart and soul. The Subaru, on the other hand, is just very good car. There is a world of difference.
I would go with the RUF RGT or the BTR. When you win the series you'll snag the most beautiful RUF of all, the Yellowbird!
- 232
Subaru Impreza WRX STI. You can pick up a used one very cheap for less than 12,000cr. The after you do that you can buy some rally tires and do some rally racing.
- 2,976
- Sweden
RUF´s or high end WRX´s... The thing is, the question was for the best, and it doesn´t matter how you look at it, the racecars are the best! The Impreza super touring car or the Cusco Subaru Advan Impreza are the best boxers, and that´s it! But they are total overkill in this case...
- 235
RUFs are the best for this series, the 1986 BTR is so much fun to drive, getting that back end sliding gently out, before a tap of the throttle straightens it out........
I love it!!!!! 👍
Also, a stock one with 350 bhp or so, should provide some good competition with the Imprezas and it becomes even better when you get a Yellowbird or a CTR2 joining in.
Joe
I love it!!!!! 👍Also, a stock one with 350 bhp or so, should provide some good competition with the Imprezas and it becomes even better when you get a Yellowbird or a CTR2 joining in.
Joe
- 1,264
- coming soon
- Tezuka18
