Bring your real life car - autocross and time attackOpen

[ITCC_Andrew]

well, that sucks!


Hmmmmm.....

 

[iaustin7]

well, that sucks!


Hmmmmm.....

I have an idea, take the kart to a technical track with some straights and run the amount of laps to equal the mileage of the Nurburgring. Such as, take it to Indianapolis Road Course and run 5 laps to get a little more than 12.95 miles. If that makes sense

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

I would advise against that, a lot of the reasoning why I chose to use the Nürburgring Nordschleife was the difficulty. I'm only just choosing the 'Ring because it's a challenge of car and driver as well.


I'll make a separate karts leaderboard with a separate karts circuit roster. the tracks roster will be GT Arena Layout A (fastest of 5 laps), and Tsukuba Circuit (fastest of 5 laps.)

Obviously, the karts will be around the 1'30"000 mark. Comparing them to the full-sized cars won't work well at Tsukuba, but feel free to compare the GT Arena Layout A times with the full size cars.

 

[TouringBubble]

Real Car: '06 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution MR

Stock Turbo, cams, bottom end
Tuned for 29 psi on E85 fuel
400 whp (~460 bhp)
Intake
IC pipes
3" IC
Open dump O2 housing
3" turbo-back, no cat
Stock 6-speed trans
SPEC stage 3 clutch (sprung 6-puck)
Custom tuned (timing, fuel, MIVEC)
MR BBS wheels
Kumho XS tires, 255/40/17
Whiteline sways
GTWorx springs
Cusco camber plates
EBC Yellowstuff (F) and Ferodo DS2500 (R) pads
DBA 4000 rotors (F)

GT Car: Lancer Evolution IX GSR '05

416 bhp
SM tires
Fully adjustable suspension, matched to actual spring rates (5.2, 5.9)
stock damper settings
stiffer sways (5, 6)
Actual camber settings (-2.7, -1.3) and toe (0)
Stock brakes at 6, 7
Fully custom trans with matched US 6-speed gear ratios
LSD (the '06 Evo has a front LSD where the '05 did not)
Twin plate clutch
AYC lowered to 5% (US version had no AYC)
Stage 1 engine tuning
Sports computer
Semi-racing exhaust
Sports cat
Intake tuning
Low RPM turbo kit (to compensate for increased boost)
Stage 1 weight reduction

GT Arena: 30.038
Nordschleife: 8:04.100

TOTAL: 8:34.138

 

[MedigoFlame]

Surprised I didn't come across this thread earlier... Quite interested. I've got a Mazda 6 wagon with the US-spec Duratec 3.0L V6 with no modifications. While the Mazda 6 in GT6 is the 2.3L 4 cylinder hatch. I suppose I could add weight to the car and try and upgrade the engine to the Mazda 6 V6 specs?

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

TOTAL: 8:34.138

I knew there was someone with a faster AWD car somewhere. I knew that it would be you, too. And 255s? That must be awesome on a dry, clear track. But in the snow........

Surprised I didn't come across this thread earlier... Quite interested. I've got a Mazda 6 wagon with the US-spec Duratec 3.0L V6 with no modifications. While the Mazda 6 in GT6 is the 2.3L 4 cylinder hatch. I suppose I could add weight to the car and try and upgrade the engine to the Mazda 6 V6 specs?

Go for it! I've always been a fan of the 6 wagon. If I hadn't gotten the Subaru, I might've gotten that... I just decided, since Subaru is much easier to work on and has the AWD, to get the Subaru instead.

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

Updating OP, @TouringBubble, since your car is not in any way stock I'd like to make the distinguishing factors well known by putting in brackets that it's Street Modified class prepared. Is that okay? Most people haven't got a 300 hp car boosted up to 400+... If anyone else brings an Evo, I don't want them to feel entirely useless

 

[iaustin7]

I would advise against that, a lot of the reasoning why I chose to use the Nürburgring Nordschleife was the difficulty. I'm only just choosing the 'Ring because it's a challenge of car and driver as well.


I'll make a separate karts leaderboard with a separate karts circuit roster. the tracks roster will be GT Arena Layout A (fastest of 5 laps), and Tsukuba Circuit (fastest of 5 laps.)

Obviously, the karts will be around the 1'30"000 mark. Comparing them to the full-sized cars won't work well at Tsukuba, but feel free to compare the GT Arena Layout A times with the full size cars.

You can't run karts at Tsukuba either

 

[TouringBubble]

Updating OP, @TouringBubble, since your car is not in any way stock I'd like to make the distinguishing factors well known by putting in brackets that it's Street Modified class prepared. Is that okay? Most people haven't got a 300 hp car boosted up to 400+... If anyone else brings an Evo, I don't want them to feel entirely useless

Sure ... But honestly most of my mods are par for the course on an Evo. Pretty rare to find a stock one, at least in the US.

 

[TouringBubble]

I knew there was someone with a faster AWD car somewhere. I knew that it would be you, too. And 255s? That must be awesome on a dry, clear track. But in the snow........

The 255s are just my race tires. I run Conti Extreme Contact DWSs in 235/45 when I'm not racing. Those grip like crazy too, though. Just lose some lateral grip and transition sharpness.

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

You can't run karts at Tsukuba either

Fine, Silverstone Stowe.

 

[iaustin7]

Real Car (Kart): 2011 Arrow X1E Parilla Leopard 125cc TaG



About 30 horsepower and 320 lbs.

In-Game Kart: Gran Turismo Racing Kart 125

GT Arena: 27.067

Stowe Circuit (Done in a race w/o draft since you can't race in time trial with a kart here): 54.717

Total: 1:21.784

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

Nice, a 27.067 will probably make you the fastest at GT Arena so far. 👍

 

[MedigoFlame]

Not exactly sure about TCS... What should I run it as with it on? Since there isn't really a "level" to adjust. X_x

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

It's whatever your car runs with in real life. SRF should be off, ASM, ABS, TCS and (for Mitsubishis) AYC should be on a realistic setting.

 

[MedigoFlame]

I do have a traction control off button (not sure how much it actually turns it off) and I'll try my best to get the feel of which traction control level feels closer...

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

I do have a traction control off button (not sure how much it actually turns it off) and I'll try my best to get the feel of which traction control level feels closer...

Fair enough. However, I'd also like to tell you that if there's a "TCS OFF" button, it will also be okay to run with 0 TCS as well. You don't have to, but you do have that option.

 

[MedigoFlame]

Alright, finally done it.

My real life 2004 Mazda6 Sport Wagon.

Completely stock (With more than 95k on it) apart from recently purchased Saliun Atrezzo Z4+AS all season tires and a recent oil change.

GT6: 2003 Mazda6 5-Door

Figured I'd put in specs of the wagon when new as I never put my car on a dyno or checked it's weight... Trying to upgrade the 2.3L 4 cylinder to the specs of the V6.

Intake Tuning
Sports Computer
Sports Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
Power Limiter: 96.6%
Comfort Medium Tires front and rear
Ballast weight: 185

220HP
Rounded it up to 1575kg (Real car weighs 3472lbs, converted to 1574.873kg)
Weight distribution was off, so I moved the ballast to 60:40
Ran in automatic mode as it is an auto IRL.

GT Arena (0 TCS)
0.37.183
0.37.148
0.36.006
0.35.916
0.37.190


Nürburgring Nordschleife (0 TCS)
9:07.585

Total: 9:43.501

 

[MCNAGTROC]

I wasnt satisfied with my Nurburgring time as my goal was to match the actual time from Nissan. So I went back set a ghost lap and began the process of shaving off time. Finally got down to a 7:21.733 which is right at what the 12/13 GTR did. That was driving on the ragged edge so thats 10/10ths of what I can do. I did another 3 laps at the GT Arena and could only find a few tenths there by downshifting to first in a few of the tight areas.. ended up with a 28.254 I couldnt get into the 27s clean as it would over steer when i powered down after the final turn towards the finish

so my new total time that im going to rest on is 7:49.987

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

so my new total time that im going to rest on is 7:49.987

That's very, very fast.

 

[JBC]

Hey Guys. First of all this thread is pretty cool. Great Idea

Id love to give this a shot with my car but I have a question about Horsepower.

Im finding it difficult to equate wheel Horsepower VS Crank Horsepower. GT6 lists the stock figures for cars horsepower which obviously means they are listing crank horsepower

Im making 513 Horsepower at the Rear wheels in my 92 GTR
I can't decide if I should set the horsepower to 500 or more than 500hp in game?
Thanks - Jon

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3317133/1992-nissan-skyline/

 

[iTranz]

Had a go with my 86 c:

Real 86:

Real Life:
- Bone dry stock

GT6:
- Stock
- (Sports Hards)

Times:
GT Arena:
- 1: 0:33.569
- 2: 0:33.241
- 3: 0:32.869
- 4: 0:32.751 - Fastest time
- 5: 0:32.843

Nurburgring:
- 8:41.572 (Car must be faster in GT vs. Real life, isn't the real life time 8:44 or so?)

Total:
9:14.323

(on G27, shoddy clutch in this game is an absolute pain)

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

7 seconds faster than @akyp. I think akyp was on comfort softs, like the tires that came on the 86s.


However, that's a great lap time anyways. 👍

 

[iTranz]

7 seconds faster than @akyp. I think akyp was on comfort softs, like the tires that came on the 86s.


However, that's a great lap time anyways. 👍

Thanks
I think he might need to do a re run, from (my) knowledge, the Primacy HP's aren't all season tires (he ran comfort medium), even though people say "prius tires", they're actually a relatively well performing summer tire.

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

Well, your time was 3 seconds faster than a professional driver around the Nurburgring, so maybe comfort softs?

 

[JBC]

Well I posted before but it still says its waiting for moderator aproval. I think it's because I had a link in my post.
Anyway I gave this my best shot with my 1992 GTR.
There are few things to note. First of all my car is making 513 at the wheels. Im still wondering what horsepower to make it in the game. In real life my car makes more horsepower at the wheels than than a ZR1 (which makes 505)
but in the game Im making over 100 horsepower less.
Also my GTR came stock as an AWD but has since been converted to FR because of the widebody kit.
So I did the best I could recreating my car in Game. I bought a Torque Distributing Centre Diff to make the car 90%RWD
Even with that it feels pretty accurate to my real car.
Around the GT circuit I had a very difficult time! Fighting Constant wheels spin in 1st gear and bogging down with no boost in 2nd.

Here is my car in GT6:
Stock weight
Fully Customizeable Suspension
Racing Breaks
Stock Transmission
Triple Plate Clutch
Lightened Flywheel
Torque Distributing Center Diff: 10-90
and Limited Slip differential with no tuning
Power: Stock Engine Tuning
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Sports Cat
High RPM turbo
Body: Rear wing with max downforce, and Carbon Fibre Hood
Tires were Sports Medium


Real Car:
Everything is the same except 100% RWD and probably a little more Horsepower than in Game

Finally, My Results!
GT Course - Very difficult for highboost!
30.439
Nurburgring - Much more usable set up
7:31.300

Total
8:01.739

EDIT:
I should also say I had all assistance off accept ABS:1

Proof
https://plus.google.com/photos/117010014569986970821/albums/5567482014042379553

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

@JBC, welcome to GTP!


You can't delete your own posts. Simply allow the moderators of the site to do that for you by typing *delete, sorry*. Or, if you accidentally hit "reply" again, hit "back" on your browser.


That's a very nice GT-R. But, what does the wide-body have to do with the drivetrain? I just don't follow... Do you mean, because you have a wider track-width, so the CV joints aren't long enough?

 

[iTranz]

Well, your time was 3 seconds faster than a professional driver around the Nurburgring, so maybe comfort softs?

Probably a better idea, I'll go back and try again with CS tires later 👍

 

[JBC]

@JBC,
That's a very nice GT-R. But, what does the wide-body have to do with the drivetrain? I just don't follow... Do you mean, because you have a wider track-width, so the CV joints aren't long enough?

The car was converted to RWD before I bought it. It could have been done for many reasons.
One of the explanations has to do with Nissan Attessa AWD system having to rely on 4 equal contact patches.
Im simply assuming that the person who put the widebody kit on converted it to RWD because of the staggered wheel set up.

 

[ITCC_Andrew]

The car was converted to RWD before I bought it. It could have been done for many reasons.
One of the explanations has to do with Nissan Attessa AWD system having to rely on 4 equal contact patches.
Im simply assuming that the person who put the widebody kit on converted it to RWD because of the staggered wheel set up.

Or in order to accommodate the stagger. Valid point. I just... I wouldn't give up the AWD on my Impy, I found it strange someone would remove it from a high-power Skyline..