CLOSED: 2.0 Advanced Competition: Week 12

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Well the grain is viewable on any camera, even on my D5000 at an iso setting of lo.1. And to get a shot like that, i think you'd have to set the Iso pretty high, cause it'd be a far zoom length, therefor the iris is closed, giving a slower shutter speed and less light. The coloring is selective but i think it can add different moods and enhances it a bit.

First off, it's a nice shot - don't let the following technical jargon take away from that. :)

--- puts on photography instructor hat ---​

The opening of the aperture (or 'iris', as you called it) has zero at all to do with the focal length of the lens. I can shoot at 16mm at f/4.0, or I can shoot at 400mm at f/4.0. Likewise, if I want more depth of field (and if there's enough light to do it), I can shoot at 16mm at f/32 or 400mm at f/32.

The point is that if the aperture is wide open (i.e., if it's a lower f-stop number like 2.8 or 4.0), then a lot of light would be hitting the sensor, allowing a faster - not slower - shutter speed. In fact, that's the only way to shoot moving race cars - if you did have a slower shutter speed, they'd be nothing but blurs! That's why you'll see guys with the big white Canon L lenses at race events - they're shooting with apertures of 2.8 whenever possible in order to give them the ability to shoot at fast shutter speeds.

Also, if you have a quality dSLR (e.g., Canon's 1D MkIII or IV, 5D Mark II, Nikon's D3S or D3X), grain is simply not noticeable at all until you get around an ISO of 800 or so.

--- takes off photography instructor hat ---​

Like I said, nice photo. :)
 
FINAL ENTRY

SuzukaCircuit_5small.jpg


GTR'S Ring by ZEROX​
 
First off, it's a nice shot - don't let the following technical jargon take away from that. :)

--- puts on photography instructor hat ---​

The opening of the aperture (or 'iris', as you called it) has zero at all to do with the focal length of the lens. I can shoot at 16mm at f/4.0, or I can shoot at 400mm at f/4.0. Likewise, if I want more depth of field (and if there's enough light to do it), I can shoot at 16mm at f/32 or 400mm at f/32.

The point is that if the aperture is wide open (i.e., if it's a lower f-stop number like 2.8 or 4.0), then a lot of light would be hitting the sensor, allowing a faster - not slower - shutter speed. In fact, that's the only way to shoot moving race cars - if you did have a slower shutter speed, they'd be nothing but blurs! That's why you'll see guys with the big white Canon L lenses at race events - they're shooting with apertures of 2.8 whenever possible in order to give them the ability to shoot at fast shutter speeds.

Also, if you have a quality dSLR (e.g., Canon's 1D MkIII or IV, 5D Mark II, Nikon's D3S or D3X), grain is simply not noticeable at all until you get around an ISO of 800 or so.

--- takes off photography instructor hat ---​

Like I said, nice photo. :)

Very true, but im a bit confused how at lowest iso you still get noise. On 200 iso on my rebel its already not noticeable. And up to almost 1600 iso on my 5dmk2 I also notice nothing:drool:
 
Very true, but im a bit confused how at lowest iso you still get noise. On 200 iso on my rebel its already not noticeable. And up to almost 1600 iso on my 5dmk2 I also notice nothing:drool:

Lo. Settings on cameras are basically fake ND.

The average digital sensor is rated at iso 320, meaning, it is at its best/balanced sensitivity at that setting.

Therefore, you should be at minimal noise between 100 - 500 iso. Anything outside of that the sensor basically has to 'make up' by either making itself over or under sensitive. (although newer sensors seem to be better in higher iso's, the lower ones still seem to suffer)

its tough to explain, but digital sensors do have a 'too low' issue as much as they do with a 'too high' when it comes to ISO.
 
Very true, but im a bit confused how at lowest iso you still get noise. On 200 iso on my rebel its already not noticeable. And up to almost 1600 iso on my 5dmk2 I also notice nothing:drool:

You don't get noise at low ISOs; that was my point... as long as you stay under 800 or so (or even a touch higher for the best sensors on the market now, like the 1D MkIV or 5D MkII), noise is not an issue. Thus my attempted clarification of Gtuned's comment... :rolleyes:

its tough to explain, but digital sensors do have a 'too low' issue as much as they do with a 'too high' when it comes to ISO.

True, but they're getting better with each generation. I've shot "low" (which is ISO 50, as I recall), in conjunction with a ND filter in order to obtain long shutter speeds in bright daylight on my 5DMkII and haven't seen a problem. Couldn't do that on my old 20D, though.

Now - back to the contest!! :)
 
I would like to enter with a shot from Tokyo. But is Tokyo regarded as a "real" race track, as stated in the rules?
 
First off, it's a nice shot - don't let the following technical jargon take away from that. :)

--- puts on photography instructor hat ---​

The opening of the aperture (or 'iris', as you called it) has zero at all to do with the focal length of the lens. I can shoot at 16mm at f/4.0, or I can shoot at 400mm at f/4.0. Likewise, if I want more depth of field (and if there's enough light to do it), I can shoot at 16mm at f/32 or 400mm at f/32.

The point is that if the aperture is wide open (i.e., if it's a lower f-stop number like 2.8 or 4.0), then a lot of light would be hitting the sensor, allowing a faster - not slower - shutter speed. In fact, that's the only way to shoot moving race cars - if you did have a slower shutter speed, they'd be nothing but blurs! That's why you'll see guys with the big white Canon L lenses at race events - they're shooting with apertures of 2.8 whenever possible in order to give them the ability to shoot at fast shutter speeds.

Also, if you have a quality dSLR (e.g., Canon's 1D MkIII or IV, 5D Mark II, Nikon's D3S or D3X), grain is simply not noticeable at all until you get around an ISO of 800 or so.

--- takes off photography instructor hat ---​

Like I said, nice photo. :)

See the thing is with my lenses, When i zoom in, the apeture gets bigger, letting less light in and giving a lower speed. So if i boost up the iso, i can get the quicker speed, or just increase the spped of the shutter and get a darker shot. Now that i think about it, a Properly exposed picture wouldn't have near any noise, as that is close to being, so i guess i did fall into the stupid hipster trend.
Damnit.
 
Changed my final entry... Packed my gear and set up a new photo session at Fuji instead of R246 :D

FINAL ENTRY

 
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I meant with Real circuits the "World circuits" so that comes down to Suzuka, Fuji and Tsukuba. Sorry for not being clear enough with formulating, for the people with a R246 shot.
 
Hmmm How did you achieve that Look Zerox ?

Well, it's hard to explain since i'm not an expert in PS...but i list the tool i used...

-Curve
-Exposure
-Colour Balance
-Noise
-Motion Blur
- a little photo filter.

Is it illegal? :ill:
 
I meant with Real circuits the "World circuits" so that comes down to Suzuka, Fuji and Tsukuba. Sorry for not being clear enough with formulating, for the people with a R246 shot.

Ok :-) I'll change it later!
 
Well, it's hard to explain since i'm not an expert in PS...but i list the tool i used...

-Curve
-Exposure
-Colour Balance
-Noise
-Motion Blur
- a little photo filter.

Is it illegal? :ill:

No nothing is illegal Just that I think you ditched the Realism concept and went for something More Artsy :D Didn't like it at first but Now I do Thanks for your answer.

Oh and Question guys Is Duping layers forbidden ?
 
No nothing is illegal Just that I think you ditched the Realism concept and went for something More Artsy :D Didn't like it at first but Now I do Thanks for your answer.

Oh and Question guys Is Duping layers forbidden ?

Using layers to achieve what's mentioned in the first post is totally okay, yes 👍

First post is being updated to reflect the tracks allowed :)
 
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