CREDIT GRIND - WTC 600 Tokyo Express - Glitches are Dead.

  • Thread starter Grimm6Jack
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jergto
How much does it pay? If it doesnt beat tokyo, no point in mentioning it here. Also, is it easy to get clean race bonus?
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About 750k including the clean race bonus which is impossible not to get. And it's a much more laidback race than Tokyo, lapping the entire field at least once and a lot twice
 
It’s currently in the legendary car dealership for 2.5 million. It’s also the reward for getting all hold on The Sun Also Rises missions.

It handles really well and can lap Tokyo in 1:58 or so.

2C68D48C-5A68-4DB0-8E24-3ABF22F32245.jpeg
 
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jergto
How much does it pay? If it doesnt beat tokyo, no point in mentioning it here. Also, is it easy to get clean race bonus?
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It doesn't beat tokyo if you're sure you can keep your concentration for 25 minutes in a dull as dishwater race. Just a little nudge from AI or a slight skid in some water and you're in trouble there.

Sardegna with the 787B is a breeze no matter how poor a driver or how unfocussed you are.

I'd rather earn a little less at Sardegna for pure grinding.
 
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I feel bad for people who still grind in GT7. In 10 hours you can do 24 Sardegna races. It gives you 17 460 000. So in 10 hours (basically like a job) you don't even get enough credits for 20 000 000 car. Oof. 11,5 to 12 hours for 1 car. Insane.
 
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Neris__
I feel bad for people who still grind in GT7. In 10 hours you can do 24 Sardegna races. It gives you 17 460 000. So in 10 hours (basically like a job) you don't even get enough credits for 20 000 000 car. Oof. 11,5 to 12 hours for 1 car. Insane.
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I do one Tokyo race a day. It gets me my roulette ticket and 825,000 credits, and it takes about 25 minutes.

I don't think anyone is doing any ten-hour grinds.
 
Neris__
I feel bad for people who still grind in GT7. In 10 hours you can do 24 Sardegna races. It gives you 17 460 000. So in 10 hours (basically like a job) you don't even get enough credits for 20 000 000 car. Oof. 11,5 to 12 hours for 1 car. Insane.
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I'm sure there are very few people treating GT7 as a full time job. But it's nice to be able to boost your wallet with a well paid race now and again. But not Tokyo on comfort soft, that's not sane.
 
Neris__
I wasn't talking about one session. It is just insane for me that you have to put more than 10 hours of grind into one 20 000 000 car.
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I have to say that I feel that it is quite grindy even to hust get enough for the 3 mil race cars. The 20 mil ones as far as I can see aren't worth it from a gaming/racing viewpoint. It's just a car collection thing, which I guess is something that applies to some players but far from all. It's like a massive side quest that gives you something that has a high numerical value but no real gameplaying value.
 
gambleboyen
I have to say that I feel that it is quite grindy even to hust get enough for the 3 mil race cars. The 20 mil ones as far as I can see aren't worth it from a gaming/racing viewpoint. It's just a car collection thing, which I guess is something that applies to some players but far from all. It's like a massive side quest that gives you something that has a high numerical value but no real gameplaying value.
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Unless you are into driving all sorts of different cars, which is the main reason I have GT7. Good thing I grinded alot with the Tomahawk or this GT game would feel lost on me.
 
RichiPuppy
Unless you are into driving all sorts of different cars, which is the main reason I have GT7. Good thing I grinded alot with the Tomahawk or this GT game would feel lost on me.
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Yes but even so, there are lots and lots of cars that don't cost 18 mil +, but I get your point. If you really want to drive with the 250 GTO you do need to save up. This 20 mil old Alfa Romeo though, not seeing the draw that much.

I'm actually more worried about those invitation based cars. Who knows, maybe I'll never get an invitation for the ones I want to race. Yes we got a free pass a few months ago but I was short of credits to get more than a couple of them.
 
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In one of the ancient-previous GT'S due to the game completion (%) you unlock all the cars (I repeat ALL) for the arcade part of the game.
So you were focused to play only for the car you need and you like ..

This fantastic faeture presents in the PS1 PS2 era vanished in the PS3 , PS2 and the current Granturismos .
 
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I haven't run GT7 in a week. Roulette ticket expires every day, and I really don't care. I had almost 30 saved up to work out some statistics and possibly a video but PD & Sony have essentially cured me of GT fanboyism and possibly video gaming as a whole.
 
I've been doing the afk trick... while I'm technically not grinding/playing I still have to leave my PlayStation on at all times and watch it do it's thing because it stops like once an hour... I havent sat down and actually played since they nerfed the tomahawk... I'll probably play and enjoy the game once I have every car which will take a while lol... I dont have to have every car but just want to collect them all really
 
Hiropairippu
If I want to purchase things in real life, I have to work harder and longer at the same job and save more to get it.

I don't have a problem with this concept.

Some people win the lotto and get better things then me in life too.

Enjoy GT7 and see you on the track

#Australia #THNDR_XLR8
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I don't know how it works in Australia, but we don't pay money to get a job here in the States. The jobs pay us... PD didn't pay me to play the game, I paid them. This whole "pay to earn" gameplay fad is destroying any sense of FUN in video games. Guess we should at least be glad PD haven't implemented NFT's, lol
Saargasm
I saw on Reddit someone post a tune for the 1968 Alpine A220 race car that I would consider an "exploit" versus a crazy tune that you have to compensate your driving to the handling. I'm an average driver (compared to this forum, not general players) and I can get under 26-mins with it, which I would assume good drivers could break 25-mins.

This has to be Exact in order for it to work:
  • Tires: RS's
  • Turbo: Medium Turbo
  • Intercooler: racing intercooler - make sure to equip the intercooler
  • Transmission: racing transmission - Increase max speed to 330 Km/H
  • Diff settings:
  • Initial: 0:5
  • Acceleration: 0:29
  • Braking: 0:60

Leave ALL settings stock, including livery and wheels, except for the Differential settings (I hadn't changed mine but read a post where someone said the tune worked until they changed the livery and wheels, then it jumped to mid 750PP. Changing livery and wheels back brought it back down)

  • Fastest Lap (after 4-races): 1:59.071
  • Fastest Race: 25:40

Strategy:
  • FM1 whole race (might need to play with it if using AT; Recommend MT as there isn't too much shifting needed and allows short-shifting and maxing the mid-RPM turbo) pitting twice; 1st for new tires and I like to go 0.5 laps more than needed on fuel and 2nd just for tires. I think pitting at the end of lap 5 and again at end of lap 9 works great
  • This car weighs practically nothing and with the turbo you can get into 4th-5th by the hairpin turn. You can out accelerate and destroy them on the straights and can take corners drastically faster.
  • First 3 laps (especially first 2) the RS's feel like a curse lol, so I'd recommend using TC3 first lap or two and then back to TC1. After these first few laps, the RS's feels like super cheating! To go from SH's to RS's feels like cheating for real lol
  • Take the first two laps pretty easy, no need to rush as you'll destroy them and lap them later on and pushing the car here will almost guarantee you penalties (again not that big a deal with this car if you do, trust me lol - had 40-seconds of penalties first try with this tune + 2 complete spin-outs, one of which ended with me facing wrong direction with cars slamming into me and I still won by 0:50 seconds.
  • Save your tires with throttle control. This car doesn't like when you slam the throttle in a turn and the tail will slide and either spin-out if early in the race or snap and scrub speed later in the race. Remembering to apply throttle gradually will shave seconds off your lap and really preserve the tires - same with feathering on brake release as the very-high breaking sensitivity of 60 will have a noticeable feel (I actually prefer the majority of my tunes with 40-50 braking sensitivity). Unfortunately, you can't adjust braking to the front to even the tire wearing
  • This race could be done with 1-pit if you're strong at preserving the tires and maximizing your fuel mapping, but IMO, no need to and it's much more fun being between 90-100% throttle basically the whole lap with the slicks on.
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Was this patched out with 1.16? Have been using the A220 at Sarthe and Sardegna so I figured I'd give it a shot at Tokyo. Tried this method, made sure the tires/wheels were stock, livery is stock, medium turbo/intercooler, and have the Diff values set to those listed.

754PP... Is there a specific downforce setting? Ballast?
 
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Pizzicato1985
I don't know how it works in Australia, but we don't pay money to get a job here in the States. The jobs pays us... PD didn't pay me to play the game, I paid them. This whole "pay to earn" gameplay fad is destroying any sense of FUN in video games. Guess we should at least be glad PD haven't implemented NFT's, lol

Was this patched out with 1.16? Have been using the A220 at Sarthe and Sardegna so I figured I'd give it a shot at Tokyo. Tried this method, made sure the tires/wheels were stock, livery is stock, medium turbo/intercooler, and have the Diff values set to those listed.

754PP... Is there a specific downforce setting? Ballast?
Click to expand...
It was still working 2 hours ago for me,downforce was set to 150/150 no ballast,make sure you have no weight reduction or extra engine bits.Also try a new setting sheet. 👍
 
Trying this set up, since I love the 220(use it sometimes at La Sarthe). See how we go.

Edit: 26:34.563, half worn rears and 0.3 Laps left in tank. My FL was a 2:05.005. Pretty easy. Didn’t collide with cars or rub walls. Only one floaty ride on a wet corner during Lap 9. No dramas.
 
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tiberiusteng
When you discover that this build has far more grip & control comparing to A220 with racing soft ...

That car has been banned from participating races, in the real life. 🤣
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Both cars are capable of sub 25 min. runs so it just comes down to personal preference. I don't think the 2J is vastly superior here.
 
mynameis66
It was still working 2 hours ago for me,downforce was set to 150/150 no ballast,make sure you have no weight reduction or extra engine bits.Also try a new setting sheet. 👍
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tiberiusteng
If you performed any body modification (weight reduction, increase body rigidity) or engine modification in the tuning shop, then you have to purchase new engine/body to return them all to factory config.
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Thanks guys. I've not performed any weight reductions or added any of the permanent engine mods. Just used a fresh sheet and am still getting the 750ish PP. I must be overlooking something...

Race Softs are the tires, front and back, correct?
 
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Pizzicato1985
Thanks guys. I've not performed any weight reductions or added any of the permanent engine mods. Just used a fresh sheet and am still getting the 750ish PP. I must be overlooking something...

Race Softs are the tires, front and back, correct?
Click to expand...
Yep. Any chance you can post a pic of your setup to figure out what's missing?
 
Neris__
I feel bad for people who still grind in GT7. In 10 hours you can do 24 Sardegna races. It gives you 17 460 000. So in 10 hours (basically like a job) you don't even get enough credits for 20 000 000 car. Oof. 11,5 to 12 hours for 1 car. Insane.
Click to expand...
Agree, I stopped grinding after Tomahawk exploit got patched ... I have about 260 cars owned now with all my personal favourites apart from maybe 2-3 at most , only 1mil in the bank and I refuse to race the AI anymore (completed all additional update menu books - all 1 hour enduros and missions and done 75% of circuit experiences golded.

This game gives a poor account of itself when Sport mode is just not viable to earn decent credits.

That compiled with the fact you can just rent every car now on Sport mode - it doesn't make me want to go and waste time to earn credits to buy it (just so I can put my own livery on LMAO).
 
Saargasm
I saw on Reddit someone post a tune for the 1968 Alpine A220 race car that I would consider an "exploit" versus a crazy tune that you have to compensate your driving to the handling. I'm an average driver (compared to this forum, not general players) and I can get under 26-mins with it, which I would assume good drivers could break 25-mins.

This has to be Exact in order for it to work:
  • Tires: RS's
  • Turbo: Medium Turbo
  • Intercooler: racing intercooler - make sure to equip the intercooler
  • Transmission: racing transmission - Increase max speed to 330 Km/H
  • Diff settings:
  • Initial: 0:5
  • Acceleration: 0:29
  • Braking: 0:60

Leave ALL settings stock, including livery and wheels, except for the Differential settings (I hadn't changed mine but read a post where someone said the tune worked until they changed the livery and wheels, then it jumped to mid 750PP. Changing livery and wheels back brought it back down)

  • Fastest Lap (after 4-races): 1:59.071
  • Fastest Race: 25:40

Strategy:
  • FM1 whole race (might need to play with it if using AT; Recommend MT as there isn't too much shifting needed and allows short-shifting and maxing the mid-RPM turbo) pitting twice; 1st for new tires and I like to go 0.5 laps more than needed on fuel and 2nd just for tires. I think pitting at the end of lap 5 and again at end of lap 9 works great
  • This car weighs practically nothing and with the turbo you can get into 4th-5th by the hairpin turn. You can out accelerate and destroy them on the straights and can take corners drastically faster.
  • First 3 laps (especially first 2) the RS's feel like a curse lol, so I'd recommend using TC3 first lap or two and then back to TC1. After these first few laps, the RS's feels like super cheating! To go from SH's to RS's feels like cheating for real lol
  • Take the first two laps pretty easy, no need to rush as you'll destroy them and lap them later on and pushing the car here will almost guarantee you penalties (again not that big a deal with this car if you do, trust me lol - had 40-seconds of penalties first try with this tune + 2 complete spin-outs, one of which ended with me facing wrong direction with cars slamming into me and I still won by 0:50 seconds.
  • Save your tires with throttle control. This car doesn't like when you slam the throttle in a turn and the tail will slide and either spin-out if early in the race or snap and scrub speed later in the race. Remembering to apply throttle gradually will shave seconds off your lap and really preserve the tires - same with feathering on brake release as the very-high breaking sensitivity of 60 will have a noticeable feel (I actually prefer the majority of my tunes with 40-50 braking sensitivity). Unfortunately, you can't adjust braking to the front to even the tire wearing
  • This race could be done with 1-pit if you're strong at preserving the tires and maximizing your fuel mapping, but IMO, no need to and it's much more fun being between 90-100% throttle basically the whole lap with the slicks on.
Click to expand...
25:38 is the fastest I've done this race. I think I'm capable of 25:30, but that's probably my current max - Gentlemen drivers with proper setup (I'm on controller) could probably shave 1.5-2.0-seconds a lap off my time which means 25:06 is probably the fastest this race can be completed.

I will say though, I'm obsessed with this race! Sardegna is boring to me and I don't find myself wanting to beat my time - something about that smaller payout and the same amount of time to complete (even though many more cars to use). Le Mans race I find more fun, but same as Sardegna, I don't find myself coming back as much. I do love the Spa race - I like the course and the large amount of cars to use without having to detune to high heavens. But I can make $125k more in 8-11-mins less with Tokyo. And I like how much concentration I require for Tokyo as making a mistake on throttle and hitting wall nets -8.0 seconds on that current lap and about 1.0-seconds on the next, so about 9-seconds total per penalty.
 
tiberiusteng
When you discover that this build has far more grip & control comparing to A220 with racing soft ...

That car has been banned from participating races, in the real life. 🤣
Click to expand...
TC5 first lap, then TC1 once you hit straight at end of the lap. Stick to the racing line as the final license test forced us to learn lol. Then being smooth AF on the throttle, braking and corner entry (which is sooooo enjoyable) as this car handles like a beauty! If I am having a perfect race, I'll pit at the end of lap 7 and go to the end of the race to try and beat my fastest time. If I had a penalty or such, I put at the end of 6 and again at the end of lap 9 or 10 and try for a new fastest lap.
 

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