DiRT Rally 2.0 General Discussion

  • Thread starter PJTierney
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Have they allowed me to reset career yet? Cars and team as well? Or is reset still only the championships?
 
Ever have a perfect run during a daily event only to have a tree come out of nowhere on the final stretch? I sure have. And I sat there for a minute or so while Phil Mills there is all like, “Something feels wrong with the car.” Thanks Phil, rub it in.

I’ve been playing enough now to realize that I might be worse at DR2.0 than I was at the first game. It’s brutally difficult and I love it.
 
Try moving your brake balance forward - I had this problem in SLRE until I did that.
In historic RWD cars the usual culprit to this ain't the brake bias but pretty much the viscous differential. Turn it full to the left maxed out loose. This has happened to me with the Sierra Cosworth. No more wierd spins.

I don't udnerstand why these cars have a viscous differential anyway. This **** is useful only on road hypercars and on very grippy conditions, otherwise = viscous diff = no thanks, let alone on gravel. VD should also have an impact on engines power making you to lose time, but I don't think codemasters have taken their "simulation" that far let alone on this completely outdated ego engine of theirs.

It can be useful only on wet mud, snow or very poor grip conditions; wet tarmac too, but you will still spin often if you use it.
 
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View attachment 806022 Enjoying the new cars :bowdown:

3rd on the leaderboard :):lol:

hmmm I had to be satisfied with a #5 on the leaderboard...(without upgrades and default setting ;))

Dirt Rally 2 Screenshot 2019.03.12 - 19.29.36.75.png
 
Just so everyone is aware, today's update has introduced Monthly challenges. There are three of them to be exact, you can use FWD H1 cars in one of them. ;) For the other two monthlies you can use... H1 FWD cars. :boggled:

If you have got the Deluxe Edition, you might want to get the D+ event wrapped up first; it consists of four events (6 stages each if the first event is anything to go by) and even completing the championship in one piece should net you at least 1 million credits. 👍
 
Performance certainly didn't improve with the update. FPS in this game show insane fluctuations ranging from 120+ down to 53 with of course advanced blending off, which nobody understands why CM has left it enabled for dr2 by default, as it is the ultimate performance killer like happened with its predecessor. Still, with it off, there are some sectors where the game really struggles even with the AA off too, which is unacceptable.

This is the worst optimized Dirt instalment along with the first entry back then in 2007. Straight away. Asus ranger 7_i74790k_970G1_16ramGB_ssd

How is this pathetic port working on AMD cards, amd folks?, this ego engine certainly can't handle much more modern graphical stuff being added on to it. It's reached its peak, simply put.
 
Ever have a perfect run during a daily event only to have a tree come out of nowhere on the final stretch? I sure have. And I sat there for a minute or so while Phil Mills there is all like, “Something feels wrong with the car.” Thanks Phil, rub it in.

I’ve been playing enough now to realize that I might be worse at DR2.0 than I was at the first game. It’s brutally difficult and I love it.

There is a little quirk at the very end of most stages where if you make a tiny slipup it can cost you big time. Unless I see the end right after the green flags and it's a straight shot I let up because I know there an off camber turn or some other crp to throw you off. :)

Performance certainly didn't improve with the update. FPS in this game show insane fluctuations ranging from 120+ down to 53 with of course advanced blending off, which nobody understands why CM has left it enabled for dr2 by default, as it is the ultimate performance killer like happened with its predecessor. Still, with it off, there are some sectors where the game really struggles even with the AA off too, which is unacceptable.

This is the worst optimized Dirt instalment along with the first entry back then in 2007. Straight away. Asus ranger 7_i74790k_970G1_16ramGB_ssd

How is this pathetic port working on AMD cards, amd folks?, this ego engine certainly can't handle much more modern graphical stuff being added on to it. It's reached its peak, simply put.

Weird. I have similar spec I7/ 1080ti/ssd and since I turned crowds down and motion blur off and run in windowless bordered I get consistently high fps. I'm not adept enough to know why, but running in borderless windowed mode makes a big difference on my rig.
 
There is a little quirk at the very end of most stages where if you make a tiny slipup it can cost you big time. Unless I see the end right after the green flags and it's a straight shot I let up because I know there an off camber turn or some other crp to throw you off. :)

This is totally true. In a way it makes the stages annoying because they’re not natural, there’s always a dev-added trap lurking right before the end designed to ruin your 8+ minutes of mistake-free driving.
 
Weird. I have similar spec I7/ 1080ti/ssd and since I turned crowds down and motion blur off and run in windowless bordered I get consistently high fps. I'm not adept enough to know why, but running in borderless windowed mode makes a big difference on my rig.
Strange. You should have a fps lock when on borderless windowed (60fps depending on your monitor refresh rate), as well as increased input lag due to the vertical synch imposed by windows under that setting.
 
Agree about traps near the end of most CM titles, but 2.0 doesn’t seem that bad so far. Maybe I’m too slow and cautious right now trying to finish with no crashes or extraneous excursions. DR1 seemed much worse, and D4 had a couple that I recall.

The worst DR1 trap in my memory was in Greece. Don’t remember the precise stage, but it was a blind tight right which was easily missed and usually resulted in going off a cliff or into a telephone pole. Finland had a number of them too. Usually was a big jump into a large rock, railing or wood pile.

D4 at Spain there's a blind three right into two left in a wooded area that was bad.
 
Strange. You should have a fps lock when on borderless windowed (60fps depending on your monitor refresh rate), as well as increased input lag due to the vertical synch imposed by windows under that setting.

Yeah, just looked lol. Your absolutely right. I haven't noticed any input lag. I frapped it after lowering the crowds and turning off motion blur but must not have when I went to windowed borderless. I only did that because it fixed fps issues in another game where i was dropping into the upper 20's lower 30's and got a solid 60 after the change. May have been Witcher 3 if I'm not mistaken.

Edit. I'll frap tonight in fullscreen, crowds low/motion blur off and report back.
 
In historic RWD cars the usual culprit to this ain't the brake bias but pretty much the viscous differential. Turn it full to the left maxed out loose. This has happened to me with the Sierra Cosworth. No more wierd spins.

I don't udnerstand why these cars have a viscous differential anyway. This **** is useful only on road hypercars and on very grippy conditions, otherwise = viscous diff = no thanks, let alone on gravel. VD should also have an impact on engines power making you to lose time, but I don't think codemasters have taken their "simulation" that far let alone on this completely outdated ego engine of theirs.

It can be useful only on wet mud, snow or very poor grip conditions; wet tarmac too, but you will still spin often if you use it.
Thanks for pointing me in this direction, have to say I would recommend still running with a minimal amount of lock (6% works well in the Escort) as it helps with straight line stability and heavy surface degradation. I however 100% agree that as a default its set far to high.

I've put a video together to help spread the message (with a shout out to yourself for pointing us in this direction).

 
There’s a pretty blatant trap in Argentina—the blind turn to the right over a bridge. By the time Phil is done telling me about it, my car is “unrecoverable”
Lol, I have gone over it at least three times now. Usually my car is 1/2 way over the side when I hear 1 righ..........

and be a lot earlier.

That's the key I see it before he ever announces it and way too fast to do anything about it.
 
FPS in this game show insane fluctuations ranging from 120+ down to 53 with of course advanced blending off, which nobody understands why CM has left it enabled for dr2 by default, as it is the ultimate performance killer like happened with its predecessor.

Advanced blending was a real performance hog in DR1 yes but in DR2 it hardly costs a single FPS, so I guess you never actually tried it enabled?

Crowds are a HUGE hog in DR2 though. Going from high to low gives you 15-20 fps more.
 
Thanks for pointing me in this direction, have to say I would recommend still running with a minimal amount of lock (6% works well in the Escort) as it helps with straight line stability and heavy surface degradation. I however 100% agree that as a default its set far to high.

I've put a video together to help spread the message (with a shout out to yourself for pointing us in this direction).

Noo nooo man delete that video asap omg hahh. I appreciate the shout out, but we may be misleading a lot of folks out there with the info given in the video. I mean maybe I wasn't clear enough when I talked about the diff on these old rwd cars. I was talking specifically about the Sierra Cosworth, which comes equipped (in this game only actually which surprised me) with a viscous differential. The viscous differential has nothing to do with the accel and decel differential ramps you see in the other cars.

What you're doing in the video is setting the first slider to a loose setting (power ramp_acceleration diff). What this does is not allowing the wheel under load to spin faster than the other in the same axis, which may give you a false* feeling of superior control of the back end on slippery roads (mud_ wet mud; gravel_wet gravel; snow; ice; wet tarmac; other), but will also make you lose a lot of time, because it won't allow the car accelerate to the max until there's no more slip.

When racing, regardless dry tarmax or dry gravel_mud, you must use a blocked differential. It will always lead to more understeer and the car will be prone to spin the wheel too much when in the middle of the act of negotiating a corner, but will give you more stability the moment you enter it, and with the proper throttle_steering skills, allow you to exit it faster gaining tenth by tenth corner after corner, because it won't hog your engine by stopping the spinning wheel under load until it matches the other. This is why rally drivers use the handbrake that much. It helps you overcome the high blocking setting on the accel diff, for then taking advantage of the unleashed power it grants you in the middle of the corner that is being negotiated by allowing the spinning wheel to continue to spin, basing everything on pure skill of your throttle/steering skills.

If you have found that you're so confortable with a very loose diff like you did in the video and on your personal testings after my post, remember that it will come to the cost of so much time lost, so I'd advise, at the very very least, you bring back that slider to the right again up to its middle setting. Still, and with that false* feeling of superior control of your car, you will continue to loose time until you bring back that power ramp to a tight angle (the slider more to the right).

The second slider you're also wrongly setting it to very loose, or the loosest setting, is the deceleration differential, which should also left it to kind of very blocked. This will give you stability under breaking before a corner with the con of more understeer, but the pay off is positive given the nature of a wrd car, and because the handbrake is, again, key for rally racing, so use it. Actually, I don't understand how you didn't spin when breaking before every corner in the video with the decel diff set to loose : - D

The preload you can play with it regardless. More preload will give you more stability, less more agility, but on rwd cars is recommended to leave it kinda high.
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* Try a full loose accel. diff setting on dry tarmac and find out why that feeling of better/superior control is completely false, and find yourself spinning around everytime you touch the throttle under evry grippy conditions such as that one on that surface, because not allowing the spinning wheel to continue to spìn under grippy conditions will lead to inevitable spin, while a blocked setting won't regardless you have more power on the throttle when exiting. It is the nature of gravel_mud racing on gravel_mud tyres what has given that false feeling of superior control without spinning even on a loose power ramp setting and on a rwd car. The moment you do the same with the same accel diff setting on asphalt and with asphalt tyres, specially if they are performance tyres, then you will spin all around the moment you exit a corner most probably.

Remember. Loose accel diff setting only under very very slippery conditions regardless it is gravel or tarmac. And still, don't open it to the max. Leave it on a balanced setting.
___________________________________________________________

Hope this wall of text (sorry) helped clarify matters. You must use blocked accel diffs when racing regardless the power of your car.
 
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The final Engineer costs 1,200,000 :scared:
That's a high asking price indeed. Bit greedy don't you think?

Thanks for pointing me in this direction, have to say I would recommend still running with a minimal amount of lock (6% works well in the Escort) as it helps with straight line stability and heavy surface degradation. I however 100% agree that as a default its set far to high.

I've put a video together to help spread the message (with a shout out to yourself for pointing us in this direction).


When I reduced the diff lock from it's stock setting, it felt worse. But I haven't tested it at 6%.
 
I found that even the RX cars are very tail happy when braking. The brake bias towards the front helps but it is not enough.
 
Performance certainly didn't improve with the update. FPS in this game show insane fluctuations ranging from 120+ down to 53 with of course advanced blending off, which nobody understands why CM has left it enabled for dr2 by default, as it is the ultimate performance killer like happened with its predecessor. Still, with it off, there are some sectors where the game really struggles even with the AA off too, which is unacceptable.

This is the worst optimized Dirt instalment along with the first entry back then in 2007. Straight away. Asus ranger 7_i74790k_970G1_16ramGB_ssd

How is this pathetic port working on AMD cards, amd folks?, this ego engine certainly can't handle much more modern graphical stuff being added on to it. It's reached its peak, simply put.

Pretty poorly to be honest - it seems incredibly intensive for no apparent reason. My processor temp. is hitting 75+ at times which is ridiculous really. I've had enough of it and not taking any chances so I've capped my frame-rate at 60fps to avoid any potential problems.

I'm only rocking a 2700 but ACC by comparison runs much better.
 
Messing with the tuning a bit and setting traction and stability to “3” each, I’ve finally been able to handle the RWD cars on the gravel and tarmac (wet or dry). Still a bit tricky, but getting there.

Also, really enjoying the 2 new DLC cars, the Skoda and Citroen. I hope they add more cars to that class. Speaking of Petter Solberg, I am still hoping for his 2004/5 season Subaru Impreza. Phil Mills was his co-driver too! One of my all time favorite rally cars, the reason I got a STI.
petter_4.jpg
 
Noo nooo man delete that video asap omg hahh. I appreciate the shout out, but we may be misleading a lot of folks out there with the info given in the video. I mean maybe I wasn't clear enough when I talked about the diff on these old rwd cars. I was talking specifically about the Sierra Cosworth, which comes equipped (in this game only actually which surprised me) with a viscous differential. The viscous differential has nothing to do with the accel and decel differential ramps you see in the other cars.

What you're doing in the video is setting the first slider to a loose setting (power ramp_acceleration diff). What this does is not allowing the wheel under load to spin faster than the other in the same axis, which may give you a false* feeling of superior control of the back end on slippery roads (mud_ wet mud; gravel_wet gravel; snow; ice; wet tarmac; other), but will also make you lose a lot of time, because it won't allow the car accelerate to the max until there's no more slip.

When racing, regardless dry tarmax or dry gravel_mud, you must use a blocked differential. It will always lead to more understeer and the car will be prone to spin the wheel too much when in the middle of the act of negotiating a corner, but will give you more stability the moment you enter it, and with the proper throttle_steering skills, allow you to exit it faster gaining tenth by tenth corner after corner, because it won't hog your engine by stopping the spinning wheel under load until it matches the other. This is why rally drivers use the handbrake that much. It helps you overcome the high blocking setting on the accel diff, for then taking advantage of the unleashed power it grants you in the middle of the corner that is being negotiated by allowing the spinning wheel to continue to spin, basing everything on pure skill of your throttle/steering skills.

If you have found that you're so confortable with a very loose diff like you did in the video and on your personal testings after my post, remember that it will come to the cost of so much time lost, so I'd advise, at the very very least, you bring back that slider to the right again up to its middle setting. Still, and with that false* feeling of superior control of your car, you will continue to loose time until you bring back that power ramp to a tight angle (the slider more to the right).

The second slider you're also wrongly setting it to very loose, or the loosest setting, is the deceleration differential, which should also left it to kind of very blocked. This will give you stability under breaking before a corner with the con of more understeer, but the pay off is positive given the nature of a wrd car, and because the handbrake is, again, key for rally racing, so use it. Actually, I don't understand how you didn't spin when breaking before every corner in the video with the decel diff set to loose : - D

The preload you can play with it regardless. More preload will give you more stability, less more agility, but on rwd cars is recommended to leave it kinda high.
___________________________________________________________
* Try a full loose accel. diff setting on dry tarmac and find out why that feeling of better/superior control is completely false, and find yourself spinning around everytime you touch the throttle under evry grippy conditions such as that one on that surface, because not allowing the spinning wheel to continue to spìn under grippy conditions will lead to inevitable spin, while a blocked setting won't regardless you have more power on the throttle when exiting. It is the nature of gravel_mud racing on gravel_mud tyres what has given that false feeling of superior control without spinning even on a loose power ramp setting and on a rwd car. The moment you do the same with the same accel diff setting on asphalt and with asphalt tyres, specially if they are performance tyres, then you will spin all around the moment you exit a corner most probably.

Remember. Loose accel diff setting only under very very slippery conditions regardless it is gravel or tarmac. And still, don't open it to the max. Leave it on a balanced setting.
___________________________________________________________

Hope this wall of text (sorry) helped clarify matters. You must use blocked accel diffs when racing regardless the power of your car.
While I agree that's how it should be, based on a good few hours of testing this last night, that's not how it seems to currently be working.

I've driven an Escort on gravel and the way the DR2.0 car drives in stock tune is simply wrong, the degree of rotation under braking and acceleration is absurd compared to how it should be. Reducing down the diff to 6% - 12% under both accel and decel gets the car handling a lot more as it should be, to the point on the stage I was testing on for the video I was 31 seconds quicker with the diff opened up (but not fully open) that with it at stock.
 
Messing with the tuning a bit and setting traction and stability to “3” each, I’ve finally been able to handle the RWD cars on the gravel and tarmac (wet or dry). Still a bit tricky, but getting there.
That gain on the handling has been obtained through artificial means such as stability control. On the rwd cars we were talking about, and in all rally/rallycross cars actually regardless they are more modern or not, there is no TC and SC to be found on them as we could have it no other way if actual pilots on gravel wanna be fast.

I'd advise you turn assists off again and continue to play with the car setup, as well as improving your throttle/steering/braking skills. That is the realistic way with these cars regardless their era, and when you get there, the most fun too of course.

I have found out that in this game, we are spinning out sometimes with rwd cars for a couple of reasons. First one definitely is because in 99% of the times we have put one wheel on the grass/out of the road, and when we accelerate with the blocked accel. diff under that circumstance, we will inevitably spin, as such is the nature of a rwd car with a blocked accel diff when spinning on the grass (no grip there even with gravel tyres). The also new deformated road can 80% of the times being another culprit to blame with blocked diffs. The second reason is the nature of this ego engine. It happened on DR1 as well with rwd cars when you put the wheel under load on the grass and then spin when using the throttle even sightly, again with a blocked accel diff.

In short, we spin with rwd cars on DR2 (and 1), first because our mistake by putting the wheel under load on the grass and then applying gas, and second because of the snappy nature of this ego engine, that will sometimes doom us all udner this cisrcumstances. Still, we must use a blocked acceleration diff and learn to control it and drive with it set like that. That's is the realistic way, and the only one too, otherwise we lose a lot of time when exiting corners, and spin out a lot under optimal grip conditions regardless the surface.
 
Pretty poorly to be honest - it seems incredibly intensive for no apparent reason. My processor temp. is hitting 75+ at times which is ridiculous really. I've had enough of it and not taking any chances so I've capped my frame-rate at 60fps to avoid any potential problems.
How can I cap fps in this game without using a external app such as msi afterburner (which usually leads to issues too with modern games)?

Advanced blending was a real performance hog in DR1 yes but in DR2 it hardly costs a single FPS, so I guess you never actually tried it enabled?
Of course I did because it comes enabled by default, which is crazy taking into account devs are supposed to be smart guys. The outcome with it enabled is a max fps rate of 85, dropping down to even 35 in "those sectors". Again, with it enabled the fps loss can get up to 40 frames (insane), but now on DR2 and as opposed to the first game, with it disabled I get up to 135 fps max down to 53 in "those sections", which is borderline unacceptable (on DR1 I had over 110 max with a minimum of just 90 or so in the worst sectors). Driver is 419.17 which supports DR2 day 1.

Crowds are a HUGE hog in DR2 though. Going from high to low gives you 15-20 fps more.
It is not a matter of crowds or reducing graphics more. Yes it gives me more FPS in the max rate, but in those zones the FPS loss continues to be massive and way over the top.

Ego engine can't handle tyre simulation even on this simplistic level. That's my guess and the why to what may be happening behind those tremendous drops. Then there's also the new lightning added and other stuff, which even more compromises egos performance.

EGO reached its peak. My two cents. An engine born to be arcade can't handle any kind of simulation, let alone complicated ones such as what It has to do with tyres. We've never had dinamic weather as well, which was another day one limitation to it.
 
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