Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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Goshin2568
To make it even weirder, I just checked, my CSW 2.5 on drivehub beta 12 shows up as a CSL elite in game, not a GT DD Pro. Maybe it has to do with the fanatec firmware of the base or the wheel?
Click to expand...
If that's the case, it's changed with the update. My 2.5 was showing up as a DD Pro on beta 12.
 
F1nutcase
If that's the case, it's changed with the update. My 2.5 was showing up as a DD Pro on beta 12.
Click to expand...
Possibly, but it also could be something else. I posted an issue in this thread awhile back where it felt like sometimes my wheel's FFB was really strong, and other times it was much weaker. Not in a way that was broken, it didn't feel any worse, just like FFB strength had been turned down in a fanatec settings.

I'm just now putting 2 and 2 together that I think when it's strong is when the game is picking it up as a GT DD Pro, and when it's weak it's picking it up as a CSL Elite. Because it's showing as a CSL elite now, but now that I think about it I've definitely seen it as a GT DD pro before also.


The question is, what exactly is causing it to see it as one wheel or the other? It's not firmware, because it switches back and forth multiple times in the same day sometimes. It literally feels like a random coin flip every time I boot it up which it will be. I used to think it was dependant on whether you turned the wheel on first or the console on first, but recently it's been breaking that pattern too. Hmmm...
 
On DD2, I just turned torque in game up to 8-10 depending on which car and in some ways it feels better. Still missing some certain details but I know when the car is stepping out better now as well as it not just being dead weight in cornering. There's details that come through while cornering now.
 
Update definitely turned down the FFB on my wheel experience. Pretty much followed the Fanatec guide exactly. I would estimate I have nearly all of my FFB back and a fairly noticeable improvement on detail. However, now the FFB is maxed on both the game and the wheel. So not much range from here.

Note: My wheel is still being detected as a DD Pro.
 
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Goshin2568
To make it even weirder, I just checked, my CSW 2.5 on drivehub beta 12 shows up as a CSL elite in game, not a GT DD Pro. Maybe it has to do with the fanatec firmware of the base or the wheel?
Click to expand...
I did only do a quick test last night as I have been practicing for a GTS league race, and I did not confirm if it had detected it as a GT DD PRO last night, but previous times it has, I am running the latest wheel firmware 439.
 
Goonie75
I did only do a quick test last night as I have been practicing for a GTS league race, and I did not confirm if it had detected it as a GT DD PRO last night, but previous times it has, I am running the latest wheel firmware 439.
Click to expand...
This has been driving me crazy so I actually spent like 3 hours today testing and I think I've got it figured out. For reference this is gt7 on a csw 2.5, xbox hub, ps5, drivehub on beta 12. I'm not sure if this works with any other combination. This is a wall of text but if you use a CSW and drivehub I promise it's worth a read, especially if you're having FFB issues post update.


So, basically, you have the option for the game to see your wheel as either a GT DD Pro or as a CSL Elite. This matters, because the game handles FFB very differently depending on which wheel it sees the csw as. If any of y'all with a CSW and drivehub end up trying this, please let me know what your experience is. But make sure to follow the directions closely when it comes to unplugging and turning stuff on, there is a pretty specific sequence and skipping or doing anything out of order can stop the "mode switch" from happening.


For GT DD Pro "mode", start with ps5 in rest mode, drivehub unplugged from ps5, wheelbase off. Plug in the drivehub, then turn on the wheelbase and let it calibrate itself and wait for the numbers to flash on the screen. Then turn on the ps5 using the button on the front of the console. Now if you go into gt7 and go into a race or event or whatever, then into controller settings -> button configuration. You should see this:
F580DE14-8CE7-4B4D-B6CD-F9EDE319BAC0.jpeg


Now, this is where it gets interesting. In this mode prior to update 1.15, the FFB would be very strong. Now, it suffers from the same "issue" that the actual GT DD Pro does since the update. FFB will be very weak, but at max torque 10/sensitivity 1, and then FF 100 and FOR 120 on the wheel settings I find it totally fine and actually really enjoyable. Noticeably more detail than pre-update.


For CSL Elite "mode", we will start the same way (this is necessary to switch between "modes"). Console in rest mode, wheelbase off, drivehub unplugged from console. Now, plug in drivehub, then turn on the console using the button on the front. Wait for the console to get to the screen where you click on your profile picture, then turn on the wheelbase. Let it do its calibration, then use the buttons on the wheelbase to select your profile and go into GT7. Now, if you go into a race and go to controller settings -> button configuration, you should now see this screen:
83A3DCE4-688C-446D-B220-FA082B4C230F.jpeg


Prior to update 1.15, doing this would result in the wheel having what seems to me to be roughly 30-40% less FFB strength than the other mode, even with all the same settings on the wheel and in game. Now, post-update, this mode feels exactly the same as it did before the update, and therefore has much stronger FFB strength than in GT DD Pro mode. It's not as much as GT DD Pro mode pre-update, but for those who currently find their wheel lacking FFB strength, you should be much happier in this CSL Elite mode (but make sure to turn FOR back down to 100 and max torque to lower than 10 in this mode!)


I'm still not sure what exactly it is that makes this occur, or even if this was done on purpose or accidentally by the drivehub developers, but it's very useful. It functions essentially identically to the compatibility mode on the DD fanatec wheelbases, which almost makes me think this is a purposeful feature, but it could just be a coincidence. It is perfectly replicable for me now, the error I was making that I had mentioned before in a previous post was not turning off/rest mode the console and unplugging the drivehub before trying to switch modes.
 
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I wonder if the handbrake deadzone was also changed with the latest update?
I noticed my Fanatec handbrake not returning to 0% after using it, therefore making it impossible to start moving after a stop.
There is some play in the handbrake, which I guess causes it, but this hasn't been an issue before.
 
Migeta22
I'm also running the T300RS with but with Heusinkveld ultimate pedals through Drivehub on PS5 and I have my force feedback set at 8 so it overheats and feedback will decrease. I've been leaving the cover off with another usb fan blowing at it and that helps alot.

I've never experienced a complete cut-out. Have you updated the firmware on T300RS?
Click to expand...
So I don't have any cooling issues as I use the wheel in iRacing all the time with far stronger FFB than GT7 can provide with no issues. I typically race 40 minute races in iRacing and don't have an issue. Definitely not a cooling problem.
Yes I have updated the firmware. It's always at the most current version because I most race on PC. I just don't understand why it constantly cuts out but it's not useable at all.
 
ghostf1re
I have seen no posts about this, but I have not been able to get the Drivehub to work properly since GT7 came out. I'm on PS5 with a T300RS and Fanatec CSL pedals. The FFB constantly cuts out. Sometimes it will last for 5 minutes. Sometimes 20 minutes, but it always cuts out. It's entirely random but never happens mid-race. I could restart, change screens, change cars, etc. Each one of those will kill the FFB. This normally forces me to quit out of the game, unplug the wheel, or a combination of the two. Sometimes this doesn't work unless I do it 3-4 times. The game is essentially unplayable for me because of this. Is anyone else experiencing this or has anyone else fixed this issue? I completely regret my purchase of the Drivehub and wish I could get a refund at this point. I'm currently on 2.0.8 beta 11. I have tried several versions and the result is always the same. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
I have this same issue with the TM 500RS. As you noted, the FFb never cuts out mid-race... only between races/trials, etc. It randomly goes between events... and then randomly comes back between events. No real method to the madness that can detect.
 
ghostf1re
I have seen no posts about this, but I have not been able to get the Drivehub to work properly since GT7 came out. I'm on PS5 with a T300RS and Fanatec CSL pedals. The FFB constantly cuts out. Sometimes it will last for 5 minutes. Sometimes 20 minutes, but it always cuts out. It's entirely random but never happens mid-race. I could restart, change screens, change cars, etc. Each one of those will kill the FFB. This normally forces me to quit out of the game, unplug the wheel, or a combination of the two. Sometimes this doesn't work unless I do it 3-4 times. The game is essentially unplayable for me because of this. Is anyone else experiencing this or has anyone else fixed this issue? I completely regret my purchase of the Drivehub and wish I could get a refund at this point. I'm currently on 2.0.8 beta 11. I have tried several versions and the result is always the same. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

U2Edge
I have this same issue with the TM 500RS. As you noted, the FFb never cuts out mid-race... only between races/trials, etc. It randomly goes between events... and then randomly comes back between events. No real method to the madness that can detect.
Click to expand...

(Response to both of you): Are you using the hori mini controller plugged into the drivehub?
 
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Goshin2568
This has been driving me crazy so I actually spent like 3 hours today testing and I think I've got it figured out. For reference this is gt7 on a csw 2.5, xbox hub, ps5, drivehub on beta 12. I'm not sure if this works with any other combination. This is a wall of text but if you use a CSW and drivehub I promise it's worth a read, especially if you're having FFB issues post update.


So, basically, you have the option for the game to see your wheel as either a GT DD Pro or as a CSL Elite. This matters, because the game handles FFB very differently depending on which wheel it sees the csw as. If any of y'all with a CSW and drivehub end up trying this, please let me know what your experience is. But make sure to follow the directions closely when it comes to unplugging and turning stuff on, there is a pretty specific sequence and skipping or doing anything out of order can stop the "mode switch" from happening.


For GT DD Pro "mode", start with ps5 in rest mode, drivehub unplugged from ps5, wheelbase off. Plug in the drivehub, then turn on the wheelbase and let it calibrate itself and wait for the numbers to flash on the screen. Then turn on the ps5 using the button on the front of the console. Now if you go into gt7 and go into a race or event or whatever, then into controller settings -> button configuration. You should see this:View attachment 1154530

Now, this is where it gets interesting. In this mode prior to update 1.15, the FFB would be very strong. Now, it suffers from the same "issue" that the actual GT DD Pro does since the update. FFB will be very weak, but at max torque 10/sensitivity 1, and then FF 100 and FOR 120 on the wheel settings I find it totally fine and actually really enjoyable. Noticeably more detail than pre-update.


For CSL Elite "mode", we will start the same way (this is necessary to switch between "modes"). Console in rest mode, wheelbase off, drivehub unplugged from console. Now, plug in drivehub, then turn on the console using the button on the front. Wait for the console to get to the screen where you click on your profile picture, then turn on the wheelbase. Let it do its calibration, then use the buttons on the wheelbase to select your profile and go into GT7. Now, if you go into a race and go to controller settings -> button configuration, you should now see this screen:View attachment 1154531

Prior to update 1.15, doing this would result in the wheel having what seems to me to be roughly 30-40% less FFB strength than the other mode, even with all the same settings on the wheel and in game. Now, post-update, this mode feels exactly the same as it did before the update, and therefore has much stronger FFB strength than in GT DD Pro mode. It's not as much as GT DD Pro mode pre-update, but for those who currently find their wheel lacking FFB strength, you should be much happier in this CSL Elite mode (but make sure to turn FOR back down to 100 and max torque to lower than 10 in this mode!)


I'm still not sure what exactly it is that makes this occur, or even if this was done on purpose or accidentally by the drivehub developers, but it's very useful. It functions essentially identically to the compatibility mode on the DD fanatec wheelbases, which almost makes me think this is a purposeful feature, but it could just be a coincidence. It is perfectly replicable for me now, the error I was making that I had mentioned before in a previous post was not turning off/rest mode the console and unplugging the drivehub before trying to switch modes.
Click to expand...
Now i got the DD Pro.
In PS mode the game sees the DD Pro ofcourse.
In compatibility mode, the game sees the wheel as a CSL Elite.
 
peter_hu
gg
I am curious, do you still need hori mini-pad if your wheel is T-GT which is directly compatible with PS5?
Click to expand...
I don't think so. You won't need the Drivehub if your wheel can natively connect to GT7. Unless you are using an off brand set of pedals.
 
U2Edge
I have this same issue with the TM 500RS. As you noted, the FFb never cuts out mid-race... only between races/trials, etc. It randomly goes between events... and then randomly comes back between events. No real method to the madness that can detect.
Click to expand...
I've mentioned this a while back, it seems that if you press the accelerator pedal before the timer reaches 1 you loose FFB. Can you please try it and see if you have the same bug ? (I have the same config as you do)

Here's the link: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/drive-hub-racing-wheel-converter.358306/page-82#post-13645358

LE: i know it sounds silly and weird, but i swear it's like this for me:) (haven't tested with the latest GT7 update though)
 
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F1nutcase
I don't think so. You won't need the Drivehub if your wheel can natively connect to GT7. Unless you are using an off brand set of pedals.
Click to expand...
Yes, sorry I should have indicated that I would want to use TGT and Heusinkveld sprint with PS5 via Drivehub. F1nutcase, do you think I still need hori mini controller? Will plugging in TGT through controller port and pedal through accessory port work?
 
peter_hu
Yes, sorry I should have indicated that I would want to use TGT and Heusinkveld sprint with PS5 via Drivehub. F1nutcase, do you think I still need hori mini controller? Will plugging in TGT through controller port and pedal through accessory port work?
Click to expand...
Yep, your primo pedal set will force you to use the Drivehub. And you will likely have to plug them directly into the drivehub as well for them to be recognized and sorted. I think the wired Hori mini controller(PSN Licensed) is the only way to successfully use the drivehub on PS5. I had just used a PS4 controller for the longest time on the PS4 using the drivehub no problem. But the PS5 would spit out the drivehub connection after 10min with horrifying results. Hori mini controller solved that. Somebody else is having issues using a PS5 controller with Drivehub. I think there is some coding in the PS5 that's trying to foul devices like Drivehub. That coding is assumed missing in the Hori controller. If you're having troubles with Drivehub connections start by replacing the controller with the Hori. It's only $20bucks or so on Amazon
 
F1nutcase
Yep, your primo pedal set will force you to use the Drivehub. And you will likely have to plug them directly into the drivehub as well for them to be recognized and sorted. I think the wired Hori mini controller(PSN Licensed) is the only way to successfully use the drivehub on PS5. I had just used a PS4 controller for the longest time on the PS4 using the drivehub no problem. But the PS5 would spit out the drivehub connection after 10min with horrifying results. Hori mini controller solved that. Somebody else is having issues using a PS5 controller with Drivehub. I think there is some coding in the PS5 that's trying to foul devices like Drivehub. That coding is assumed missing in the Hori controller. If you're having troubles with Drivehub connections start by replacing the controller with the Hori. It's only $20bucks or so on Amazon
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for your detailed clarification! I really appreciated it!~
I will go ahead and order Hori controller as you suggested.

Side question:
Do you know what's the current state of drivehub with PS5?
I am aware that there were force feedback issue (e.g. no feedback/bland feeling on the curb) and issue with frame rate dropping to 10-15 often. Do they all get addressed and fixed by the newest drivehub firmware update?

Sorry for these naive question. I am still patiently waiting for the drivehub and Hori to be shipped 😃
 
gainusha
I've mentioned this a while back, it seems that if you press the accelerator pedal before the timer reaches 1 you loose FFB. Can you please try it and see if you have the same bug ? (I have the same config as you do)

Here's the link: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/drive-hub-racing-wheel-converter.358306/page-82#post-13645358

LE: i know it sounds silly and weird, but i swear it's like this for me:) (haven't tested with the latest GT7 update though)
Click to expand...
The latest GT7 update hosed FFB for certain wheels -- and one of them that they nerfed it on is the T-GT... which our 500RS wheels emulate through the DriveHub (at least with the latest DriveHub firmware). So testing it now wouldn't show us much (unless they've already resolved it).

Heading to bed, but I'll try to remember to give it a whirl Friday to see if the FFB is back ... at all.
 
gainusha
I've mentioned this a while back, it seems that if you press the accelerator pedal before the timer reaches 1 you loose FFB. Can you please try it and see if you have the same bug ? (I have the same config as you do)

Here's the link: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/drive-hub-racing-wheel-converter.358306/page-82#post-13645358

LE: i know it sounds silly and weird, but i swear it's like this for me:) (haven't tested with the latest GT7 update though)
Click to expand...
I tried it today and the FFB was "dead fish" -- but that's due to the recent GT7 update.

For what it's worth, I tried accelerating before AND after the countdown ended. No joy in either scenario. Once they fix FFB for the Thrustmater T-GT (that DriveHub is emulating), I'll see if it makes a difference.
 
Forgive me if this has been discussed already and I missed it... I use a TS PC with TLCM pedals and TH8A shifter. Drivehub has worked great for me. However, I am considering changing to a TGT2 for native compatibility and am wondering if it would make a huge difference? My drivehub seems to be emulating a T300. Is there a way to change to TGT? I would like to eventually use the SF1000 wheel rim and am not sure my current setup with TS PC and drivehub would support that wheel fully. Anyone happen to know the answer to that? Would save me a lot of money... lol
 
I just bought an Asetek Simsports Invicta brake pedals to use with my Fanatic DD Pro wheel for Playstation 5. Will this combo work with a Drive hub setup to use with Gran Turismo ??
 

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