Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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I noticed with Beta 12 that it shows the modes as 1 or 2 flashing instead of F or L

I didn't try beta 11 so don't know what it does.
I’ve noticed that occur depending on the rim going back to older betas. My Porsche with button module will show F and L, same as the universal hub v2, but Formula V2.5 always showed 1 or 2 instead. This is how it was even with 2.07(non beta).

I do notice now that “USB” flashes on screen before F or L with my Porsche though. That seems new to beta 12.
 
I’ve noticed that occur depending on the rim going back to older betas. My Porsche with button module will show F and L, same as the universal hub v2, but Formula V2.5 always showed 1 or 2 instead. This is how it was even with 2.07(non beta).

I do notice now that “USB” flashes on screen before F or L with my Porsche though. That seems new to beta 12.
McLaren V2 and P1 rims have always shown F or L previously.
 
I got the csw V2.5 with a McLaren, a Clubsport BMW, and a Gran turismo rim, V3 pedals on a ps4 pro.

For me its like this.

When i start my PS first and then the base, a 1showing in my display.
The FFB and sensitivity is realy low.

When i start my base first, a F apears in the display.
The FFB and sensitivity is good. Even feel the curbs.

Its not there where it should be, but i sure enjoy the ride again.

Sidenote,
When i start up my base with the Gran turismo rim, the FFB is not as good as with the otter 2.
 
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I got the csw V2.5 with a McLaren, a Clubsport BMW, and a Gran turismo rim, V3 pedals on a ps4 pro.

For me its like this.

When i start my PS first and then the base, a 1showing in my display.
The FFB and sensitivity is realy low.

When i start my base first, a F apears in the display.
The FFB and sensitivity is good. Even feel the curbs.

Its not there where it should be, but i sure enjoy the ride again.

Sidenote,
When i start up my base with the Gran turismo rim, the FFB is not as good as with the otter 2.
Alright I'm super confused. For reference I have a CSW 2.5 with the v1 xbox universal hub and drivehub running beta 12, playing GT7 on PS5.

I've always turned my console on first and then my wheelbase, so this post piqued my interest. I tried turning the wheelbase on first, then the console, and it is a dramatic difference. The wheel has close the twice the power with all the exact same settings. I had to turn down the FF to 60-65 to match the FFB strength I got at FF 100 when I turned the console on first. All other wheel settings the same, max torque and sensitivity on GT7 the same. Fanatec mode in both cases.

Anyone have any clue what's going on here?? Is this specific to the CSW 2.5, or is this a thing with every wheel on the drivehub? How has no one noticed this before?


(I will add, as far as I can tell this doesn't have anything to do with it showing F/L or 1/2. I have it in fanatec mode obviously, and on my universal hub it shows F either way, whether I turn on wheel first or console first.)
 
CSW 2.5
McLaren V2
PS4 Pro
Hmm. Same wheelbase, same game, same firmware. Meaning the difference in our experiences is either the console (I have a PS5) or the wheel rim (xbox universal hub v1). I wonder which it is..


Because there's no way you wouldn't notice. It was an absolutely massive difference, and since I posted that I've tested some more and it's consistent, not a one time weird thing.
 
:) someone with csw wheelbase 2.5 on beta 12 and before beta 8?
Because Iam on beta 8 and I want to know if the ffb feeling is better with 12 or it's not worth to Update/destroy my actual feeling.
 
Force feedback feel is very personal - why not just try the latest firmware version for yourself and rollback if you don't like it; all the Drivehub versions are on their website and easy to choose from and it takes less than 2 mins to switch versions; takes longer to reboot the console or PC :)
 
Hi.
Is anyone playing F1 2021 on PS5 with CSL DD? I struggle to make this game working when my wheel is in Fanatec mode, it only works in Logitech mode. F1 game does not recognise buttons and gets stuck on the title screen with a message "Press Options Button". I have to switch to Logitech mode so I can get to the main menu. Obviously the game sees my wheel as G29.

All other games (GTS, AC) work fine in Fanatec mode. My Drivehub has the latest beta firmware 12, both CSL DD and McLaren GT3 V2 have also the latest drivers installed. The base is in compatibility mode (amber).
 
Is there any solution for decreasing the vibration power in horizon 5 ? I am using ts-pc on xbox series x and no matter what setting i have tried for vibration scale from 0.1 to 10 it does not decrease. It does not take any effect unless i turn it off.
 
Is there any solution for decreasing the vibration power in horizon 5 ? I am using ts-pc on xbox series x and no matter what setting i have tried for vibration scale from 0.1 to 10 it does not decrease. It does not take any effect unless i turn it off.
When I used to play Forza Motorsport with my T300 on drive hub, I found the same issue. Still felt fine with the vibration off, but not sure if the horizon games have the same FFB as motorsport to give you the feeling you want.
 
Oddly enough the FFB on my CSW 2.5 feels totally fine post update. It's supposed to emulate either a CSL elite or GT DD pro with the drivehub (don't remember which), so I'm not sure why it wasn't affected. Maybe it's just the GT DD Pro and the T-GT? Those are the only specific complaints I've seen so far. Maybe the CSL elite and the T300 are fine?
 
Oddly enough the FFB on my CSW 2.5 feels totally fine post update. It's supposed to emulate either a CSL elite or GT DD pro with the drivehub (don't remember which), so I'm not sure why it wasn't affected. Maybe it's just the GT DD Pro and the T-GT? Those are the only specific complaints I've seen so far. Maybe the CSL elite and the T300 are fine?
Same here, no change. CSW 2.5 beta 12, shows as GT DD PRO in GT7.
 
Oddly enough the FFB on my CSW 2.5 feels totally fine post update. It's supposed to emulate either a CSL elite or GT DD pro with the drivehub (don't remember which), so I'm not sure why it wasn't affected. Maybe it's just the GT DD Pro and the T-GT? Those are the only specific complaints I've seen so far. Maybe the CSL elite and the T300 are fine?
Got the 2.5 as well.
With everything max out on wheel and ingame, i feel a little bit.
 
With the compatility mode you still have.
Changing to comparability mode on the DD pro just makes you loss detail.

If u wanna loss detail and have super strong FFB change the drivehub to Logitech mode.

read the fanatec forums already setting to try that improve things.

Main issue is Devs are trying to make FFB work on a range of cars, it's pretty hard to do. Last patch fast cars were too strong and oscillations was really bad and slow cars felt pretty decent. This patch they are improved fast cars, but have now made slower cars feel like they have weak FFB. They need to have a way to change FFB gains per car like other games do, otherwise FFB will always be poor.
 
I have seen no posts about this, but I have not been able to get the Drivehub to work properly since GT7 came out. I'm on PS5 with a T300RS and Fanatec CSL pedals. The FFB constantly cuts out. Sometimes it will last for 5 minutes. Sometimes 20 minutes, but it always cuts out. It's entirely random but never happens mid-race. I could restart, change screens, change cars, etc. Each one of those will kill the FFB. This normally forces me to quit out of the game, unplug the wheel, or a combination of the two. Sometimes this doesn't work unless I do it 3-4 times. The game is essentially unplayable for me because of this. Is anyone else experiencing this or has anyone else fixed this issue? I completely regret my purchase of the Drivehub and wish I could get a refund at this point. I'm currently on 2.0.8 beta 11. I have tried several versions and the result is always the same. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have seen no posts about this, but I have not been able to get the Drivehub to work properly since GT7 came out. I'm on PS5 with a T300RS and Fanatec CSL pedals. The FFB constantly cuts out. Sometimes it will last for 5 minutes. Sometimes 20 minutes, but it always cuts out. It's entirely random but never happens mid-race. I could restart, change screens, change cars, etc. Each one of those will kill the FFB. This normally forces me to quit out of the game, unplug the wheel, or a combination of the two. Sometimes this doesn't work unless I do it 3-4 times. The game is essentially unplayable for me because of this. Is anyone else experiencing this or has anyone else fixed this issue? I completely regret my purchase of the Drivehub and wish I could get a refund at this point. I'm currently on 2.0.8 beta 11. I have tried several versions and the result is always the same. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm also running the T300RS with but with Heusinkveld ultimate pedals through Drivehub on PS5 and I have my force feedback set at 8 so it overheats and feedback will decrease. I've been leaving the cover off with another usb fan blowing at it and that helps alot.

I've never experienced a complete cut-out. Have you updated the firmware on T300RS?
 
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