Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar

[GDII]

Ah yes I forget the head was different. That needs a retune and with the other bits you have done. Why is the ECU locked? Was that something you wanted or just what they do?

 

[Punknoodle]

Just the tuners policy. I don't agree with it and I've tried to get it unlocked but alas he won't agree to it. I'll be talking to him again about it when it goes in.

 

[GDII]

I guess they don't want their tunes being played with and people coming back complaining when something goes pop. However you own the ECU and the car and have paid them for their services so having it unlocked should be fine.

 

[Punknoodle]

That is my argument, plus there is a compare function. As soon as he plugs it in, if the tune is different to the last time he tuned it, it warns the tuner and shows all of the changed values. That's his insurance right there. It's not like I can steal the tune either, what works for my engine is completely different to what works on another engine.

It's purely a way for them to guarantee return work and I think it's unethical so I'll be saying something before it gets its retune.

 

[Punknoodle]

I was checking out the old head today and had a close look at the porting performed on the intake side of the head.

It's quite tidy. Compare this with the porting on the new head I've installed on to the engine.

So I'm anticipating the new head won't flow as much as the old one. Hopefully it doesn't hurt the performance too much. Funny that they went to such an effort to do that porting but didn't delete the TVIS butterflies. I did. So it will be interesting to see what it makes with stock porting but with the TVIS butterflies removed which removes some restriction from the actual intake manifold.

 

[GDII]

The castings on the new head look OK apart from the joins in the mold. Remember that the rough casting bumps can produce an air cushion which makes air flow over this cushion faster due to less restriction. Less important in a turbo application but more important in an NA.

 

[Punknoodle]

The castings on the new head look OK apart from the joins in the mold. Remember that the rough casting bumps can produce an air cushion which makes air flow over this cushion faster due to less restriction. Less important in a turbo application but more important in an NA.

Yeah, I've actually heard you don't want a polished port. It was more that knife edging on the divider and the Port matching, but yeah, I don't think it will make much difference.

Noticing a couple of other small differences between the N/A head and the turbo head. The N/A head has an egr port I'm going to need to blank off with a piece of flat steel and sealant. Also, the design around the camshaft seals is different, so the plate that bolts on to the head for the timing gear requires slight modification, but it's not a huge deal I don't think.

 

[Punknoodle]

Loosely hung the turbo in place tonight so I could check clearances of the exhaust to the sump, plus the oil return from the turbo, as the old sump has a straight inlet where the new one has a 90 degree inlet.

Exhaust clears, it's a good fit. As for the turbo return, this is what it looks like:

And this is looking directly at it from the front (phone held in front of radiator)

So, as you can see, the vertical angle is pretty much spot on, it's just that it angles off toward the front of the car. So I need to rotate it.

I guess the easiest option would be to cut the pipe square on the part that runs vertically then rotate it to the correct angle, and reweld or braise it back on. Not too major, just a bit of a pain. It will look pretty tidy when it's done though, and because it will hug the block, it leaves a bit of room for the electric water pump which is going to sit down there.

As you can see, the plate that goes on the head behind the timing belt now fits, it just needed a bit of clearance grinding in the corner to allow for the different shape of the head.

I dropped off the water hard lines to the local radiator guy, he's going to braze them up for me where I crimped the ends closed, so as soon as I get them back (likely tomorrow) and painted I'll be able to fit them.

 

[Punknoodle]

The Greddy sandwich adapter with in built thermostat arrived today, along with the permacool spin on blanking top. Fitted them up, looks tidy I think.

Also, the hard lines are done and I'm getting the oil return line changed by the same guy, they should all be ready tomorrow ready to bolt on.

Unfortunately I have to stop buying things for a while, I had to pay to get a root canal on my tooth today so that took up a sizeable chunk of funds! I still have plenty to do though without needing to buy anything:

- Drill hole in oil pan for temp sensor and weld bung in place, paint and fit
- Fit camshafts, cam pulleys, cam seals and timing belt and covers
- Bolt on hard lines, intake manifold, fuel injectors and rail, turbo, alternator, any hoses, vacuum lines etc
- Refit exhaust and engine crossmember
- Run wiring for new sensors and water pump
- Remove bumper and design ducting for radiator
- Design swirl tank and coolant neck

Still to buy:
- Oil cooler and lines
- New sensors
- Water pump
- Fabrication of custom swirl tank and neck
- Sundries such as new hoses and clamps where required
- Retune

 

[MidnightRun85]

The Greddy sandwich adapter with in built thermostat arrived today, along with the permacool spin on blanking top. Fitted them up, looks tidy I think.

Also, the hard lines are done and I'm getting the oil return line changed by the same guy, they should all be ready tomorrow ready to bolt on.

Unfortunately I have to stop buying things for a while, I had to pay to get a root canal on my tooth today so that took up a sizeable chunk of funds! I still have plenty to do though without needing to buy anything:

- Drill hole in oil pan for temp sensor and weld bung in place, paint and fit
- Fit camshafts, cam pulleys, cam seals and timing belt and covers
- Bolt on hard lines, intake manifold, fuel injectors and rail, turbo, alternator, any hoses, vacuum lines etc
- Refit exhaust and engine crossmember
- Run wiring for new sensors and water pump
- Remove bumper and design ducting for radiator
- Design swirl tank and coolant neck

Still to buy:
- Oil cooler and lines
- New sensors
- Water pump
- Fabrication of custom swirl tank and neck
- Sundries such as new hoses and clamps where required
- Retune

I love that you're doing pretty much all the work yourself. Very impressive!!

 

[Punknoodle]

I love that you're doing pretty much all the work yourself. Very impressive!!

Yeah it's quite enjoyable going in to the garage and tinkering away, plus I think the satisfaction of seeing the results when it comes to taking it to the track will be really high, knowing that I did it pretty much all myself through a bit of research etc.

 

[Punknoodle]

Intake manifold and fuel rail back on. You can see the new revised water hard line as well.

The Gen 2 turbo support bracket doesn't properly work with the CT20B turbo, the thread for the bolt doesn't like up with the bracket. Most people (like myself prior to this) just simply install the bracket without the bolt and just let the turbo sit on it, letting the manifold do all the work in holding it in place.

I didn't want to do that again though, I wanted to have it securely mounted. So I cut away at the bracket ready to weld on a new section of angle that extends out to where the thread is so I can bolt it.

You can kind of see parts of a circle on the bracket where I've cut away, well the centre of that circle is where the old hole was. The turbo thread sits about 20mm sideways, and there isn't enough bracket out that way to drill a new hole to bolt it.

So fired up the BBQ to preheat the cast (or else it cracks) and then welded it. After cleaning it up and painting it it turned out ok, not the prettiest welding but looks to have good penetration and didn't crack the cast so it should be strong. Just needs a hole drilled once I sit it in place and see a here it needs to be.

That's it for today I think.

 

[GDII]

That's starting to come together nicely.

I too wouldn't want the bracket just sitting on the block, Toyota put it there for a reason and it's size suggests it's quite important.

 

[Punknoodle]

Monster oil cooler dummied up in to position and sorting out how to nicely run the AN-10 lines to it. Hose length will only be about 600mm there and 600mm back, pretty much straight too with only one bend, to ensure the least pressure drop. I bought straight hose ends but I'll need to return them and get angled ones instead.

Still lots of exposed radiator for water temps too. Should be good. Once I bolt this in to position properly I'll start working on the ducting.

 

[Punknoodle]

Spent a few hours in the garage today. Got the oil cooler mounted securely, looks freaking awesome. A bit overkill me thinks.

I'm debating with myself whether I should paint the heat exchanger for my charge cooler black while I have the bumper off. Not sure if it's worth the hassle. Here's a shot to look at and imagine it being black..

Thoughts?

Anyway, also did a couple of other jobs I've been meaning to do. Cut up my turbo water hard line to remove all the redundant stuff off it (it doubled as a support bracket for a section of radiator hose that went from the neck to the radiator, no longer used). Looks much simpler now and just goes that bit further to tidy and simplify the engine bay.

That bracket that I welded the other day, I test fitted it to the block with the turbo on it and marked where I needed to trim it and drill a hole, then cut it. Fits extremely well and should be strong as it's angle section that I welded so is joined not only at the top but down the side, directly where the load will be on it.

It's back off now and painted.

And finally while I had the turbo semi mounted I placed the down pipe to check clearance to the sandwich adapter. Was confident it would fit nicely due to the factory oil cooler being gone and indeed it's a nice fit, heaps of space, a lot more than before where the filter sat about 4mm from the down pipe.

So after that I needed to clean my garage. I had tools and parts all over the bloody place and I needed to organise it. I hate working in clutter and like having everything away in its place so after spending 2 hours sorting it all out I feel much better! Now there is nothing under the car or in the engine bay that isn't bolted on and all my tools are back away and the parts waiting to go back on are organised on my bench.

Speaking of my bench, I think my next project won't actually be car related, but for my bench instead. I managed to score a large piece of zinc plated steel sheet with a roll already on one edge to form a bench front that was going to be thrown out so I'm going to cut it the same size as the bench top and install it over top. Metal bench tops are so handy, they clean easier, you can weld on them and they just look nicer. I'll have enough left over to make the backing for the bench and on that I'll be able to hang little parts bins and probably a shadow board for spanners etc. My bench made of scraps (apart from the vice) is getting better and better. Just need a bench grinder.

 

[Punknoodle]

Brilliant day today! Had the day off, it was sunny, home alone, just chilling in my garage with door up, The Rock (NZ radio station) streaming through my phone and Bluetooth speaker and getting stuff done on the car.

Lots of progress.

Firstly, I made off the hoses to connect the oil cooler to the adapter. It was a bit of a pain getting them just the right length but quite satisfying. They look rad when they are made.

I had to clearance the hole a little bit to get the hoses to sit nicely.

Then after cleaning out the hoses by running water through them then blowing them out with compressed air I fitted them up on to the car.

After that I thought I would reinstall the lines on to the turbo and then mount it back up. So I did.

And here are some close ups of the new bracket and also how the oil hard line lines up.

Still a fair bit of room to mount the electric water pump.

That might be it for the day I think. Still waiting on a new timing belt, have to fit the cam seals, pulleys etc. That's the next job. Oil pan can go on too, just waiting on someone to weld on the boss for the oil temp sensor on to it first, then repaint.

 

[Punknoodle]

Shameless plug, but I created a bit of a fun page on Facebook for stuff to do with the car and racing stuff in general. I think Facebook makes for a good dynamic platform in which to discuss stuff like this, so if you want to check it out go to this page:
https://m.facebook.com/Dukesracecarengineering/

 

[SVX]

Liked 👍

 

[Punknoodle]

Got the cam seals in (was an absolute nightmare due to location of engine), cam pulleys on and torqued, idler no. 2 on an torqued, and the cylinder head cover on. Went to fit the new Gen 3 timing belt but I've hit a bit of a road block..

The gen 2 lower timing cover doesn't fit on the gen 3 pump...

So I've been searching for a replacement one, pretty hard to come by unfortunately, but I did find one in Germany so I just have to contact them and see what we can work out. I'll try Toyota Parts on Monday but I doubt I'll have much luck

 

[GDII]

You might struggle to find one in NZ, not that many GEN 3 turbo engines floating around. Unless the 3SGE one works then we have heaps.

I can't remember what people do when they make GEN2/3 hybrids but you could try PM pureadrenaline on the MR2 forum and ask.

 

[Punknoodle]

You might struggle to find one in NZ, not that many GEN 3 turbo engines floating around. Unless the 3SGE one works then we have heaps.

I can't remember what people do when they make GEN2/3 hybrids but you could try PM pureadrenaline on the MR2 forum and ask.

Yeah I asked him about the drilling of the block for the sump. Can't really get away without using it as the timing marks are on the cover. I would think the 94-97 3SGE one is the same, so one of them would likely work quite well. I have the Toyota part number which is 11321-88460 and it looks like that fits the red top BEAMS engine too. Confident I'll find one just gotta wait till Monday really so I can ring around.

 

[GDII]

That's probably the way to go. The GEN4 BEAMS engines pretty much the same sump and block with an updated head. There are RED and BLACK/GREY top BEAMS GEN4 engines.

Black/Grey Top GEN4 from a Caldina or RAV4.

 

[Punknoodle]

Mmmm beams. When it's time for a fresh ground up build if I still have the car I'd like to start with a Beams and turbo it.

Anyway, I digress. Think I may have already found a cover

 

[Punknoodle]

I have a timing cover on the way from the UK of all places!

I can't do the timing belt until it arrives so today I decided to turn my attention to the oil catch can.

I did have it mounted where the old charcoal filter used to be but I never liked that location as it was a pain to check or drain. I also used to use a heavy braided line for looks but I didn't want to go down that route again. Keep it simple.

I also don't think it was working too well. I would still get a film of oil in the intake pipe over time; the can is just a simple Mishimoto item with no baffling so it's probably no surprise it didn't work too well.

So, pulled it apart. Got some stainless steel wool and cut up an old stocking to ensure no stray bits could get loose and go up the pipe.

This acts as both a baffle and also gives the oil mist something to condense on. Hopefully this helps. I never really got a build up of oil in it before so I'll see how it goes. Put it back together and mounted it in a new location, which makes it easier to check and drain and also leaves room for the new swirl header tank.

Clear hose so you can see what's going on. It will go yuck and brown over time but it's cheap and easy to replace.

I was considering just putting a breather filter on the outlet side of the can and blocking off the feed into the intake pipe, but I've read that it's better for the crankcase ventilation on a turbocharged vehicle to have it on the intake pipe. I'll see if it works OK but if that pipe to the intake still gets oily I'll probably switch to a breather filter.

 

[GDII]

Looking good. Glad you found a timing cover. The Gen 2 uses the oil pump for setting timing as you probably know so no need for the cover to set it. I did a GEN 3 NA a few months ago with the help from a mate but I only did the top half of the timing belt while he did the bottom. The GEN 3 belts have nice little marks showing where to line things up.

I think the catch can design isn't quite ideal even with the baffle. What you need is to force the intake pipe to go below the steel wool. Effectively all you have done is shrink the size of the can. The oil vapour will just get sucked from the valve cover, over the top of the steel wool into the intake pipe. You need to do this to get it to actually work.
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.html

 

[Punknoodle]

Looking good. Glad you found a timing cover. The Gen 2 uses the oil pump for setting timing as you probably know so no need for the cover to set it. I did a GEN 3 NA a few months ago with the help from a mate but I only did the top half of the timing belt while he did the bottom. The GEN 3 belts have nice little marks showing where to line things up.

I think the catch can design isn't quite ideal even with the baffle. What you need is to force the intake pipe to go below the steel wool. Effectively all you have done is shrink the size of the can. The oil vapour will just get sucked from the valve cover, over the top of the steel wool into the intake pipe. You need to do this to get it to actually work.
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.html

Yeah you are probably right, however I've read that the steel wool helps simply by giving the oil mist something to condense on to. I might have to pull it apart again and do something like that.

I really don't like that there is nothing over top of the steel wool in his mod though, if a little bit was to come loose it would go straight up the pipe and through the engine.

The timing is not off the oil pump on a gen 2, it's off the crank, same as the gen 3 (and pretty much every other engine). The harmonic balancer has the timing mark on it and the cover has the degree marks on it. Reason I can't fit the belt without the cover is because the harmonic balancer needs to go on on top of the cover and the I need to turn the crank to 0 degrees and then fit the belt to the cams at 0 degrees.

I'm using a gates gen 3 belt so I don't have those handy little marks but you don't need them if you just set everything to 0 degrees and rotate the engine a couple of times to verify everyhing lines up the same after you fit the belt.

 

[GDII]

I know what you mean about trying to contain the wool from escaping but how I see it with your current mod is that when the engine is running the oil vapour will just get sucked right over the top of the wool from the in port to the out port and not have time for it to condense. You need to be sucking through a baffle to get it to be effective.

Sorry, what I meant is you can use the crank gear the belt runs on to match with a mark on the oil pump cover. ie the aluminium front cover on the engine rather than the small pump plate and free wheeling gear. I see what you mean about needing the cover for the GEN3. Toyotas RM396E repair manual shows it that way.

 

[Punknoodle]

Yes, completely agree with you about needing to separate the in and out. I was thinking of making an aluminium plate that is a neat fit between the 2 ports that goes down to the top of the steel wool. I can do that fairly easily. Next weekend's job perhaps. That way I can keep the filter material over the wool.

I understand what you mean now about the pump, I thought you meant the pump pulley. As you can see, my gen 3 pump has no timing marks on the pump (or pulley)

 

[GDII]

It does actually. See that little nub (on the oil pump) just to the left of the top tooth with the spot on it? That is TDC on cylinder number one. If the crank in that photo is turned anticlockwise less than half a tooth it would be where you need it to be.

EDIT: Added more info in brackets.

 

[Punknoodle]

So the recess that I've circled indicates TDC of number one? As in line the dot up to the middle of that recess?