Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar

[GDII]

Yeah I'm pretty sure that is correct. I'll check with my mate who has done far more with the GEN3 engines than I have.

 

[Punknoodle]

I'd appreciate it thanks

 

[GDII]

I've sent him a PM. I should hopefully hear back tomorrow.
Either way, the GEN2 pump has a tiny little nub in the same place as the GEN3 larger nub.
GEN 2 http://www.primemr2.com/store/p236/Oil_pump_assembly_-_Gen2.html
GEN 3 http://www.primemr2.com/store/p189/Oil_pump_assembly_-_Gen3.html

 

[Punknoodle]

Thanks. Obviously I can always do the socket extension down the spark plug hole trick and feel for TDC, which would probably be accurate enough to get it to the correct tooth. But would rather go off marks. All good, no hurry, still a while away from being able to turn it over properly anyway.

 

[Punknoodle]

@GDII I've further improved my internal baffle design for the catch can.

Here is the first prototype:

It simply fits inside the top of the can, like this:

And when inserted in the actual can, it's long enough that it presses in to the centre of the steel wool:

Meaning the flow has to run through the steel wool and thus condensate, and I don't have to get rid of the filter material either. I'll just make sure the edge that presses against it is bent over to ensure it doesn't rub through.

It will kind sit like this, however tightening the top to the can will compress the plate in to the steel wool:

I have some spare thin aluminium sheet that I'll use to make it, and seal around the top of the can using the same oil resistant sealant I've used on the sump (Loctite BlueMaxx). It doesn't need to hold it totally strong, as it's going to be a flush fit and the steel wool pressing against it will hold it in place for the most part.

I'll mark the indicator on the side with the level that the baffle stops at, not that I expect it to reach that level at all.

 

[GDII]

That looks much better. That forces the oil vapor through the steel wool making it condense and get caught providing much cleaner air back to the intake. Perfect.

 

[GDII]

So the recess that I've circled indicates TDC of number one? As in line the dot up to the middle of that recess?

I got a reply back from my mate. He said it's pretty much correct as long as the key way is pointing straight up. When he says straight up that's if the engine was vertical but as you know the 3S leans back a lot. It's best to check it with the cover so best to wait until you get that cover before setting it up for the final time.

 

[Punknoodle]

I got a reply back from my mate. He said it's pretty much correct as long as the key way is pointing straight up. When he says straight up that's if the engine was vertical but as you know the 3S leans back a lot. It's best to check it with the cover so best to wait until you get that cover before setting it up for the final time.

Ah ok thank you. My cover is being sent tomorrow so won't be too far away. Remembered I wanted to keep the belt off for now anyway as I wanted to fit the oil pan (it's getting a fitting welded on by a mate to take the oil temp sensor) and the 2 oil sensors first so I can fill it with oil and spin the oil pump separately with my impact gun to get oil primed through the cooler etc before I actually turn over the engine. I'll still be turning it over without spark plugs or fuel but it's still good practice to spin the pump first.

Gotta go buy a cheap ryco filter and some cheap oil to put through it first to dump after I do the initial coolant bleeding before I put in the good stuff and the Toyota filter. Just to flush anything that may have got in, although I was very careful.

 

[Punknoodle]

Made the proper baffle today out of aluminium. Made it a little longer and also put a curve at the bottom to compensate for the shape of the steel wool bag in there.

Here's how it looks pressed down to where it will sit:

And fitted in to the lid, with sealant holding it in place and filling up the gaps:

The clearance as it goes down in to the can is quite tight. I can't apply sealant down there so it will just have to do.

Also made something else today. My replacement head has an EGR port, unlike my old one, so I had to make a little blanking plate.

Used some of that handy signage plastic stuff again to make a template (black pen around the bolt holes was from when I was transferring the mounting hole positions on to the template) then made the proper one out of some stainless plate.

And here it is held in to position:

Some copper rtv sealant and nice new bolts and it's ready to go.

I'm planning or removing my drivers seat tonight in order to measure up the space. Decided that I want to run a better seat, harness bar and harness. I'll also look at upgrading my helmet to one with HANS posts and run a HANS device.

Currently looking at the Sparco Sprint, as it's a very affordable option that is still FIA approved. It's a steel frame one but isn't really any heavier than the fibreglass ones, it's just that apparently they aren't as comfortable. I sat in one today, feels perfectly fine for me even compared to the fibreglass EVO model I sat in as well, at half the price.

 

[GTP_Ingram]

Currently looking at the Sparco Sprint, as it's a very affordable option that is still FIA approved. It's a steel frame one but isn't really any heavier than the fibreglass ones, it's just that apparently they aren't as comfortable. I sat in one today, feels perfectly fine for me even compared to the fibreglass EVO model I sat in as well, at half the price.

I have a Sparco Sprint seat. I originally bought it for a track project, but now it's part of my gaming setup. The only thing I would say against it is that it doesn't offer much lumbar support - there's no solid backrest because of the steel frame, only some elastic strapping. It's fine most of the time, but I reckon any stints longer than an hour in the seat might get a little sore.

 

[Punknoodle]

I have a Sparco Sprint seat. I originally bought it for a track project, but now it's part of my gaming setup. The only thing I would say against it is that it doesn't offer much lumbar support - there's no solid backrest because of the steel frame, only some elastic strapping. It's fine most of the time, but I reckon any stints longer than an hour in the seat might get a little sore.

Thanks for the feedback, I was hoping there were people with the Sprint who would chime in.

I know what you mean about the lumbar support, I mean I'm using a cheap replica thing for my gaming setup and I don't find that too bad even though it has no lumbar support but after a while it can be uncomfortable. I've spent hours in that at a time though. I don't really plan on doing any long distance stints in the GT-Four, but don't want to cheap out either if it's a massive difference in comfort. But the savings difference is enough to pay for a HANS device and that's significant.

In other news, I reassembled the catch can and blew in to it to see how restrictive it is and I registered barely any resistance so it should work a treat

 

[GDII]

That's great that the catch can works out so far. The plate will definitely help over just the empty can. Nice work. There isn't really a need to seal the sides of the baffle down the can, if it's a tight fit then it will work. Ideally there would be slots in the can for the plate but as it wasn't designed to have the plate there aren't any.

 

[Punknoodle]

Polystyrene and cardboard roll engineering. Dummying up a design for the swirl tank and water outlet.

Hoping I'll get a chance to drop these off to the aluminium fabricator I'm going to use some time next week (A.R.E, they are the ones who did the mods to my charge cooler and did a great job).

The design is maximum size that will fit. If they have smaller tubing off the shelf they can use then it's all good, and if they don't think so much volume is required then same deal, they can make it smaller, I don't have a problem with that. I just thought it best to make something, prove it fits and work backwards.

There will simply be 2 M6 threads on the back of it and once I get it I'll make a bracket to suit, coming off the existing charcoal filter bracket.

In other news, removed the drivers seat, removed the plastic covers around the boot and tidied up some wiring in the car. The old speaker wires I had running around for the amp I've removed, now there is simply 2 speaker wires running from the head unit to the rear speakers. I also tidied the way the one on the opposite side of the vehicle is ran, running under the carpet in front of the rear seat as opposed to behind the rear seat.

Now there is no wiring lying around behind the seats which would have looked crap when the seats were down and I have the harness bar bolted in.

On that note, I've come up with a design I like for the harness bar. Current plan is a hoop that bolts at each of the existing seat belt anchor points behind the front seats, goes up and across at the necessary height for the harnesses, then have a reinforcing vee shape that runs from the centre of the hoop to each strut tower, but won't bolt to the strut tower..

Instead, I'll get a strut brace made up with a tab on it near each strut tower for the harness bar to bolt to. That way the strut brace can stay in place at all times providing an increase in rigidity, and then when required I simply fold down the seats, bolt in the harness bar and run the harness.

I'll get a local roll cage manufacturer to build it, obviously all out of Chrome Moly tubing and to the necessary requirements. No point in using it if it just bends in an accident.

So timeline goes something like this:
Finish engine components
Fit seat and rail
Get car running
Send car off to get tuned
Drive car to roll cage guy to get harness bar built

After that, I'm done (For now.. Brakes after this, but that's another story.)

Money is still tight and I'm still having to save for each and every little thing I want so it'll likely be Christmas before I've got it finished but that's all good. I can see it taking shape and it's exciting! Can't wait to have a test day at QR!

 

[Paulie]

Your build seems so in depth, it's very impressive you're doing most of it yourself. You will easily have one of, if not the, nicest Celicas in Australia.

 

[Punknoodle]

Your build seems so in depth, it's very impressive you're doing most of it yourself. You will easily have one of, if not the, nicest Celicas in Australia.

Paulie! It's been a while bro, how's it going? How's the ute?

Thanks for the kind words mate, I like sweating the small stuff I guess. Makes me think and work things out.

Unfortunately I can't do everything I want to do due to budget constraints, I would have at least liked to have gone with a later gen head but would have had to change a whole lot more stuff and when it comes down to making a bit more power vs having a race seat and harness, I chose the latter.

I can assure you though there are a couple of really impressive builds here in Australia, pushing big power on built 5S blocks (2.2L) with 3SGTE heads, driveline work, custom suspension work, doing hill climbs and track days. Compared to theirs mine is very mild!

 

[GDII]

It might be a mild build but the exterior of the car is so clean! No silly exterior mods that scream track car. It's just a really nice looking road car that's used on the track.

 

[Punknoodle]

Well I dropped my creations off at A.R.E this morning, really looking forward to seeing how they turn out. My one was about 130mm in diameter, he said they have 125mm material in stock which is what they use on GTRs. Bit overkill for my scenario but he said it will work really well and at my level it's not worth worrying about that little bit of extra weight if I have the room for it.

 

[Punknoodle]

Picked up my oil pan and gave it a quick spray. The above thread boss has been added so I'll be able to install a 1/8"NPT temperature sensor.

 

[Paulie]

Paulie! It's been a while bro, how's it going? How's the ute?

Thanks for the kind words mate, I like sweating the small stuff I guess. Makes me think and work things out.

Unfortunately I can't do everything I want to do due to budget constraints, I would have at least liked to have gone with a later gen head but would have had to change a whole lot more stuff and when it comes down to making a bit more power vs having a race seat and harness, I chose the latter.

I can assure you though there are a couple of really impressive builds here in Australia, pushing big power on built 5S blocks (2.2L) with 3SGTE heads, driveline work, custom suspension work, doing hill climbs and track days. Compared to theirs mine is very mild!

Yeah been pretty good, I've been posting on the forums a lot still, just not in the car related sections much lately. I've gotta say I'm back in a workplace with guys that have given me the performance bug a little bit again. I was actually considering splashing some cash on my Ute after so long of leaving it stock. An intake, cats and cams just might get me close to 300rwhp if others' works are anything to go by. Granted I might not actually hit the magical number starting with 3, but I'd get quite a decent gain nonetheless. I'm still researching it though, I don't want to ruin my car's driveability.
To second @GDII's sentiment, big horsepower and big wings for downforce are all well and good to make a car fast, but they don't account for reliability or taste, or make a car good on both the track and the street (because cruising with your mates is fun). Any rich person can throw money at a car, but your attention to detail, the work you've put in yourself and your general good taste make your car great.

I would suggest we go on a cruise, but that presently seems off the table.

 

[Punknoodle]

Yeah been pretty good, I've been posting on the forums a lot still, just not in the car related sections much lately. I've gotta say I'm back in a workplace with guys that have given me the performance bug a little bit again. I was actually considering splashing some cash on my Ute after so long of leaving it stock. An intake, cats and cams just might get me close to 300rwhp if others' works are anything to go by. Granted I might not actually hit the magical number starting with 3, but I'd get quite a decent gain nonetheless. I'm still researching it though, I don't want to ruin my car's driveability.
To second @GDII's sentiment, big horsepower and big wings for downforce are all well and good to make a car fast, but they don't account for reliability or taste, or make a car good on both the track and the street (because cruising with your mates is fun). Any rich person can throw money at a car, but your attention to detail, the work you've put in yourself and your general good taste make your car great.

I would suggest we go on a cruise, but that presently seems off the table.

Good to hear mate. I imagine the aftermarket support for your ute is quite strong? Definitely makes modifying a lot easier. Is there something like an ECUTEK available for it? Might be a good idea if you go with aftermarket cams to ensure it is tuned to give you the best drivability and power as possible.

I'm down for a cruise... Might have to wait a bit though lol.

 

[Paulie]

Good to hear mate. I imagine the aftermarket support for your ute is quite strong? Definitely makes modifying a lot easier. Is there something like an ECUTEK available for it? Might be a good idea if you go with aftermarket cams to ensure it is tuned to give you the best drivability and power as possible.

I'm down for a cruise... Might have to wait a bit though lol.

Yeah, a tune off the factory ECU is essential, even for the cold air intake, the LFX doesn't like change.

 

[Punknoodle]

Oil pan on...

Finally my drawing of the GT-Four has been started! Here's what I've seen so far, I'll show you the final result once it's finished!

 

[GDII]

The sump looks great. The angle and lighting of the photo makes it look like the down pipe won't clear the sump.

The GT-Four drawing looks great. Is the colour all pencil?

 

[Punknoodle]

The sump looks great. The angle and lighting of the photo makes it look like the down pipe won't clear the sump.

The GT-Four drawing looks great. Is the colour all pencil?

Not just the lighting lol. It is very close. Without the pan there is a gap but with the pan installed there is no gap, but it's not an issue. I had to cut a little bit of the lip off..

Don't worry, next section fits on no problem.

Yeah the artist does everything in pencil. It's well worth checking out his other work, you can see it on his Facebook page (just search for "Car Drawings by Cristian Cross".

Here is the current t status, it's still awaiting a fair bit of detail and I'm getting a rear perspective off to the corner done as well which he hasn't started yet:

Dude has some serious talent. There will be a time lapse video of him drawing it when it's done as well, which I'll share.

 

[GDII]

Ha, that is very close.

That drawing is absolutely epic.

 

[Paulie]

Having a drawing of your own car is wicked cool, very nice.👍

 

[Punknoodle]

The gap between my bumper where the heat exchanger is for the intercooler is and the radiator lower support is quite large, and there is no underguarding for it.

Air would go through the heat exchanger and then just go straight down under the car, so the only air the radiator would get would be over top of the heat exchanger and in to the radiator.

Today I made a bit of aluminium plate which goes between the bumper and the lower support. I was hoping it would do the job, but looking at it I'll likely relegate it to being a prototype.

I made it out of some old cable tray lid (perks of the trade lol) but it's only long enough to cover the length of the radiator, not the entire bumper and without making it the entire length and closing up the sides, I think air will flow out the sides instead of up and in to the radiator.

I'll get some more aluminium and use it as a template to make a larger one. I'll get it bent up by someone as it was a pain doing it by hand.

 

[Punknoodle]

Today I went and picked up some more aluminium sheet. This stuff I got is a lot thinner, about 0.4mm, so very light, which is important as the weight is forward of the front wheels.

Got it bent as per the template I made and this afternoon I got to work cutting it out.

It was a bit of a lengthy process, putting it on, taking it off, cutting a bit more, fitting it again and so on and so on. It was worth it though, it came out really, really well.

Had to make holes in it in various places for things to come through but tried to make them as small as possible. These holes can be blocked off somewhat with some 100mph tape.

Looking down from the top. The existing plastic cover will go on and seal off the top, as well.

And inside each of the side vents, the duct work I folded up to try and direct air in to the radiator as well.

I will use some more 100mph tape to smooth it off in here and seal it up.

Pretty confident this will help a great deal. I've hopefully made it so that most of the air entering anywhere in the bumper will make it's way to the radiator and oil cooler.

 

[Punknoodle]

Time lapse video of Cristian drawing it. Unbelievably talented!

 

[Punknoodle]

Cobra Imola S fits nicely Just sitting there for now, I need to buy a rail for it. Bride make a good one, they take a little while to get made though.

Undertray duct final version. Should be the goods I think.

My swirl tank etc should be ready early next week so I'm looking forward to getting them in place. I didn't expect to outlay for the seat so soon but it came up used on Gumtree with harness and side brackets - it's a good seat and figured it was the better option than going with the newer, but steel Sprint seat I was looking at, and having a harness and everything is a bonus so I jumped on it.

So I have to save for a while now!