- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Scary was one way to describe it, I need more sik downforce, maybe that wing from that red ute could be the go??
Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar
- Thread starter Punknoodle
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- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Just a quick update for the sake of it, while the distributer is out getting done I've put the car on stands and set about removing the rack mounts as they were making a creaking noise, got the rubbers out, they were stuffed and getting replacements from Toyota for one of them is impossible. So while I've been hunting the net for alternative replacements I came across multiple threads about a problem the ST185 has with cracking bulkheads (where the rack is bolted to) that starts with a creaking noise.
With the mounts off and the rack moved as far out of the way as I can get it I can't SEE any cracks and everything FEELS normal but obviously that means nothing. So, hopefully once I track down new rubbers and install them the noise goes away, if not the motor needs to be removed (again) and the bulkhead welded up.
I also have all of the bushes for the rear of the car now so after I put the rack back in I'll get to work on the rear.
With the mounts off and the rack moved as far out of the way as I can get it I can't SEE any cracks and everything FEELS normal but obviously that means nothing. So, hopefully once I track down new rubbers and install them the noise goes away, if not the motor needs to be removed (again) and the bulkhead welded up.
I also have all of the bushes for the rear of the car now so after I put the rack back in I'll get to work on the rear.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Ok so I have one new bush for the rack, the other one is en route from Japan, with no guarantee it will be here in time for me to take it down to Bathurst, let alone the Japanese day at Lakeside, so at this stage I am not going to enter. Worst case scenario I have to put the old bush back in to go down to Bathurst, I really hope not though.
I do have my distributer back however, so I put that in tonight, will start it up and adjust timing later on after my friend drops off his timing light.
While the car is jacked and not going anywhere I installed an amp in to the boot to power my four Infinity speakers, the little piddly 4" speakers in the front actually sound alright with the amp powering them! The 6 1/2" ones at the back have improved remarkably too, a lot more bass (although it still needs a sub to really get those nice low tones) and not too screechy.
That'll make the long drive to Bathurst a bit more bearable, as with the speakers being powered off the head unit before it really sounded cheap and tinny.
I may put one mount back on the rack with the new bush and lower the car back down on the front and lift the rear up and get started on the bushes at the rear end while I'm waiting for the rack mount bush.
I don't know why I keep doing this haha, every time I try to fix one area I always end up taking it out of commission for a long time and don't get to go for any cruises in the weekend with it, lucky I have a work vehicle or I'd have to spend a fortune on taxis.
It's worth it to do it properly though, and at the end have something that I know is going to be special. Plus every time I start to use it again it's just that little bit more upgraded and it feels fantastic, absence makes the heart grow fonder, they say.
I do have my distributer back however, so I put that in tonight, will start it up and adjust timing later on after my friend drops off his timing light.
While the car is jacked and not going anywhere I installed an amp in to the boot to power my four Infinity speakers, the little piddly 4" speakers in the front actually sound alright with the amp powering them! The 6 1/2" ones at the back have improved remarkably too, a lot more bass (although it still needs a sub to really get those nice low tones) and not too screechy.
That'll make the long drive to Bathurst a bit more bearable, as with the speakers being powered off the head unit before it really sounded cheap and tinny.
I may put one mount back on the rack with the new bush and lower the car back down on the front and lift the rear up and get started on the bushes at the rear end while I'm waiting for the rack mount bush.
I don't know why I keep doing this haha, every time I try to fix one area I always end up taking it out of commission for a long time and don't get to go for any cruises in the weekend with it, lucky I have a work vehicle or I'd have to spend a fortune on taxis.
It's worth it to do it properly though, and at the end have something that I know is going to be special. Plus every time I start to use it again it's just that little bit more upgraded and it feels fantastic, absence makes the heart grow fonder, they say.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
That is how the car is sitting at the moment. Just need to remove the knuckles and take them and the rods down to the workshop to get the old bushes pressed out and the new ones pressed in.
I am also going to be replacing the brake lines with braided lines before it all goes back togther, as the old ones are a bit stretched where I have had to make those longer brackets that come off the bottom of the struts to allow for the adjustable sway bar. I also noticed a small cut in one of the lines so best not leave that!
While I was taking photos I thought I'd show you one from under the car, showing the exhaust system off.
Still waiting on the bush for the steering rack mount... cross your fingers it gets here soon! Bathurst trip is only about 3 weeks away!
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
My not-so-overnight parts from Japan arrived so I can finally remount the steering rack! But first, reassemble the rear end with the new bushes. Had a big morning working on this before I went to help my mate prep his Bobber for painting. Got the hubs, arms, rotors and calipers reinstalled (notice the new black paint, much better than the ghastly red they were before) so the only thing I have to do now on the rear is get the stainless lines fitted early next week.
(Yes, I realize the main drive nuts and cotter pin aren't in this shot, don't worry about that
) So very soon the rear will go down, the front will come back up for its new rack mount bushes, and I'll take the rotors and calipers off the front to paint them black also and have stainless lines put on them as well. Then its just fluid flush, alignment and its all ready for the Bathurst trip!
(Yes, I realize the main drive nuts and cotter pin aren't in this shot, don't worry about that
) So very soon the rear will go down, the front will come back up for its new rack mount bushes, and I'll take the rotors and calipers off the front to paint them black also and have stainless lines put on them as well. Then its just fluid flush, alignment and its all ready for the Bathurst trip!
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Last night I pulled an all nighter, as the car was booked in for an alignment this morning and didn't have brake lines, front rotors or calipers installed and the strut brace was removed to get to the brake reservoir.
We also had to finish preparing my friend's fuel tank, guards and side panels off his bobber as it was supposed to get painted this morning. So I literally did not go to bed last night.
My friend is a hose fitter so he made me 4 new braided lines, we fitted them after I bolted the calipers and rotors back on, then bled the system with some nice fresh fluid and tested it. All good! We then prepared his bike stuff and then I washed and dried the car to get rid of all the dust that had settled on it while it hasn't been used. What a bloody night.
Anyway, it's all aligned now, feels bloody amazing - best it's ever felt. And there are absolutely no creaks from the suspension any more - just the windscreen that still squeaks, and the clutch squeaks a little when pressing it in but I can't fix that with the gearbox in situ. I probably won't get a chance to get the windscreen resealed before the trip to Mt Panorama, but the noise is only there when it's cold weather, as soon as some heat gets into it it doesn't squeak any more 👍 I'm pretty happy with it.
We also had to finish preparing my friend's fuel tank, guards and side panels off his bobber as it was supposed to get painted this morning. So I literally did not go to bed last night.
My friend is a hose fitter so he made me 4 new braided lines, we fitted them after I bolted the calipers and rotors back on, then bled the system with some nice fresh fluid and tested it. All good! We then prepared his bike stuff and then I washed and dried the car to get rid of all the dust that had settled on it while it hasn't been used. What a bloody night.
Anyway, it's all aligned now, feels bloody amazing - best it's ever felt. And there are absolutely no creaks from the suspension any more - just the windscreen that still squeaks, and the clutch squeaks a little when pressing it in but I can't fix that with the gearbox in situ. I probably won't get a chance to get the windscreen resealed before the trip to Mt Panorama, but the noise is only there when it's cold weather, as soon as some heat gets into it it doesn't squeak any more 👍 I'm pretty happy with it.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
There is a picture of the car as it sat at Shell at around 2.30 am before we set off to Bathurst. I think its quite a nice photo.
Anyway, we are back now, and the car is absolutely filthy, we gave it a quick wash at one of those car wash places but I need to give it a really good wash.
We had one fairly bad encounter though, which has caused damage to the car. It was around 3.30 am on Monday morning and we were heading toward Sydney from Bathurst, I came over a ridge and there was massive roadkill on the road, a Wallaby I think, and I didn't have time to stop, and I couldn't swerve as there was an on coming car. I ended up having to go straight over it, luckily it had obviously been hit a few times before so it wasn't that big any more, my front bumper didn't touch it, I just heard a DING as I went over it. Later that day we pulled over and checked it out, no damage to under car components but on the rear undertray I have a massive crack.
I haven't taken a photo of it, but to give you an idea here is an old rear end shot of the car (old exhaust)
I plan on making a new one, to look more like a diffuser from carbon fibre, that coupled with a carbon fibre lip spoliler down the track would look awesome i reckon. Inspiration:
(It's a 'shop but I'm sure it can be done)
Other than that the car went perfectly, I got so many looks and comments around Sydney, one guy pulled up beside me and started going on about how awesome it looked and sounded 👍
I noticed some grease on the inside of the front right wheel, looks to have come from the CV boot - will have to get on to that. The engine oil is still clean and full, and the best fuel figure I got was 8.5L / 100 km (around 27 U.S. MPG)
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
I finally did something about my awful shift boot and acquired a new leather one, and decided to match it with a leather TRD knob (The knob is a lot lighter than the old one I had on there so it feels quite different, in a good way, like there is more feeling).
My friend also bought a new camera and he is trying to improve his skills so we parked up the car and took a few shots:
My friend also bought a new camera and he is trying to improve his skills so we parked up the car and took a few shots:
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- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
That's what she said...
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
So I have a couple of number plate ideas, just want your opinion on them. Keep in mind that I have to stick with 3 letters, either followed by or preceded by 2 numbers.
They relate to my car having a blow off valve. "Achoo" and "Sneeze". I wanted 15NEZ (I Sneeze) or ACH00 but they were taken.
The other is relating to the cars rally heritage, an the fact it's a 1990 model
And I trust that fellow Queensland members of this forum wont steal my ideas until I have chosen, thanks! :lol)
They relate to my car having a blow off valve. "Achoo" and "Sneeze". I wanted 15NEZ (I Sneeze) or ACH00 but they were taken.
The other is relating to the cars rally heritage, an the fact it's a 1990 model
And I trust that fellow Queensland members of this forum wont steal my ideas until I have chosen, thanks! :lol)
- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
90WRC is a million times better because I had no idea what the other two were until you said it, there's no point in personalised plates if nobody can tell what they mean if they're meant to say something (initials and birthdates are different I guess).
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Correct 👍
Watch this space too, the plate is a low priority however a Link G4 Xtreme is on the horizon, it'll be interesting to see the power levels once it has been tuned properly...
Watch this space too, the plate is a low priority however a Link G4 Xtreme is on the horizon, it'll be interesting to see the power levels once it has been tuned properly...
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
It has taken a fair bit of research, waiting for replies, hunting down parts etc but I have finally sorted out all of the small components I'll need to install the Link G4.
1) New intake pipe is being made for Air Flow Meter delete.
2) New open element Air Temp Sensor has been purchased, and will go in a custom bracket I have yet to make that will go where the soon to be redundant Cold Start Injector lives, on the bottom of the intake manifold.
3) 3 port solenoid has been purchased and will replace the manual boost controller so the ECU can control boost.
4) MAP Sensor from a ST215 Caldina has been tracked down and purchaced from New Zealand, this can handle more pressure and is more linear at the extremities of its range. I will be using a ST205 Celica base map and if I were to keep my old MAP sensor I would have to recalibrate the map to handle it. The ST215 MAP sensor is electrically the same as the ST205 sensor, so it should work within that map not a worry. There is an added bonus that no rewiring will need done, it uses the same plug as my existing one.
5) New switch has been purchased and will be installed discretelty, this will be configured as a Launch Control Enable switch.
So I need to spend a bit of time running wiring and installing connectors to the new components ready for the changeover, which should go fine now that I know what needs to be done. Once I have the ECU, my friend and I are going to do the wiring (he's an auto sparkie) and then deliver the car to my tuner to have the map uploaded and initial start, then have it tuned and the launch control set up.
I'm not expecting massive power increases, although realistically speaking I should be able to notice it, this is really for two reasons, one, I am sick of not being able to go wide open throttle higher up in the rev range as I currently just hit boost cut even though the wastegate has been high flowed, and two, future proofing the managment for all the modifications I intend to perform.
1) New intake pipe is being made for Air Flow Meter delete.
2) New open element Air Temp Sensor has been purchased, and will go in a custom bracket I have yet to make that will go where the soon to be redundant Cold Start Injector lives, on the bottom of the intake manifold.
3) 3 port solenoid has been purchased and will replace the manual boost controller so the ECU can control boost.
4) MAP Sensor from a ST215 Caldina has been tracked down and purchaced from New Zealand, this can handle more pressure and is more linear at the extremities of its range. I will be using a ST205 Celica base map and if I were to keep my old MAP sensor I would have to recalibrate the map to handle it. The ST215 MAP sensor is electrically the same as the ST205 sensor, so it should work within that map not a worry. There is an added bonus that no rewiring will need done, it uses the same plug as my existing one.
5) New switch has been purchased and will be installed discretelty, this will be configured as a Launch Control Enable switch.
So I need to spend a bit of time running wiring and installing connectors to the new components ready for the changeover, which should go fine now that I know what needs to be done. Once I have the ECU, my friend and I are going to do the wiring (he's an auto sparkie) and then deliver the car to my tuner to have the map uploaded and initial start, then have it tuned and the launch control set up.
I'm not expecting massive power increases, although realistically speaking I should be able to notice it, this is really for two reasons, one, I am sick of not being able to go wide open throttle higher up in the rev range as I currently just hit boost cut even though the wastegate has been high flowed, and two, future proofing the managment for all the modifications I intend to perform.
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- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
So, at it again last night. Removed the intercooler and throttle body to get to the Cold Start Injector. Removed this, and made a template that copies the plate that bolts to the manifold.
The plate I'm making is the same shape obviously to bolt to the manifold but instead of the injector it has a hole in the same place with a nut braised on top of it. The new Intake Air Temp sensor then goes in to the nut. Viola, perfect location to take air temp for the new computer, as the cold start injector will be redundant then.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Since I've removed the EGR system and charcoal canister, I made use of the canister bracket by installing my new catch can in it - I had to pack it out using some bicycle inner tube, but it looks ok:
So, job for the weekend, drop fuel tank, drill through the boot for the battery bracket, mount battery in boot inside new sealed box, run the cabling and vent tube, do the connections and mount the catch can.
At the same time I'll run the wires for the boost solenoid and Manifold Air Temp sensor and fit off the plugs at the device end ready to plug in once I wire the new ECU up.
With the battery out of the way I can fit the heat shield I've made and get the new intake pipe made to suit.
So, job for the weekend, drop fuel tank, drill through the boot for the battery bracket, mount battery in boot inside new sealed box, run the cabling and vent tube, do the connections and mount the catch can.
At the same time I'll run the wires for the boost solenoid and Manifold Air Temp sensor and fit off the plugs at the device end ready to plug in once I wire the new ECU up.
With the battery out of the way I can fit the heat shield I've made and get the new intake pipe made to suit.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Ohhh yeah Motorsport season 
I'm sure there will be a few trips to QR or Lakeside.
I'm sure there will be a few trips to QR or Lakeside.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
So, my priorities might have changed a bit with the car, driving along I felt and heard a bad knocking sound from under the car at low speed whilst moving off, which went away quickly, but every so often when moving off I hear a clunk from the rear end. I have also been experiencing a bad pull to one side on throttle lift.
So this weekend I'll be jacking the rear of the car up, removing the diff, replacing the mount, checking the drive shaft and stub axles, and most likely installing an LSD from a later model GT-Four. And while I'm at it I can drop the tank and install the battery bracket in the boot.
So the new Link ECU might have to go on hold for a short while as buying a second hand LSD and then getting it stripped and inspected to make sure it's all good before I install it will set me back around a grand...
I have been kind of expecting it to **** itself actually. When I bought the car I had the diff and gearbox oils replaced and the rear diff oil was filthy, that and the whining noise coming from it haven't boosted my confidence in it one bit!
So this weekend I'll be jacking the rear of the car up, removing the diff, replacing the mount, checking the drive shaft and stub axles, and most likely installing an LSD from a later model GT-Four. And while I'm at it I can drop the tank and install the battery bracket in the boot.
So the new Link ECU might have to go on hold for a short while as buying a second hand LSD and then getting it stripped and inspected to make sure it's all good before I install it will set me back around a grand...
I have been kind of expecting it to **** itself actually. When I bought the car I had the diff and gearbox oils replaced and the rear diff oil was filthy, that and the whining noise coming from it haven't boosted my confidence in it one bit!
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Spent a good part of the day on the car today. Jacked it up, on all fours corners, sat it on stands, started it, put it in gear with the handbrake on and released the clutch slowly to check out the driveshaft and diff mount etc, while a mechanic friend of mine watched. Doesn't seem to be any issue there, although it is difficult to tell using that method, as there is hardly any stress on it.. More investigation needed on that one. The diff is definately whining though, and I can not pin point the pulling problem it has or the knocking to the diff but hey - an LSD would be ace anyway, so what the hell.
In the mean time I removed the fuel tank and battery, ran in the new cable, and installed some new wires in to my engine bay from my ECU location in preparation for the Link ECU, and terminated them in to the appropriate plugs I'm using. Also fitted up some nice braided lines for the catch can and installed that too. I need to buy some cover clamps though to cover the ends of the braided line.
Just have to make a nice plate for the boot for the battery box to sit on, above the fuel tank wires, so it'll need to be spaced off the deck. More on that once I build it.
In the mean time I removed the fuel tank and battery, ran in the new cable, and installed some new wires in to my engine bay from my ECU location in preparation for the Link ECU, and terminated them in to the appropriate plugs I'm using. Also fitted up some nice braided lines for the catch can and installed that too. I need to buy some cover clamps though to cover the ends of the braided line.
Just have to make a nice plate for the boot for the battery box to sit on, above the fuel tank wires, so it'll need to be spaced off the deck. More on that once I build it.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
OK - so I've made the bracket for the battery:
But I can't install the box yet as I need to get to that hole in the floor once I put the tank back in.
Speaking of which, because the tank was such a pain in the ass to remove, I decided to order a Walbro Motorsport fuel pump and install it while the tank is out. That simple, fairly inexpensive job only means I have to back it up with another simple little job, but this time not so inexpensive - I will have to run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to maintain my stock fuel pressure so I can still run the car in the mean time with the stock ECU. If I didn't it would probably run quite rich.
Anyway so I bought a Turbosmart FPR800, along with guage and fuel rail adapter.
And simply because of the no corner cutting policy with the car, no simple hose and clamp connections we going to do - so I'm replacing the fuel lines (Inlet to Filter, Filter to Rail, Rail to Regulator and Regulator to Return) with braided hose and SpeedFlow fittings..
I must not want a new ECU subconsciously or something because I'm hardly able to save up for it when I keep spending it on other things like this!
Mind you it's something I'll need anyway for making more power, so spending is justified
But I can't install the box yet as I need to get to that hole in the floor once I put the tank back in.
Speaking of which, because the tank was such a pain in the ass to remove, I decided to order a Walbro Motorsport fuel pump and install it while the tank is out. That simple, fairly inexpensive job only means I have to back it up with another simple little job, but this time not so inexpensive - I will have to run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to maintain my stock fuel pressure so I can still run the car in the mean time with the stock ECU. If I didn't it would probably run quite rich.
Anyway so I bought a Turbosmart FPR800, along with guage and fuel rail adapter.
And simply because of the no corner cutting policy with the car, no simple hose and clamp connections we going to do - so I'm replacing the fuel lines (Inlet to Filter, Filter to Rail, Rail to Regulator and Regulator to Return) with braided hose and SpeedFlow fittings..
I must not want a new ECU subconsciously or something because I'm hardly able to save up for it when I keep spending it on other things like this!
Mind you it's something I'll need anyway for making more power, so spending is justified
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Still waiting for my fittings and pump to arrive so I can't install tank yet or fuel lines, however I have basically finished the battery stuff - I still have yet to connect the main cables but they are crimped and soldered ready to go, but no point doing it yet as box needs to come out to get to the top of the fuel tank when it goes back in.
Here is a picture of the box, sitting in place:
And what it looks like inside, showing the cable glands, securing bracket:
And what the lid wiring looks like, still have to connect the main feed in with the amp cable feed on the lid:
Here is a picture of the box, sitting in place:
And what it looks like inside, showing the cable glands, securing bracket:
And what the lid wiring looks like, still have to connect the main feed in with the amp cable feed on the lid:
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Well the pump is installed, the speed relay is bypassed so the pump is at high speed all the time (Walbros don't like being run at reduced voltage) and I have fitted up the battery and done all the connections. The work at the rear of the car is done 
Moving to the front, I have removed the intercooler, throttle body, removed the factory regulator and fitted my new adapter in to the rail, and fitted the NPT fittings in to the adapter and regulator, using Loctite 567 thread sealant compound. I have mounted the regulator at the end of the intake manifold, where the EGR system used to be. Another added perk of removing that rubbish, spare mounting locations!
I've started on the fuel lines - got the return line from the regulator to the tank return line done, just have to do the 2 high pressure lines. Couple of pics:
Finished battery enclosure.
Braided line - for more faster.
Not long to go now, will finish the lines, turn on the pump, set the base pressure on the regulator and test for leaks, then reassemble it and take it for its first little drive in like 2 months!
Moving to the front, I have removed the intercooler, throttle body, removed the factory regulator and fitted my new adapter in to the rail, and fitted the NPT fittings in to the adapter and regulator, using Loctite 567 thread sealant compound. I have mounted the regulator at the end of the intake manifold, where the EGR system used to be. Another added perk of removing that rubbish, spare mounting locations!
I've started on the fuel lines - got the return line from the regulator to the tank return line done, just have to do the 2 high pressure lines. Couple of pics:
Finished battery enclosure.
Braided line - for more faster.
Not long to go now, will finish the lines, turn on the pump, set the base pressure on the regulator and test for leaks, then reassemble it and take it for its first little drive in like 2 months!
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