Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar
- Thread starter Punknoodle
- 1,059 comments
- 143,718 views
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
GDII
Cheers dude, for your reference in case you didn't know they are SSR Professor SP1s, in Super Black Coat.
*ibo* S3 Racer
Thanks, yes going for the Link G4 Xtreme, which is a wire in with knock control, also wiring in a boost solenoid so it can control my boost, too. I'll be wiring it all in myself, but I'll leave the initial firmware upload and base map upload to the tuners. I've already changed the base map I'll be using with calibration settings for the new Air Temp Sensor in the manifold
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
I made my hoses up today with Speedflow fittings. Then, I cleaned them, fitted them up and turned on my battery and ignition and jumpered the fuel pump relay to set the base fuel pressure. Set it at 38psi, everything is working perfectly. The new fuel pump is fairly loud but i dare say I won't notice it with the car running and the loud exhaust.
Put the throttle body back on, the intercooler, BOV and now it just needs the AFM and a small air hose which I'll have to buy tomorrow. Very close!
Put the throttle body back on, the intercooler, BOV and now it just needs the AFM and a small air hose which I'll have to buy tomorrow. Very close!
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
So, turns out I won't be installing a Link G4 Xtreme ECU, and instead will be installing a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000.
I have spoken to my tuner, and he advised me that the factory triggering in the Toyota 3SGTE just isn't any good for doing ignition tuning, and that I'm best to go with a crank angle trigger sensor. I will also be using the factory cam angle sensor in the distributer as well as the crank sensor, but using individual LS1 coils instead, and going direct spark.
The reason for the ECU change is simply because my tuner is more accustomed to tuning Haltechs, and seen as I'm no longer sticking to a near factory system and thus won't be using a base map, the set up and tuning will be faster and easier with the system they know better.
I have spoken to my tuner, and he advised me that the factory triggering in the Toyota 3SGTE just isn't any good for doing ignition tuning, and that I'm best to go with a crank angle trigger sensor. I will also be using the factory cam angle sensor in the distributer as well as the crank sensor, but using individual LS1 coils instead, and going direct spark.
The reason for the ECU change is simply because my tuner is more accustomed to tuning Haltechs, and seen as I'm no longer sticking to a near factory system and thus won't be using a base map, the set up and tuning will be faster and easier with the system they know better.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
It isn't actually that much more expensive, although there is a lot more effort on my part to install it now, I have to make a new ignition loom for the coils and install the trigger wheel and sensor. I think it will add around 600 or so to the total cost, however it will be a much more tunable set up.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Small update - a Water to Air intercooler from an ST205 model Celica came up on eBay, so I had to have it. Bought it, apparently it has a leak in the radiator section so I will get a new core for it, and install it before the car gets tuned so it won't need redone.
No more heat soak from the standard top mount air to air, and I won't have to worry about swapping to the group a front straight away to run a front mount intercooler. Also get cooling at all speeds - handy here in Australia when crushing around town - and less lag than a front mount.
So I'll have to come up with some custom brackets to mount all of the components, including the water circulating pump, and wire it up. I think to power it I will loop the relay feed for fuel pump in to another relay to run the circulating pump. That way I know if the engine is running, so is the circulating pump.
No more heat soak from the standard top mount air to air, and I won't have to worry about swapping to the group a front straight away to run a front mount intercooler. Also get cooling at all speeds - handy here in Australia when crushing around town - and less lag than a front mount.
So I'll have to come up with some custom brackets to mount all of the components, including the water circulating pump, and wire it up. I think to power it I will loop the relay feed for fuel pump in to another relay to run the circulating pump. That way I know if the engine is running, so is the circulating pump.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Well, Ive test fitted the new coils to convert to coil on plug - the adapters I had made by the guy who supplied the coils are a little short, so I've measured them up and he is going to remake them for me. He is also making me up some little rods with an 8mm thread in them, which I am going to either weld, or bolt on to the rocker cover (the middle part of the rocker cover is not sealed and is easily drilled) to bolt the coils down. I fitted my standard intercooler back on and it fits over the coils, so hopefully the new water to air unit isn't lower as it will most likely hit them if it is. While its off, I'll be painting the rocker cover. Was going to go purple - thought it would suit the car and the blue hoses - but now I'm thinking keep it simple, with black.
And here is a shot of the new intake pipe and heat shield - I'm buying some gold shielding to go under the new intercooler and on the engine bay side of the heat shield, to combat heat soak. I also have some rubber edging to put on the inside of the hole and on the top edge of the shield. I have since polished the pipe, since I took this picture.
Have ordered a throttle body adapter to connect the new intercooler up, will just need to buy a silicone reducer to join the outlet of the intercooler to the adapter, and the same from intercooler to turbo. Will have to get my BOV adapter welded on to the intercooler, too.
Big jobs to do, I have to fabricate mounts for the cooler, mounts for the pump, and have a whole radiator section for the charge cooler fabricated to fit where the air con compressor used to sit, and run the water lines. Then I'll be able to swap over to it.
I keep getting side tracked, so after the intercooler I'm not going to get side tracked by anything else. Fit a wideband, do the wiring for the COP, buy the ECU, get it tuned. Then I can stop throwing money at it for a while, hopefully.
And here is a shot of the new intake pipe and heat shield - I'm buying some gold shielding to go under the new intercooler and on the engine bay side of the heat shield, to combat heat soak. I also have some rubber edging to put on the inside of the hole and on the top edge of the shield. I have since polished the pipe, since I took this picture.
Have ordered a throttle body adapter to connect the new intercooler up, will just need to buy a silicone reducer to join the outlet of the intercooler to the adapter, and the same from intercooler to turbo. Will have to get my BOV adapter welded on to the intercooler, too.
Big jobs to do, I have to fabricate mounts for the cooler, mounts for the pump, and have a whole radiator section for the charge cooler fabricated to fit where the air con compressor used to sit, and run the water lines. Then I'll be able to swap over to it.
I keep getting side tracked, so after the intercooler I'm not going to get side tracked by anything else. Fit a wideband, do the wiring for the COP, buy the ECU, get it tuned. Then I can stop throwing money at it for a while, hopefully.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Yep. I did a pretty amateur photoshop of it and it looked not bad, but black looked pretty boss. So black it is. I will repaint the turbo heat shield while I'm at it it's pretty faded. Have already sorted out gaskets for when I do it.
- 8,480
- P_Balance
As far as black engine bays, I don't particularly dislike them, but what's going to set your black engine bay apart from anyone else who spray painted everything black whenever they did their last halfassed engine swap?
It can look good, but I'm afraid it might just end up looking generic and cheap. In fact, if I wanted to stay "clean" with the look, why not have it refinished in the same color as the exterior? Clear coated and everything, instead of just the typical factory basecoat color.
It can look good, but I'm afraid it might just end up looking generic and cheap. In fact, if I wanted to stay "clean" with the look, why not have it refinished in the same color as the exterior? Clear coated and everything, instead of just the typical factory basecoat color.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
The only section of the cam cover that is visible is to the left of the throttle body, so the area of black isn't going to be very large. I could go body colour, but I was going to go with a high heat paint, such as VHT engine enamel, due to the fact there is going to be an intercooler sitting right over it, so it's going to get warm (Now that I think of it, I hope the coils will be able to handle the heat :S). Good suggestion though.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Had a long weekend where I live, so I had a little bit of time to spend in the garage. My throttle body adapter hasn't arrived yet, so I couldn't start on the priority job which is lining up the charge cooler so I know where to do the welding etc.
No worry, I just started tackling making the new sub-loom for the manifold air temp sensor, boost controller, tachometer signal and individual coil on plugs. Terminated the plugs, so just have to do the soldering for the 12V and GND loops and loom it all up nicely.
No worry, I just started tackling making the new sub-loom for the manifold air temp sensor, boost controller, tachometer signal and individual coil on plugs. Terminated the plugs, so just have to do the soldering for the 12V and GND loops and loom it all up nicely.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
It's been a while. Anyway work is still progressing, slowly. Just been too busy. I now have a Innovate LC-1 Wideband O2 controller for the new ECU, I have half finished my brackets for my heat exchanger and my throttle body adapter has arrived so I can start lining up my top mounted cooler. All the engine bay wiring is finished, so it's just the cooler / cam cover and the actual ECU to do.
Quick question though. I have been contemplating for ages which tail lights I should go with - my current ones or the ones from the later model, which are darker and look a bit more sinister.
This is the only picture I could find that really shows them off, it's the wrong red so it doesn't really go well in my opinion but mine is a much deeper colour so I think they would work:
Vs mine:
I can get a set fairly easily but they aren't exactly the cheapest things in the world so I would just like some more opinions
Quick question though. I have been contemplating for ages which tail lights I should go with - my current ones or the ones from the later model, which are darker and look a bit more sinister.
This is the only picture I could find that really shows them off, it's the wrong red so it doesn't really go well in my opinion but mine is a much deeper colour so I think they would work:
Vs mine:
I can get a set fairly easily but they aren't exactly the cheapest things in the world so I would just like some more opinions
- 3,204
- 2.2L Camry
- NissanSkylineN1
- Xbox??? Who is this Xbox??
The newer ones look better.
- 1,391
- Chicago
- Silberc
- Silberc
I prefer your's over the older model.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Hmm. Ok well if I can get them for a good price, I'll go for it.
In other news, I have ordered a silicon adapter to match my new throttle body inlet and the cooler, I have to cut down the inlet still, however I took a picture to show the difference in size - the factory one is the black one, it's base is the same diameter as the new one but it tapers down to to match the old output pipe of the intercooler. You can see how much smaller it is:
The new one has no taper, and I am actually using the adapter to go UP in size where it meets the cooler. The cooler itself is designed to flow MUCH better than the standard air to air, as well as cool the air better.
I was thinking at the start that this will mainly just improve the heat soak effect in warm temperatures, but actually when you see how much better it is going to flow, before it would have been like running a restrictor in the intake, and coupled with the higher flow of the cooler, it should make a noticeable increase in power. Should. Here's hoping.
In other news, I have ordered a silicon adapter to match my new throttle body inlet and the cooler, I have to cut down the inlet still, however I took a picture to show the difference in size - the factory one is the black one, it's base is the same diameter as the new one but it tapers down to to match the old output pipe of the intercooler. You can see how much smaller it is:
The new one has no taper, and I am actually using the adapter to go UP in size where it meets the cooler. The cooler itself is designed to flow MUCH better than the standard air to air, as well as cool the air better.
I was thinking at the start that this will mainly just improve the heat soak effect in warm temperatures, but actually when you see how much better it is going to flow, before it would have been like running a restrictor in the intake, and coupled with the higher flow of the cooler, it should make a noticeable increase in power. Should. Here's hoping.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Busy day today, got busy with finishing the brackets for the heat exchanger. They aren't the prettiest things in the world, but they are fairly invisible, and most importantly they make the installation easy and solid as a rock.
Here is a shot of how it sits in where the condenser used to sit, all bolted up.
Reassembled the latch assembly, oil cooler bracket etc.
My friend put a bung in the front section of my exhaust for the wideband, I wired up the controller, calibrated it, and installed it into the exhaust and put the exhaust back on the car. When I wired up the wideband I decided to make a lead up with the indicator LED and the push button for calibration, and install this with a plug so I can disconnect it when not in use. Much nicer than mounting them somewhere in the cabin.
Anyway, it works:
Here is a shot of how it sits in where the condenser used to sit, all bolted up.
Reassembled the latch assembly, oil cooler bracket etc.
My friend put a bung in the front section of my exhaust for the wideband, I wired up the controller, calibrated it, and installed it into the exhaust and put the exhaust back on the car. When I wired up the wideband I decided to make a lead up with the indicator LED and the push button for calibration, and install this with a plug so I can disconnect it when not in use. Much nicer than mounting them somewhere in the cabin.
Anyway, it works:
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Thanks Pako!
Well last night I went and picked the car up from it being at the aluminium fabricator - he cut the side of the cooler out and made a new plate with a relocated input pipe to suit my turbo, and fitted the Vband adapter for my BOV as well, looks great, just have to do the painting of it and the cam cover now and it'll be Haltech time
Well last night I went and picked the car up from it being at the aluminium fabricator - he cut the side of the cooler out and made a new plate with a relocated input pipe to suit my turbo, and fitted the Vband adapter for my BOV as well, looks great, just have to do the painting of it and the cam cover now and it'll be Haltech time
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
It will look a lot better once painted
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Cheers man it should look nice and tidy once painted and installed. Teaser of the BOV:
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
So this what it looks like sitting in place, I am very happy with it, looks factory. I have decided to just go black instead of purple I think it will look classier. Since taking this shot I have removed it again, and also removed the cam cover, ready for drilling and blasting, then I'll paint them. Wrinkle black for the cam cover and flat satin black for the charge cooler. Plumbing is up next.
Edit: Oh and I am going to get the throttle body adapter that the silicon joiner attaches to anodized black. Won't stick out so much.
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