Engine swap tunes

  • Thread starter F1gtr97
  • 157 comments
  • 92,805 views
Ok I finally managed to give it a go for a couple of laps. I had to drop a little power to get it back under 630 as you mentioned.

Braking. A big improvement, not only allows me to brake later but stops the other cars running into my rear.

Handling. Also an improvement, I feel much more confident to push it on corners.

Lap times. No improvement but that is due to my limited testing laps. It definitely has more potential than my tune.

Thanks heaps for improving it. Loving the changes.
That is great to hear :-) It just shows how close you were with the tune. I actually really like it. I tried a tune from Praiano, who is THE GOD tuner for all things GT and I actually prefer yours as it handles the higher HP better.

There will be a little bit more tweaking with this but I am very happy with it at this track.

BTW picking up on an earlier comment of yours, yes, it is fun pulling out from behind a Veyron in a Beetle and just give him the finger as you power pass :-))

BTW the Beetle has appeared back in the UCD so I bought 4 more to try some variations since I now have a lot of Porsche motors laying around ;-)
 
Im loving the 300zx engine swap
Before it was already great the fully tuned 300zx
Or 300sx dunno
But now i have engine swap in it and i did 436kmh with it.
I put it back after and i want it to perform wel om track, does the job but the backside slips away alot
How could i fix this
 
Im loving the 300zx engine swap
Before it was already great the fully tuned 300zx
Or 300sx dunno
But now i have engine swap in it and i did 436kmh with it.
I put it back after and i want it to perform wel om track, does the job but the backside slips away alot
How could i fix this
Find a published tune with the swap installed (there are multiple) and apply it.
 
Last edited:
Do you maybe have a link? Its litterally my first time on this forum and i have to say i find it a bit of a mess,
Fair enough. I learned to just click on any 'tuning garage' and see what I found. It introduced me to a whole new world of really creative tuners. In the interest of inadvertently failing to mention any of the many tuners I have used, I will say that, by sheer volume and variety alone, Exeter and Praiano are a great place to start. Some of the best tunes can also be found in race-specific threads as well, but those take a bit more digging to find.
 
If you would recommend your top 3 engine swap cominations that one should look into, which would those be?
For me it's RX7 for 600pp rain race in Tokyo.
For the 700pp race in Sarthe it's the Crown Athele.
Silva for high speed runs as it's got over 1000hp. Find this car awful in the wet and under braking even with all upgrades.

Most enjoyable is Lancia Delta with sound settings set to +5 on transmission and engine.
But it borderline wins the 700pp race on Sarthe.

Crown above on FM6 can do Sarthe race with no pits. Same with Mazda on Tokyo.
 
I have a Volkswagen Beetle tune to compete with GR4 Racecars. 629PP

Runs Deep Forest Raceway in 1:33.5

A little twitchy but that was required to lower the lap times to what was needed to be competitive (You can turn TC on to 1 and still pull similar lap times if you want a more stable ride)
Hi Jak, it's me again. I have tinkered with your tune again and this time I am very happy with the result. Since the Beetle returned to the UCD I bought 4 ;-) No probs since I am now down to my last 15 Porsche engines ;-)

OK here we go with a new car.
1: Swap engine and do all mods to it
2: No wide body this time standard diameter rims at 15" with wide rims and wide offset
3: Add rear aero (I also took the bumpers off)
4: TCS 1 and ABS Normal

I tuned this one to be easily driveable on race hards so it now has HP and handling ;-) I did a low 1:32*** in practice at Deep Forest and I have a pic of a race time of 1:33.127 if anyone calls for proof.

Next I will put this tune on my wide body car and see what difference it makes. I should add, the first tune was on the wide body car that had 20" low profile wheels and I think this was causing a lot of the unpredictable rear end. Theory here is standard diameter wheels that have some sidewall flex should take the nervousness out and I think it has.

See screen shots below. Let me know what you think.
 

Attachments

  • Bug1.jpg
    Bug1.jpg
    89.7 KB · Views: 154
  • bug2.jpg
    bug2.jpg
    102.9 KB · Views: 155
  • Bug3.jpg
    Bug3.jpg
    97.9 KB · Views: 150
  • Bug4.jpg
    Bug4.jpg
    87.7 KB · Views: 121
For me it's RX7 for 600pp rain race in Tokyo.
For the 700pp race in Sarthe it's the Crown Athele.
Silva for high speed runs as it's got over 1000hp. Find this car awful in the wet and under braking even with all upgrades.

Most enjoyable is Lancia Delta with sound settings set to +5 on transmission and engine.
But it borderline wins the 700pp race on Sarthe.

Crown above on FM6 can do Sarthe race with no pits. Same with Mazda on Tokyo.
Lancia ... borderline wins. Sorry for my bad English. That means that it is difficult to win with it?
 
Lancia ... borderline wins. Sorry for my bad English. That means that it is difficult to win with it?
Yes it means close win or 2nd. Lancia 100% HAS to pit for fuel. Crown can go full race no pits.

However I believe I did not have wet tyres. So I suggest run FM6 and make sure you have racing hard and wet tyres. Whenever I take Lancia Delta, it rains heavy. I just tried race again and it was biggest win of over 2.23 minutes.

When you have Lancia buy racing transmission manual. Then on the long straight left off and slow down without braking. The sound of the exhaust burbling and downshift transmission is the best sounding in the game for me so far.
 
Yes it means close win or 2nd. Lancia 100% HAS to pit for fuel. Crown can go full race no pits.

However I believe I did not have wet tyres. So I suggest run FM6 and make sure you have racing hard and wet tyres. Whenever I take Lancia Delta, it rains heavy. I just tried race again and it was biggest win of over 2.23 minutes.

When you have Lancia buy racing transmission manual. Then on the long straight left off and slow down without braking. The sound of the exhaust burbling and downshift transmission is the best sounding in the game for me so far.
I will try it out!!
 
Hi Jak, it's me again. I have tinkered with your tune again and this time I am very happy with the result. Since the Beetle returned to the UCD I bought 4 ;-) No probs since I am now down to my last 15 Porsche engines ;-)

OK here we go with a new car.
1: Swap engine and do all mods to it
2: No wide body this time standard diameter rims at 15" with wide rims and wide offset
3: Add rear aero (I also took the bumpers off)
4: TCS 1 and ABS Normal

I tuned this one to be easily driveable on race hards so it now has HP and handling ;-) I did a low 1:32*** in practice at Deep Forest and I have a pic of a race time of 1:33.127 if anyone calls for proof.

Next I will put this tune on my wide body car and see what difference it makes. I should add, the first tune was on the wide body car that had 20" low profile wheels and I think this was causing a lot of the unpredictable rear end. Theory here is standard diameter wheels that have some sidewall flex should take the nervousness out and I think it has.

See screen shots below. Let me know what you think.
Wow thats awesome!

I will try these changes in the weekend as you have knocked almost 1.5 seconds off my best time

Slowly creeping down to that fabled 1:30 flat.

I originally forgot to widebody my car and tuned it to be stable, as soon as I added the widebody it completely destroyed the stability causing a full retune (Hopefully yours fares better)

I am currently tuning a sambabus which had a bit of snap, thanks to your changes to the weight distribution on the beetle, I was able to take this lesson and apply it to the Sambabus improving its handling.

How are the muscle car tunes coming along?
 
How are the muscle car tunes coming along?
I have the Mach 1 Mustang at a level where it doesn't want to kill me every time I touch the accelerator ;-) I think the "trick" here is to just put the stock swapped engines in as they are and so keep the HP down. These '70s cars were not designed (or even imagined for that matter) to have 1,000HP and still be able to go around corners.

For the record I have 5 Mach 1s and I think 16 Coyote engines in stock, so I have a lot of scope for tuning here

Interesting observation: Mach 1 Mustang you pay for a race muffler and so PD then deletes the muffler already on and exists the exhaust straight out behind the front wheels :-)) Effectively you have just paid some one to use a hacksaw and pipe bender for 2 minutes :-)) BTW this was the same for GT5/6 so no real surprise here.

Another interesting point is there is no front downforce available for the Firebird so it will always have a slight disadvantage to the other 3 :-(

PS with the new Beetle tune I took the weight out and then added it back in slowly to get to the 50/50 or 48/52 distribution and the adjust HP to suit PP. Too light with FA HP was slow, full weight with high HP was too squirrelly so I tried to get to the Goldilocks point ;-) The Muscle cars I am using the same principal with weight vs. HP especially since PD recons all tyres fitted to these cars should be made out of cheese >:-(

PPS for the record I do not like race Soft tyres in this game as they reach the limit of traction with no warning RHs are far more predictable and stable IMHO. Oh and IF you use RS in a race with tyre wear on they just melt before the first corner ;-)
 
My 700pp M3 GTR tune. You can swap for hards and increase power if you want. Easy 1 stop on fuel map 1 on La Sarthe
 

Attachments

  • D26B8882-97B8-423E-BBAC-43831846CC9F.png
    D26B8882-97B8-423E-BBAC-43831846CC9F.png
    118.6 KB · Views: 172
I have the Mach 1 Mustang at a level where it doesn't want to kill me every time I touch the accelerator ;-) I think the "trick" here is to just put the stock swapped engines in as they are and so keep the HP down. These '70s cars were not designed (or even imagined for that matter) to have 1,000HP and still be able to go around corners.
What I've found to work even better atleast in the Mach 1 is to NA tune the engine for high revs and then bring down the power so the engine no longer has ridiculous torque down low. It's actually made the car better to drive than the stock one. This is what I've done. Also having a Mustang that revs to 8,9k is pretty fun

181cb917d2d46-7d900E208329F6A9A94.746BDF163C2D4AC2_message_424186289575942_1656977693656.jpg

181cb94263566-7d900E208329F6A9A94.746BDF163C2D4AC2_message_424186329321429_1656977848911.jpg



It's based heavily off of Priano's tune but with lower ride height, more downforce, less power and no supercharger.
 
Last edited:
What I've found to work even better atleast in the Mach 1 is to NA tune the engine for high revs and then bring down the power so the engine no longer has ridiculous torque down low. It's actually made the car better to drive than the stock one. This is what I've done. Also having a Mustang that revs to 8,9k is pretty fun

View attachment 1169227
View attachment 1169229


It's based heavily off of Priano's tune but with lower ride height, more downforce, less power and no supercharger.
Thanks for this it is a very good tune. See pic below, my numbers don't match yours and I get 575BHP and 63.5kgfm of torque for the same engine.
What I found is that I changed the rear springs (softer) and gave the front a little toe out to help corner turn in.

What I do not like is the engine tune it is weak in the high mid range and then instantly peaks at about 7,500rpm and lights up the rear wheels :-( Not good on corner exit. But I am running more torque and HP than yours.

So see a new post below with the tune I came up with that gets around the problem and is 1sec a lap quicker at Laguna Seca than yours.

Good job I have cars and motors in stock ;-)

Regardless it is a very good tune, well done.
 

Attachments

  • Mach 1 NA.jpg
    Mach 1 NA.jpg
    102.3 KB · Views: 110
Mustang Mach 1 700pp Tune with 5.0 Coyote Engine Swap

A big thanks to Taidehaamu who did the basics here and I have just refined it a bit.

1: Swap engine
2: Fit wide rims and wide offset Std diameter (no wide body)
3: All aero
4: All weight reduction and body stiffness
5: Ballast, power limiter ECU, exhaust etc etc
6: DO NOT do anything to the motor, leave stock
7: High end supercharger and intercooler

I found with the NA version the motor has a power dip in the mid to high end range and when the power hits at 7,500rpm the the back end will let go if not dead straight. Fitting the SC to the stock engine eradicates this and you get a more gradual power build up and no flat spot in the torque curve. An added bonus is due to PD's inept PP calculations for the same weight car (identical actually inc aero) the SC gives more power and Torque for the same PP! I would really like someone from PD to explain that one to me ;-)

This tune was a full second a lap quicker around Laguna Seca than the NA version for the same identical car

Anyway here we go, look at the pics and give it a go.
 

Attachments

  • 3 Mach 1 SC Hi.jpg
    3 Mach 1 SC Hi.jpg
    88.4 KB · Views: 117
  • 2 Mach 1 SC Hi.jpg
    2 Mach 1 SC Hi.jpg
    95.5 KB · Views: 115
  • 1 Mach 1 SC Hi.jpg
    1 Mach 1 SC Hi.jpg
    102.5 KB · Views: 117
Last edited:
K20 Mini

Mini Cooper S '65 with Honda civic K20C1-Civic-20 Engine swap 601pp

Body and motor ALL upgrades especially the largest wheels you can get.

This is my first tune, I am only putting it up as I usually just use Praiano's as they are always great. So I have used Praiano's pic format

The challenge here is to try and get the power to ground so I suggest TCS1 at least. This is the same car I tuned with the original motor and it was "meh!" It now has 3x the HP and is soooo much fun. Tested at Brands Hatch Indy and Goodwood.
I strung out second and third and added weight next im going to add spring and damping ran out of time. i like the rake on yours im going to try that and the diff settings .
MINI2.png
MINI.png
 
I am currently tuning a sambabus which had a bit of snap, thanks to your changes to the weight distribution on the beetle, I was able to take this lesson and apply it to the Sambabus improving its handling.
Hi Jak, have a look at this and tell me what you think.

Samba Bus '62 with Porsche Engine.

This is like trying to tune a block of flats resting on a plate of jelly.

There is very little to add to the chassis except wheels.

Wheels: Wide and wide offset. Use 20" diameter to lessen tyre flex. Motor all mods.

I trialled this at Deep forest as well it runs mid 1:36*** It will beat the AI easily on easy and only just on intermediate in 4 laps. Main issue is don't let the AI make contact with you as it ruins your race every time :-(

Like I said it handles like a block of flats and and is as aerodynamic as a house brick ;-)

A tip to driving it: be gentle with sudden changes of direction, its like swinging a brick around you head and go easy on the power, treat the accelerator respectfully.

There is still room for improvement as the motor is quite asthmatic in the top end
 

Attachments

  • Hippy Van 1.jpg
    Hippy Van 1.jpg
    113.2 KB · Views: 151
  • Hippy Van 2.jpg
    Hippy Van 2.jpg
    107.5 KB · Views: 195
  • Scrn 1.jpg
    Scrn 1.jpg
    104.9 KB · Views: 202
  • Scrn 2.jpg
    Scrn 2.jpg
    100.8 KB · Views: 197
  • Scrn 3.jpg
    Scrn 3.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 166
Hi Jak, have a look at this and tell me what you think.

Samba Bus '62 with Porsche Engine.

This is like trying to tune a block of flats resting on a plate of jelly.

There is very little to add to the chassis except wheels.

Wheels: Wide and wide offset. Use 20" diameter to lessen tyre flex. Motor all mods.

I trialled this at Deep forest as well it runs mid 1:36*** It will beat the AI easily on easy and only just on intermediate in 4 laps.
Well done man, that's an incredible time for a sambabus! I look forward to giving it a try.

I ended up building mine under 600pp so I could make it super stable. It will run a 1:39 flat at deep forest (quicker if driven by somebody skilful)

I think the mistake I made was buying engine parts that upped the high end power as that just makes it harder to keep the power grounded.

Once again, awesome work! I can't believe you got it down to 1:36!!
 
Does anyone have a 2JZ Yaris GR tune please? (550pp preferred)
I have one but it’s definitely not 550pp, I believe it’s close to 800pp. I haven’t gotten to tuning this one for any specific events of pp limits yet, but it’s an absolute blast to drive in it’s current form with power maxed out and tuned for best compromise of power and handling.
 
Well done man, that's an incredible time for a sambabus! I look forward to giving it a try.

I ended up building mine under 600pp so I could make it super stable. It will run a 1:39 flat at deep forest (quicker if driven by somebody skilful)

I think the mistake I made was buying engine parts that upped the high end power as that just makes it harder to keep the power grounded.

Once again, awesome work! I can't believe you got it down to 1:36!!
Watching the replays are hilarious :-)) I think I have outdone myself with the Hippy Van here and the rust I added just tops it off. Watching a 1962 VW hippy rust bucket overtake state of the art GR4 cars is just sooo funny :-))

But I digress. This really needs bigger tyres on the back and forced induction to flatten the torque curve. Oh and the real problem lowering the centre of gravity so it does feel like a brick on a string.

Something odd. Compare the racing exhausts on the Sambabus and the Beetle. The van has a more modern looking exhaust but both sound like vacuum cleaners :-(

BTW these were called a Kombi Van in Australia. Anywhere else in the world get the name?
 
Back