F1 2012 wheel settinsF1 2010-2016
- Thread starter woo
- 87 comments
- 60,171 views
- 13,909
- Adelaide
- Neomone
I've got a bit of a radical one that I'm really enjoying. My wheel is a DFGT on PC.
Set rotation to 270 degrees in profiler.
Deadzone 0%
Saturation 50%
Linearity 50%
Seriously, it feels good.
Play with FFB settings to taste, I think I have 70% environmental, 10% strength, and 50% weight. The FFB feels OK, could be better but it delivers the information needed.
Set rotation to 270 degrees in profiler.
Deadzone 0%
Saturation 50%
Linearity 50%
Seriously, it feels good.
Play with FFB settings to taste, I think I have 70% environmental, 10% strength, and 50% weight. The FFB feels OK, could be better but it delivers the information needed.
- 6,356
- Michigan
- DaveTheStalker
Can the T500rs be used in the demo? Are there settings to drive you nuts with?
- 709
- The Top Gear Test Track
- thunderjolt
My Settings are:
Steering Deadzone - 1%
Steering Saturation - 25%
Steering Linearity - 30%
Throttle Deadzone - 5%
Throttle Saturation - 5%
Brake Deadzone - 5%
Brake Saturation - 5%
And I am using a DFGT. It feels pretty good to me, but it is open to your Opinions.
Steering Deadzone - 1%
Steering Saturation - 25%
Steering Linearity - 30%
Throttle Deadzone - 5%
Throttle Saturation - 5%
Brake Deadzone - 5%
Brake Saturation - 5%
And I am using a DFGT. It feels pretty good to me, but it is open to your Opinions.
- 753
I use exact like you, but instead I have all FFB on 100.
- 4,004
- Croatia
My settings for the Fanatec CSR Elite/CSPV2 on the PS3:
WHAT DOES SETTINGS BELOW IMPROVES:
- linearity of steering becomes natural 1:1 ratio (no need for artificial messing with Sensitivity/Linearity options in-game)
- all *noise* in FFB efects is severely reduced: motor grinding, steering hickups on slopes and fast changes of direction and such
- FFB is now fully-informative (countersteer is possible without sudden spin, you can feel the *enivronmental* effects in full, the feel for grip is vastly improved..)
- all together resulting with 100% smooth sensitivity of steering
*On-wheel settings (via Fanatec on-the-fly settings):
SEN 320-330 (crucial setting) / FF 100 / SHO 20 / DRI 005 (crucial setting) / ABS 025 / LIN 0 / DEA 0 / SPR 0 / DPR -3 (crucial setting)
NOTE to above: Drift setting (DRI 005) will drastically ease the dampers of the motors and allow for smooth steering. Spring (SPR) has to be left on 0 in order to mantatin proper FFB-effects sensation. Damper (DPR -3) setting will further remove all post-rumbling effects form the wheel and enhance the smoothness even further. My ABS setting is my personal and subjective, so that one is not important for actual steering sensation.
*In-game Advanced Wheel Settings > both settings below are applied in the game option menu:
DDZ 0 / SAT 0 / LIN 0 / THR DZZ 0 / THR SAT 0 / BRK DDZ 2 / BRK SAT 25
NOTE to above: There is no need to have either deadzone, saturation or linearity "overrides" applied once you dial the Sensation (SEN) setting on your wheel to 320-330. Brake Deadzone and Brake Saturation settings are also my personal and purely subjective, so experiment with those for your own pedal-set or way you drive.
*In-game Force Feedback options:
ENV EFF 10% / FFB STR 80% / WHL WGH 0%
NOTE to above: Fanatec CSRE has very strong FFB motors compared to G25 (F1 2012 uses G25 profiler for CSRE), so I had to dial down all post-processing effects in order to maintatin smooth steering and still fell curbs, road and everything. Above setting works perfectly for me, but once you made all alterations reccomended above, you can play with these settings until you find what suits you most
**NOTE: Many settings above are NOT GOOD for the CSW model on the PS3 (DRI and DPR settings as above are not available, thanx to FMW for pointing it out). For the *ordinary* Fanatec CSR model (not Elite) I presume how some settings also do not apply - especially DRI, SPR and DPR - so I advise further testing for both CSW and CSR users.
However - 320/330 setting for Sensitivity and all in-game overrides set to 0 should be the same starting point to all.
Detailed explanation of everything with details and reasoning > here.
WHAT DOES SETTINGS BELOW IMPROVES:
- linearity of steering becomes natural 1:1 ratio (no need for artificial messing with Sensitivity/Linearity options in-game)
- all *noise* in FFB efects is severely reduced: motor grinding, steering hickups on slopes and fast changes of direction and such
- FFB is now fully-informative (countersteer is possible without sudden spin, you can feel the *enivronmental* effects in full, the feel for grip is vastly improved..)
- all together resulting with 100% smooth sensitivity of steering
*On-wheel settings (via Fanatec on-the-fly settings):
SEN 320-330 (crucial setting) / FF 100 / SHO 20 / DRI 005 (crucial setting) / ABS 025 / LIN 0 / DEA 0 / SPR 0 / DPR -3 (crucial setting)
NOTE to above: Drift setting (DRI 005) will drastically ease the dampers of the motors and allow for smooth steering. Spring (SPR) has to be left on 0 in order to mantatin proper FFB-effects sensation. Damper (DPR -3) setting will further remove all post-rumbling effects form the wheel and enhance the smoothness even further. My ABS setting is my personal and subjective, so that one is not important for actual steering sensation.
*In-game Advanced Wheel Settings > both settings below are applied in the game option menu:
DDZ 0 / SAT 0 / LIN 0 / THR DZZ 0 / THR SAT 0 / BRK DDZ 2 / BRK SAT 25
NOTE to above: There is no need to have either deadzone, saturation or linearity "overrides" applied once you dial the Sensation (SEN) setting on your wheel to 320-330. Brake Deadzone and Brake Saturation settings are also my personal and purely subjective, so experiment with those for your own pedal-set or way you drive.
*In-game Force Feedback options:
ENV EFF 10% / FFB STR 80% / WHL WGH 0%
NOTE to above: Fanatec CSRE has very strong FFB motors compared to G25 (F1 2012 uses G25 profiler for CSRE), so I had to dial down all post-processing effects in order to maintatin smooth steering and still fell curbs, road and everything. Above setting works perfectly for me, but once you made all alterations reccomended above, you can play with these settings until you find what suits you most
**NOTE: Many settings above are NOT GOOD for the CSW model on the PS3 (DRI and DPR settings as above are not available, thanx to FMW for pointing it out). For the *ordinary* Fanatec CSR model (not Elite) I presume how some settings also do not apply - especially DRI, SPR and DPR - so I advise further testing for both CSW and CSR users.
However - 320/330 setting for Sensitivity and all in-game overrides set to 0 should be the same starting point to all.
Detailed explanation of everything with details and reasoning > here.
Last edited:
- 753
Lucky PC and Fanatec users.
- 611
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
For those of you who actually have a FANATEC CSW wheel set. The settings described here with the CSR elite DO NOT transfer over to F1 2012 on the PS3.
SEN 320-330 (crucial setting)
FF 100
SHO 20
DRI 005 (crucial setting) DRI is available, but those values are not available
ABS 025
LIN 0
DEA 0
SPR 0
DPR -3 (crucial setting) DPR is available, but those values are not available
As the poster mentions, those settings are “crucial”, which is all fine and good, but if you have a CSW system it’s meaningless. You can’t input his values. Everyone with a CSW set up should also know while the CSRe and CSW are similar they are not the same. The electronics inside and firmware are different. The CSW has completely different electronics as mentioned in many of the reviews of the wheel base.
Maybe his settings can be used as a guide for the CSW, but since the two crucial ones, highly recommend by the poster, are not available from a value standpoint, anyone with an CSW is going to have to find their own set up to work best for them.
- 1,214
I have mine everything set to zero except
Steering Lin 10
FFB:
Environmental effects 30%
Feedback strength 10%
Wheel weight 10%
With these ffb settings you can feel the wheel tighten up more as you put more pressure on your tires around the corners. If you set the ffb strength too high you lose this important information. So far I haven't found a setting for my GT2 wheel works as good as my DFGT.
To me the ffb strength isn't as important as the information I receive. Even though my GT2 ffb is smoother and stronger I'm getting better feedback (infor) from my DFGT for this game so far.
Last edited:
- 611
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
I want to help those who have Fanatec CSW gear with regards to F1 2012 on the PS3. I don’t have the game on PC, so the information I’m providing probably and most likely WILL NOT carry over to a PC version of the game. It most certainly does not carry over to the XBOX version as the CSW gear is not compatible with the 360 platform.
More and more PS3 users are beginning to pick up FANATEC gear, so I hope my feedback in addition to what Amar212 has learned will help CSW users.
NOTE: My testing and enjoyment of the game is using the following FANATEC gear:
Fanatec CSW base
Fanatec F1 rim
Fanatec ClubSport V2 pedals
I highly discourage using the BMW rim with F1 2012 or any F1 game from Codemasters. The settings I’m recommending would work terribly with the BMW rim. It’s better suited for GT5 due to its size and physical weight.
First, lets’ start with the basics of what the CSW wheel has to offer from its own hardware options.
SEN (Sensitivity) wheel rotation in increments of 10, 900 being the maximum
FF (Force Feedback Strength) overall strength of the CSW base feedback
SHO (Shock vibration) vibration of the two motors inside the wheel rim
ABS (Anti-Lock) simulates wheel lock-up on the rim motors
LIN (Linearity) changes the linearity of the steering linearity axis. A zero value makes steering response/speed even across the entire steering range. A value higher than zero slows the center axis speed. The higher the value the larger the “center slow” range increases. Note: Fanatec uses increments of 10 in the hardware, whereas the in game setting is in increments of one. Not sure if a difference between the two can be noticed.
DEA (Deadzone) some games require adding deadzone to make the car stop shaking in a straight section of the track. A value higher than 0 will have dead-space at center before information from the wheel is transmitted to your car.
DRI (Drift mode) less dampening on the wheel, which allows drifters to turn the wheel faster
FOR (Force) adjusts only the force signals coming from the game. The most popular type of signals and used in many games. If the in-game force signals are too weak they can be amplified up to 4 times by using a value higher than 100% Note: Damper and Spring effects will not be affected. Force Feedback does get affected.
SPR (Spring) changes the spring forces and determines how strong the wheel returns to center
DPR (Damper) changes the dampening effects sent by games. Damper lets the wheel move slower when set to higher values.
AMAR212 has some very good points in what he has found to work with the CSR elite. There were just a few settings that aren’t applicable to the CSW hardware. The Option is there to change, but the values are not exactly the same so we would need to test and compare notes to see if we can come up with the feel he is experiencing.
SEN: Sensitivity is indeed best at 320-330 for F1 2012 (PS3) I’ve tried 270-290 and while it works, 320-330 from my testing has proven to be ideal and I personally like it the best as does AMAR212. Great Find! IMO
FF: Force Feedback: This is a personal preference.
SHO: If you want the motors to vibrate in the wheel by all means turn it on. Personally, I have found it to be distracting, but the jury is still out.
ABS: Personal preference
LIN: Linearity; this is the biggest topic of debate and confusion. AMAR212 is correct from what I know of R/C Car racing and the radio equipment we use. Anything past 0, whether through hardware or software, changes the rate of movement (speed) at the beginning of initial movement with your wheel. In the R/C car radio world we call this the “exponential” setting. Here’s an extreme example why someone would ever want to use “linearity” or “exponential”: If you have the shakes when holding an R/C radio, your car will seem likes it’s twitchy while driving. Some people have the same issue with driving games when using a wheel. Adding linearity or exponential slows the beginning stroke to make things seem smoother. Don’t confuse this with dead band. When using deadband there’s no signal being communicated in the dead space you’ve put in. With linearity or expo, you still have signals being sent, but you’ve changed the constant rate. Think of a pendulum. If you watch a pendulum swing, it swings at a constant rate at the center, middle and end of the swing. If you were to add Linearity, the speed of the center will be slower from the middle to wherever you set the value. The higher the linearity value the longer the stroke will be slower from the starting position.
In the end IMO, Linearity is really a personal preference; however, AMAR212 is correct, 0 gives the best level of immersion to what is real. I have found I’m driving at my most consistent level with it at ZERO, just like my R/C car racing.
DeadZone: I would only use this for hardware that may have centering issues or if the FF motors are fighting each other at center. The CSW has the sensor right on the steering axis as opposed to other hardware and I have had no issue leaving deadzone at ZERO.
DRI: If you need a faster responding wheel from a hardware point of view then AMAR’s recommendations sound good. Personally, I have found the CSW doesn’t need this to be used with F1 2012, but more testing on my end is needed and I recommend people try and experiment. The CSW has a maximum of -3 to +3 on the DRI setting. Amar212 has a setting of 005, so we would have to compare notes to see what’s best for CSW users.
FOR: As mentioned above, you can amplify the signals sent from the game, but I think in F1 2012 you’ll just have slower lap times by turning it up past 100. It feels immersive, but you will go slower. 100 is a good balance.
SPR: This is a big one for me. It’s an immersion setting for me. The higher the value, the more the wheel will fight to return to center. If you set this too high your lap times will be slower.
DPR: The higher you have this set the slower the physical wheel moves. Be careful with this setting as you can make the experience of driving feel broken if set too high. AMAR212 has a setting of -3 for the CSRelite. The CSW is off to 400 with increments of 10. So we would have to see how this setting compares to his.
With all the above said, here are my current settings with the CSW base, F1 rim and Clubsport V2 peddles. For those who have it give it a try and let me know what you think.
In Game Settings:
Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Saturation: 0
Steering Linearity: 0
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Saturation: 5 (Saturation applies more signal from the input device, therefore the input you apply seems like it makes the peddle more sensitive)
Brake Deadzone: 2 (Codemasters themselves recommends using at least 2 for “load Cell” peddles)
Brake Saturation: 10 (Codemasters themselves recommends using at least 10 for “load Cell” peddles)
Force Feedback
Environmental Effects: 50
Force Feedback: 100
Wheel Weight: 60
FANATEC settings:
SEN: 330
FF: 100
SHO: off
ABS: 40
LIN: off
DEA: off
DRI: off
FOR: 140
SPR: 100
DPR: 70
More and more PS3 users are beginning to pick up FANATEC gear, so I hope my feedback in addition to what Amar212 has learned will help CSW users.
NOTE: My testing and enjoyment of the game is using the following FANATEC gear:
Fanatec CSW base
Fanatec F1 rim
Fanatec ClubSport V2 pedals
I highly discourage using the BMW rim with F1 2012 or any F1 game from Codemasters. The settings I’m recommending would work terribly with the BMW rim. It’s better suited for GT5 due to its size and physical weight.
First, lets’ start with the basics of what the CSW wheel has to offer from its own hardware options.
SEN (Sensitivity) wheel rotation in increments of 10, 900 being the maximum
FF (Force Feedback Strength) overall strength of the CSW base feedback
SHO (Shock vibration) vibration of the two motors inside the wheel rim
ABS (Anti-Lock) simulates wheel lock-up on the rim motors
LIN (Linearity) changes the linearity of the steering linearity axis. A zero value makes steering response/speed even across the entire steering range. A value higher than zero slows the center axis speed. The higher the value the larger the “center slow” range increases. Note: Fanatec uses increments of 10 in the hardware, whereas the in game setting is in increments of one. Not sure if a difference between the two can be noticed.
DEA (Deadzone) some games require adding deadzone to make the car stop shaking in a straight section of the track. A value higher than 0 will have dead-space at center before information from the wheel is transmitted to your car.
DRI (Drift mode) less dampening on the wheel, which allows drifters to turn the wheel faster
FOR (Force) adjusts only the force signals coming from the game. The most popular type of signals and used in many games. If the in-game force signals are too weak they can be amplified up to 4 times by using a value higher than 100% Note: Damper and Spring effects will not be affected. Force Feedback does get affected.
SPR (Spring) changes the spring forces and determines how strong the wheel returns to center
DPR (Damper) changes the dampening effects sent by games. Damper lets the wheel move slower when set to higher values.
AMAR212 has some very good points in what he has found to work with the CSR elite. There were just a few settings that aren’t applicable to the CSW hardware. The Option is there to change, but the values are not exactly the same so we would need to test and compare notes to see if we can come up with the feel he is experiencing.
SEN: Sensitivity is indeed best at 320-330 for F1 2012 (PS3) I’ve tried 270-290 and while it works, 320-330 from my testing has proven to be ideal and I personally like it the best as does AMAR212. Great Find! IMO
FF: Force Feedback: This is a personal preference.
SHO: If you want the motors to vibrate in the wheel by all means turn it on. Personally, I have found it to be distracting, but the jury is still out.
ABS: Personal preference
LIN: Linearity; this is the biggest topic of debate and confusion. AMAR212 is correct from what I know of R/C Car racing and the radio equipment we use. Anything past 0, whether through hardware or software, changes the rate of movement (speed) at the beginning of initial movement with your wheel. In the R/C car radio world we call this the “exponential” setting. Here’s an extreme example why someone would ever want to use “linearity” or “exponential”: If you have the shakes when holding an R/C radio, your car will seem likes it’s twitchy while driving. Some people have the same issue with driving games when using a wheel. Adding linearity or exponential slows the beginning stroke to make things seem smoother. Don’t confuse this with dead band. When using deadband there’s no signal being communicated in the dead space you’ve put in. With linearity or expo, you still have signals being sent, but you’ve changed the constant rate. Think of a pendulum. If you watch a pendulum swing, it swings at a constant rate at the center, middle and end of the swing. If you were to add Linearity, the speed of the center will be slower from the middle to wherever you set the value. The higher the linearity value the longer the stroke will be slower from the starting position.
In the end IMO, Linearity is really a personal preference; however, AMAR212 is correct, 0 gives the best level of immersion to what is real. I have found I’m driving at my most consistent level with it at ZERO, just like my R/C car racing.
DeadZone: I would only use this for hardware that may have centering issues or if the FF motors are fighting each other at center. The CSW has the sensor right on the steering axis as opposed to other hardware and I have had no issue leaving deadzone at ZERO.
DRI: If you need a faster responding wheel from a hardware point of view then AMAR’s recommendations sound good. Personally, I have found the CSW doesn’t need this to be used with F1 2012, but more testing on my end is needed and I recommend people try and experiment. The CSW has a maximum of -3 to +3 on the DRI setting. Amar212 has a setting of 005, so we would have to compare notes to see what’s best for CSW users.
FOR: As mentioned above, you can amplify the signals sent from the game, but I think in F1 2012 you’ll just have slower lap times by turning it up past 100. It feels immersive, but you will go slower. 100 is a good balance.
SPR: This is a big one for me. It’s an immersion setting for me. The higher the value, the more the wheel will fight to return to center. If you set this too high your lap times will be slower.
DPR: The higher you have this set the slower the physical wheel moves. Be careful with this setting as you can make the experience of driving feel broken if set too high. AMAR212 has a setting of -3 for the CSRelite. The CSW is off to 400 with increments of 10. So we would have to see how this setting compares to his.
With all the above said, here are my current settings with the CSW base, F1 rim and Clubsport V2 peddles. For those who have it give it a try and let me know what you think.
In Game Settings:
Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Saturation: 0
Steering Linearity: 0
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Saturation: 5 (Saturation applies more signal from the input device, therefore the input you apply seems like it makes the peddle more sensitive)
Brake Deadzone: 2 (Codemasters themselves recommends using at least 2 for “load Cell” peddles)
Brake Saturation: 10 (Codemasters themselves recommends using at least 10 for “load Cell” peddles)
Force Feedback
Environmental Effects: 50
Force Feedback: 100
Wheel Weight: 60
FANATEC settings:
SEN: 330
FF: 100
SHO: off
ABS: 40
LIN: off
DEA: off
DRI: off
FOR: 140
SPR: 100
DPR: 70
- 753
So to my understandings, if you own CSW you can set those settings not only on PC, but also on PS3?
For T500RS on PS3
Until we can get a 330-degree range (270-degree default, cannot change on PS3), here's what I've come up with...
In the Control panel: Increase FF to 100%. Factory was set to 60% on mine.
In game (F1 2012):
Force Feedback Setting
Environment 20%
Force Feedback 100%
Wheel Weight 50%
Wheel weight is the biggest inhibitor of oversteer correction. It also combats the drop in force feedback when understeers sets in, confusing the feedback in a very nonlinear way. I dropped this to 20% and worked my way up until the weight felt ok, but it didn't feel unnatural when understeer or oversteer set in.
Advanced Settings
Linearity 30-40%
Brake Saturation 13%
All others are 0%
This is as good as I could get it. I understand the inverse bell curve that happens as you increase linearity. In my eyes, the first 180-degrees (90* left, 90* right) are used most often when navigating the majority of the circuits. Because the T500RS doesn't implement hard stops that limit rotation once the car is in motion (it will from a stop), I still end up using about 330* of rotation on hairpins even though the last 30* of my inputs are ignored.
Until we can get a 330-degree range (270-degree default, cannot change on PS3), here's what I've come up with...
In the Control panel: Increase FF to 100%. Factory was set to 60% on mine.
In game (F1 2012):
Force Feedback Setting
Environment 20%
Force Feedback 100%
Wheel Weight 50%
Wheel weight is the biggest inhibitor of oversteer correction. It also combats the drop in force feedback when understeers sets in, confusing the feedback in a very nonlinear way. I dropped this to 20% and worked my way up until the weight felt ok, but it didn't feel unnatural when understeer or oversteer set in.
Advanced Settings
Linearity 30-40%
Brake Saturation 13%
All others are 0%
This is as good as I could get it. I understand the inverse bell curve that happens as you increase linearity. In my eyes, the first 180-degrees (90* left, 90* right) are used most often when navigating the majority of the circuits. Because the T500RS doesn't implement hard stops that limit rotation once the car is in motion (it will from a stop), I still end up using about 330* of rotation on hairpins even though the last 30* of my inputs are ignored.
- 4,004
- Croatia
To further expand the answer, those "settings" are not done in the game, but in the wheel itself.
All Fanatec models have separate on-the-fly settings for wheel where you can *bypass* some of the settings for the game and adjust them accordingly to your own preferences.
We are leaving in-game settings on the very default and then alter everything on the wheels itself (model independent, so far it has been confirmed how 320/330 is working as 1:1 linearity degree for all current Fanatec models - GT3RS, GT2, CSR, CSRE and CSW).
Your notes are spot on.
Tell me, do you get a sawing sensation when you put DRI to a negative number? I do, and I don't like it.
Here's my setup...I am going to give yours a go. Thanks!
ADVANCED
linearity 2%
throttle saturation 10%
brake saturation 30%
FF
enviroment 100
feedback 100
weight 90
WHEEL
sen 320
ff 100
sho 60
abs OFF (I don't have CSPedals)
lin OFF
dea OFF
dri +1
for 200
spr 80
dpr 160
Feel pretty good about this one...both twitchy and tight...going into career with it unless someone else cracks it.
I did like 120 laps at Melbourne...adjusting over and over and it's about as good as I could do to almost eliminate the default dead zone that's been in Codemaster's F1 since the first patch for 2011.
DRI at +1 helps to smoothen out the snap of the SPR setting, DPR does this also, and gives you more responsiveness while being "heavy"
Overall I'm trying to get a smooth and very firm force feedback from 0 degrees to whatever degree the wheel is at when I hit the slowest hairpin...all without compromising response...I'd say this is close but hopefully someone can get it even better.
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- 189
- shaun_ccxr
Anyone has the settings of T500rs for ps3?
Thx
Thx
- 582
- Florida
- GTP_Gearhead
- X11R
Disregard, amazing what happens when you use the search feature!
Last edited:
- 349
Here is my setup for T500 with ferrari wheel (on pc):
[Control Panel]
overall strength: 50%
rotation: 360 (may need tweaking)
constant: 100%
periodic: 50%
spring: 30%
damper 35%
[in game]
enviromental effect: 40%
strength: 90%
weight: 0%
in advanced wheel options i have everything on 0, except steering linearity on 5 (you can change this to anywhere from 0 to 20 depending on how you like it.)
This makes it a whole lot better, but its still not perfect.
[Control Panel]
overall strength: 50%
rotation: 360 (may need tweaking)
constant: 100%
periodic: 50%
spring: 30%
damper 35%
[in game]
enviromental effect: 40%
strength: 90%
weight: 0%
in advanced wheel options i have everything on 0, except steering linearity on 5 (you can change this to anywhere from 0 to 20 depending on how you like it.)
This makes it a whole lot better, but its still not perfect.
- 10
- velvetrevolver1
hi peeps. got a dfp wheel.now using it for f1 2012.before the update it was fine.and now it doesn't do anything after the update.codemasters have made it worse.it feels heavy and when driving down a straight it veers to the left.it feels like my wheel isn't centered.can anyone help.or should i get a new wheel.thank you
- 226
- Lincolnshire
- dj_hazardous
it's just because of the new patch. it's not a problem with your wheel.
try these new settings which work well with my dfp:
saturation: 60
linearity: 10
throttle saturation: 1
brake saturation: 1
ffb settings:
environmental: 10
strength: 80
weight: 60
best setup for me so far & handling feels much better since patch.
try these new settings which work well with my dfp:
saturation: 60
linearity: 10
throttle saturation: 1
brake saturation: 1
ffb settings:
environmental: 10
strength: 80
weight: 60
best setup for me so far & handling feels much better since patch.
- 322
- New Zealand
Is this a FFB problem? I'm having a problem with the FFB on my G27 (PC version) not sure what has caused it though.
I just upgraded my computer (Mobo, Cpu, ram, Windows 8) and copied all the F1 2012 files to/from the steam apps folder. Then it downloads PC patch 10 from Steam.
When I play the game, the FFb is horrendous. It intermittently cuts out, or tries to turn the wheel hard left or right. When I say that, I mean if I let go of the wheel the car will continuously drive in a circle by itself.
Not sure if it was caused by the patch or my lazy installation. Will have to wait til the 2nd to install properly again(capped).
Edit: 🤬🤬🤬 never have I seen so many bugs in my life! Turn on V-sync and it works
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- 195
I've just bought the DFGT. It's my first wheel so I'm still getting used to it but I'm having some real problems going through tight corners. I have to do over a full rotation of the wheel to get the car fully turning. The wheel feels fantastic through Eau Rouge at Spa but I struggle getting around the first corner. Is there someway to make the wheel more sensitive or limit the degrees it can turn? Do I just need to get used to it?
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