Fanatec and PS4 Troubleshooting/SettingsPS4 

  • Thread starter Smoothherb
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Update the firmware and run in PC mode - it should work then (to some extent). You will likely have the same dead zone issues everyone else is posting about until SMS/Fanatec provide the fix.
 
So far no love with VirtualBox. The Windows VM is not recognizing the wheel plugged into the Mac. Anyone else have any luck with this?
 
I finally got it to work. What a nightmare.

First, you have to add a USB Device filter in the VirtualBox preferences. I added one for the device, and got the firmware updater to recognize it, but then when the device was being updated by the software the device info changed, and it was no longer recognized.

I figured, finally, I could add a device filter with just the manufacturer name "Fanatec" and it would recognize the wheel every time.

Then I tried flashing with an XP VM. That never got past "resetting Fanatec wheel as commport". I got it to finally work in a Windows 8 VM, although the first time through it froze in the middle of "Flashing...." and I had to restart, and hold my breath.

But it's working now. No more freezing in the game. Now I just need to get settings working!
 
Currently with a Clubsport Base V2 it is totally unplayable. Wheel is giving violent FFB impulse when at very low speed/stopped. Then as soon you have a few km/h the FFB fade and disappear. In menus, you have to constantly switch between pad and wheel buttons because sometimes you need th wheel X button and then you need the pad X button.

Please finish the game and then send me an email when it's done. For now the game will stay in its box.

I am sure it works perfectly well on Pc :(
 
K_Soze
Currently with a Clubsport Base V2 it is totally unplayable. Wheel is giving violent FFB impulse when at very low speed/stopped. Then as soon you have a few km/h the FFB fade and disappear. In menus, you have to constantly switch between pad and wheel buttons because sometimes you need th wheel X button and then you need the pad X button.

Please finish the game and then send me an email when it's done. For now the game will stay in its box.

I am sure it works perfectly well on Pc :(
Click to expand...
I'm using CSW V2 on PS4 and find it's excellent. Exactly the same as on my PC version. I can fully navigate the menus in game with the wheel without issue. These are my wheel settings SEN off, FF 100, SHO off, ABS 85, LIN off, dEA off, Dri off, For 100, SPr off, dPr off and have you tried the tweaks to the ffb for each car in game from this spreadsheet? https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0Bw5ul...xport=download

A guy on the WMD forums made xml files for all cars in there PC version of the game to improve the ffb. Some kind soul got the data out of it to make changes in the PS4 version (or XBone version) and put it that a handy spreadsheet. It'll take a bit of work to do as you need to change each car's setting in the setup menu. More info can be found by reading the whole thread http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files
 
My settings are almost the same than yours SEN off, FF 100, SHO off, ABS off, LIN off, dEA off, Dri off, For 70, SPr off, dPr off.

I will not spend hours on tuning FFB, I have less than a few hours per month to play, this is why I bought a console version of pCars, I want it to work out of the box. If I spend hours to tweak FFB, I will not even have time to run a lap.

For now I am waiting for a patch. If in a week nothing is changed then I will sell my copy. If I want to tweak, then I have rFactor2 and Assetto Corsa on a PC with a mouse and a decent UI.

But thanks a lot for all these informations.
 
CSR users, not sure what the deal is, but my CSR isn't being recognized at all. The firmware is 756 along with the current drivers. My laptop has no problem seeing the wheel and doing tests, but my PS4 sees nil.

Nevermind. I think I just figured it out.

  1. turn on ps4.
  2. turn on CSR.
  3. put CSR in PC mode.
  4. start PCars.
  5. immediately, shut off DS4 (don't wait for game to load; at least I didn't)
 
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Although I love the amount of tweaking that can be made in this game, I agree that it's annoying to have to do this for every car on a console to FIX issues. I'd like it if the baseline was a playable experience. I'm worried that SMS will fix some of this, and we will then have to go back and re-fiddle with then new baseline settings to see what works better.

For others wanting a good overview watch that FFB tweaking video from Inside sim Racing in the thread above. Lots of good background info on method for tweaking each car. Assuming of course that you have the time :cheers:
 
CSR users please make sure your ACL is OFF on the wheel settings as the paddle shifters act as X and means you select the menu you are on rather than navigating through the menus left and right.
 
Anyone know how to dial out some steering angle on the CSR. It's like I have to turn the wheel 20 times just to get a car to turn 5 degrees (exaggeration, but basically the problem)? It seems like SEN isn't working oddly.

Nevermind, I got it. User error. :banghead:
 
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pasigiri
Anyone know how to dial out some steering angle on the CSR. It's like I have to turn the wheel 20 times just to get a car to turn 5 degrees (exaggeration, but basically the problem)? It seems like SEN isn't working oddly.

Nevermind, I got it. User error. :banghead:
Click to expand...


Do you mind sharing the fix? I have a CSR that I will eventually hook up to another PS4...
 
GT3 with the latest firmwear and it's totally unplayable for me. Absolutely massive deadzone even with trying all of the settings listed here. Hopefully they fix it ASAP.
 
Have the same huge dead zone issues as many on here using the GT3 V2...it causes a pretty significant delay between my inputs and the cars reaction, makes the game nearly unplayable.

I don't know about you guys, but between school and work, my free time is valuable and I don't really want to spend hours of it just getting my new game to work properly. I'll honestly probably just put PCars back in its case for a few days and see if they fix the issues in their end.

Back to GT6 I guess...
 
ironman44321
Have the same huge dead zone issues as many on here using the GT3 V2...it causes a pretty significant delay between my inputs and the cars reaction, makes the game nearly unplayable.

I don't know about you guys, but between school and work, my free time is valuable and I don't really want to spend hours of it just getting my new game to work properly. I'll honestly probably just put PCars back in its case for a few days and see if they fix the issues in their end.

Back to GT6 I guess...
Click to expand...

Your free time only gets worse with kids. :)

Agree with you though. I'm not excited about having to spend extra time on a console game to fiddle with things. It's not completely unplayable for me, and I've got the GT3 V2. Are you tweaking the specific car tuning? If not, try that.
 
I turned SEN OFF and my wheel movement matches the movement exactly on screen. Feedback so far seems good but thats only on the Nurburgring with the Ariel Atom, haven't tried much else so far.
 
Should I even bother trying to play the game with my Fanatec GT2? Or should I just wait for a patch to fix it first?

Any GT2 wheel users opinions would be welcome.
 
Thanks lads. I was in half a mind to wait, think I'll do just that.

COME ON SMS!


:irked:
 
How about you try it and then decide it?

I can play with my GT3 the deadzone is kinda annoying and I can't wait until the patch. But I still enjoy driving.
 
Anyone having issues where L2/R2 is going crazy on the Edit Tuning screen? In other words, you try to edit the tuning and the different pages are constantly going back and forth as if you're mashing on the buttons. This just started happening for me, and I'm unsure what tweak is causing this. Didn't have too much time to mess with it, but it's only happening with my GT3RS V2 connected, and only on that screen so far.
 
So it was the pedals, but as far as I can tell it's not a calibration issue. No clue why L2/R2 is mapped to the pedals. The way I worked around it was to mash the brake the entire time, and then tap the gas to switch between the different menus. That at least let's me edit those menus without have to do with DS controller.

So weird..
 
Just sent Fanatec the following message via the Support tab on their website;




VBR
"Dear Fanatec,


currently there are several issues with certain Fanatec wheels on the PS4 version of Project CARS.

My question is this: are you working together with Slightly Mad Studios to fix them?



Regards,

VBR.



PS: more info on the issues can be found here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-and-ps4-troubleshooting-settings.328086/"
Click to expand...




Will be interesting to see if they respond, & if they do, to hear what they've got to say.
 
Is the main issue with lower end Fanatec wheels? Unless I'm way off I've heard nor read any woes from CSW V1 or V2 owners.
 

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