Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
  • 13,388 comments
  • 1,320,435 views
I imagine the invites will only last as long as the pre-order period lasts, since thats the claimed advantage us early adopters have been given is first dibs before the demand exceeds production.
 
Has anyone here (or anywhere, really) been sent out invite codes yet?

I'm hoping spare codes start popping up soon, I really can't wait to place my order for one. I've already dismantled my set up and begun the building of the new one in preparation for it :)
 
could have sworn i read the Invites wont go out till they have the production units IN Their warehouse. or maybe it was on the "boat". So Invites are a Waaays out still, Especially after they've announced the 2nd wave of testing.
 
could have sworn i read the Invites wont go out till they have the production units IN Their warehouse. or maybe it was on the "boat". So Invites are a Waaays out still, Especially after they've announced the 2nd wave of testing.

There's no second wave of testing, but a second wave of reviews with retail CSWv2's
 
Well as posted in the modding thread, they made some changes as far as the motor goes and a few other tweaks I guess, and have been testing the new bits for a couple weeks now from what I gather.
 
hi guys, anyone here who has replaced the T500 to a CSWv2? Please compare both. Thanks in advance.

Type: CSWv2 - T500
Mechanical drag: extremely low - high
Cogging: non-existent - very high
Torque: 7Nm - 6Nm
Strength feel: 2x powerful as T500 - feels weak going back from CSW v2

Is there anything you wanted to know in particular?
In my eyes the CSWv2 is a level above the T500, as is the T500 above a G27.

Edit:
If anyone wonders why the CSWv2 feels twice as powerful with only 1Nm of torque difference. It basically comes down to the difference in mechanical resistance. The less resistance, the more power will be actually transferred to the users hands as it isn't needed to overcome resistance and get the wheel to turn in the first place.
So the smoothness and low resistance helps the feel and power transfer a lot.
 
Last edited:
I've been spending more and more time on the CSW V2 Beta unit and it just feels great. Even with what some say is the heavy rim, the BMW GT rim I'm only using the standard settings and I'm very happy 👍
 
I've been spending more and more time on the CSW V2 Beta unit and it just feels great. Even with what some say is the heavy rim, the BMW GT rim I'm only using the standard settings and I'm very happy 👍

I am just trying to trash my wheel, but as of yet I am unable to recognize any issues with my wheel. It's our job as beta testers to check reliability though. So yeah... even though I rather not have mine break down.
But to be honest. In most cases I tend to run the following profiles. Which one I choose depends on how the game's FFB is done.

- Default
- Default + DRI-5
- Default + DRI-5 + FOR-150

Last night I played some R3E with the last set of settings above. It was absolute bliss.
I tend to combine DRI-5 with FOR-150 often when I feel the wheel becomes too light when adding DRI-5 initially. Adding more power tends to give back the desired resistance, but it keeps the FFB dynamics that you have with no artificial dampening.
In some games there is just too much difference between, or more of a too sudden drop, between strong FFB and weak to no FFB at all. In those games I often just run with the default profile alone that has the artificial dampening added (so DRI-off).
 
If anyone wonders why the CSWv2 feels twice as powerful with only 1Nm of torque difference. It basically comes down to the difference in mechanical resistance. The less resistance, the more power will be actually transferred to the users hands as it isn't needed to overcome resistance and get the wheel to turn in the first place.
So the smoothness and low resistance helps the feel and power transfer a lot.

Agree.

Sometimes I call it dynamic range. Just compare the weakest signals you can properly reproduce with the strongest, the ratio. High drag wheels can have some correction applied, but that is also a form of distortion in that the error is not always the same. Plus it takes away from the ultimate levels and unnecessarily raises device heat loading. It's better to have inherently low drag and low needed correction or "fudge factors" applied.

In photography a wide dynamic range image has detail in the deep shadows and also the highlights. You don't have to choose just one with capable equipment and technique. See also HDR photography. Ansel Adam's work too.

Same analogies can apply to Audio/Music. You can have a system and signal that is loud, but at less than medium to all out it is noisy and so detail is lost. Or in subwoofers (have lots of design experience there) you can have a system that plays nice and flat to low frequencies at quiet levels. But at higher levels it progressively compresses the lower notes and so they only get so loud.

Same basic principles. That's part of why I've enjoyed my ultra low drag CSR-E. Depending on how you measure and what assumption you use I wound up with 500 or 1000:1 ratios (or more) when I got drag down below 15 grams at the rim along with much higher peak forces. As a private research effort it convinced me that my guess was in the right direction as far as sim-wheel improvements go early on, so it was worth investigating further. It can also allow different car setups since you can wind up with a more catchable / feel-able racecar.

I'd like to see us come up with a new measurement covering the range of forces and their ability to transmit fun and feel to the driver with fidelity. It should be possible to come up with a few measurements that over time can help enthusiasts better understand their wheel options.

I wound up getting my freewheeling low enough to bounce off the stops. With a good snap it can do that a few times. I had to change the travel limiters out to get that done since the thread drag rises as they limit. Notice how the wheel likes to stop heavy side down, this was with about 15 grams of drag (three US nickel coins, 5 cents)

Warmed-Up_zpsc69f4871.gif
 
Last edited:
My CSW has died again. :banghead: This time the fans decided to stop working. Didn't know they had stopped until I had a huge drop in FFB, exited iracing and couldn't hear the fans spinning. Got the flashlight and sure as 🤬 they weren't spinning. Turned it off to cool and still no fans and it calibrates real slow now. Got the RMA today so its off to UPS yet again. :(
 
My CSW has died again. :banghead: This time the fans decided to stop working. Didn't know they had stopped until I had a huge drop in FFB, exited iracing and couldn't hear the fans spinning. Got the flashlight and sure as 🤬 they weren't spinning. Turned it off to cool and still no fans and it calibrates real slow now. Got the RMA today so its off to UPS yet again. :(
Maybe they'll send back a v2 :)
 
Maybe they'll send back a v2 :)

Would be nice, but highly unlikely. In the emails from the person at Fanatec they said they would be repairing it. Also when I had to get a new base instead of repair last time they sent the base before I had to return the defective one. This time I am just shipping it off and hoping it doesn't take too long to get it back. Guess its best it happened now, seeing as my warranty is up Oct. 2nd. :indiff:
 
I am just trying to trash my wheel, but as of yet I am unable to recognize any issues with my wheel. It's our job as beta testers to check reliability though. So yeah... even though I rather not have mine break down.
But to be honest. In most cases I tend to run the following profiles. Which one I choose depends on how the game's FFB is done.

- Default
- Default + DRI-5
- Default + DRI-5 + FOR-150

Last night I played some R3E with the last set of settings above. It was absolute bliss.
I tend to combine DRI-5 with FOR-150 often when I feel the wheel becomes too light when adding DRI-5 initially. Adding more power tends to give back the desired resistance, but it keeps the FFB dynamics that you have with no artificial dampening.
In some games there is just too much difference between, or more of a too sudden drop, between strong FFB and weak to no FFB at all. In those games I often just run with the default profile alone that has the artificial dampening added (so DRI-off).
I haven't adjusted the settings than much to be honest , but I shall.
I agree it's up to us to try and break it. I had exactly the same thoughts as you mate, I knew i should be pushing it to it's limits but didn't really want it to fail.
So far it's bullet proof :bowdown:
 
Also when I had to get a new base instead of repair last time they sent the base before I had to return the defective one. This time I am just shipping it off and hoping it doesn't take too long to get it back.

Maybe thats a good sign... Hopefully they'll just give you a V2. If it were me I would pitch a stink and demand the V2, even if it takes a long time to get
 
Just wanted to show you guys what 10Nm of torque is like on a belt drive.

Also so you guys know... he's using too much FFB for that 75. I have driven a 155 (borrowed it from the Alfa Romeo Specialist garage) and it is much easier to steer in than that. I don't think a 75 is much heavier.




Edit:
It really is not that high torque in the real car...

 
What sim is that? And is his rig mounted on dampers or something? If not it's real flimsy. My wheel at nearly 13Nm doesn't flop my old crappy rig around that bad.

NVM about the sim, clicked through to YouTube and see it's RF1.
 
2nd vid "almost" sounds like VR6... Almost.. intake mostly. I miss mine. It's being turbo'd being right now. :) '97 GTi

Also, based on the music in the vid, the mod is Touring Car Legends. Unless someone copied it.

Eric, try it out. It's good. Along with HistorX

Edit: as for wheel "effort" most folks haven't tried a vehicle without power steering. At rest, it's damn hard to turn the wheel. Far more than a measly 10Nm. However, once moving, that feeling is gone. rFactor does a great job of this. Not sure what the point is really... Instantaneous force hasnt been referenced here, has it?
 
Last edited:
@mrbasher Nice! You have all the fun cars. I will give it a try, looks good. And I totally agree about the steering. Even worse is a car with power steering that runs out of fluid or has a failed pump. Those are holy Schmidt level torque to turn. WAY more than 10Nm.

Reminds me of a story about my old '72 Camaro RS - it had no power brakes! Discs, but manual - no vacuum power boost. Anyway, I had driven it to work for about 3 weeks straight and then one day was running late and it was low on gas so I took my Jeep Cherokee instead. Everything was fine until I got to the first stop sign at the end of my road - at which point I promptly locked up all 4 tires on the Jeep! I had gotten so used to the pedal pressure in the Camaro I locked up a car with power brakes even when I thought I was being gentle! You can imagine the difference that was necessary for heavy braking in the Camaro!

@LogiForce: this video of the 10Nm rig goes back to some of the discussions we've had regarding Sims not being set up for more powerful wheels I think. The Sim is exaggerating the forces because it expects a wimpy wheel.
 
Yikes! I've not tried non-assisted brakes except on maybe a go kart or similar. Sounds difficult... The GTi has its power steering and AC removed as does my SBC S10. The S10 isn't too bad due to the size of the steering wheel but the GTi is a bear at anything under about 5-10 mph. Makes it feel like a go kart at speed though :)

For driving around town though, I'll stick with power steering :) My arms don't need a work out that badly.

Back on topic. I've used Leo's wheel and it was on 25% I believe. The sim was iRacing. To me it felt a lot like the forces in a passenger car. In the two race cars I've driven irl, the steering really just felt more "heavy" than a passenger car and of course more connected. Hitting curbs and grooves in the track definitely provided major feedback. This depends quite a bit on the car of course. The stock car I drove was considerably more harsh than the race prepped F430. With all its faults, I think GT6 does a decent job of at least trying to simulate these differences. I do not know if it does this on non-Thrustmaster wheels though. I haven't tested that.

Anyhow, I don't really have a point except that maybe the necessary "connectedness" is race car steering seems to lend itself to much higher instantaneous forces from things like curbs. Of the wheels I've used, the Bodnar and ECCI 7000 have been the most "realistic", both of which have pretty powerful motors. I wouldn't mind trying the V2 to see how it compares.
 
@mrbasher I have tried a car without power steering before. And yes, if the 75 had nopower steering than the way he has to work to turn the wheel would be correct. Especially at standstill.

About the point if posting the video. I just wanted to show forces higher than the CSWv2 so as to give an idea as to what is stronger and how it looks and probably feels. This way people don't get falls expectations of how strong the CSWv2 actually is. So yeah... it is not that strong. ;)

Also your experience goes to show that among cars, with or without power steering, there is still a LOT of difference in terms of wheel weight and feedback. Which in most cases boils down to the suspension & steering rack geometry and how the steering rack is connected to the knuckle. And of course how long the arm is on the knuckle to which the tie-rod end connects.

It's usually up to the game developer to get this right though, as they have to setup the data for the suspension & steering rack geometry.


@eKretz I agree, that rig is must too floppy. Though not much worse than my rSeat Evo in my opinion.

The discussion... yeah, I think its now up to the game developers to put in some effort to improve feedback for high torque wheels. There is little else we could do than tune down the forces. In some games there are sliders for road feedback and curbs so that you don't have to change the overall forces (i.e. wheel weight).
 
I just received an email from Fanatec telling me I will receive an ordering/discount code for a CSW v2 in the next several months. They say the codes will be distributed prioritizing original order date for the CRS-E and CSW v1.
 

Latest Posts

Back