Fanatec ClubSport and CSR Elite wheel owners Motor Mod Poll

[eKretz]

Not yet. Still waiting to hear back from the motor guy. I emailed him a few days ago but got no response. I'm going to try again today.

 

[eKretz]

Hoping he's not flaking out. I sent him my 2 spare Bühler motors and one of my Fana-Buchis.

 

[Carson79]

Hope he gets in touch. I will definitely want a motor block if this goes ahead.
I've lost count at how many replacements/repaired bases I've had. Only last week I replaced the motor block myself rather than send it to Germany

 

[eKretz]

Yeah me too. He seemed quite enthusiastic last time I talked to him, but it's been pretty quiet now for several weeks. If he fails to deliver I have a few other avenues waiting/available though.

 

[Cote Dazur]

Yeah me too. He seemed quite enthusiastic last time I talked to him, but it's been pretty quiet now for several weeks. If he fails to deliver I have a few other avenues waiting/available though.

Great work eKretz, lets hope he can deliver, good to know that you have more ressources if needed.👍

 

[MarkoSteinetti]

In the other thread it sounded like this would still be a topic.. any news on this? I'm really eager to replace the motors, but I'm struggling to find a distributor for the Bühlers you are using..

 

[eKretz]

The motor guy is still working on the prototypes, no news yet. The Bühlers are available on eBay all the time if you want to try them, usually around $20 each. Your stock power supply won't work though, and they won't just bolt in.

 

[Cote Dazur]

The motor guy is still working on the prototypes, no news yet. The Bühlers are available on eBay all the time if you want to try them, usually around $20 each. Your stock power supply won't work though, and they won't just bolt in.

I would love to try the Buhlers, but not bolt in is already a challenge, but I am not in a position to overcome the power supply issue, as I have no electronic knowledge.
Hopefully, thanks to your efforts, we will have access to the motors you are developing sooner than later.

 

[fatkrakr]

Hopefully, thanks to your efforts, we will have access to the motors you are developing sooner than later.

👍

 

[RacerXX]

If the Bühlers are routinely available for 40 per pair and a suitable fixed power supply for around the same, another option might be combining those two with a frame mod service. Some might like that approach.

I've had no major issues getting used Fana-Buchi motors cheap here and there. Have like 8 now. If everyone went after them they'd dry up fast though. I've bought them in "broken" wheels. Sometimes I've had the wheel sent to me, and sometimes just some of the internals.

All 8 work fine, two rejuvenated beautifully from "dead" with just some TLC. I even have one working as an ABS motor on my pedals…strong and very efficient in that application.

 

[eKretz]

I suppose that might be an option, but I think the mod motors will probably outperform the Bühlers thermally and power-wise, so I'm not sure it'd be worth it unless someone just had to have it right this second. The motor maker is just moving a little slower than I'd hoped because he is doing it as a sort of side project to keep costs down.

 

[Carson79]

If the Bühlers are routinely available for 40 per pair and a suitable fixed power supply for around the same, another option might be combining those two with a frame mod service. Some might like that approach.

I've had no major issues getting used Fana-Buchi motors cheap here and there. Have like 8 now. If everyone went after them they'd dry up fast though. I've bought them in "broken" wheels. Sometimes I've had the wheel sent to me, and sometimes just some of the internals.

All 8 work fine, two rejuvenated beautifully from "dead" with just some TLC. I even have one working as an ABS motor on my pedals…strong and very efficient in that application.

That is brilliant.
I suppose when you have the knowledge it make it easier to come up with these modifications.
Is there a way to send a signal to a tactile transducer to act as the abs motor?

 

[Cote Dazur]

Is no news good news?
Looking on the internet for RS 555, it is confusing, there is so many and with a lot of variations.
From all RS 555 out there is there one that would do the job as a replacement to the OEM

 

[eKretz]

No protos yet, the other 555's might work as a replacement if they have the proper specs but they wouldn't give any increased life or strength.

 

[Cote Dazur]

No protos yet, the other 555's might work as a replacement if they have the proper specs but they wouldn't give any increased life or strength.

yes this is understood, but as a fix waiting for a better motor, with improved life and strength, it would be nice to have at least a replacement when the original motors is developing issues.

The proper spec part is tricky, you seem to have developed great skill on that subject.👍

Being able to order a couple of motors, which will not harm the Power supply board and give decent performance, could be good.

 

[eKretz]

Well if you have any links to 555s I'll be happy to take a look for you. The main things you need are proper stall current so the power supply isn't overloaded and RPM that's close.

 

[Crispy]

For #1 how easy is a DIY install? My motors run perfectly fine but I have read scary stories about people's burning out, so I'd like to upgrade to more reliable ones. So it is just a simple take out the old motors and replace them with the new ones? Any soldering, or just bolt and plug in? Also how easy is it to refit the belts?

 

[LogiForce]

For #1 how easy is a DIY install? My motors run perfectly fine but I have read scary stories about people's burning out, so I'd like to upgrade to more reliable ones. So it is just a simple take out the old motors and replace them with the new ones? Any soldering, or just bolt and plug in? Also how easy is it to refit the belts?

Easy...

1. Remove plastic back cover (4 screws)
2. Remove metal fan in/outtakes (4 screws on the front + 2 fan cables)
3. Remove the motor unit (4 screws on the front + 2 motor cables)
4. Loosen up the left pulley (3 screws on the front)
5. Remove the front plate (6 screws on the front)
6. Remove belts.

Reverse procedure for putting everything back together.

 

[Cote Dazur]

@ Crispy, it is very easy to switch originals motors assembly, and if you do not change the belt, since you do not have to, you do not need step 5 and 6.

@ eKretz, this one for example:



Mabuchi Motor RS-555PH

Mabuchi Motor RS-555PH 12V DC Motor (9~20V) 57mm x 36mm


The RS-555PH from Mabuchi Motor is a stout DC motor useful as a common replacement for old style reel to reel tape decks by Akai and Teac. Originally offered as an OEM motor for ink jet printers and electric drills. Can also be used for many hobbyist projects such as radio controlled vehicles, robotics, model-building, home automation, and more! The 5-pole construction utilizes permanent magnets, so the motor produces high torque with high efficiency. Mounting is simplified by three 3 mm mounting holes on the face of the motor.

Specifications: • Speed (without load): 5560 rpm • Speed / Torque: 3950 rpm / 380.3 g–cm • Stall torque: 1360 g–cm • Current draw (at 5000 rpm): 1.25A • Nominal voltage: 12 VDC • Direction - Clockwise • Operating voltage: 7 to 12 VDC • Weight: 36 g • Shaft diameter: 3.0 mm • Shaft length: 10.5 mm • Dimensions: 37.5 mm x 57 mm.

Looking for proper stall current so the power supply isn't overloaded and RPM that's close. RPM is 5660, but stall current is not there, only stall torque! what value should I be looking for RPM and Stall Current?

 

[eKretz]

Well first off you need a 24VDC motor. That motor you posted would work at 24V most likely, but since it's rated at 12V all the specs will be off. For instance at 24V instead of 12V the RPM will be roughly doubled. If it stalls at 3.5A at 12V it will stall at ~7A at 24V. You need around 4200 RPM no load speed at 24V and about 2.5A stall current at 24V to ensure it will work and give about the same wheel RPM as the stock motors.

 

[Crispy]

@ Crispy, it is very easy to switch originals motors assembly, and if you do not change the belt, since you do not have to, you do not need step 5 and 6.

Easy...

1. Remove plastic back cover (4 screws)
2. Remove metal fan in/outtakes (4 screws on the front + 2 fan cables)
3. Remove the motor unit (4 screws on the front + 2 motor cables)
4. Loosen up the left pulley (3 screws on the front)
5. Remove the front plate (6 screws on the front)
6. Remove belts.

Reverse procedure for putting everything back together.

Thanks guys! Sounds pretty simple! I'd definitely go with a DIY kit then with motors to improve life and other things! Love my wheel but a little scared now do to the stories of many.

 

[Cote Dazur]

Any news about the prototype motors?

 

[eKretz]

Still waiting for the protos to arrive. Last I heard, the armatures were being wound.

 

[LogiForce]

Still waiting for the protos to arrive. Last I heard, the armatures were being wound.

Any news yet after 2 months of armature winding, or did the deal die a slow death?

 

[Mayaman]

Is Stan (RacerXX) a part of this, or is this between you and the motor manufacturer?

Will anyone be providing this service to those of us who are electronics mod challenged?

 

[cantudrummer]

Still waiting for the protos to arrive. Last I heard, the armatures were being wound.

eKretz put me in line for a pair or two!

 

[eKretz]

I emailed last week but no reply. Hopefully I will get my spare Bühler motors back. I also sent a Fana-Buchi that he can keep for all I care, but he's got 3 spools of premium magnet wire I sent too. I'm going to talk to guy #2 this week probably.

 

[LogiForce]

I emailed last week but no reply. Hopefully I will get my spare Bühler motors back. I also sent a Fana-Buchi that he can keep for all I care, but he's got 3 spools of premium magnet wire I sent too. I'm going to talk to guy #2 this week probably.

Begs the question, how reliable and fast wil guy #2 be?
Just wondering as it might be faster grabbing my own from some place and basically try my luck sticking to the specs you gave earlier. Which were...

- 24 VDC
- 2.5A stall current
- 4200 rpm no load revolutions

Though what's the Fana-Buchi can diameter, width and maybe screw hole distance?

 

[Cote Dazur]

Please do not give up eKretz, it usualy takes a few attempts to succeed in any project.
Thank you for helping improve our beloved CSR/CSW wheels.

 

[AGP5000]

Eric,

Please keep up on this. I, along with many others will greatly appreciate having parts meant for longevity in our wheels . I would have no problem sending this to you to have the proper belt tensions. I can do it myself, but would rather trust someone who has done the steps repeatedly.

Anthony