- 45
- Germany
Yes
Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4
- Thread starter PzR Slim
- 2,901 comments
- 412,194 views
- 217
- Netherlands
- GTR_Racer94
- RacerGTR94
Lighs too
- 45
- Germany
Base LEDs, i use the universal hub, so dont now wheel leds.
- 29
- United Kingdom
- AnythingBut66
Anyone have the issue where the thumbstick/dpad now acts as the camera view changer on the new FW? Anyway to change or remap it so it works the MFD instead?
- 340
- Maine/usa
- ron24
UPDATE From
Thomas Jackermeier on the Fanatec page.
GT Sport has been released and it works great with the Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel. Due to time constraints, Polyphony was not yet able to fully implement our wheel in the controller options menu but you can enjoy full force feedback and support for the rev lights and the ClubSport Shifter if you install the latest firmware 293 on your wheel.
This firmware has a revised compatibility mode which now adds compatibility to:
Polyphony assured us that they will fully implement our wheel and that they are working on it. In the meantime you can already enjoy the game with the compatibility mode.
Please let us know your preferred Tuning settings for the new games.
Thomas Jackermeier on the Fanatec page.
GT Sport has been released and it works great with the Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel. Due to time constraints, Polyphony was not yet able to fully implement our wheel in the controller options menu but you can enjoy full force feedback and support for the rev lights and the ClubSport Shifter if you install the latest firmware 293 on your wheel.
This firmware has a revised compatibility mode which now adds compatibility to:
- GT Sports
- F1 2016
- WRC6
- DriveClub
Polyphony assured us that they will fully implement our wheel and that they are working on it. In the meantime you can already enjoy the game with the compatibility mode.
Please let us know your preferred Tuning settings for the new games.
- 5,051
- Netherlands
Really a great effort to solve the GT sport compatibility! It seems to me they handed over fanatec sdk a long time ago and only at the last moment PD "forgot" to implement it in time. They probably also "forgot" to tell fanatec it's implementation wouldn't be ready in the release version.
Fanatec probably worked overtime to get out a new compatibility mode out to not disappoint its customers. Kudos that they finished it just before GT sports release. It is a workaround...
This gives me confidence that fanatec does truly care about its customers and I'm highly tempted to give them my money! But... the formula rim is backordered till 29-12-2017! So still have to wait till the end of the year before I will buy the wheel. Hopefully GT sport will Fully support the CSL by this time.
- 609
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
I'm curious for curiosity sakes, what this compatibility mode is? As in their CSW V1 and V2, those two bases had a "PS3" mode. All that did was make those wheel bases work on a PS3 and its driving games by pigging backing from emulated "Logitech drivers." For the first couple of PS4 driving games (F1 2015 and Project Cars 1), those two bases didn't need to be in PS3 mode. Those two games had the native Fanatec SDK in the games. Seems to me Fanatec just added Logitech emulation as the games it now says it works with all have native Logitech G29 drivers. I should mention, the CSW 1 and 2 had Logitech G25/27 emulation and not G29 if memory serves me. So G29 emulation is new to Fanatic. I'm willing to be you may lose this emulation in another firmware update once the SDK for Fanatec is implemented in GT Sport.
For now, I'm enjoying my CSW V2 with GT Sport ;-) "emulation" being the key word as to why that works.
For now, I'm enjoying my CSW V2 with GT Sport ;-) "emulation" being the key word as to why that works.
- 45
- Germany
If 316 is in 293 Driver for V2 that is nothing new... the new 335 Firmware is only for CSL Elite
To bad
Both usb? You should only have the USB coming from the wheel base connected to ps4 and pedals connected to wheel base with the phone wire. Only connect the pedals with USB if you using pc.Hey guys,
Pedals seem to not be working
So stressful
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- 77
- California
- motoman
- motoman617
Just ordered the CSL PS4 package this morning. Also added the load cell for the CSL brakes. Unfortunately the CSL PS4 base is out of stock here in the US right now.
Debated back and forth of what to get and this seemed like the most cost effective setup for console use. Have not had good luck with Thurustmaster products in the past so I will never buy from them again. Have had a CSR, CSW V2 and still have my original CS V1 pedal set. I have had very good luck with Fanatec products. This will be console gaming rig as I have a AccuForce Pro and HPP pedals in my main rig for PC racing. I also have a Drivehub in case I want to do any XB1 racing.
Looking forward to getting it. Hopefully next week like the site says.
Debated back and forth of what to get and this seemed like the most cost effective setup for console use. Have not had good luck with Thurustmaster products in the past so I will never buy from them again. Have had a CSR, CSW V2 and still have my original CS V1 pedal set. I have had very good luck with Fanatec products. This will be console gaming rig as I have a AccuForce Pro and HPP pedals in my main rig for PC racing. I also have a Drivehub in case I want to do any XB1 racing.
Looking forward to getting it. Hopefully next week like the site says.
- 609
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
A little disturbing... i was pretty pleased with the feeling in the wheel without force feedback.
Now with the updated firmware and purple mode the wheel centre spring effect is really irritating.
it is almost like going back to a G25 with the center swinging mode.
Can i revert to the older firmware?
I think the feeling in the wheel is much better with the older firmware without force feedback
i have tried changing DRI and FEI but almost like they are disturbing each other.
Now with the updated firmware and purple mode the wheel centre spring effect is really irritating.
it is almost like going back to a G25 with the center swinging mode.
Can i revert to the older firmware?
I think the feeling in the wheel is much better with the older firmware without force feedback
i have tried changing DRI and FEI but almost like they are disturbing each other.
- 2,810
- Tasmania, AU
- stigsdaddy
Set DRI to off, set FEI to off, and turn off the centring spring (SPR). I know the spring doesn't operate in native PS4 mode, but it does have an effect when in PC mode, so it might also work in the new compatibility mode. Also turn off DPR, which is a damper. See if that helps.
Just downloaded the new FW and tried PC2 in compatibility mode. It's awful. Really no better than the already terrible native support, and quite possibly worse.
In PS4 mode, PC2 has no subtle FFB effects in "raw" flavour, all that is present is the centring forces, which also feel bugged and unrealistic. In "immersive", it brings some road surface effects into play, but they feel odd, like canned effects, and very unrealistic. This flavour is currently the best there is in PC2 for the CSL-E. "informative" is totally useless and just feels so wrong it's difficult to put into words.
In the G29 compatibility mode, raw now has some detail, but it's all kinds of wrong. It mostly oscillates badly from one side to the other, often making the wheel clunky at centre. Immersive isn't really much better, or even much different for that matter, and Informative is also much the same. None of them feel realistic, not even slightly, they all have bugger all feel for the road or kerbs or anything like that, and the FFB doesn't change in any of the flavours when your front wheels lose grip (the wheel should go light like it does in AC when the front wheels are pushed beyond their grip limit).
But the absolute worst part is the oscillations. Going straight, the wheel is pushing left-right-left-right constantly, and it can be seen in the FFB graph on the telemetry HUD. If you loosen your grip on the rim, the oscillations get very powerful, and I actually scared myself a little when I let go of the wheel and the game slammed it from one rack end to the other, violently and quickly, so bloody hard I thought it was going to break the wheel. I'd be seriously surprised if any of these wheels would cope with that for long, it sounded nasty as! The oscillations also form pretty much 90% of what you feel through the wheel. Without them there'd be almost no feedback. When you turn in to a corner, the wheel won't load up as it should, it will simply continue to oscillate back and forth, making the FFB go completely light momentarily mid-corner, and then go heavy again. Long corners feel so weird because of this, as the wheel will go light-heavy-light-heavy without you changing the steering angle, and without hitting anything like kerbs or bumps. Even when going really slowly, like 40kph, the wheel is violently oscillating. It even does it when you come to a complete stop and leave the car parked, the front wheels will go from one lock to another violently and constantly. It's a joke.
To summarise: I think the FFB is completely broken in PC2. It definitely shouldn't feel like this with any wheel, it's just awful. There's little to no subtle feedback regardless of whether the game thinks the wheel is a G29 or a CSL-E, the feedback you do get feels like big lumps (for lack of a better way to put it), and the wheel in G29 mode will simply load and unload constantly, to the point it may well damage the wheel.
I tried all three "flavours", and put in some numbers that were recommended by G29 users on the official Pcars forum. I would not recommend anyone try this game in G29 mode, as it seriously can't be good for the wheel. There's something major wrong with PC2's FFB. It feels especially poor because I just turned off AC and put PC2 on to try this. After playing AC for about an hour, PC2 doesn't have one single element to the FFB that feels realistic ATM. Considering all the praise people on PC have heaped on PC2, I'd guess there's simply some major bugs in the FFB for console versions (or at least PS4).
Edit: I'll leave the original post there above, but I have more or less found a fix for the problems.
It seems the new FW has changed how the FEI (force effects intensity) tuning menu option works. In the previous FW, it went from 000 to 010, with 000 being unchanged FFB from the game, and 010 being the maximum smoothing applied to the FFB, to reduce the infamous clunking. Now the setting goes from OFF to 100, in stages of ten. The main difference now is that "OFF" operates as the maximum smoothing of the FFB, and "100" is the pure FFB from the game. So in effect they've swapped it around. 100 is the new 000, and OFF is the new 010. I discovered this when testing the new compatibility mode in Driveclub.
Another thing I found in Driveclub was that with the centre spring turned off (how I have it all the time, since it used to be only for PC mode AFAIK), there was no FFB. When I tried turning the spring up, I didn't get the regular simple centring spring, I got the FFB from the game. I played around with various setting on the wheel, since DC's FFB is simply on or off, and found out that with the centre spring up about half way, and the FEI turned most of the way up (all the way brought the clunking back), and the game felt pretty damn good, considering I wasn't expecting much from the FFB from this game.
After this, I wondered if this new compatibility mode was more complex than simply a G29 emulator, so I plugged the wheel back into my laptop, and opened the "game controllers" application. In PS4 or PC mode, the wheel is detected as a CSL-E PS4, but in compatibility mode it doesn't come up as a G29, but rather a "6 axis 14 button device with hat switch". To me, this confirms this new mode is more than simply a G29 emulator. Although in Pcars 2 it registers as a G29, in Driveclub it works quite differently, requiring the use of the centre spring to enable the FFB. I'll test this with other old games too to see if they all require the spring like DC does, and report back when I have.
Now back to PC2. Since DC required the spring to enable the FFB, and in playing DC I discovered the switch around of the FEI setting, I though I had better try PC2 again to see if I could get it feeling better. The obvious difference would be in the FFB smoothing from the FEI being set to off when I tried it (which I now knew was like trying it out with the old FEI set to max). I tried it in raw first, and was pleasantly surprised to find that I could feel some road and kerb effects. There was a lot of clunking with FEI at 100, so I reduced it enough to take the harshness out of the clunking, but not enough to mute the effects.
However, the crazy oscillations were still there. That's when I had a kind of eureka moment: Since PC2 thinks I'm using a G29, a wheel well known for having a ton of internal friction, perhaps the game weakens the FFB when you're trying to turn, even assisting the wheel if you try to turn quickly against the FFB. This is how the drift mode on Fanatec wheels works, and I remember with my old CSR, if you turned DRI up too high, it would introduce bad oscillations on some games. Thanks to the CSL-E having such low friction, it's drift mode goes into the minuses, in order to artificially create some internal friction, just in case you need it to dampen any oscillations in a game. So I tried turning DRI to -5, and it dulled out a lot of the oscillating! Ok, so this worked alright in raw, worked very well in informative, but didn't work well at all in immersive.
After testing a number of settings, both on the wheel and in-game, I've arrived at this conclusion:
It does work in PC2, and makes the FFB a lot better than the broken native support for our wheels, but you have to mess about with some settings, otherwise it feels like a nightmare.
On the wheel, you'll want to set your drift mode to -5, which removes enough of the oscillating to make it playable (note that it doesn't remove all oscillations, there are still quite a lot at high speed, but it does remove enough to make the game playable). Then set the FEI to 100, which removes all FEI filtering, test, then reduce it enough that you find a middle-ground between too much clunking and too filtered and soft FFB effects. For me, 070 worked well.
Then you'll want to go into the FFB settings in-game, and set the flavour to informative (raw is ok, but not great, and immersive is terrible). The individual settings are up to you, but I simply took some recommended G29 settings and turned the volume right down to 20, because the wheel weight was way too high at the recommended volume, likely because this wheel is so much more powerful than the G29 the recommended settings were for.
My in-game settings are:
Gain - 100
Volume - 20
Tone - 35
FX - 40
With these settings, the game is actually playable now with this wheel, which is very nice. The FFB still doesn't feel particularly great, but it's there, and it doesn't feel too bad now. It's definitely playable like this, so if you simply can't wait for SMS to fix the native support for our wheels, this is an acceptable workaround IMO.
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- 2,810
- Tasmania, AU
- stigsdaddy
Ok, I'm going to make a new post, as the one above is already a novel.
I've just finished testing Project CARS 1 and The Crew. Here are my findings:
The Crew doesn't detect the wheel at all, regardless of which mode the wheel is set to, nothing works. Bit disappointing since my old CSR worked great in this game, but it's no big deal for me, as I'd be unlikely to play The Crew again anyway.
In Pcars it works a treat. It's detected as a G29, same as PC2. Unlike PC2, the FFB of PC1 isn't bugged to hell, so this wheel on PC1 is actually really bloody good. It doesn't require any negative DRI setting, as there isn't any excessive oscillation in-game, and the FFB effects are also a bit less harsh, so turning down the FEI isn't necessary. The only changes required are reducing the steering gain in the FFB settings from 3.00 to 1.00, adding a small amount of deadzone removal range from 0 to 5, removing the steering deadzone from 1 to 0, and lowering the per car FFB master until the wheel weight is how you want it. I tested this with the Formula C on Bathurst, and after reducing the per car FFB master from 24 to 14, it felt fantastic. I had forgotten just how good the first Pcars is, after the year and a half of patches addressed most of it's issues.
It feels about a million times better than Pcars 2, and that's with both games recognising the wheel as a G29. There's something seriously wrong with PC2's FFB, because even with all the messing about I did to get it to a usable point, it's still so bad compared with the almost out of the box FFB feel of PC1. Really hope it gets fixed soon, because it's a sad state of affairs when you pay $100 for a new game, and it feels like utter garbage compared with it's 2 and a half year old prequel.
In any case, it's nice that PC1 works so well with our wheels in the new compatibility mode. I might even get back into it while I wait for SMS to fix PC2
I haven't tested Sebastien Loeb Rally or Dirt Rally yet, but when I do, I'll report back with my findings, provided someone else hasn't already tested them before me.
I've just finished testing Project CARS 1 and The Crew. Here are my findings:
The Crew doesn't detect the wheel at all, regardless of which mode the wheel is set to, nothing works. Bit disappointing since my old CSR worked great in this game, but it's no big deal for me, as I'd be unlikely to play The Crew again anyway.
In Pcars it works a treat. It's detected as a G29, same as PC2. Unlike PC2, the FFB of PC1 isn't bugged to hell, so this wheel on PC1 is actually really bloody good. It doesn't require any negative DRI setting, as there isn't any excessive oscillation in-game, and the FFB effects are also a bit less harsh, so turning down the FEI isn't necessary. The only changes required are reducing the steering gain in the FFB settings from 3.00 to 1.00, adding a small amount of deadzone removal range from 0 to 5, removing the steering deadzone from 1 to 0, and lowering the per car FFB master until the wheel weight is how you want it. I tested this with the Formula C on Bathurst, and after reducing the per car FFB master from 24 to 14, it felt fantastic. I had forgotten just how good the first Pcars is, after the year and a half of patches addressed most of it's issues.
It feels about a million times better than Pcars 2, and that's with both games recognising the wheel as a G29. There's something seriously wrong with PC2's FFB, because even with all the messing about I did to get it to a usable point, it's still so bad compared with the almost out of the box FFB feel of PC1. Really hope it gets fixed soon, because it's a sad state of affairs when you pay $100 for a new game, and it feels like utter garbage compared with it's 2 and a half year old prequel.In any case, it's nice that PC1 works so well with our wheels in the new compatibility mode. I might even get back into it while I wait for SMS to fix PC2
I haven't tested Sebastien Loeb Rally or Dirt Rally yet, but when I do, I'll report back with my findings, provided someone else hasn't already tested them before me.
