Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

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@super_gt

Supe, I should really also take my wheel off of my rig when not in use. I have a quick release and I guess there is no reason really not to take it off.

I haven't driven in a week and half, and that was the first time in 2018 that I did drive (family stuff). That said I did have her covered in storage.
 
Last edited:
Mirror_man
Important Info!!

Just found out a new Driver and Firmware on Fanatec Site : Driver Version 310!
Click to expand...


This was reported earlier, but Mirror_man, seriously always appreciated and it is worth mentioning whenever a new update comes up.

They slip by sometimes.

Thanks man, and to the others that have mentioned it.
 
BuckFly
This was reported earlier, but Mirror_man, seriously always appreciated and it is worth mentioning whenever a new update comes up.

They slip by sometimes.

Thanks man, and to the others that have mentioned it.
Click to expand...


I have my CLS for almost a month... and only have seen it today!!! (I had the 293 version installed) ... Did you feel any changes of the behavior of the wheel?
 
Meanwhile.. I´ve fine tuned the settings... on the Wheel and on GTS, and now I find that the under steering effect is there alright, but totally acceptable and controllable!!! As I´m not at home and I haven´t written the config on paper- only this night when I´ll go home I´ll be able to share it!
 
BrainsBush
Thats correct because the latest version got released yesterday

Now unpacking and installing my new McLaren GT3 wheel :D
Click to expand...

The new Driver has to do mostly with the new Mclaren Rig...



Regarding my fine tuning of the wheel for GTS only... here it goes:


My Best Settings
================

a) On GTS config:

- Wheel turning sensitivity: 2 (you may try some variations between 1 and 5 depending on car and track...)
- FFB Torque: 9 !!! (may go to 10!!!! if you like to feel the steering a bit heavier)
- FFB sensitivity: 10

b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: 084 (variations from Automatic, until 72 depending on car and track...)
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF (variations from -2 to + 2 depending on car, track and your taste/feeling)
- FOR: 020 (if you like an heavier feeling on the wheel raise to 30... Aditionally... you may also raise on GTS FFB Torque to 10... if you like it really heavy... of course...)
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! )

You´ll still feel some under steering vibration but if you keep FOR on 20 and GTS FFB on 9, it will not be unpleasant at all.. and you´ll see that it even helps you.. giving you an important information about the trajectory you are using...

Please try this setup!!!!!
(FANATEC CSL PS4 Base setup only with brake cell mode)
 
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Hi gents. I installed the latest firmware this morning but I have a little rattle effect each time a new screen loads in GTS. Never had that with v293. Is there a way to reinstall v293 instead of 310?
 
So after each update it takes me a while to get the wheel settings correct again. After this last one my wheel now oscillates by itself, sometimes imperceptibly and others very violently. This can occur when at the main menu, while a game is loading or while on track waiting for the countdown. Sounds similar to the above post. Any suggestions from the Fanatec wizards?
 
Mine has strong spring like resistance, but it always return slowly back to center with 0 drift setup. Probably even slower than during calibration. Not once i've experienced sudden movements in GT Sport.
 
Knukel
Mine has strong spring like resistance, but it always return slowly back to center with 0 drift setup. Probably even slower than during calibration. Not once i've experienced sudden movements in GT Sport.
Click to expand...
Mine does not return to center without taking hold of the wheel.
 
Jason Gill
So after each update it takes me a while to get the wheel settings correct again. After this last one my wheel now oscillates by itself, sometimes imperceptibly and others very violently. This can occur when at the main menu, while a game is loading or while on track waiting for the countdown. Sounds similar to the above post. Any suggestions from the Fanatec wizards?
Click to expand...
I had that isseu before the update... worst... it happened several times during the warmup lap when racing online!!! And I had to very quicky swithc off an ont the wheel... and expect to do al lthat on time before the race trully starts!!!! Happened to me at least 3 times before the update!
 
Mirror_man
I had that isseu before the update... worst... it happened several times during the warmup lap when racing online!!! And I had to very quicky swithc off an ont the wheel... and expect to do al lthat on time before the race trully starts!!!! Happened to me at least 3 times before the update!
Click to expand...
Tried that. No luck!
 
Jason Gill
So after each update it takes me a while to get the wheel settings correct again. After this last one my wheel now oscillates by itself, sometimes imperceptibly and others very violently. This can occur when at the main menu, while a game is loading or while on track waiting for the countdown. Sounds similar to the above post. Any suggestions from the Fanatec wizards?
Click to expand...

I've been experiencing this too. Minor oscillation of wheel when sitting on a menu screen, it started happening after the last GTS update. This is different than the violent oscillation that would occur prior to a race where you have to quickly cycle power to get it to stop. I'm still running version 293 on the wheel as I just discovered there is a new update for the wheel from reading this thread. :)
 
Where can i check i have the latest and correct wheel firmware? Does it flash the correct one automatically? If i recall correctly my Fanatec driver is v.310 and wheel firmware is 448(?). How do i flash earlier wheel firmwares?
P.S. Tried Googling version 448, but without results related to CSL Elite. Wonder if i've managed to fail firmware update...
 
Knukel
Where can i check i have the latest and correct wheel firmware? Does it flash the correct one automatically? If i recall correctly my Fanatec driver is v.310 and wheel firmware is 448(?). How do i flash earlier wheel firmwares?
P.S. Tried Googling version 448, but without results related to CSL Elite. Wonder if i've managed to fail firmware update...
Click to expand...
When the wheel starts up and calibrates it flashes the version at the 12 o’clock position I believe.
 
Knukel
Where can i check i have the latest and correct wheel firmware? Does it flash the correct one automatically? If i recall correctly my Fanatec driver is v.310 and wheel firmware is 448(?). How do i flash earlier wheel firmwares?
P.S. Tried Googling version 448, but without results related to CSL Elite. Wonder if i've managed to fail firmware update...
Click to expand...

1.....you can to see which version of firmware you have by what Jason said and also go to this webpage.....https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/racin...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet

2....I'm not sure how long Fanatec posts their earlier versions of the files but you can get them from the aforementioned website.

3....The instructions for flashing(pdf file) comes with the firmware update. Of course you will have to use a PC or laptop for this.

4....I don't know if GT Sport flashes the current firmware automatically or not. I simply do it myself to make sure it is installed.

I hope this is what you were asking and it helps.

Keith.
 
Jason Gill
When the wheel starts up and calibrates it flashes the version at the 12 o’clock position I believe.
Click to expand...
You flashed the latest firmware, didn't you? Do you remember your firmware number?

Edit: Fanatec site: "Latest firmware version
The latest firmware for this product is included with the most recent drivers and cannot be downloaded separately"

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Knukel
You flashed the latest firmware, didn't you? Do you remember your firmware number?

Edit: Fanatec site: "Latest firmware version
The latest firmware for this product is included with the most recent drivers and cannot be downloaded separately"

Thanks.
Click to expand...



Firmware number is v.310

The latest firmware for this product is included with the most recent drivers and cannot be downloaded separately"

Disregard this. You can re-flash the firmware anytime you want.

Keith.
 
I tested the new driver version 310 and firmware 448 on my CSL Elite ps4 wheel and Project Cars 2 PC.

- 1. I installed only the driver, but did not updated my firmware (it was 335).
I didn't notice any difference.

- 2. I upgraded the firmware to 448, calibrated it and made all the settings I used to have in tuning menu and
I noticed that the wheel feels somehow different especially in slow moves around the center - like it is having kind of "variable" deadzone or different sensitivity around the center. Because of that the wheel were not perfectly aligned with the onscreen wheel at the center position - again difference were variable maybe from 0-3 degrees.

- 3. Uninstalled 310 drivers and installed 293, without downgrading firmware.
The feeling was exactly the same as in 2.

- 4. Downgraded the firmware to 335
Everything is fine...


So all combinations tested driver310/fw335, driver310/fw448, driver293/fw448, driver293/fw335
The difference comes only from the firmware. And for me 335 feels much better, at least in project cars 2 pc.
The difference in driver is that 310 removes damper settings slider and also shows the motor firmware version.
 
Last edited:
edhunterbg
I tested the new driver version 310 and firmware 448 on my CSL Elite ps4 wheel and Project Cars 2 PC.

- 1. I installed only the driver, but did not updated my firmware (it was 335).
I didn't notice any difference.

- 2. I upgraded the firmware to 448, calibrated it and made all the settings I used to have in tuning menu and
I noticed that the wheel feels somehow different especially in slow moves around the center - like it is having kind of "variable" deadzone or different sensitivity around the center. Because of that the wheel were not perfectly aligned with the onscreen wheel at the center position - again difference were variable maybe from 0-3 degrees.

- 3. Uninstalled 310 drivers and installed 293, without downgrading firmware.
The feeling was exactly the same as in 2.

- 4. Downgraded the firmware to 335
Everything is fine...


So all combinations tested driver310/fw335, driver310/fw448, driver293/fw448, driver293/fw335
The difference comes only from the firmware. And for me 335 feels much better, at least in project cars 2 pc.
The difference in driver is that 310 removes damper settings slider and also shows the motor firmware version.
Click to expand...
THAT is a very interesting post for me!!! I now understand how this thing works.

My question is: How can you install the firmware separately from the driver? You need the .hex file for that, right?
 
I tried with hex files.
When I was on drivers 310 I tried to load in the tool one by one all hex files (the ones from drivers 310 and the ones I kept on disk from previous 293 drivers), but only one was recognized - 448 version.
So in order to downgrade the firmware I had also to downgrade to previous 293 driver.
 
Jason Gill
Tried that. No luck!
Click to expand...
This has stopped with last GTS update (1.18) ... I´ve also the last firmware and driver updates from Fanatec...
All I have now is a very tinny (almost imperceptible) jolt on the wheel as a re centering, when online races are to begin... a really minor thin, nothing problematic at all... almost don´t notice it...
 
Apologies if this was mentioned before but I have the following two issues. I only play GTS.

1. The gas pedal is not calibrated properly. Basically 90% throttle is actually 100% throttle in game. Is there a way to recalibrate the gas pedal?
2. Since the latest GTS update, the wheel wobble appeared again. So basically, if I don't hold the steering wheel in the straights, it will start shaking violently from side to side. It's actually worse than in compatibility mode (that one mode that simulates the G29).

Many thanks if anyone could give me a quick help with those two points.
 
4everdelayed
Apologies if this was mentioned before but I have the following two issues. I only play GTS.

1. The gas pedal is not calibrated properly. Basically 90% throttle is actually 100% throttle in game. Is there a way to recalibrate the gas pedal?
2. Since the latest GTS update, the wheel wobble appeared again. So basically, if I don't hold the steering wheel in the straights, it will start shaking violently from side to side. It's actually worse than in compatibility mode (that one mode that simulates the G29).

Many thanks if anyone could give me a quick help with those two points.
Click to expand...

1.You may calibrate it, on Manual Calibration using the driver/Dedicated Control Panel and the PC!

2.If that is happening ot means that your settings need correction...

Try these... (I have no problems at all, I assure you!), read notes for each setting.. please!


My Best Settings
================

a) On GTS config:

- Wheel turning sensitivity: 2 (you may try some variations between 1 and 5!!! depending on car and track...)
- FFB Torque: 9 !!! (may go to 10!!!! if you like to feel the steering a bit heavier)
- FFB sensitivity: 10

b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: 084 (variations from Automatic, until 72 depending on car and track...)
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF (variations from -2 to + 2 depending on car, track and your taste/feeling)
- FOR: 020 (if you like an heavier feeling on the wheel raise to 30 (eventually 40)... Aditionally... you may also raise on GTS FFB Torque to 10... if you like it really heavy... of course...)
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! )

You´ll still feel some under steering vibration occasionally, but if you keep FOR on 20 and GTS FFB on 9, it will not be unpleasant at all.. and you´ll see that it even helps you.. giving you an important information about the trajectory you are using...

Please try this setup!!!!!
(FANATEC CSL PS4 Base setup only with brake cell mode)


Example: Yesterday on BB raceway, with the Supra GT3, I verified that GTS Wheel turning sensitivity: 4 or 5 were very good together with GTS FFB Torque on 10, CSL Sens on 72, CSL FOR on 20, and CSL FEI on 100 (Just for this race and car)
 
Last edited:
Mirror_man
1.You may calibrate it, on Manual Calibration using the driver/Dedicated Control Panel and the PC!

2.If that is happening ot means that your settings need correction...

Try these... (I have no problems at all, I assure you!), read notes for each setting.. please!


My Best Settings
================

a) On GTS config:

- Wheel turning sensitivity: 2 (you may try some variations between 1 and 5!!! depending on car and track...)
- FFB Torque: 9 !!! (may go to 10!!!! if you like to feel the steering a bit heavier)
- FFB sensitivity: 10

b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: 084 (variations from Automatic, until 72 depending on car and track...)
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF (variations from -2 to + 2 depending on car, track and your taste/feeling)
- FOR: 020 (if you like an heavier feeling on the wheel raise to 30... Aditionally... you may also raise on GTS FFB Torque to 10... if you like it really heavy... of course...)
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! )

You´ll still feel some under steering vibration occasionally, but if you keep FOR on 20 and GTS FFB on 9, it will not be unpleasant at all.. and you´ll see that it even helps you.. giving you an important information about the trajectory you are using...

Please try this setup!!!!!
(FANATEC CSL PS4 Base setup only with brake cell mode)


Example: Yesterday on BB raceway, with the Supra GT3, I verified that GTS Wheel turning sensitivity: 4 or 5 were very good together with GTS FFB Torque on 10, CSL Sens on 72, CSL FOR on 20, and CSL FEI on 100 (Just for this race and car)
Click to expand...
My settings are very stable too IMO, but I give a shot to yours tomorrow, sounds interesting :cheers:
 
Mirror_man
1.You may calibrate it, on Manual Calibration using the driver/Dedicated Control Panel and the PC!

2.If that is happening ot means that your settings need correction...

Try these... (I have no problems at all, I assure you!), read notes for each setting.. please!


My Best Settings
================

a) On GTS config:

- Wheel turning sensitivity: 2 (you may try some variations between 1 and 5!!! depending on car and track...)
- FFB Torque: 9 !!! (may go to 10!!!! if you like to feel the steering a bit heavier)
- FFB sensitivity: 10

b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: 084 (variations from Automatic, until 72 depending on car and track...)
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF (variations from -2 to + 2 depending on car, track and your taste/feeling)
- FOR: 020 (if you like an heavier feeling on the wheel raise to 30 (eventually 40)... Aditionally... you may also raise on GTS FFB Torque to 10... if you like it really heavy... of course...)
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: Off (or 10)
- FEI: 090 (or... 100!!!! )

You´ll still feel some under steering vibration occasionally, but if you keep FOR on 20 and GTS FFB on 9, it will not be unpleasant at all.. and you´ll see that it even helps you.. giving you an important information about the trajectory you are using...

Please try this setup!!!!!
(FANATEC CSL PS4 Base setup only with brake cell mode)


Example: Yesterday on BB raceway, with the Supra GT3, I verified that GTS Wheel turning sensitivity: 4 or 5 were very good together with GTS FFB Torque on 10, CSL Sens on 72, CSL FOR on 20, and CSL FEI on 100 (Just for this race and car)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips!

Is the calibration software different from the one used for the initial setup of the wheel? I didnt see any calibration options for the pedals there.

Btw forgot to mention that I dont have the load cell.
 

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