Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

[DomB_Fanatec]

Anyone have any setting advise for the Formula V2 Wheel on GTSport? It seems nomatter what value i adjust it will go into what i would describe as a "DeathWobble/Ratchet sensation" around turns? More so in the Gr4 car's at suzuka than the gr2's at Autopolis.This is a brand new setup with version V328 Driver,It will do the same thing with the Csl elite wheel?

I think you might be referring to a general characteristic of GT Sport's FFB output. When a car understeers in the game, the FFB generates an exaggerated vibration effect of front tyre scrub. If you are getting this in every turn, you are likely understeering too much and you should try to reduce the amount of steering lock. This is sometimes a result of incorrect steering sensitivity, causing the in-game wheel to turn through more degrees than the wheel in your hands. Make sure that the 'SEN' value in the Tuning Menu is set to 'Auto' and that the in-game steering wheel is rotating 1:1 with the physical wheel. Negative 'DRI' (Drift Mode) values can also help, -2 or -3 works well. Lower FEI (Force Effect Intensity) values (below 050) also reduce the harshness of this kind of vibration.

It is also possible that you are running the in-game force feedback effects too high, causing clipping, which can also result in some unusual effects through turns. 'Force Feedback Max Torque' shouldn't be set higher than 5. I set 'Force Feedback Sensitivity' to 1.

 

[KenboZX10r]

I think you might be referring to a general characteristic of GT Sport's FFB output. When a car understeers in the game, the FFB generates an exaggerated vibration effect of front tyre scrub. If you are getting this in every turn, you are likely understeering too much and you should try to reduce the amount of steering lock. This is sometimes a result of incorrect steering sensitivity, causing the in-game wheel to turn through more degrees than the wheel in your hands. Make sure that the 'SEN' value in the Tuning Menu is set to 'Auto' and that the in-game steering wheel is rotating 1:1 with the physical wheel. Negative 'DRI' (Drift Mode) values can also help, -2 or -3 works well. Lower FEI (Force Effect Intensity) values (below 050) also reduce the harshness of this kind of vibration.

It is also possible that you are running the in-game force feedback effects too high, causing clipping, which can also result in some unusual effects through turns. 'Force Feedback Max Torque' shouldn't be set higher than 5. I set 'Force Feedback Sensitivity' to 1.

 

[KenboZX10r]

Thank You so Much ,That is it For Sure and i will make these Adjustments as soon as i get home from work and test it out! Yes this is happening right along with the understeer so I'm For Sure You have me back on the Right Track ,Thanks Again!

 

[KenboZX10r]

Sorry i think i hit the wrong button.

 

[Bartje_K77]

I think you might be referring to a general characteristic of GT Sport's FFB output. When a car understeers in the game, the FFB generates an exaggerated vibration effect of front tyre scrub. If you are getting this in every turn, you are likely understeering too much and you should try to reduce the amount of steering lock. This is sometimes a result of incorrect steering sensitivity, causing the in-game wheel to turn through more degrees than the wheel in your hands. Make sure that the 'SEN' value in the Tuning Menu is set to 'Auto' and that the in-game steering wheel is rotating 1:1 with the physical wheel. Negative 'DRI' (Drift Mode) values can also help, -2 or -3 works well. Lower FEI (Force Effect Intensity) values (below 050) also reduce the harshness of this kind of vibration.

It is also possible that you are running the in-game force feedback effects too high, causing clipping, which can also result in some unusual effects through turns. 'Force Feedback Max Torque' shouldn't be set higher than 5. I set 'Force Feedback Sensitivity' to 1.

Great advice man. But now you got me really wondering what other settings you use for GT Sport. Would you like to share these with us? Like in game and on the wheel? Would be much appreciated!

 

[AdamMorcs]

I use 8 torque 5 sensitivity and 480 degree steering. I like having a shorter wheel rotation. What driver is everyone using ? I was using 328 beta. But just went back to the 311 so my McLaren toggle switches work again

 

[Keith2324]

The question which has always bugged me is when setting wheel rotation, does the software have to be set to 1080 degrees, or can it be set to some thing else? And if it is set to something else, does the wheel setting have to match it?

Keith.

 

[KenboZX10r]

DomB Fanatec,Thank's Again for the Tips they worked perfect/

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

Great advice man. But now you got me really wondering what other settings you use for GT Sport. Would you like to share these with us? Like in game and on the wheel? Would be much appreciated!

Sure, the settings I mentioned in the previous post are the important things, but here's a bit more detail for GT Sport and the CSL Elite base:

Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference
DRI -03
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
BRF User Preference
FEI 040

In-Game Settings:
Force Feedback Max Torque: 5
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

The question which has always bugged me is when setting wheel rotation, does the software have to be set to 1080 degrees, or can it be set to some thing else? And if it is set to something else, does the wheel setting have to match it?

Keith.

In the vast majority of modern sims, the in-game wheel rotation is intended to match the physical rotation of your wheel (while being reasonably accurate in terms of the real car steering ratio). This wasn't the case a few years ago, but most developers are being more careful about this now. Most PC games set their rotation with a calibration wizard, so it's generally recommended to put 'SEN' at 1080, run the calibration wizard, and then every car should work correctly. Whereas on console, most games use the 'Auto' setting, which does everything without calibration. You can of course manually change the SEN value if you wish, as AdamMorcs described above (many race cars in GT Sport use a 540 degree lock, so using SEN at Auto or SEN at 540 should rotate 1:1 for those cars. Running SEN at 480 would make the in-game steering input slightly 'quicker' than your physical input, which can make the steering feel more responsive, but it is usually less realistic, and there is a greater risk of steering too much, generating understeer and/or front tyre wear).

The 'Auto' sensitivity setting works correctly on GT Sport (the idea is that you just leave it on Auto and every car in the game should have the appropriate 'realistic' steering lock, always matching 1:1 with your input). You have to be careful if you move this value away from 'Auto' while driving, as it usually does not reset until you restart the sim (or at least reload the track). Unfortunately, not every game developer uses this feature, and those that do sometimes use it in different ways, so if you switch between racing games regularly, it's a good idea to check whether the in-game wheel is rotating with your inputs correctly.

 

[Keith2324]

In the vast majority of modern sims, the in-game wheel rotation is intended to match the physical rotation of your wheel (while being reasonably accurate in terms of the real car steering ratio). This wasn't the case a few years ago, but most developers are being more careful about this now. Most PC games set their rotation with a calibration wizard, so it's generally recommended to put 'SEN' at 1080, run the calibration wizard, and then every car should work correctly. Whereas on console, most games use the 'Auto' setting, which does everything without calibration. You can of course manually change the SEN value if you wish, as AdamMorcs described above (many race cars in GT Sport use a 540 degree lock, so using SEN at Auto or SEN at 540 should rotate 1:1 for those cars. Running SEN at 480 would make the in-game steering input slightly 'quicker' than your physical input, which can make the steering feel more responsive, but it is usually less realistic, and there is a greater risk of steering too much, generating understeer and/or front tyre wear).

The 'Auto' sensitivity setting works correctly on GT Sport (the idea is that you just leave it on Auto and every car in the game should have the appropriate 'realistic' steering lock, always matching 1:1 with your input). You have to be careful if you move this value away from 'Auto' while driving, as it usually does not reset until you restart the sim (or at least reload the track). Unfortunately, not every game developer uses this feature, and those that do sometimes use it in different ways, so if you switch between racing games regularly, it's a good idea to check whether the in-game wheel is rotating with your inputs correctly.[/QUOTE]


So if I'm reading this correctly, when calibrating the wheel, I should leave the wheel setting in Auto and the software setting at 1080. Then while in the game, (GT Sport) I should be able to use either 540 or Auto to get the proper wheel rotation.

Keith.

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

Which 'software setting' you are referring to there?

 

[Keith2324]

The software setting in the Fanatec Wheel Property page.

 

[Bartje_K77]

@DomB_Fanatec
Thank you very much! Btw, I've used the new beta driver V330 with the new firmwares (also a new motor fw this time!) and it is solid. But I haven't had a single regret about purchasing the CSL Elite anyway. Keep up the good work!

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

The software setting in the Fanatec Wheel Property page.

The software setting on the Fanatec Wheel Properties page is only relevant to the PC, and only works when you have the 'SEN' value in the Tuning Menu set to Auto; it has no effect on GT Sport. GT Sport uses the SEN Auto setting intelligently. You can leave it on Auto and the game will set the appropriate steering lock per car. If you set SEN to 540, then the cars in the game that are actually 540 will work correctly, but everything else will be wrong. The only reason why you wouldn't use SEN Auto in GT Sport is if you wanted to use a slightly lower value than the real lock (to create an unrealistically fast steering), like using 480 for the 540 cars as described above.

@DomB_Fanatec
Thank you very much! Btw, I've used the new beta driver V330 with the new firmwares (also a new motor fw this time!) and it is solid. But I haven't had a single regret about purchasing the CSL Elite anyway. Keep up the good work!

You're welcome. That's good to know, and thanks for the kind words!

 

[Keith2324]

The software setting on the Fanatec Wheel Properties page is only relevant to the PC, and only works when you have the 'SEN' value in the Tuning Menu set to Auto; it has no effect on GT Sport. GT Sport uses the SEN Auto setting intelligently. You can leave it on Auto and the game will set the appropriate steering lock per car. If you set SEN to 540, then the cars in the game that are actually 540 will work correctly, but everything else will be wrong. The only reason why you wouldn't use SEN Auto in GT Sport is if you wanted to use a slightly lower value than the real lock (to create an unrealistically fast steering), like using 480 for the 540 cars as described above.


Thank you so much for that clarification. I wish I could tell you how long I have been racking my brain on this issue. I for one thank you for your support on this forum.

Keith.

 

[Jeka_djonik]

Help please, I can not make an update of the database, they require 16 files from me, where can I find it?

 

[Jeka_djonik]

Today I "killed" the whole day for this update and the base and driver. All in vain! Even the steering wheel cannot make a calligraphy when I turn it on, and if it does that from 25 times in the game, the steering wheel is pulled to the right and it cuts! I ask you to replace me in May with a new base! In technical support, I have already sent a letter and a video of how everything happens.

 

[Knukel]

Help please, I can not make an update of the database

I'm not really into this kind of stuff, but have you tried to re-installing the Fanatec driver program and then just click connect/download -> then flash? (I understood you started to fiddle with hex files??)

 

[Jeka_djonik]

I'm not really into this kind of stuff, but have you tried to re-installing the Fanatec driver program and then just click connect/download -> then flash? (I understood you started to fiddle with hex files??)

I installed the new driver 328, it also requires an update when you turn it on! That's right, you see in the photo requires a file, I do not know about it or anything! And I have not one problem. I returned to 311beta but I also can not update the database! Still in my games pulls the wheel in the right.

 

[Jeka_djonik]

contacted support. Solved the problem but alas, while they do not know anything about this problem. They asked to send them a file in order for the employees to identify the reason. If the reason is not known then the output one is to send the device back ..

 

[Knukel]

Delete.

 

[super_gt]

@Knukel there is a problem with the videos.

 

[Corsa]

I'm on PC with the Xbox CSL elite and looking @DomB_Fanatec posts regarding the tuning menu I think I've been wrong with my adjustments.
I race only rF2, Raceroom, and AC.

SEN 108
FF 100
SHO 0
ABS 0
DRI 0
FOR 40
SPR 30
DPR 0
BRF N/A
FEI 0

I like light, subtle ffb am I missing some sensations running this low?

 

[Jeka_djonik]

Corsa
For90-100 .And will be fine.
You lose a lot of information on the steering wheel. 40 is very low and low.
try to do the above drive laps 5 you will like it, you will feel more cars, demolition and everything that happens with the car

 

[super_gt]

Sorry for harsh english... But, i'm very dissapointed by the performance of this wheelbase. This one is my 3rd CSL Elite unit and this one doesn't feel at all like my two earlier wheelbases. I managed to sent it back for inspection (thanks for that), but unfortunately for me i got the exact same unit back... They said it's working like it's supposed (hardware wise), but they mentioned that there could be an issue with firmware/software from my end, but i don't buy that... I've tried literally every single Fanatec driver starting from 291 to latest 328.

Anyway: Here's an example of me driving the Sauber C9 at Laguna Seca with medium FFB strength at 50%, tuning menu setup stock except Drift is set to 0 for better response, FEI is 50; I know it's difficult for a viewer to understand what i'm trying to show in the video, but pay attention to how weak and nonreactive the wheel is over curbs, surface detail & especially when driving down the Corkscrew section. I was hotlapping it at the limit only with my two fingertips without greater effort. Well, i do admit that it does produce some decent "resistance" like my T150 used to, but i never had to fight it even then when hitting a wall or driving over a box curb.

--
Then the second one in the same car with similiar setup, but at Silverstone. Note the "Chunk/snap" when i enter the first corner and in the end of the video where i drive off the track. Then there's this odd empty shaking/rattling when driving over curbs (similiar to Laguna Seca's last corner exit on every lap) & the effortless steering.

--
Obvious question would be: "Why don't you just increase the FFB settings". Well... I'd like you to repeat this quick test: Set max FFB in Assetto Corsa and test if your base produce similiar noise? The knocking you are hearing is supposed to be road surface detail like cobblestone section, tyre flat spots etc... But for me it's just that annoying "hollow, empty, FFB-deadzone" which simply can't be felt in the steering. I feel just a fraction of what i used to feel in AC.

--
That's the case in every single game i've tried. Here's two GT Sport videos; note the "empty shaking" when driving over rumble strips. It happens literally every time and in any game, there's absolutely no positive rumble feedback from it. I bet you are not experiencing similiar.


--
"Try lowering FEI?" ...Yea i've done that and it does make the wheelbase quieter, but it's definitely not making it more responsive closer to my older wheelbases, nor fix the empty bucket like behavior causing the noise in the first place! ...It literally feels like there's a gear or belt loose or something, but obviously that's not the case.

Did this wheelbase come with underclocked/adjusted motor firmware i have no access in? Or is it just a second hand unit?
If it's related to firmware like their support team said, how can i fix it?

I would like you to do this test to see how strong the torque is:
Do not connect the wheel via USB to a PC or PS4
Do these settings:
SEN 108
FF 100
DRI -5(negative five)
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
FEI 100
Take a weight scale, tie a rope around the right side of the rim(see the video exactly where) and power on the wheel.
Then turn the steering wheel 360 degrees to the right and measured with the weight scale how many kilograms it shows, my shows between 3.5 and 4 kilograms.

 

[Jeka_djonik]

Knukel
I will tell you the following in Assetto Corsa the even on the clubsport 2.5 beats the steering wheel hard if you turn the fairies on for 50 I turn off on the PC or a maximum of 20

 

[Knukel]

Delete.

 

[Jeka_djonik]

by the way in the driver update it has become softer and more pleasant

 

[BrainsBush]

@DomB_Fanatec : Out of curiousity as I see that several game devs already have a Fanatec DD mounted to their rigs and they showcase it on social media. Do you know if reviews will become available before shipdate 30. April? Or is it still under embargo? Would be nice if we could read/watch early first impressions from others (although I like the SRG vids also). Makes waiting more bearable until the postman has a package for me Thanks, dank je wel!

Edit: sorry just realised that I posted this in the wrong Fanatec thread. Will post it in the appropriate one.

 

[super_gt]

in fact it feels like the 'beating' from car/track surface is brought back to the wheelbase, hence the empty clacking, knocking, snaps/pops etc...

I think I know where this problem comes from, but to prove this you need to open the wheel base to make another test which will void the warranty. Also if this test proves that I am right you will have to modify the single belt drive mechanism to fix the problem. So ask yourself how far you want to go.
But before we continue, you have to do the first test that will show me if the electric motor is working properly.