- 4,933
- Bulgaria
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Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4
- Thread starter PzR Slim
- 2,901 comments
- 413,072 views
- 26
- Czech Republic
Thank you for the reply.
As I said, it's not mainly about the sound (noise). What I'm annoyed by is the feel. Turning the wheel quickly left and right feels like there's a small play inside, as I explained multiple times above.
I'm fairly sure it was not there the first two days when it was brand new.
Actually I had the T300 also and this inferior and cheaper wheel feels better than CSL Elite simply because of this. T300 has zero feel of this play, T300 has no thumping sounds. Yes, steering the T300 is not that smooth and silent, but the FFB itself is way quieter and smoother. I don't get it, honestly.
The whole smoothness of turning is completely negated by this steering kick/play.
I have the FEI setting to 00 and still in some cases in some games the base knocks. My FF setting is usually around 60-80.
I have DRI set to -5 (default) and the play can be felt a lot. When I set DRI to OFF or even higher, it cannot be felt at all, or very tiny little. But then the wheel has too little weight and what's worse, heavy oscillations appear (wheel rapidly turning left and right by itself when I'm not holding it firmly).
So you're saying all of this is normal?
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
On all fanathetic products such a problem (the wheel if you let go of the pendulum begins with each second more strongly and strongly began to scree - I'm also hitting it! And fanatheti it can still fix it! Sad. I also had a former owner T300 I loved it! It's a good wheel for your money and quite normal quality. But fanatk gives a little level another but for more money. And all the problems that I see me very much sad. You want to give advice to not to worry so!
I do not understand why you put the drift -5 it makes the wheel sluggish and so slow horror.
- 415
- Germany
That's not what I'm saying, only that my first impression of your video is that it is normal. But videos can be deceptive, and this can only be verified by us testing your unit.
The CSL has significantly higher torque output than a T300. If you are used to a T300, some of these 'knocks' which you are describing as unwanted might just be torque spikes from the increased performance. FEI setting at zero causing knocks may also be caused by a build up of force as a result of smoothing the signal too far.
I don't recommend running the Drift Mode in positive values (for the WB+ and V2.5 bases) in general - this is only really useful for some unique scenarios or when used in combination with other settings. Incidentally, if your wheel is severely bouncing left and right in the positive settings, then it's possible that you've not updated your firmware to the most recent found in the v328 driver. We adjusted the behaviour of the positive values of the Drift Mode to reduce this effect.
I also don't recommend running the Drift Mode too far into the negative, as it creates a significant amount of damping. Values between -3 and 'off' are really the sweet spot, depending on the game.
Please refer to what I said to oVerDriver above.
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
DomB_Fanatec
Unfortunately, I do not understand you! For me, there is no information above that interests me: (I have such settings. FFB100. Sh100. DRI OFF. For 90-100. Spi 0. Dp 0. Fei 20-70. In any game, the steering wheel if you release it as a pendulum.
Unfortunately, I do not understand you! For me, there is no information above that interests me: (I have such settings. FFB100. Sh100. DRI OFF. For 90-100. Spi 0. Dp 0. Fei 20-70. In any game, the steering wheel if you release it as a pendulum.
- 26
- Czech Republic
You're obviously knowledgeable person and it's great talking to you, even though I'm unhappy with the wheel at the moment.
I have the beta driver now (as advised by tech support);
PC driver: 330
Wheel base firmware: 641
Wheel base motor firmware: 22
I'm gonna try some of the stuff posted yesterday and advised by you, I have no high hopes, but one can always hope.
Will post results in a moment.
- 415
- Germany
You are referring to oscillation. This is an inherent 'problem' with force feedback in general, and not unique to Fanatec products. In fact, the more high-end you go, the more prone to oscillation the systems can be. This is because low-end consumer wheel bases have low torque and heavy damping within the motor and pulley/gear mechanism, meaning that the bases are not responsive or powerful enough to even generate oscillation. With higher torque and less mechanical resistance, oscillation becomes more obvious. Consider the audio analogy: if you listen to a bad quality recording with bad laptop speakers, it's not immediately obvious that the recording is bad (because it might be the speakers that are the problem). If you listen to the same recording on high-end speakers, it's very clear that the recording is bad. This is what is happening with your CSL Elite base. It has the fidelity and strength to highlight problems with the games and potentially the system you are running. Console games often have bigger oscillation problems due to their lower performance and higher latency. A PC sim running at very high framerate tends to have less oscillation, but there are several other variables that contribute.
The DRI 'Off' setting you are using removes the electronic static damper entirely, giving you the most free-spinning wheel possible (within the limitations of the CSL belt system). This is prone to highlighting oscillation. Raising this value into the positive adds artificial acceleration, which will exaggerate the oscillation further, particularly if you release your grip (your arms are effectively a damper too).
If you are experiencing a lot of oscillation at DRI 'Off', then you should try -1, -2, or -3. Each value will reduce the oscillation more, as it adds increasing amounts of damper.
Understood - the beta v330 driver also has this revised drift mode, so that's fine.
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
DomB_Fanatec
Thank you so much for such a detailed response!
Thank you so much for such a detailed response!
- 26
- Czech Republic
So here are some results:
Firmware updated (reflashed). Wheel recalibrated itself and in game(s).
No effect.
However, the described issue - the play I felt, is definitely directly proportional to the wheel weight (damping, friction, whatever you wanna call it). The heavier the wheel, the more pronounced the play is.
On the other hand, it's kind of hard finding the sweetspot, where the wheel is not too much light (easy to turn) and where the effect of play is still not felt and the FFB effects are still nice and readable.
I had partial success setting it in few games, namely PCARS 2, DIRT 2, FH4, had less success in Wreckfest, the game has surprisingly good FFB, but the play could be felt a lot even at DRI set OFF, because the wheel was still kind of heavy and could be turned down only by reducing FFB effect, which reduced all of the FFB effects.
Anyway, under the default settings on the wheel itself, this play is very pronounced and can definitely be felt in every game that I've tried.
Btw, I found out that setting the SPR and DPR to any value has basically no effect in any game that I've tried. What should it do exactly?
I've talked to Fanatec support today and we had agreed to RMA the wheel.
However, I'm a bit reluctant right now as I'm afraid that another CSL Elite wheel that I might receive would have the same "issue". Not to talk about chance that I might pay both shipping prices if Fanatec says the wheel is OK and also, I won't have the wheel for many days, possibly weeks while it's under investigation.
If you have any more ideas or tips, I'd be glad to hear it.
Thanks.
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
oVerDriver
I checked the same thing as you showed in my video file, I have the same drift on -5 so it's not a problem play on!
I checked the same thing as you showed in my video file, I have the same drift on -5 so it's not a problem play on!
- 26
- Czech Republic
Sorry, I don't understand. What you're trying to say? That you do not have any play in there?
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
and what is not clear, I wrote
? You showed the video. I did the same thing now in the assetto corsa game put drift -5 and I have the same sound effect as yours. on off drift there is no such thing. in vain you will send the steering wheel! play on.- 26
- Czech Republic
No offense, but the english was not clear, I did not understand.
If you have the same effect, that's kind of good and bad news at the same time
If you have the same effect, that's kind of good and bad news at the same time
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
I'm sorry I'm writing through the translator. since i don't know english.No offense, but the english was not clear, I did not understand.
If you have the same effect, that's kind of good and bad news at the same time
I did not notice anything terrible in this. This really I think goes belt. I would have pulled it up but I can not steering the warranty.
- 4,933
- Bulgaria
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Jeka said: "I did the same thing now in the assetto corsa game put drift -5 and I have the same sound effect as yours. on off drift there is no such thing."No offense, but the english was not clear, I did not understand.
If you have the same effect, that's kind of good and bad news at the same time
What Jeka means is when he set Drift to "-5" he got the same sound effect or whatever effect as you (the issue you related)...but when he set Drift to "OFF" there was no such thing (No problem).
- 26
- Czech Republic
@davidt33
Yeah, I figured, thank you though.
Btw, I see you have the same wheel, could you test this out for us, too?
I'd really appreciate it. Basically all you need to do is set DRI to -5, overall make sure that the wheel is pretty dampened (heavy, high friction - meaning harder to turn) and steer it left and right repeatedly (like 30 degrees is enough). The faster you do it the more you should feel and hear it.
For exact movement check my video one or two pages back.
Yeah, I figured, thank you though.
Btw, I see you have the same wheel, could you test this out for us, too?
I'd really appreciate it. Basically all you need to do is set DRI to -5, overall make sure that the wheel is pretty dampened (heavy, high friction - meaning harder to turn) and steer it left and right repeatedly (like 30 degrees is enough). The faster you do it the more you should feel and hear it.
For exact movement check my video one or two pages back.
- 4,933
- Bulgaria
It's directly proportional to the power applied by the electric motor. People who like stronger FFB and higher FEI settings will feel this effect stronger, I am one of those people that's why I have modified my wheel.
This is me, making very sharp movements around the centre of the wheel and playing with high FFB settings and FEI set to 100. As you can hear there is no noise. (The single belt drive mechanism is modified)
This video is made with settings:
FF 100
DRI OFF (This is equal to DRI set -5 in the CSL Elite for PS4)
FOR 120
SPR 120
DPR 120
FEI 100
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- 26
- Czech Republic
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
I could do that when I fire up my PS4 again in a while but with whatever else various settings I have "In-Wheel", "In-game" and FFB mode including various FFB settings there I may not replicate your issue as a result.
Would you like me to post my current settings for you to input and test to see if it makes a difference?
EDIT: I'll go ahead and post my various settings anyhow so you can try out and see. Give me a couple minutes. I have them saved in a text file for easy reference. Will copy and paste them in subsequent post.
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
Super_gt
please explain to me why do you need a spring of 120% of the steering wheel constantly striving to the center correctly I understand?
please explain to me why do you need a spring of 120% of the steering wheel constantly striving to the center correctly I understand?
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Ok here you go. You'll notice in some of the settings I included what I had prior to my current. In those the figure to the end is of course the current. I mainly play on Pcars 2 so best if you trying them first with that game. I also play Dirt 4. GTsport hardly but whichever game it doesn't matter, I leave the In-Wheel settings as is.
......BTW, in GAME (Configuration) pay particular attention to "Deadzones" at "0" (Important) and also "Steering Sensitivity" at "50" as they do make a difference. Also FFB "Flavour" and its settings. Here you go:
....In some of the numbers I included what the Defaults are for ease of reference/comparision. If no other number is included it means I used the Default for that particular setting, otherwise if a number is added to the end that's the adjusted number I settled on. These are a result from exhaustive research, recommendations and fine-tuning.
Fanatec CSL Elite for PS4 Settings_Wheel, Game, FFB etc
My current settings:
WHEEL
SEN (Sensitivity) default: Auto
FF (Force Feedback): default 100
SHO (Shock): default 100
ABS: default: Off
DRI (Drift mode): Was “-02”: Now OFF
FOR (force): (default 100): 80
SPR (spring): (default 100): Was 030: Now 020
DPR (damper): default 100
FEI (force effect intensity): default 050
BRF (brake force): default 050
GAME
….CONFIGURATION
Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 50
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 50
Clutch Deadzone: 0
Clutch Sensitivity: 50
Speed Sensitivity: 0
Controller Damping: 100
Controller Vibration: 50 (Dimmed)…Probably only applies to DS controller not wheel)
Minimum Shift Time: 0
RPM/Gear Display: Yes
FFB
Flavour: RAW
Gain: Default 100
Volume: Default 50
Tone: (Default 50 ): Now 55
FX: (Default 50 ): Now 55
Menu: Default 0.40
......BTW, in GAME (Configuration) pay particular attention to "Deadzones" at "0" (Important) and also "Steering Sensitivity" at "50" as they do make a difference. Also FFB "Flavour" and its settings. Here you go:
....In some of the numbers I included what the Defaults are for ease of reference/comparision. If no other number is included it means I used the Default for that particular setting, otherwise if a number is added to the end that's the adjusted number I settled on. These are a result from exhaustive research, recommendations and fine-tuning.
Fanatec CSL Elite for PS4 Settings_Wheel, Game, FFB etc
My current settings:
WHEEL
SEN (Sensitivity) default: Auto
FF (Force Feedback): default 100
SHO (Shock): default 100
ABS: default: Off
DRI (Drift mode): Was “-02”: Now OFF
FOR (force): (default 100): 80
SPR (spring): (default 100): Was 030: Now 020
DPR (damper): default 100
FEI (force effect intensity): default 050
BRF (brake force): default 050
GAME
….CONFIGURATION
Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 50
Throttle Deadzone: 0
Throttle Sensitivity: 50
Brake Deadzone: 0
Brake Sensitivity: 50
Clutch Deadzone: 0
Clutch Sensitivity: 50
Speed Sensitivity: 0
Controller Damping: 100
Controller Vibration: 50 (Dimmed)…Probably only applies to DS controller not wheel)
Minimum Shift Time: 0
RPM/Gear Display: Yes
FFB
Flavour: RAW
Gain: Default 100
Volume: Default 50
Tone: (Default 50 ): Now 55
FX: (Default 50 ): Now 55
Menu: Default 0.40
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- 4,933
- Bulgaria
No, it's not easy and you risk damaging the wheel.
This is the second version of the modification which you see in the video.
This is my personal preference and I do not force anyone to follow it.
- 26
- Czech Republic
@davidt33
Okay so your settings are very similar to mine, but I tried yours. It's pretty OK, mainly to the fact that you have DRI set off or -02 (No/very little damping). Try setting it to -05 and do the test I wrote you. You should feel the same play as I do.
Btw, I don't have the "BRF" setting in my newest firmware, which is interesting.
Okay so your settings are very similar to mine, but I tried yours. It's pretty OK, mainly to the fact that you have DRI set off or -02 (No/very little damping). Try setting it to -05 and do the test I wrote you. You should feel the same play as I do.
Btw, I don't have the "BRF" setting in my newest firmware, which is interesting.
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Ok I'll try "DRI" at "-5" in a bit and get back to you.
Regarding "BRF" (Brake Force) do you have the standard CSL Elite Pedals or the added Load Cell Kit brake pedals...or another type of pedals?
This from the manual:
NOTE: BRF is only available when a supported pedal set is connected to wheel base's PEDAL port. Please read the description and/or manuals of your pedals to verify if the BRF feature is supported.
- 26
- Czech Republic
Ah, I don' have the load cell kit yet, so that explains it. I'll be eagerly waiting for your results. Thanks a lot for doing this.
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Mine is the standard CSL Elite PS4 pedals myself (2 pedals: Accelerator and brake). I don't have the "BFR" (Brake Force) LED/setting available in the wheel tuning settings either. Perhaps that comes on with a load cell kit brake is attached or other supported brake as they mentioned.
In any case I just did the test with "DRI" at "-5" and haven't experienced the issue you mentioned and shown. My wheel is as smooth as silk. Of course that with the rest of my settings unchanged as previously listed.
- 26
- Czech Republic
If you have wheel set to significant resistance - damping and rock it jerk it left and right and feel nothing, that boggles me. I was almost set at not sending it to RMA, now I'm hesitating again ._.
I have simplified the test. You don't even need to use any game or connect the wheel to PC.
All that needs to be done is power up the wheel, let it self calibrate, select DEFAULT wheel profile that has no changes made, make sure FF, FOR is set to 100 and DRI is -5. Rock the wheel left and right kind of violently (the steering must be done quickly as shown in my video, otherwise it won't happen). If you don't feel anything at this point and all you can hear and feel is completely smooth behaviour, then I don't know and my wheel has to be faulty somewhat.
It's driving me crazy.
I have simplified the test. You don't even need to use any game or connect the wheel to PC.
All that needs to be done is power up the wheel, let it self calibrate, select DEFAULT wheel profile that has no changes made, make sure FF, FOR is set to 100 and DRI is -5. Rock the wheel left and right kind of violently (the steering must be done quickly as shown in my video, otherwise it won't happen). If you don't feel anything at this point and all you can hear and feel is completely smooth behaviour, then I don't know and my wheel has to be faulty somewhat.
It's driving me crazy.
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- 544
- Western Sahara
(NVM, just saw you have clearly explained this already)
So there's no similiar feel if you 'rock it' at 45-90 degrees either side, without ever crossing the center position...
Can you provide a video where you let the game do the 'rocking' instead of you doing it? I mean Assetto Corsa should give plenty of forces on straights (Higlands long's back straight in a open-wheeler should be good test with FEI set to +30). I think you mentioned it has no effect in games, but i'd expect it to get super noisy on straights with lots of empty knocking you can hardly feel in the steering... The reason why i stopped playing AC.
Positive thing is that the GTS' FFB feels better than ever; the infamous understeer rattle is no longer trying to rip my arms off; it's still there but it's much more bearable now. I do hope all this is related to firmware, which could be optimized for GTS.
Edit: So tempting to try this mod... ↓
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- 4,933
- Bulgaria
There is a simple test, which I have done and you can do it to see if you will like it (first ask Fanatec if this will void the warranty)
These are the belt tensioners:
You can take them off, there is a Tesa black tape which is 18mm wide, the white tensioners have the same width. Wrap around the white tensioners(both) thick layer tape until the diameter reached exactly 20 millimetres(use a caliper for the measurement). Watch out on the surface of which you will stick the tape to have no lubricant!
Then put Loctite Super Bond glue on the inner edge of the tape:
This is strong enough to withstand a one-hour test (I have done this).
This is just for test, it is not strong enough for a permanent solution!
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