- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
there is a big difference between the engines base 22 version and 18. on the 18 version Fei 100% is very good and on 22 it will be 70% as on the 18 motor 100%
Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4
- Thread starter PzR Slim
- 2,901 comments
- 413,107 views
- 415
- Germany
While that may be the case (we are still investigating the reported differences between the different motor firmwares), it doesn't affect the FEI directly - the filter is still working in exactly the same way in all the recent driver packages. It would be very confusing to start splitting up our recommended settings based on differences in motor firmware characteristics.
- 58
- Netherlands
And also with driver 328 (with included firmware package) and higher up, the L2 and R2 toggles on my McLaren wheel don't work anymore. I know the reason behind this, but still: no L2 R2 buttons/toggles anymore on that wheel until gamedevelopers use the new Fanatec SDK (which no one has done yet for PS4).
Finally, with driver 311 (and of course the appropriate firmware package included) my wheel just feels a bit more tight, more direct. I mean my initial steering input for cornering feels quicker and better and I have more control over the car in general.
So I'll just stick with the good old 'official' 311 package for now.
Edit: I stand corrected. GT Sport has included the new Fanatec SDK for the McLaren wheel with game update 1.46 (spec II).
Edit edit: scrap the whole 311 thing I said. The firmware that comes with the latest beta 347 package is just as thight as the one that comes with the 311 package. Only now to decide if I'll go with motor firmware version 22, 20 or 18....
Finally, with driver 311 (and of course the appropriate firmware package included) my wheel just feels a bit more tight, more direct. I mean my initial steering input for cornering feels quicker and better and I have more control over the car in general.
So I'll just stick with the good old 'official' 311 package for now.
Edit: I stand corrected. GT Sport has included the new Fanatec SDK for the McLaren wheel with game update 1.46 (spec II).
Edit edit: scrap the whole 311 thing I said. The firmware that comes with the latest beta 347 package is just as thight as the one that comes with the 311 package. Only now to decide if I'll go with motor firmware version 22, 20 or 18....
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- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Can someone clarify something for me please? I bought a CSL Elite for PS4 last year November 2018. Since I have a Mac and not a Windows based PC I had to take the wheel to a family member who has a PC to install/update the driver/firmware as was recommended in the manual. He was not familiar himself as he had never done that before but after some trial and error it seemed he was finally able to install it. At the time I think the latest was the v311 driver package. Anyway the wheel worked fine from last November 2018 up to around this year June 2019. From June 2019 I began to experience intermittent disconnections. I eventually changed the wheel's USB cable which helped. I could go longer with no disconnection/s.....sometimes no disconnection in a session but other times still an intermittent disconnection albeit less frequently.
I'm thinking of reinstalling the driver/firmware to see if it helps resolve the intermittent disconnection issue. I see the latest driver version on the website is v328. I'm curious to know is how can I tell what driver or firmware is currently installed. According to the manual it says "The currently installed firmware version is shown on the LED display of the Fanatec steering wheel for a moment....." (after initial wheel powering on and wheel rotation). What I see is this: The number 476 (appears briefly) followed by 0.18.
What do those numbers indicate? Does the first number indicate the driver or firmware version or what, and what does the second number indicate? Was the driver and firmware (from driver version 311) correctly installed/updated initially back in November 2018 from what you see or what? And should I install or update with the latest driver package v328 to see if it would resolve my intermittent disconnection issue?
I'm thinking of reinstalling the driver/firmware to see if it helps resolve the intermittent disconnection issue. I see the latest driver version on the website is v328. I'm curious to know is how can I tell what driver or firmware is currently installed. According to the manual it says "The currently installed firmware version is shown on the LED display of the Fanatec steering wheel for a moment....." (after initial wheel powering on and wheel rotation). What I see is this: The number 476 (appears briefly) followed by 0.18.
What do those numbers indicate? Does the first number indicate the driver or firmware version or what, and what does the second number indicate? Was the driver and firmware (from driver version 311) correctly installed/updated initially back in November 2018 from what you see or what? And should I install or update with the latest driver package v328 to see if it would resolve my intermittent disconnection issue?
- 58
- Netherlands
476 is the firmware that comes with driver 311 package. 18 is the motor firmware (also included with driver 311). Package 328 comes with a different firmware but still with motor firmware 18.
It's always good to try to reflash the firmware to see if the problem still exists afterwards. If so, you should contact Fanatec support.
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
I tested the whole day. I'm telling the truth this is really so. At the 18 firmware of the motor, Fei 100% perfectly shows itself. At a 22 motor, 100% very furious rudder is not possible!
- 597
- Barbados
So then this would lead me to my next question. Which driver should I be using if I only have the CSL Elite Racing Wheel - officially licensed for PS4™ USA with LC pedals and no additional rims to get the best results?
Keith.
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
Thanks for clarifying Bart. I'm assuming then that the driver package v311 (including firmware) was successfully installed then right?
What has me baffled is how for a good consistent amount of months from November 2018 to May 2019 (a good 6-7 months) the wheel would work perfectly without wheel disconnections and all of a sudden from June 2019 I began to experience the intermittent wheel disconnections. very strange that and frustrating when it happens.
- 58
- Netherlands
You're welcome. Honestly, to me it sounds like a hardware issue. But if you raise a ticket with Fanatec, they will always ask you to reflash the latest firmware to see if the problem will go away. Good luck with your wheel!
Mine actually had to go back to Germany 2 times since I bought it last year (different issues btw). But it doesn't really bother me. Because when it works, the Fanatec CSL is in another league (former T300 owner).
- 415
- Germany
Hi Keith, the highest driver number from the Downloads section of the product page is the recommended starting point. You are welcome to try the newer beta drivers on our forum (v340 is one that our support team often suggests as an alternative if they are troubleshooting an issue with a customer), but don't expect a significant performance difference - these recent betas have been mostly about adding ease-of-use UI improvements, bugfixes, and adding new/upcoming product compatibility.
- 81
- Umag, Croatia
I have got the CSL Elite with LC pedal all mounted on Gt Omega ART cockpit. My Clubsport handbrake v1.5 just came in this morning, i bought it just for WRC 8. The problem is, the plate that came with the cockpit is for the shifter, which i dont have, and not for the handbrake. Do any of you know any existence of a handbrake mount for the ART cockpit? The only one i found is for the PRO cockpit, which i think won't fit.
- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
Quick update: I was sent driver 346 and updated the wheel/base. I noticed fewer instances of rattling at boot up BUT given this was intermittent before I doubt this signifies anything.
I did a few hours testing, multiple cars/tracks and even a 40min race. I tried various settings but the driver didn't solve the issue. Multiple issues. Mid corner steering feels like I'm pulling against a elastic workout thing where the more I turn the more I have a spring loaded tension ready to fly back the opposite direction. This renders mid corner corrections a crap shoot as there is no detail at all. The other big issue is corner entry to mid corner where the steering feels like power steering with air in the line along with a broken suspension point. Basically the wheel will have a random light feeling combined with knocking similar to broken suspension. This is with at both FEI 0 and 10 (out of 100).
Had FF in game at 5-6, with Sensitivity ranging from 1-10. Sens at 1 is easier but lifeless and still some oscillation. Drift set to OFF, but I tested at -5 up to -1 and still a little oscillation at -5 ...... but honestly how does anyone drive with that setting? You completely lose steering accuracy for corrections, it's hilariously bad at -5 in terms of how slow the response time is to inputs. -1 is okkkkkkk but still blah vs OFF which is a 1:1 response. Anyone running -1 to -2 I think you are really limiting yourself. I guess for some who are not as good at correcting, it can help to make up for their over corrections, but stick to OFF and learn how to make proper corrections.
Awaiting the RMA request so I can send the wheel in. Sucks being down for a few weeks but gives me time to get some things around the house done lol.
I did a few hours testing, multiple cars/tracks and even a 40min race. I tried various settings but the driver didn't solve the issue. Multiple issues. Mid corner steering feels like I'm pulling against a elastic workout thing where the more I turn the more I have a spring loaded tension ready to fly back the opposite direction. This renders mid corner corrections a crap shoot as there is no detail at all. The other big issue is corner entry to mid corner where the steering feels like power steering with air in the line along with a broken suspension point. Basically the wheel will have a random light feeling combined with knocking similar to broken suspension. This is with at both FEI 0 and 10 (out of 100).
Had FF in game at 5-6, with Sensitivity ranging from 1-10. Sens at 1 is easier but lifeless and still some oscillation. Drift set to OFF, but I tested at -5 up to -1 and still a little oscillation at -5 ...... but honestly how does anyone drive with that setting? You completely lose steering accuracy for corrections, it's hilariously bad at -5 in terms of how slow the response time is to inputs. -1 is okkkkkkk but still blah vs OFF which is a 1:1 response. Anyone running -1 to -2 I think you are really limiting yourself. I guess for some who are not as good at correcting, it can help to make up for their over corrections, but stick to OFF and learn how to make proper corrections.
Awaiting the RMA request so I can send the wheel in. Sucks being down for a few weeks but gives me time to get some things around the house done lol.
- 4,933
- Bulgaria
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
- 4,933
- Bulgaria
Unfortunately no:
''At the time the CSW V2 (and original CSL Elite Wheel Base) was developed it was not possible to create a dynamic/variable motor damper into the motor driver. To develop this features we had to design a completely new motor electronics which is driven by a logical processor and has its own firmware which is programmable/updateable.''
https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/suppo...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
I'm talking about the first CSL Elite with the mosaic front plate.
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- 156
- Finland
So my Fanatec arrived and everything is cool exept gas pedal of csl elite pedal set with loadsell breaking pedal. Loadsell pedal works as it should be, also with adjusting braking power in tuning menu but that gas pedal just gives just a little response like pushing pedal about 10% even it's on floor. If fast pushed to floor and back it flashes sometimes 100% of gas but returns to almost zero back. I have manually calibrated gas pedal thrue tuningmenu of my wheel but it doesn't help either. I'm poor with PC's so help needed badly.
My set: CSL wheelbase + for PS4, CSL elite pedals with LC (no clutch pedal in use), steering wheel P1 elite, clubsport handbrake.
All connected to wheelbase separately as guided. Games where problem seems: GT Sport, Dirt Rally 2.0
Thank You very much of help!
My set: CSL wheelbase + for PS4, CSL elite pedals with LC (no clutch pedal in use), steering wheel P1 elite, clubsport handbrake.
All connected to wheelbase separately as guided. Games where problem seems: GT Sport, Dirt Rally 2.0
Thank You very much of help!
- 597
- Barbados
I can't seem to find my the picture of my rig, but try adding/attaching a bungee cord to your gas pedal. It also depends on what kind of rig you have. It adds a good deal of resistance to the pedal and makes it easier to get better throttle response. If I find the picture I'll be sure to post it.
Keith.
- 156
- Finland
Thanks Keith but this isn't problem of 'feeling' of throttle pedal, this is software issue. So even pushing gas pedal to maximum it does almost nothing in game. Something is wrong but I haven't find solution and reason for this problem. Pedalset is brand new as I mentioned and LC brakepedal works fine.
My rig is R-Seat S1.
So any suggestions welcome thank you.
My rig is R-Seat S1.
So any suggestions welcome thank you.
- 156
- Finland
Cables were fine and when checking it I disconnected all cables on pedalset and when started on PC Fanatec's controlpanel I saw that everything is working as should be, even throttlepedal. Mysterious...
But not to get things go easy I saw that when pushing gaspedal down maximum input in Fanatec's window reached way too early so there is a lot of pedal moving space after maximum throttle input is achieved. Tryed to set on that controlpanel minimum and maximum throttle pedal movement but it doesn't got any response as it stayed as it was. Same calibration on brakepedal and on handbrake worked as should be but on gaspedal that movement for throttle from minimum to maximum stays too narrow so all pedal movement isn't on use. And in game like GTSport where throttle is not linear this makes gas input even more hard to get right.
- 156
- Finland
There is something wrong with gas pedal for sure as it doesn't give good response on Fanatec control panel.
Could I try csl pedal set's brake pedal connected to LC's gas port as it's not in use anymore because of LC brake pedal?
On pedalset's brakepedal is sure tighter spring than in gaspedal but I just want to see does it work better than that original gaspedal on control panel.
Is there same kind of potentiometer in both gas & brake pedal in normal csl pedalset? Could it be removed from brakepedal to gaspedal which have some problem? Thank you.
Could I try csl pedal set's brake pedal connected to LC's gas port as it's not in use anymore because of LC brake pedal?
On pedalset's brakepedal is sure tighter spring than in gaspedal but I just want to see does it work better than that original gaspedal on control panel.
Is there same kind of potentiometer in both gas & brake pedal in normal csl pedalset? Could it be removed from brakepedal to gaspedal which have some problem? Thank you.
- 415
- Germany
Yes you can use the standard (potentiometer) brake pedal to test the gas port, it works the same way as the gas pedal.
- 156
- Finland
So I tested it and it works as it should be. Response curve is right and smooth on control panel test with elite brake pedal connected to LC pedal box's gas port.
Then switched back to orginal gaspedal connected to gas port and old problem came back so it surely is broken that gaspedal.
I got this new pedalset last week so I take contact with Fanatec.
Thank you of help.
- 4,933
- Bulgaria
- 192
- Lamia city
Lol just posted on your thread with the pulley mod. Are you thinking what i am thinking? LOL
I have to wait for a month or so for my warranty period to expire in order to try this.
- 358
- CA
- Z-Crazy
Anyone have this happen.
Almost each day, I start driving a car that I use set up 1 in the tuning menu of the CSL Elite PS4 base in iRacing and migrate to a car that uses set up 2. Each day, when I first use set up 2, the brake force setting has changed to what set up 1 had. Annoying yes, but no big deal. I'm probably going to reload the drivers, but I'm just curious if this is more than a one off. Also note, all of the set ups are default with the exception of the brake force settings so its not so random to see it mirror another set up option.
Almost each day, I start driving a car that I use set up 1 in the tuning menu of the CSL Elite PS4 base in iRacing and migrate to a car that uses set up 2. Each day, when I first use set up 2, the brake force setting has changed to what set up 1 had. Annoying yes, but no big deal. I'm probably going to reload the drivers, but I'm just curious if this is more than a one off. Also note, all of the set ups are default with the exception of the brake force settings so its not so random to see it mirror another set up option.
- 1,410
- Albuquerque, NM
- Frizbe
- Darth Frizbe
Not sure this is even the correct spot but I can’t find anywhere else. How the 🤬 tight is this holder screw supposed to be in the Fanatec CSP V3s? I got my brake performance kit yesterday and I can’t get this screw to back out. I’ve tried turning both ways just to be sure but since I can’t find anything about it being a reverse thread I’m pretty confident I’m turning it the correct way. I even went and got a new hex tool to make sure it wasn’t just me not being able to put enough pressure on the little BA one I had laying around. My new hex tool is now twisted.... and no sign this screw is even starting to come a little bit loose.
