Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

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@roytheboy is this something you know or can estimate a ballpark of?
…and also

Is “sensitivity” a multiplier of FFB signal?

I’m still having a hard time figuring out how “sensitivity” works for high powered DD bases
My real-world experience, whilst not exactly all-encompassing or anything to write home about, suggests that the torque you feel at the steering wheel is specifically about g-force and tyre-grip, and not so much about vehicle size and power. It is also hugely dependant upon the type of tyres in use, the type of track surface, exactly what was running on the track immediately preceding your race or session, the temperate of the tyres, the ambient temperature, the track temperature, and also just as important to all of that: whether or not you have found the optimum pressure for your particular tyres in their particular state, in the particular temperature range, for your particular driving style i.e. ‘smooth entry' or ‘chuck it in’.

That last sentence explains why pre-race practice (with as many variables as close as possible to race conditions) is so vitally important to giving you the best machine to race with. You don’t just need a perfect engine and driver, you need the optimal tyre pressures to get maximum grip from your tyres, but also in a way that the tyres will last for the duration of your race or stint (if you will be changing tyres). Can you see where this is going yet, in the context of sim racing?

Spoiler: in answer to the question "How much torque does a Gt3/4 car produce in the steering wheel?”, not only is the level of torque going to vary considerably by car, track, tyre, temperature etc. etc. etc, but that level of torque is going to feel different to different people.

Let’s look at this in a different way. We’ve all been karting, yes? Let’s take a known track with a known surface on a hot summer's day. In the morning, some heavy corporate hire-karts go out on track wearing corporate boots (designed to last for dozens or even hundreds of sessions), driven by a bunch of mates who don’t often go karting. After fifteen minutes of whizzing round the track, the tyres are warm, the chaps are having a ball, but their arms are starting to feel very tired with what they perceive to be hellishly grippy tyres. How much torque are they feeling at the wheel? …not a lot by karting standards but it doesn’t matter; their arms are aching; they won’t be able to ‘feel’ much soon because their arms will start to weaken …if their necks don’t give out first!

Over the lunchtime, the afternoon Owner/Driver sprint racers rock up with their race karts, keen to test their karts before a race that coming weekend. They’re running TKM Extreme karts with sticky sprint tyres and it’s a hot day. Out they go, laying down lap after lap, diving into the pits, adjusting their pressures, then flying back out again. They are trying hard to find the optimum pressures for their particular driving style, in this particular kart, on this particular track, with this particular tyre, in this particular ambient temperature. And when they think they have it, they’ll note everything down so that if the weather changes at the weekend, they’ll have the best chance of making allowances accordingly. This is the fun (or not) of real-world racing as compared to sim-racing.

After an hour of testing, most of the sprint racers are tired and their arms are aching. They are not used to driving at race-pace for more than ten minutes at a time, so their driving precision is suffering because their arms are aching. Does it matter to them how much torque they are getting at the wheel? …not in the slightest - they are hot, tired, and they pray to God that they have found the optimum tyre pressures, and that the loss of grip wasn’t down to caster angle or seat (chassis) rigidity or something else that interfered with their testing without them realising!

After lunch the Owner/Driver enduro racers turn up for their two-hour race. They are driving Rotax Max karts with an engine punch that throws you back in the seat so hard that you have to brace yourself even though you’re in a bucket seat. Their karts are wearing enduro boots but these are almost as sticky as sprint tyres. These guys are used to racing at a sprint-like pace for hours at a time, so they go to the gym or workout most days. They race or practice two or three times a week, and their necks and arms are honed to athletic levels of fitness.

They ready their karts and go out for qualifying, taking just two laps to reach race-pace. They have perfectly balanced karts, soft tyres, warm temperatures and, crucially, the track is already rubbered-in because the sprint guys where out just before them. And after two hours of sprint-like racing in the hot weather, they finish their race looking just as fresh as when they started. But what was the level of torque that they felt at the wheel? Does it matter? Was it relative to their ability to drive well in the particular circumstances of that race on that day? No, because everything was relative to what they expected. And this all goes for any type of racing vehicle, road cars, race cars, karts, whatever.

So now the corporate hire-karters get back out for another ten-minute session, and are blown away by how different their karts feel. It’s like night and day! Why? …simply because the track has had sprint and enduro race karts laying down rubber all afternoon. And how much difference does this make to the torque they feel at the wheel? …somewhere between ‘lots’ and ‘lots more’, even though every other factor is the same as it was that morning.

To give some context to this scenario, by the way, when it comes to grip, g-forces and torque-at-the-steering wheel, there is very little in the way of vehicle types (GT3/4 or whatever), that will be greater that that felt in a proper race-kart on sticky tires on a rubbered-in track. This was told to me by quite a few mates who have raced all the way up to ’slicks and wings’ cars including F1. And this is one reason why you’ll often find F1 drivers racing karts (not corporate karts) in their spare time, because whilst not in any way like the speed of F1 racing, the thrills and g-forces are still there to a degree …so I’m told.

So then a corporate karter manages to persuade an enduro O/D karter to let him have a go in his Rotax Max - they must be really good mates! The corporate karter does a few laps at a crawl by comparison, but by lap five his arms feel like they are dropping off. His neck starts to give out and two laps later he can no longer turn the wheel. How much torque does he feel at the wheel? The answer is: ‘too much’ …for him.

So this long tome of a post is all about explaining how the level of torque felt at the wheel of any vehicle will depend upon so many variables that an exact measure/metric would be meaningless. But more importantly, the amount of torque felt at the wheel is only useful if you can feel the difference in grip as you drive round the circuit, which you won’t if your arms get too tired because the torque is too much to cope with. So, like Einstein’s famous theory: it’s all relative.

If you can feel the difference between a gripping tyre on entry to a bend, and a tyre that is just starting to break away mid-corner, then you have the perfect amount of torque which which to race effectively. To a corporate karter that torque amount might be ‘x’, and to an O/D enduro racer that torque might be ‘10x’, but as long as they are each getting useful feedback about what their tyres are doing during cornering, then both ‘x’ and ‘10x’ are enough.

With regards to the settings of ‘max torque’ and ‘sensitivity’ for the GT DD wheel (which I have in 8 Nm guise), I am a great believer in trusting the people that make these things. When I first got my wheel, I visited https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25219/gran-turismo-7-ps4-ps5-fanatec-recommended-settings which states:

Gran Turismo DD Pro

Tuning Menu Settings:
• SEN Auto
• FF 100
• FFS Peak
• NDP 38
• NFR Off
• NIN Off
• INT 2
• FEI 100
• FOR 100
• SPR 100
• DPR 100

In-Game Settings:
• Assist Settings:
• Countersteering Assistance: Off
• Controller Settings:
• Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
• Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

This was my starting point, regardless of the endless list of people who think they know more than the Fanatec engineers, or like to think that every update changes the landscape beyond all recognition. I’m not nearly as clever as many of those who post their settings, so I stick with what I consider to be an authoritative source, and see how I get on.

So I have always used a ‘max torque’ of 5 and a ‘sensitivity’ of 1, and for me, that gives a feel that I can totally relate to from my real-world racing days. I can count on one hand the number of times I have momentarily lost feedback (can’t remember what the term is …clipping, I think), and that has always been on the first infield hairpin at Daytona, when driving a Gr.1 vehicle. But that only lasts for a few seconds or so.

I genuinely don’t understand these settings like BWX and PirovacBoy do (hats off to them both), but I know what I feel and I know what I need to feel to race at my best, and where I have everything is where I like to be.

I’m no expert; I haven’t real-world raced for about ten years, but these are my thoughts on the question asked. Feel free to disagree - I’ve got a thick skin!

...well, you did ask!
 
My real-world experience, whilst not exactly all-encompassing or anything to write home about, suggests that the torque you feel at the steering wheel is specifically about g-force and tyre-grip, and not so much about vehicle size and power. It is also hugely dependant upon the type of tyres in use, the type of track surface, exactly what was running on the track immediately preceding your race or session, the temperate of the tyres, the ambient temperature, the track temperature, and also just as important to all of that: whether or not you have found the optimum pressure for your particular tyres in their particular state, in the particular temperature range, for your particular driving style i.e. ‘smooth entry' or ‘chuck it in’.

That last sentence explains why pre-race practice (with as many variables as close as possible to race conditions) is so vitally important to giving you the best machine to race with. You don’t just need a perfect engine and driver, you need the optimal tyre pressures to get maximum grip from your tyres, but also in a way that the tyres will last for the duration of your race or stint (if you will be changing tyres). Can you see where this is going yet, in the context of sim racing?

Spoiler: in answer to the question "How much torque does a Gt3/4 car produce in the steering wheel?”, not only is the level of torque going to vary considerably by car, track, tyre, temperature etc. etc. etc, but that level of torque is going to feel different to different people.

Let’s look at this in a different way. We’ve all been karting, yes? Let’s take a known track with a known surface on a hot summer's day. In the morning, some heavy corporate hire-karts go out on track wearing corporate boots (designed to last for dozens or even hundreds of sessions), driven by a bunch of mates who don’t often go karting. After fifteen minutes of whizzing round the track, the tyres are warm, the chaps are having a ball, but their arms are starting to feel very tired with what they perceive to be hellishly grippy tyres. How much torque are they feeling at the wheel? …not a lot by karting standards but it doesn’t matter; their arms are aching; they won’t be able to ‘feel’ much soon because their arms will start to weaken …if their necks don’t give out first!

Over the lunchtime, the afternoon Owner/Driver sprint racers rock up with their race karts, keen to test their karts before a race that coming weekend. They’re running TKM Extreme karts with sticky sprint tyres and it’s a hot day. Out they go, laying down lap after lap, diving into the pits, adjusting their pressures, then flying back out again. They are trying hard to find the optimum pressures for their particular driving style, in this particular kart, on this particular track, with this particular tyre, in this particular ambient temperature. And when they think they have it, they’ll note everything down so that if the weather changes at the weekend, they’ll have the best chance of making allowances accordingly. This is the fun (or not) of real-world racing as compared to sim-racing.

After an hour of testing, most of the sprint racers are tired and their arms are aching. They are not used to driving at race-pace for more than ten minutes at a time, so their driving precision is suffering because their arms are aching. Does it matter to them how much torque they are getting at the wheel? …not in the slightest - they are hot, tired, and they pray to God that they have found the optimum tyre pressures, and that the loss of grip wasn’t down to caster angle or seat (chassis) rigidity or something else that interfered with their testing without them realising!

After lunch the Owner/Driver enduro racers turn up for their two-hour race. They are driving Rotax Max karts with an engine punch that throws you back in the seat so hard that you have to brace yourself even though you’re in a bucket seat. Their karts are wearing enduro boots but these are almost as sticky as sprint tyres. These guys are used to racing at a sprint-like pace for hours at a time, so they go to the gym or workout most days. They race or practice two or three times a week, and their necks and arms are honed to athletic levels of fitness.

They ready their karts and go out for qualifying, taking just two laps to reach race-pace. They have perfectly balanced karts, soft tyres, warm temperatures and, crucially, the track is already rubbered-in because the sprint guys where out just before them. And after two hours of sprint-like racing in the hot weather, they finish their race looking just as fresh as when they started. But what was the level of torque that they felt at the wheel? Does it matter? Was it relative to their ability to drive well in the particular circumstances of that race on that day? No, because everything was relative to what they expected. And this all goes for any type of racing vehicle, road cars, race cars, karts, whatever.

So now the corporate hire-karters get back out for another ten-minute session, and are blown away by how different their karts feel. It’s like night and day! Why? …simply because the track has had sprint and enduro race karts laying down rubber all afternoon. And how much difference does this make to the torque they feel at the wheel? …somewhere between ‘lots’ and ‘lots more’, even though every other factor is the same as it was that morning.

To give some context to this scenario, by the way, when it comes to grip, g-forces and torque-at-the-steering wheel, there is very little in the way of vehicle types (GT3/4 or whatever), that will be greater that that felt in a proper race-kart on sticky tires on a rubbered-in track. This was told to me by quite a few mates who have raced all the way up to ’slicks and wings’ cars including F1. And this is one reason why you’ll often find F1 drivers racing karts (not corporate karts) in their spare time, because whilst not in any way like the speed of F1 racing, the thrills and g-forces are still there to a degree …so I’m told.

So then a corporate karter manages to persuade an enduro O/D karter to let him have a go in his Rotax Max - they must be really good mates! The corporate karter does a few laps at a crawl by comparison, but by lap five his arms feel like they are dropping off. His neck starts to give out and two laps later he can no longer turn the wheel. How much torque does he feel at the wheel? The answer is: ‘too much’ …for him.

So this long tome of a post is all about explaining how the level of torque felt at the wheel of any vehicle will depend upon so many variables that an exact measure/metric would be meaningless. But more importantly, the amount of torque felt at the wheel is only useful if you can feel the difference in grip as you drive round the circuit, which you won’t if your arms get too tired because the torque is too much to cope with. So, like Einstein’s famous theory: it’s all relative.

If you can feel the difference between a gripping tyre on entry to a bend, and a tyre that is just starting to break away mid-corner, then you have the perfect amount of torque which which to race effectively. To a corporate karter that torque amount might be ‘x’, and to an O/D enduro racer that torque might be ‘10x’, but as long as they are each getting useful feedback about what their tyres are doing during cornering, then both ‘x’ and ‘10x’ are enough.

With regards to the settings of ‘max torque’ and ‘sensitivity’ for the GT DD wheel (which I have in 8 Nm guise), I am a great believer in trusting the people that make these things. When I first got my wheel, I visited https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25219/gran-turismo-7-ps4-ps5-fanatec-recommended-settings which states:



This was my starting point, regardless of the endless list of people who think they know more than the Fanatec engineers, or like to think that every update changes the landscape beyond all recognition. I’m not nearly as clever as many of those who post their settings, so I stick with what I consider to be an authoritative source, and see how I get on.

So I have always used a ‘max torque’ of 5 and a ‘sensitivity’ of 1, and for me, that gives a feel that I can totally relate to from my real-world racing days. I can count on one hand the number of times I have momentarily lost feedback (can’t remember what the term is …clipping, I think), and that has always been on the first infield hairpin at Daytona, when driving a Gr.1 vehicle. But that only lasts for a few seconds or so.

I genuinely don’t understand these settings like BWX and PirovacBoy do (hats off to them both), but I know what I feel and I know what I need to feel to race at my best, and where I have everything is where I like to be.

I’m no expert; I haven’t real-world raced for about ten years, but these are my thoughts on the question asked. Feel free to disagree - I’ve got a thick skin!

...well, you did ask!
That's a hell of an explanation and a very good one too.
I like that. Everything makes sense.
But unfortunately that still leaves some numbers unanswered on the table.
Of course like you said and explained very detailed and plausible it's all relative to what each one personally perceives as much or too much Torque.
But there must be some sort of objective measurements.
In the meanwhile I searched the www. quite A lot and came across some very interesting numbers...which I expected tbh.
To not go to much into detail because my English is not very good, I can confidently say that anything between 7-9nm of torque are a very close to real world numbers in terms of torque and forces generated in gt3/4 cars.
With peaks even surpassing these numbers but not by much, 12-15Nm at most and only for very short periods.
And like you excellently explained these numbers vastly differ on all possible various influences like tires, car weight, temperatures, surface etc etc.
So in conclusion what does that mean for us gamers/Sim drivers/Sim racers...
Depending on what you are looking for you should set your FFB accordingly.

Me personally will ALWAYS opt for simulating real world or as close as possible real world forces... Hence I'll run my GT7 FFB between 7-9nm.
And that is exactly what I was doing all the time and what gave me the most satisfaction.
For road cars with less gripper tires I'll reduce the FFB to around 4-5Nm at most.
High downforce cars are actually too quick for me and the forces generated are beyond my physical possibilities, although not being a whimp but like you said @roytheboy ...too much is too much 😅

Oh and more thing which goes out to @Chevy Heavy
I highly advise you to use a higher Sensitivity setting if you decide to use a Torque level of 3 in GT7.
I would say 3/8 or even better 3/9.
That way you will feel even more detail and most importantly it will blend in a way more comprehensive way with your torque.
Giving you a way more balanced torque to sensitivity distribution.
You will feel less fatigued whilst still getting an enormous amount of Tire Load and slip angle feedback.
Of course I don't know what rim size you use but assuming you are not using the toy sized 27cm formula wheel but instead at least a 30cm or upwards rim you should definitely accommodate yourself to drive with the in game sliders set to my aforementioned settings 🙂
 
That's a hell of an explanation and a very good one too.
I like that. Everything makes sense.
But unfortunately that still leaves some numbers unanswered on the table.
Of course like you said and explained very detailed and plausible it's all relative to what each one personally perceives as much or too much Torque.
But there must be some sort of objective measurements.
In the meanwhile I searched the www. quite A lot and came across some very interesting numbers...which I expected tbh.
To not go to much into detail because my English is not very good, I can confidently say that anything between 7-9nm of torque are a very close to real world numbers in terms of torque and forces generated in gt3/4 cars.
With peaks even surpassing these numbers but not by much, 12-15Nm at most and only for very short periods.
And like you excellently explained these numbers vastly differ on all possible various influences like tires, car weight, temperatures, surface etc etc.
So in conclusion what does that mean for us gamers/Sim drivers/Sim racers...
Depending on what you are looking for you should set your FFB accordingly.

Me personally will ALWAYS opt for simulating real world or as close as possible real world forces... Hence I'll run my GT7 FFB between 7-9nm.
And that is exactly what I was doing all the time and what gave me the most satisfaction.
For road cars with less gripper tires I'll reduce the FFB to around 4-5Nm at most.
High downforce cars are actually too quick for me and the forces generated are beyond my physical possibilities, although not being a whimp but like you said @roytheboy ...too much is too much 😅

Oh and more thing which goes out to @Chevy Heavy
I highly advise you to use a higher Sensitivity setting if you decide to use a Torque level of 3 in GT7.
I would say 3/8 or even better 3/9.
That way you will feel even more detail and most importantly it will blend in a way more comprehensive way with your torque.
Giving you a way more balanced torque to sensitivity distribution.
You will feel less fatigued whilst still getting an enormous amount of Tire Load and slip angle feedback.
Of course I don't know what rim size you use but assuming you are not using the toy sized 27cm formula wheel but instead at least a 30cm or upwards rim you should definitely accommodate yourself to drive with the in game sliders set to my aforementioned settings 🙂
I'm using the GT wheel that came with the DD Extreme. I will try your suggestion. As @roytheboy stated I've always run the in game settings at 5 and 1. On my CSL Elite I always used the default recommended settings as I was happy with those. I would be interested to see what the guy who does the settings at Fanatec (I can't remember his name) comes up with for this wheel.
 
I'm using the GT wheel that came with the DD Extreme. I will try your suggestion. As @roytheboy stated I've always run the in game settings at 5 and 1. On my CSL Elite I always used the default recommended settings as I was happy with those. I would be interested to see what the guy who does the settings at Fanatec (I can't remember his name) comes up with for this wheel.
With the Extreme Wheel which I do use too btw, I suggest you should definitely use 4/8 in game.
You might not get the most out of the torque levels in terms of realistic feel, but what you get instead is a very very well understanding of the tire grip.
As soon as your tires start to loose grip on the front axle you will immediately feel a slowly creeping in vibration which goes as far as a shudder/rattle if not reacting accordingly.
When approaching high speed braking zones, you will feel a perfectly balanced oversteer which will be communicated through a slowly but steady light going wheel whilst trailbraking and easy coming off the brakes as the car starts to rotate due to it's oversteer caused by slowly and gently easing off the brakes.

And most importantly all of this will be guided by a very pleasant and firm torque in your Wheelrim.
This is so important to understand that the most crucial thing is this exact balance between the Wheelstiffnes guided by the tire load generated whilst a controlled trailbraking attempt.
This exactly is what at least I do perceive with my posted settings.

If the understeer rattle or oversteer lightness is to quick due to a too weak torque setting, it will be harder to keep control of the car, as mislead FFB Information might lead to unwanted reaction which would have been avoided otherwise.

A FFB Torque driven setting like Maurice advices will give you a more weight transfer based Feeling.
You won't feel the tires and sudden oversteer moments can become lethal and hard to counter.

A Sensitivity driven FFB will give you a more tire load slip angle and most of all more aggressive FFB.

And btw congrats on your new Wheel you will learn to love it more and more every day 😃

And now go and have fun good man 👍

Edit: Almost forgot to mention one more VERY IMPORTANT setting.
The Interpolation.
This also has a very drastic impact on how all of the communicated FFB Signals are being decoded/filtered.
A very low INT Setting will result in a harsh and mechanical and very unrealistic feeling in the Wheel itself.

Higher INT Values will smooth out this mechanical feel and will slowly the higher you set it become way more round and refined.
With an INT setting between 4 to 6 I'd say 5 at most you will get the best rubbery feel for the tires.
Also bumps and curbs will feel way more realistic and not robotic as with low INT Settings.

Not to say that Maurice does not know what he is talking about but his whole approach seems to me like he has not been after a realistic and pleasant driving experience.

But as always with the FFB to each his own.
 
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I’ve updated absolutely nothing since getting my DD+ and haven’t had one issue in hours of driving. Knock on wood. I’m not updating anything till at least 457 and probably not till Full Force is out.
That's super good news! I'd for sure wait until 457 along with good feedback from the community before updating to it.

Here's a quick update on my DD+ experience. While I do have a support ticket open for the Coil Whine phenomena, oddly enough the whine has lessened over the last few weeks. It's at the point where I now have to get within 2 feet or closer to the base to even hear it. Basically, it's gotten to be much fainter. The slight wheel vibration I was getting while at idle in any racing game or by just turning on the base has pretty much disappeared.:embarrassed: I have no clue as to why? Part of me thinks this thing is breaking in? I am using it A LOT as it otherwise works perfectly fine and have yet to have not one disconnect in GT7, ACC or F1-2023.
 
@FMW The coil whine on mine has gotten better too. It is still pretty bad when I first turn it on, but after 20-30 minutes of racing it becomes quiet and vibration free.
 
Hi guys,

I have a DD+ too, and my home made handbrake (so not the officiel Fanatec one) -which runs fine with my DD pro- does not work at all with my DD+. Does anyone here have a Handbrake connected that works fine? I d like to know if it comes from my handbrake or from my base (maybe the firmwares still need improvements..)

Tx in advance.

Edit: I need to be more accurate: my handbrake is not recognised (like there is none) wether it's connected to the pedals or the base. No difference. (on my DD pro, it works like a charm when connected to the base)
I also have a home made shifter that works perfectly (bought both from the same person).
 
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Hi guys,

I have a DD+ too, and my home made handbrake (so not the officiel Fanatec one) -which runs fine with my DD pro- does not work at all with my DD+. Does anyone here have a Handbrake connected that works fine? I d like to know if it comes from my handbrake or from my base (maybe the firmwares still need improvements..)

Tx in advance.

Edit: I need to be more accurate: my handbrake is not recognised (like there is none) wether it's connected to the pedals or the base. No difference. (on my DD pro, it works like a charm when connected to the base)
I also have a home made shifter that works perfectly (bought both from the same person).
I have the ClubSport Handbrake V1.5 and it works with GT DD X fine.
 
Tx for your answer mate. Do u have it connected directly on the base?
Yup! Mainly using this on PS5/ GT7 so I have everything plugged into wheelbase. I don't have my shifter hooked up though so can't say for sure everything works with that but I'm assuming it will when I get around to mounting it to my rig. Haven't heard anyone having issues.
 
Hey Bodo,
There are numerous options out there.
Me personally would definitely want to get the DD+.
I was in a kind of similar situation a few weeks ago and chose to cancel my order and got me the DD Extreme Bundle over eBay Kleinanzeigen.
My order was delayed a few times too, same as yours so I looked up ebay Kleinanzeigen and thankfully this dude had a few of them so I canceled my order and bought his Bundle which was sitting just 30Km away from my Hometown.
Of course Brand New and sealed.

I had to wait a few days for my money to be re booked to my account, Fanatec was indeed very quick sending me back my money.

Everything went pretty straight forward and no hassle at all getting my bucks back.

So in conclusion I'd say the following.

If you really really want the DD+ then either wait or try to get yourself one over eBay Kleinanzeigen.

Alternatively you can try to grab yourself either the Logitech G Pro OR the Fanatec DD Pro.

Both very good Wheels.
My Order would be:
1:DD+
2:Logitech G Pro
3: DD Pro 8NM

From here on the rest is only up to you.
Good luck and I wish you make the right decision 👍
Hey, a short update and question to my Fanatec situation.
Got my money back from Fanatec after I canceled my order last week. The question is what to do now...
Like you recommended I still would love to get a DD+. Couldn´t find anything serious on Kleinanzeigen. I guess some are selling their bases that have a coil whine. Is it a real problem on the DD+ bases and the coil whine ? How was it on the DD Pro ?

On the Fanatec shop the DD+ base is shown as "ready to ship 4-7 days", also the CSL Elite V2 pedals and the McLaren GT3 V2.
Normally they should be able to send all parts.
Would you choose the McLaren wheel for the PS5 (and maybe also xbox) as a primary racing wheel ? Is there a real "need" for a round wheel later ? I guess I also need to order a QR2 wheel side for that wheel ?

Could you please take a look at the new order list if that´s all right for use on the PS5 :

  • Clubsport DD+ (999,95 €)
  • CSL Elite Pedals V2 (299,95 €)
  • Mc Laren GT3 V2 wheel (199,95 €)
  • QR2 Wheel Side (99,95 @)
------------------------------------------
Total: 1599,80 €

Do I need anything else for the start ?
I really hope they will send everything this time :)
Thanks in advance for your help...
Bodo
 
Hey, a short update and question to my Fanatec situation.
Got my money back from Fanatec after I canceled my order last week. The question is what to do now...
Like you recommended I still would love to get a DD+. Couldn´t find anything serious on Kleinanzeigen. I guess some are selling their bases that have a coil whine. Is it a real problem on the DD+ bases and the coil whine ? How was it on the DD Pro ?

On the Fanatec shop the DD+ base is shown as "ready to ship 4-7 days", also the CSL Elite V2 pedals and the McLaren GT3 V2.
Normally they should be able to send all parts.
Would you choose the McLaren wheel for the PS5 (and maybe also xbox) as a primary racing wheel ? Is there a real "need" for a round wheel later ? I guess I also need to order a QR2 wheel side for that wheel ?

Could you please take a look at the new order list if that´s all right for use on the PS5 :

  • Clubsport DD+ (999,95 €)
  • CSL Elite Pedals V2 (299,95 €)
  • Mc Laren GT3 V2 wheel (199,95 €)
  • QR2 Wheel Side (99,95 @)
------------------------------------------
Total: 1599,80 €

Do I need anything else for the start ?
I really hope they will send everything this time :)
Thanks in advance for your help...
Bodo
To answer your questions...Yes. The DD Pro does have sound coming out of it, but it's no where near as pronounced as the DD+. I have both bases. My DD Pro works flawlessly, but if I go to the extreme by putting my ear literally on top of the base, I hear a hum. If I sit in my rig, I can't hear a thing. The DD+ is another matter. If my room is dead silent, I hear a faint whine/whistle/hum. I will add, not sure others with a DD+ have had this experience, but the wheel attached to the base feels "grainy" when you begin to steer left/right from dead center. At first I thought this was some kind of hardware defect because something was rubbing internally, but when the base is off, everything spins super smooth. Then it occurred to me after doing a lot of research on this base, past base release etc. What I believe I'm feeling is "torque ripple". The DD1 and DD2 were notorious for this, but it was inherent from the out-runner motor design employed by FANATEC. Perfectly normal according to the FANATEC forums. The Boosted Media review touches on this topic on their review of the DD+ and DD. Will mentions that any torque ripple in the new bases is hardly noticeable compared to the DD1 and DD2. Maybe it's more noticeable to some? Anyway, I'm still waiting (4 weeks and counting) to hear back officially from Fanatec Support if the whine/hum/whistle on my base qualifies for a RMA. Other than that, my base works.

Regarding your shopping cart list. Nice list! The McLaren GT3 V2 is highly used by a lot of people. #1 It's relatively less expensive than other rims. #2 The 300MM size is the happy medium that will work great for GT and even open wheel cars. Whereas the 320mm GT wheels are not ideal for open wheel, and their 270mm F1 wheels are not super ideal for GT, but a lot of folks do use it for ACC. Definitely pick up the QR2. It's a much better design. Lastly, I HIGHLY recommend an aluminum extrusion rig. You lose a lot of the benefits of a high power DD base on anything flimsy. :cheers:
 
Hey, a short update and question to my Fanatec situation.
Got my money back from Fanatec after I canceled my order last week. The question is what to do now...
Like you recommended I still would love to get a DD+. Couldn´t find anything serious on Kleinanzeigen. I guess some are selling their bases that have a coil whine. Is it a real problem on the DD+ bases and the coil whine ? How was it on the DD Pro ?

On the Fanatec shop the DD+ base is shown as "ready to ship 4-7 days", also the CSL Elite V2 pedals and the McLaren GT3 V2.
Normally they should be able to send all parts.
Would you choose the McLaren wheel for the PS5 (and maybe also xbox) as a primary racing wheel ? Is there a real "need" for a round wheel later ? I guess I also need to order a QR2 wheel side for that wheel ?

Could you please take a look at the new order list if that´s all right for use on the PS5 :

  • Clubsport DD+ (999,95 €)
  • CSL Elite Pedals V2 (299,95 €)
  • Mc Laren GT3 V2 wheel (199,95 €)
  • QR2 Wheel Side (99,95 @)
------------------------------------------
Total: 1599,80 €

Do I need anything else for the start ?
I really hope they will send everything this time :)
Thanks in advance for your help...
Bodo
That is a sweet combo there.
Go for it as soon as possible.
And no you definitely don't necessarily need anything else
That's a perfect combo.
I regards of the round wheel, if you not intend to play rally or drift games you don't need a round wheel.
The McLaren V2 is the best open wheel for any racing game within the Fanatec ecosystem.
It's very light and quick to turn, it's good a very pleasant grip and is very sticky.
I use mine for 3 years now and of course it doesn't look as new anymore.
Therefore the only thing I would suggest you is to get yourself a pair of these https://www.ebay.de/itm/17600001512...i3BtqxcTna&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You have choosen the perfect setup for Ps5 well done 😃

Edit: I can only speak for my Wheelbase and it doesn't have the Coil Whine.
Keep in mind though that coil whine is absolutely within the tolerance for many electronic consumer items.
It's nothing to actually worry about.

And one more thing I can highly advise you from my own experience is this

I paid 599€ for mine and even that price is more than worth spending on that thing.
It's super duper rigid and the comfy level is on another level.
I can literally sit for ages in it and drive for hours.
Never had ANY pain at all.
Absolutely recommend to get yourself one of these if you are into something serious and stylish but also super flexible to move across your room.

479€ is an absolute bargain, and to be honest I never ever saw it being that cheap.
Usually it's never below 599€
 
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Hey, a short update and question to my Fanatec situation.
Got my money back from Fanatec after I canceled my order last week. The question is what to do now...
Like you recommended I still would love to get a DD+. Couldn´t find anything serious on Kleinanzeigen. I guess some are selling their bases that have a coil whine. Is it a real problem on the DD+ bases and the coil whine ? How was it on the DD Pro ?

On the Fanatec shop the DD+ base is shown as "ready to ship 4-7 days", also the CSL Elite V2 pedals and the McLaren GT3 V2.
Normally they should be able to send all parts.
Would you choose the McLaren wheel for the PS5 (and maybe also xbox) as a primary racing wheel ? Is there a real "need" for a round wheel later ? I guess I also need to order a QR2 wheel side for that wheel ?

Could you please take a look at the new order list if that´s all right for use on the PS5 :

  • Clubsport DD+ (999,95 €)
  • CSL Elite Pedals V2 (299,95 €)
  • Mc Laren GT3 V2 wheel (199,95 €)
  • QR2 Wheel Side (99,95 @)
------------------------------------------
Total: 1599,80 €

Do I need anything else for the start ?
I really hope they will send everything this time :)
Thanks in advance for your help...
Bodo
I have the MCL GT3 V2, the CS RS (Round) and the Clubsport Formula v2.5 wheel - and I mostly (90%) of the time use the Clubsport Formula v2.5 wheel in ACC / GT7. The build quality is great and the FFB detail really does stand out - its my go to wheel for most driving....on that note, you could consider the option below with your v2 pedals, as it comes with QR2 and the Clubsport F1 Formula wheel is a much better wheel compared to McL v2:


I have no coil whine on my DD+ that I can hear - even when close up to it, its a great base!
 
Last edited:
Hey, a short update and question to my Fanatec situation.
Got my money back from Fanatec after I canceled my order last week. The question is what to do now...
Like you recommended I still would love to get a DD+. Couldn´t find anything serious on Kleinanzeigen. I guess some are selling their bases that have a coil whine. Is it a real problem on the DD+ bases and the coil whine ? How was it on the DD Pro ?

On the Fanatec shop the DD+ base is shown as "ready to ship 4-7 days", also the CSL Elite V2 pedals and the McLaren GT3 V2.
Normally they should be able to send all parts.
Would you choose the McLaren wheel for the PS5 (and maybe also xbox) as a primary racing wheel ? Is there a real "need" for a round wheel later ? I guess I also need to order a QR2 wheel side for that wheel ?

Could you please take a look at the new order list if that´s all right for use on the PS5 :

  • Clubsport DD+ (999,95 €)
  • CSL Elite Pedals V2 (299,95 €)
  • Mc Laren GT3 V2 wheel (199,95 €)
  • QR2 Wheel Side (99,95 @)
------------------------------------------
Total: 1599,80 €

Do I need anything else for the start ?
I really hope they will send everything this time :)
Thanks in advance for your help...
Bodo
I would spend the extra €100 and get the ClubSport pedals V3, you won't regret it.
 
Thank you very much for all your answers. I am glad I found this great forum.
Ordered everything that I was listing yesterday for the beginning.
Fingers crossed they can deliver this time. Can´t wait to drive a first round in GT7
as I never tried a direct drive wheel before. My last setup was a plastic Logitech wheel
for the xbox360.. many years ago :)
Again.. thanks for your help. Have a sunny day,
Bodo
 
Does anyone know what the table mounting options are for the GT DD Extreme:
this one does not say its for the GT DD Extreme, but it looks like it might be. The GT DD Extreme sale page links nothing at all, what do they expect one to do ?
 
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Does anyone know what the table mounting options are for the GT DD Extreme:
fanatec.com

ClubSport DD Table Clamp

Thanks to its metal construction, the ClubSport DD Table Clamp is super strong and stable.
fanatec.com
fanatec.com
this one does not say its for the GT DD Extreme, but it looks like it might be. The GT DD Extreme sale page links nothing at all, what do they expect one to do ?
All versions of the CS DD bases have identical dimensions, which means that it is compatible with CS DD, CS DD+ and GT DD Extreme.
 
Does anyone know what the table mounting options are for the GT DD Extreme:
this one does not say its for the GT DD Extreme, but it looks like it might be. The GT DD Extreme sale page links nothing at all, what do they expect one to do ?
If you don’t want to go the cockpit route:


Is what i use. It wants to run away during heavy braking but that can be rigged in.
 
All versions of the CS DD bases have identical dimensions, which means that it is compatible with CS DD, CS DD+ and GT DD Extreme.
Thanks, it thought so, but when they didn't specifically say it and did mention others, it got me thinking is all.
 
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So just to give a quick and nasty update,
Yesterday my DD+ started to get random disconnects and loss of FFB.
Buttons on my Wheel not responding and Wheel Display only showing an F... Like a really big F 🙄.
I can still drive but no FFB at all.
Didn't had a single issue or disconnect ever.
No idea why it suddenly started to happen, and most annoyingly it's getting worse and becoming more often.
No matter if I play GT7 or Motorfest or ACC.
I was able to replicate it every time on the same position during the race. At least in GT7.

As soon as the Wheel is under heavy load it seems as if it causes the FFB to overload the QR or Wheel connection.
Also everytime it happens the currently played game starts to initiate huge frame drops.
Like why...
You Guys think it's an hardware issue, I mean it can't be software related as I didn't had a single issue ever.
And I play very very much and long so normally I should have noticed it before.
What do you guys advise me to do?!
RMA it or wait for Driver 457... no idea.

@super_gt what would be your take on it?
And to a the other fellow users, what would you do?
 
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I'd check the pins on the QR first. Maybe unplug it for several hours and then plug it back in? Maybe let all the capacitors in there discharge. Push the power button while it is turned off? Like try to do a hard reset. Sounds like a hardware fault. That really sucks, not good for any of us if it happened to you, could happen to ours.

edit- also contact Fanatec on the forum and support, maybe they will have some steps to try and diagnose the issue.
 
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This makes me wonder if pd nerfed the extreme to protect against some sort of qr overflow type situation. I keep thinking about your experience with motorfest and then retuning to gt7. The strength of the wheels ffb and all of that and wondering if its relevant.

Ps given Fanatec’s current state, i’d start the rma. You can alwaya cancel and they may take a while soooooo..might as well get that ball rolling.
 
So just to give a quick and nasty update,
Yesterday my DD+ started to get random disconnects and loss of FFB.
Buttons on my Wheel not responding and Wheel Display only showing an F... Like a really big F 🙄.
I can still drive but no FFB at all.
Didn't had a single issue or disconnect ever.
No idea why it suddenly started to happen, and most annoyingly it's getting worse and becoming more often.
No matter if I play GT7 or Motorfest or ACC.
I was able to replicate it every time on the same position during the race. At least in GT7.

As soon as the Wheel is under heavy load it seems as if it causes the FFB to overload the QR or Wheel connection.
Also everytime it happens the currently played game starts to initiate huge frame drops.
Like why...
You Guys think it's an hardware issue, I mean it can't be software related as I didn't had a single issue ever.
And I play very very much and long so normally I should have noticed it before.
What do you guys advise me to do?!
RMA it or wait for Driver 457... no idea.

@super_gt what would be your take on it?
And to a the other fellow users, what would you do?
Known issue on Fanatec forums. Firmware 455 supposed to be more stable than 456, but issue is not set to be resolved until 457 supposedly


Maurice Böschen
Maurice Böschen Member
April 12
Please write in English according to the forum rules.
THere is no help for your issue yet. It is a known issue, discussed in detail in this biiiig thread.
A fix is coming with a new firmware included in driver 457, currently expected to be released sometime this month.
 
Ideally its the firmware.

Guess maybe reflash everything and try something like gt7 and see how long it will stay stable?
 
So just to give a quick and nasty update,
Yesterday my DD+ started to get random disconnects and loss of FFB.
Buttons on my Wheel not responding and Wheel Display only showing an F... Like a really big F 🙄.
I can still drive but no FFB at all.
Didn't had a single issue or disconnect ever.
No idea why it suddenly started to happen, and most annoyingly it's getting worse and becoming more often.
No matter if I play GT7 or Motorfest or ACC.
I was able to replicate it every time on the same position during the race. At least in GT7.

As soon as the Wheel is under heavy load it seems as if it causes the FFB to overload the QR or Wheel connection.
Also everytime it happens the currently played game starts to initiate huge frame drops.
Like why...
You Guys think it's an hardware issue, I mean it can't be software related as I didn't had a single issue ever.
And I play very very much and long so normally I should have noticed it before.
What do you guys advise me to do?!
RMA it or wait for Driver 457... no idea.

@super_gt what would be your take on it?
And to a the other fellow users, what would you do?
I assumed you were on 455 drivers and FW. If the base is on 456 FW then that's your problem. If that's the case you need to downgrade the base FW to the one in 455 and I bet it'll be good to go. You want 2.0.1.4 on the base until they drop 457 which should be within 2 weeks AFAIK unless something has changed.

The wheel and wireless QR are ok to be on the 456 versions of the FW.

edit- this is what I have and no disconnects (well, I had one, only one time) but I had major problems with 456 on base.
The updater is very buggy for me on 456 though. I'd just try the 455 FW just for the base first.

fanatec driver FW GT DD X Driver FW versions.jpg
 
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BWX
I assumed you were on 455 drivers and FW. If the base is on 456 FW then that's your problem. If that's the case you need to downgrade the base FW to the one in 455 and I bet it'll be good to go. You want 2.0.1.4 on the base until they drop 457 which should be within 2 weeks AFAIK unless something has changed.

The wheel and wireless QR are ok to be on the 456 versions of the FW.

edit- this is what I have and no disconnects (well, I had one, only one time) but I had major problems with 456 on base.
The updater is very buggy for me on 456 though. I'd just try the 455 FW just for the base first.

View attachment 1346572
The Screenshot you ve posted shows the exact same numbers as it does on my Setup.
I'm using Driver 455 since day 1 and didn't even attempt to upgrade.
Why change a running system is my Mantra.
Unless it's necessary of course like adding ITM or FullForce Support.

Today I've played for about 6 hours in total and only had 1 disconnect.
It happened in the very beginning of my gaming session though.
I then took off the rim and tightened all bolts, the ones on the shaft where the small plastic washer sits as well as the ones across the rim itself.
All bolts were tight except of 1 bolt sitting on the shaft.
Not that it has been loose but it wasn't as firmly attached as the others ones were.

After that I reattached the wheel and played for approximately 4 hours without a single hiccup.

Anyway I'll keep my feet still and wait for 457.
 
The Screenshot you ve posted shows the exact same numbers as it does on my Setup.
I'm using Driver 455 since day 1 and didn't even attempt to upgrade.
Why change a running system is my Mantra.
Unless it's necessary of course like adding ITM or FullForce Support.

Today I've played for about 6 hours in total and only had 1 disconnect.
It happened in the very beginning of my gaming session though.
I then took off the rim and tightened all bolts, the ones on the shaft where the small plastic washer sits as well as the ones across the rim itself.
All bolts were tight except of 1 bolt sitting on the shaft.
Not that it has been loose but it wasn't as firmly attached as the others ones were.

After that I reattached the wheel and played for approximately 4 hours without a single hiccup.

Anyway I'll keep my feet still and wait for 457.
Good to hear it's going better. As BWX said, if it's effecting you then it can effect any of us. Too much money to have to wait on a rma, although I do still have my dd pro.
 
The Screenshot you ve posted shows the exact same numbers as it does on my Setup.
I'm using Driver 455 since day 1 and didn't even attempt to upgrade.
Why change a running system is my Mantra.
Unless it's necessary of course like adding ITM or FullForce Support.

Today I've played for about 6 hours in total and only had 1 disconnect.
It happened in the very beginning of my gaming session though.
I then took off the rim and tightened all bolts, the ones on the shaft where the small plastic washer sits as well as the ones across the rim itself.
All bolts were tight except of 1 bolt sitting on the shaft.
Not that it has been loose but it wasn't as firmly attached as the others ones were.

After that I reattached the wheel and played for approximately 4 hours without a single hiccup.

Anyway I'll keep my feet still and wait for 457.
Good to hear! Fanatec said that the disconnect bug is still a problem in 455 base FW, it is just much less likely to happen, but can definitely still happen. I've heard people report that FFB settings can affect that disconnect issue too. I usually run mid to low FF power overall and have no problems but that may just be a coincidence.

Also, since this is an issue with too much data, I thought maybe a lower INT setting could make it worse but I'm not sure. But given the nature of the problem I can see how FF settings in game or on the wheel could affect it. If you've changed something in the FFB settings and it got worse after that, maybe try going back to settings that you had when everything was working just to experiment.

So yeah I'm hoping 457 comes out soon and fixes these annoying issues! Fingers crossed.
 
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