Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[Kriptical]

That's crazy, all my bolts holding QR2 Lite on were very loose too. I wonder how many made it past the QC department in that condition? Glad I decided to switch to the metal QR2 before I plugged in wheel or I may not have noticed that. I usually do go over nuts and bolts on stuff like that but it shouldn't be a requirement.

given how many have been released and that both of ours were loose. Im going with..quite a few!

 

[Jules_r]

given how many have been released and that both of ours were loose. Im going with..quite a few!

..... I will be checking mine for sure, and I'm looking forward to it.... but I have quite a wait until the happy day!

 

[crackhaed]

I put on my metal QR2 and when I removed the QR2 Lite it was installed well. The screws were all tightened evenly and they all had blue loctite on them.

I read about the 456 driver stuff so I tried to go straight into plug and play and the base wasn’t recognizing the wheel. It got power, I could feel force feedback resistance but I couldn’t access the tuning menu or get the PS5 to allow it to connect.

I decided to try a firmware update and it looks like they pulled 456, it downloaded 455. I was able to update the base but the wheel wasn’t recognized and it said the WQR needed an update but then in the firmware module it said it was already up to date. After updating the base, THEN I could update the WQR and then after that it recognized the wheel.

Pirovac, great settings. With my GT DD base I had the sensitivity turned down lower so it could very well just be the change in settings, but now I feel skipping/vibrations from the front tires that I never got before.

In a gr3 when I overturn somewhat the wheel goes a bit lighter but then if I go more egregious I actually feel the rubber skipping. I always got the lightness but not the vibration beyond that.

Then I tried an FF car, because I wanted to see if the understeer on acceleration felt any different and it was a very similar feeling. I start hearing squeal when it’s on the limit but when it is definitely over I could feel the tires spinning.

Again, not sure if it was the increase in sensitivity or that this base is better able to communicate an increase in sensitivity.

 

[PirovacBoy]

@crackhaed
Glad I could help you enjoy GT even more now.
The Sensitivity Slider is a very useful and important Tool.
Same goes for the INT Setting Baseside.
Balancing them both is key to maximize the Tire Feel.
A low INT Setting combined with low Sensitivity in game will give you more Chassis/Suspension/Weight Transfer Feel.
Higher INT Values works like an Equalizer to bring the raw Signal Spikes more in line with all Signals in the FFB Code which can THEN be optimized by adjusting the Sensitivity in game to bring Chassis/Suspension AND the Quickness and Transparency of the tire response in line.

BTW, with my posted DD + Settings
you're even able to precisely distinguish the difference in driving train.
Either you're running a RWD or an FF drive( which btw was felt with my DD Pro Settings too) but now you can even feel an AWD precisely which wasn't possible prior.

The DD+ is a technical masterpiece in Engineering and shows how good and detailed actually the FFB Signal is coded in GT7.

It's the Settings on the Wheelbase which will determine how much enjoyment you're going to get.

I know that FFB is partly a personal preference thing but there definitely is a sweet spot to be found...and honestly that's what I did I think.

A very intuitive and REALISTIC feel and driving experience.

The purists will say no way you gotta keep everything off but that is simply outdated stone age thinking.

Technology has evolved so have FFB Signals.
Every game has its own methology.
So it's up to us to refine and adjust it.

There is no reference FFB Signal, so it's up to the developer to implement it the way they think it's meant to be.
And unless there is an official Reference Setting or clearly stated which Wheelbase was used for development with specific developer Settings in mind I highly advise against turning everything off.

It just feels completely unrealistic, mechanical and very unrefined.

 

[super_gt]

I decided to try a firmware update and it looks like they pulled 456

Driver 456 is still there.

 

[BWX]

Now my TC is activating by itself in GT7 on this wheel. Have had many disconnects while driving where wheel stops responding to inputs, like steering and everything. Hopefully it can get ironed out in a FW update. FF is great but it's not usable right now in GT7. Not sure if I can downgrade to 455 firmwares, because it wasn't doing that before.

 

[super_gt]

Now my TC is activating by itself in GT7 on this wheel.

Do you have firmware 1.0.7.0 installed on the GT Extreme steering wheel?
Is your ACP setting in Analog Axes mode?

 

[Avenger2000]

Now my TC is activating by itself in GT7 on this wheel. Have had many disconnects while driving where wheel stops responding to inputs, like steering and everything. Hopefully it can get ironed out in a FW update. FF is great but it's not usable right now in GT7. Not sure if I can downgrade to 455 firmwares, because it wasn't doing that before.

The disconnects are random. It’s all due to luck. Supposedly all the firmware released so far for the DD+ has them but I don’t know if one release has more than the other. It’s disconcerting that they haven’t fixed it yet. Fanatec didn’t notice the issue all the time the release of the DD+ was delayed due to licensing approval?

 

[PirovacBoy]

Do you have firmware 1.0.7.0 installed on the steering wheel?

My Wheelbase has 1.0.2.0 and Wheel has 1.0.3.0
My McLaren V2 has the latest Firmware, again no issues with that either.
No issues so far.
Wheelbase absolutely quite no coil whine or any other problems.
No disconnect, nada.
So far it's working flawless...
I hope it stays so and will definitely keep my hands off any update if not absolutely necessary i.e FullForce update.

 

[Avenger2000]

My Wheelbase has 1.0.2.0 and Wheel has 1.0.3.0
My McLaren V2 has the latest Firmware, again no issues with that either.
No issues so far.
Wheelbase absolutely quite no coil whine or any other problems.
No disconnect, nada.
So far it's working flawless...
I hope it stays so and will definitely keep my hands off any update if not absolutely necessary i.e FullForce update.

Yeah don’t update if it is working for you.

 

[PirovacBoy]

BTW has anyone maybe some info on when the ITM Support for GT7 is meant to be released.
And what about FullForce implementation?!
Is there a Roadmap or something?
As much as I like the Wheel but currently I stick to my trustworthy McLaren V2.
Never used Gloves but have ordered a pair of thin Racing gloves today as the stitching on the Extreme Rim can get kind of annoying after a while.
And with high Torque Values I find it just doesn't provide the desired grip.

 

[Avenger2000]

BTW has anyone maybe some info on when the ITM Support for GT7 is meant to be released.
And what about FullForce implementation?!
Is there a Roadmap or something?
As much as I like the Wheel but currently I stick to my trustworthy McLaren V2.
Never used Gloves but have ordered a pair of thin Racing gloves today as the stitching on the Extreme Rim can get kind of annoying after a while.
And with high Torque Values I find it just doesn't provide the desired grip.

I read on the official Fanatec forum that the DD extreme wheel support with ITM is being worked on for GT7 by the developer.

 

[FMW]

Driver 456 is still there.

The Fanatec forum mentioned there's a fix coming in March that fixes an issue with the 456 release. The issue is that some wheels don't pick up the firmware version correctly with certain wheels resulting in a update loop issue. USE 456 at your own risk. Fanatec says to just ignore the FIRMWARE in the wheel being not recognized correctly.

 

[BWX]

Do you have firmware 1.0.7.0 installed on the GT Extreme steering wheel?
Is your ACP setting in Analog Axes mode?View attachment 1331735

It's 1.0.3.0 on the wheel, 1.0.0.7 for the QR, 2.0.2.6 on the base. I think those were set to "A A" but those don't work in GT7.

edit- just noticed this now. Says 1.0.7.0 is available for wheel, which it did not before.

edit- I just updated to 1.0.7.0 on the wheel because it was so broken and buggy with 1.0.3.0 on there. Yesterday FW manager said it was all up to date using driver 456 so not sure why I was on 1.0.3.0. FW update went fine, maybe that'll help. Can't be much worse than it was. I'll leave the analog paddles to bite point and see what happens in GT7.

 

[Kriptical]

@crackhaed
Glad I could help you enjoy GT even more now.
The Sensitivity Slider is a very useful and important Tool.
Same goes for the INT Setting Baseside.
Balancing them both is key to maximize the Tire Feel.
A low INT Setting combined with low Sensitivity in game will give you more Chassis/Suspension/Weight Transfer Feel.
Higher INT Values works like an Equalizer to bring the raw Signal Spikes more in line with all Signals in the FFB Code which can THEN be optimized by adjusting the Sensitivity in game to bring Chassis/Suspension AND the Quickness and Transparency of the tire response in line.

BTW, with my posted DD + Settings
you're even able to precisely distinguish the difference in driving train.
Either you're running a RWD or an FF drive( which btw was felt with my DD Pro Settings too) but now you can even feel an AWD precisely which wasn't possible prior.

The DD+ is a technical masterpiece in Engineering and shows how good and detailed actually the FFB Signal is coded in GT7.

It's the Settings on the Wheelbase which will determine how much enjoyment you're going to get.

I know that FFB is partly a personal preference thing but there definitely is a sweet spot to be found...and honestly that's what I did I think.

A very intuitive and REALISTIC feel and driving experience.

The purists will say no way you gotta keep everything off but that is simply outdated stone age thinking.

Technology has evolved so have FFB Signals.
Every game has its own methology.
So it's up to us to refine and adjust it.

There is no reference FFB Signal, so it's up to the developer to implement it the way they think it's meant to be.
And unless there is an official Reference Setting or clearly stated which Wheelbase was used for development with specific developer Settings in mind I highly advise against turning everything off.

It just feels completely unrealistic, mechanical and very unrefined.

Questions!

Relative to your statement re int and the in game sensi setting. From your settings if i was to go from the 300mm to a 265mm yoke(f1esportv2) would the int setting remain the same or would the smaller wheel require a higher int setting whereas a 330mm would maybe be a lower int setting?

Or am i lost on the sauce?

Also, are you in vr?

I ask because my brain treats flat vs vr differently. Basically, when in vr i prefer a more raw signal whereas flat the more refined wheel settings feel decent. Its a funny thing.

Thanks. Appreciate your advice

 

[Jules_r]

How exciting, looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Frustratingly the 'Available' date on my (UK) order changed today from Feb 26th to March 11th.... thats going to be like forever!

Something strange is happening, and I don't know weather to be excited, or not?

When I placed my DD Extreme order (UK) on Feb 10th it said 'Available Feb 26th' and if I remember correctly said the same date against my order.

Then, last Wednesday everything changed. The website changed to 'Available on March 25th', while the available date against my order changed to March 11th.

Tonight I looked on the website for about the tenth time today and it now says 'Ships within 4-7 days', and the available date against my order remains the same at March 11th....

Is it time to put the party music on and dance around the house like an idiot?

 

[PirovacBoy]

Questions!

Relative to your statement re int and the in game sensi setting. From your settings if i was to go from the 300mm to a 265mm yoke(f1esportv2) would the int setting remain the same or would the smaller wheel require a higher int setting whereas a 330mm would maybe be a lower int setting?

Or am i lost on the sauce?

Also, are you in vr?

I ask because my brain treats flat vs vr differently. Basically, when in vr i prefer a more raw signal whereas flat the more refined wheel settings feel decent. Its a funny thing.

Thanks. Appreciate your advice

I haven't tried a smaller rim than 300mm on the DD+.
On my DD Pro I used less torque and higher int on the 280mm gt rim.

When I switched to the McLaren V2 I used more torque and a lower int setting to get a similar feeling.

The round shape rim also made a difference compared to the open wheel style McLaren V2.

And no I don't use VR so no idea.

BTW, have you tried my posted settings?!

Any opinion would be appreciated.
My Focus during Setup was to get a precise Tire Feedback and a stable and firm Wheel Feel.
I filtered out any distracting noise by setting INT until I hit a smooth and synchronized Tire and Weight Balance.
The Weight Transfer shouldn't be too exaggerated yet nuanced to provide a stable and smooth ride.
With lower INT and lower Sensitivity and NIN off, the Weight Transfer was more obvious but tire response was delayed and not very precise and direct.
NDP was dialed in so that quick corrections like counter steer were easily and intuitive to execute.
Oscillation was partly minimized too without sacrificing the small nuances.
And NFR was added to give a more realistic and true to life Wheel Feel.
NIN was set to the lowest possible to minimize Weight Transfer Spikes to make it easier to hold a stable driving line.
Of course I also tried everything off but to be honest it felt awful, completely unrealistic and very mechanical.
Oscillation was beyond good and evil and twitchy as hell.
Nowhere near what a direct drive Wheelbase should feel like, more like a belt driven Wheelbase.
Coggy and just very cheap.
I don't know about PC Sim FFB but with GT on PS5 in particular it definitely felt horrible.

Hope you get an idea what my approach was and feel free to ask if you have any questions.

 

[Jules_r]

Something strange is happening, and I don't know weather to be excited, or not?

When I placed my DD Extreme order (UK) on Feb 10th it said 'Available Feb 26th' and if I remember correctly said the same date against my order.

Then, last Wednesday everything changed. The website changed to 'Available on March 25th', while the available date against my order changed to March 11th.

Tonight I looked on the website for about the tenth time today and it now says 'Ships within 4-7 days', and the available date against my order remains the same at March 11th....

Is it time to put the party music on and dance around the house like an idiot?

And now it says......

Open for Pre-Orders
Availability date:Mar 25, 2024

I wonder why it changed briefly......

 

[Oi Oi JC]

And now it says......

Open for Pre-Orders
Availability date:Mar 25, 2024

I wonder why it changed briefly......

I ordered mine on Feb 10th and it said available Feb 26th, then it changed to March 11th, I just checked and mine still says available March 11th

 

[Jules_r]

I ordered mine on Feb 10th and it said available Feb 26th, then it changed to March 11th, I just checked and mine still says available March 11th

Heres a screen grab, I guess it's something to do with yesterday being Feb 26th, maybe something went a bit wrong.....

 

[Kriptical]

I haven't tried a smaller rim than 300mm on the DD+.
On my DD Pro I used less torque and higher int on the 280mm gt rim.

When I switched to the McLaren V2 I used more torque and a lower int setting to get a similar feeling.

The round shape rim also made a difference compared to the open wheel style McLaren V2.

And no I don't use VR so no idea.

BTW, have you tried my posted settings?!

Any opinion would be appreciated.
My Focus during Setup was to get a precise Tire Feedback and a stable and firm Wheel Feel.
I filtered out any distracting noise by setting INT until I hit a smooth and synchronized Tire and Weight Balance.
The Weight Transfer shouldn't be too exaggerated yet nuanced to provide a stable and smooth ride.
With lower INT and lower Sensitivity and NIN off, the Weight Transfer was more obvious but tire response was delayed and not very precise and direct.
NDP was dialed in so that quick corrections like counter steer were easily and intuitive to execute.
Oscillation was partly minimized too without sacrificing the small nuances.
And NFR was added to give a more realistic and true to life Wheel Feel.
NIN was set to the lowest possible to minimize Weight Transfer Spikes to make it easier to hold a stable driving line.
Of course I also tried everything off but to be honest it felt awful, completely unrealistic and very mechanical.
Oscillation was beyond good and evil and twitchy as hell.
Nowhere near what a direct drive Wheelbase should feel like, more like a belt driven Wheelbase.
Coggy and just very cheap.
I don't know about PC Sim FFB but with GT on PS5 in particular it definitely felt horrible.

Hope you get an idea what my approach was and feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Really appreciate your explanations of the functions snd how you applied them. Particularly the relationship between int and in game sensitivity in order to iron out the inside, outside and middle of the tires. Personally thats one of the fundamental things to figure out as most things seem to come after, or because of, something related to that.

Initially i was waiting to get to a desktop to properly respond to your post but apparently thats not going to happen anytime soon. Busy couple days. Which will prevent me from logging in until Thursday…at which time im going to have a good bender 😂. Anyway, while rereading your post snd thinking about the past few days driving i really want to go back and try them again. They are loaded in slot 4! (Wheels at 100). I’ve oscillated between yours and just int 4 7/3 in game. Rest 100 or 0. I think you did a solid job minimizing a many of those weird mechanical jolts while keeping good wheel feel. I was a little slower detecting wheel spin during acceleration and correcting the car getting a little tail happy pendulum-Y.

Im going to go reread your description while planning my testing on Thursday. Race C in the 911 is a solid proving ground.

 

[Jules_r]

I ordered mine on Feb 10th and it said available Feb 26th, then it changed to March 11th, I just checked and mine still says available March 11th

.... and now mine has changed again!!

When I log into my account it has changed from 'Available March 11th' to 'Available Feb 28th', which is today!!!!

 

[Dep Fishtail]

.... and now mine has changed again!!

When I log into my account it has changed from 'Available March 11th' to 'Available Feb 28th', which is today!!!!

Good news for you!
Mine keeps moving out again. At least they’re sending emails now it looks like the latest as of today is March 12.

Edit: yet the website says 4-7 days 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hope yours goes well now 👍

 

[Jules_r]

Good news for you!
Mine keeps moving out again. At least they’re sending emails now it looks like the latest as of today is March 12.

Edit: yet the website says 4-7 days 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hope yours goes well now 👍

.... I shudder to think what mine will change to next!

Good luck for yours, too!

 

[Oi Oi JC]

.... and now mine has changed again!!

When I log into my account it has changed from 'Available March 11th' to 'Available Feb 28th', which is today!!!!

Same here!

Would be nice if we get a shipping notification by the end of the week.......

 

[jimmy1971]

Placed my order less than an hour ago.
Order is in process.
Wonder how long shipping will take from Texas to Quebec with USPS (no options).
I'm guessing it will be here in about 3 weeks. Can't wait!

 

[Oi Oi JC]

Same here!

Would be nice if we get a shipping notification by the end of the week.......

Email from Fanatec this morning. 😁

 

[PirovacBoy]

Hello Men
Anyone noticed the change in FFB Torque output.
It's weaker AFTER I've installed the 1.43.
Very very obvious and I wonder if it's just me.

 

[Baltimore101]

@crackhaed
Glad I could help you enjoy GT even more now.
The Sensitivity Slider is a very useful and important Tool.
Same goes for the INT Setting Baseside.
Balancing them both is key to maximize the Tire Feel.
A low INT Setting combined with low Sensitivity in game will give you more Chassis/Suspension/Weight Transfer Feel.
Higher INT Values works like an Equalizer to bring the raw Signal Spikes more in line with all Signals in the FFB Code which can THEN be optimized by adjusting the Sensitivity in game to bring Chassis/Suspension AND the Quickness and Transparency of the tire response in line.

BTW, with my posted DD + Settings
you're even able to precisely distinguish the difference in driving train.
Either you're running a RWD or an FF drive( which btw was felt with my DD Pro Settings too) but now you can even feel an AWD precisely which wasn't possible prior.

The DD+ is a technical masterpiece in Engineering and shows how good and detailed actually the FFB Signal is coded in GT7.

It's the Settings on the Wheelbase which will determine how much enjoyment you're going to get.

I know that FFB is partly a personal preference thing but there definitely is a sweet spot to be found...and honestly that's what I did I think.

A very intuitive and REALISTIC feel and driving experience.

The purists will say no way you gotta keep everything off but that is simply outdated stone age thinking.

Technology has evolved so have FFB Signals.
Every game has its own methology.
So it's up to us to refine and adjust it.

There is no reference FFB Signal, so it's up to the developer to implement it the way they think it's meant to be.
And unless there is an official Reference Setting or clearly stated which Wheelbase was used for development with specific developer Settings in mind I highly advise against turning everything off.

It just feels completely unrealistic, mechanical and very unrefined.

With DD GT Pro the wheel goes numb (weird feeling with all vibrations gone) in some turns in GT7, for example at Spa in Eau Rouge and Blanchimont. Can you tell us if with DD extreme the numbness is gone?

 

[PirovacBoy]

With DD GT Pro the wheel goes numb (weird feeling with all vibrations gone) in some turns in GT7, for example at Spa in Eau Rouge and Blanchimont. Can you tell us if with DD extreme the numbness is gone?

What Settings do you use.
Which Car with which tire type?
And most of all what exactly do you mean with numb?
No FFB fidelity at all?! Or just a loss of the fine details.
With my posted DD Pro Settings in GR3 on racing tires I could very well feel the dynamic compression going through eau rouge at high speeds.

On the DD Extreme on the other hand this compression feels even mightier with a finer and smoother dynamic curve and with a few more granular detail which wasn't that obvious and pronounced on the DD Pro.

Overall the DD Extreme is a step up in every aspect of FFB Clarity and fidelity and especially smoothness and detail as well as dynamic range and of course the sheer Force.