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- Z-Crazy
Dom, I've had tons of issues with Fanalab and the wheelbase's 5 settings. Is there a trick to get everything sync'ed up?
Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread
- Thread starter super_gt
- 3,719 comments
- 543,211 views
Dom, I've had tons of issues with Fanalab and the wheelbase's 5 settings. Is there a trick to get everything sync'ed up?
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- Z-Crazy
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- Z-Crazy
CSL Elite, PS4 edition.
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- Z-Crazy
I can't say as the product isn't available yet... but if it is similar to the current Universal Hub wheel, the offset forward is quite substantial. While it can be adjusted for on a cockpit, it still introduces more leverage and would push me further away from my monitors. Neither one terribly appealing to me.
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okay that one is compatible. And what exactly are your syncing issues? Do you use at least driver 345 with the newest FanaLab v1.12 version? For me, when I load any profile in FanaLab, then the correct values are loaded and set in the wheel base tuning menu because both are linked with each other.
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- andrewhake
Looking forward to that, thanks Dom!
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- Z-Crazy
Yeah, every time I load it, the Fanalab settings are massively different to the wheel's settings (not writing changes correctly) and any changes just seem to confuse the wheel. Last time I tried it, I had to reload the driver on the base to get it working normal again. I'm not sure the handshake is working correctly either. Sometimes it loads and doesn't recognize the wheel and pedals. As this is USB, lots of variables come in to play. So I've just decided not to worry about it. Honestly, with the wheel's ability to adjust on the fly, I don't find Fanalab terribly useful. Maybe in the future, who knows.
Don't go too deep, I was just curious, but don't want to hijack the thread. I truly don't see a real use for Fanalab at this time anyway... for me at least.
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I'm just guessing here, but based on the fact that the Podium Hub only has one mounting point for the Advanced Paddle Module limiting the adjustability of the paddles' distance to the wheel rim, the offset is going to be quite small.
Here is a picture of the Podium Hub with a Momo wheel next to the Formula V2. Based on the distance between the paddles and the wheel rims, I'd be surprised if the Button Module adds more than around 10mm.
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- Z-Crazy
The wheel and hub alone aren't the issue, its the additional module which I'm assuming will be similar to the Universal Hub.
Correct me if I'm wrong @DomB_Fanatec, from this point, the module you mentioned will add an additional 30-60mm+ (depending on the thickness) to the offset pictured above, right?
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Another image, and based on how much of the hub is hidden inside the button module, I think it adds less than 10mm...
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I have the Podium Racing Wheel F1. When using it with my PS4 Pro I have no problems with GT Sport or Assetto Corsa but when using it with Project Cars 2 on the PS4 Pro the game will not recognize the Podium wheel set.
So what is it that needs to be done to use the Podium wheel set with Project Cars 2 on the PS4 pRO???
So what is it that needs to be done to use the Podium wheel set with Project Cars 2 on the PS4 pRO???
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You have to use the PS4 compatibility mode for older games like project cars 2.
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Thanks - that works for me.
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- MortenCR
I had the faulty power supply for my Podium DD2 exchanged. Then I had my Xbox One Universal Hub checked, because I had excessive play/wobble with the QR, but Fanatec refused to exchange it because it lived up to their own quality standards. I sold my DD2 wheelbase and upgraded to a Simucube 2 Pro. I'm very pleased with it and have experienced no problems at all.
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So I just downloaded the new Fana Lab software & driver. Is there a good discussion thread for the new software? Does it automatically optimize the DD1 to have the best settings for each game or does it stay with what you have pre-programmed in set 1, set 2, set 3, etc? I can definitely tell that the lights and dash are better synchronized to the games I’m playing but when I go into the Fana Lab software it looks like it’s using the presets that I’ve plugged in based on Fanatec’s recommended settings. All thoughts are welcome.
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You have to setup everything for yourself and save it to game profiles. Just have a look at the FanaLab manual and introduction videos which are available at YouTube. It's a complex but powerful tool with a lot of features. You can setup the leds specific to every car for example etc etc.
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There is a FanaLab thread in the Fanatec forum. Right now, we're in the middle of moving to a brand new website, so the forum isn't fully functional at the moment, please check back later!
FanaLab doesn't assign best settings for each game automatically. However, there is the option to share settings, and some users are already sharing their settings on the Fanatec forum. It may be possible in the future to integrate our recommended settings into the software.
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Thanks @DomB_Fanatec. I’ve had a blast playing the new ACC v 1.1 with my DD1 wheel - probably the most realistic force feedback I have ever felt in any game. For now I’ll just use the recommended settings on the Fanatec website since it seems like a good place to start.
Honestly the only issue I’m still having pertains to RSeat - I’m still getting some movement/vibrations of the steering wheel deck ... I definitely think the most ideal rig for the DD1 would have lateral supports as recommended by the company.
Honestly the only issue I’m still having pertains to RSeat - I’m still getting some movement/vibrations of the steering wheel deck ... I definitely think the most ideal rig for the DD1 would have lateral supports as recommended by the company.
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- PaulDiRoosta
Well I finally took the plunge and my DD1 arrived on Friday. My previous wheel T300 had started to suffer from FFB fade but generally I was happy with the FFB detail from the T300. So I put in the DD1 settings recommended on the Fanatec forum and I have been testing for 3 days now mainly on ACC and a little on AC. So far I am very disappointed as the FFB feels very lifeless and I can feel the suspension coming through but nothing else. If I don’t ride the kerbs there is zero feeling from the FFB, on the roads it feels like I am driving on perfectly flat surfaces and get no feelings that I am loosing cornering grip so if the rear end steps out I cannot catch it before the car swaps ends. At this moment I feel that the T300 has a far superior FFB to the DD1.
@JoshKM are you using the exact same settings on the Fanatec forum?
What can you feel driving on the road surface?
Can you feel understeer/oversteer?
Anybody else can give me alternate DD1 settings to try on ACC?
@JoshKM are you using the exact same settings on the Fanatec forum?
What can you feel driving on the road surface?
Can you feel understeer/oversteer?
Anybody else can give me alternate DD1 settings to try on ACC?
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Do you use FanaLab? I made car specific profiles for every car in ACC. These files were made with a DD2 but can be transferred to be used with DD1 pretty easy by just adjusting the FF in the Tuning Menu. So for example when the profile has FF 60 this results in Max Peak of 15Nm. To get the same Max Peak you would need FF 75.
These files are to be used with driver 346, Firmware 662 and Motor Firmware 30.
In Game settings:
Gain: 60%
Minimum Force: 0%
Dynamic Damping: 0%
Road Effects: 0%
Frequency: 333Hz
Steer Lock: 1070°
Ster Linearity: 1.00
Brake Gamma: 1.00
Gearshift Debouncing: 50ms
These files are to be used with driver 346, Firmware 662 and Motor Firmware 30.
In Game settings:
Gain: 60%
Minimum Force: 0%
Dynamic Damping: 0%
Road Effects: 0%
Frequency: 333Hz
Steer Lock: 1070°
Ster Linearity: 1.00
Brake Gamma: 1.00
Gearshift Debouncing: 50ms
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- PaulDiRoosta
@SimRacer925 Thank you for the profiles. I had downloaded and installed the latest driver 346 but did not realise that a newer firmware was also included. I updated the firmware the 1st day thinking that all was up to date so today I installed the firmware 662 and then installed one of your Audi profiles in Fanalab. That made a huge difference to the FFB and my wheel came alive so thank you kindly for your assistance. 
Just one further question. You say in game Dynamic Damping should be set to 0% where the Fanatec forum recommends 100% so which one should I use? I have tried both and 0% seems to have more detailed FFB but I will test over the next few days to see what is best for me.
Just one further question. You say in game Dynamic Damping should be set to 0% where the Fanatec forum recommends 100% so which one should I use? I have tried both and 0% seems to have more detailed FFB but I will test over the next few days to see what is best for me.
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Because the Fanatec wheel settings are something new to you, here's a quick explanation of how to enhance the details in FFB:
Increase the FEI setting value.
Decrease the NAT DMP and NFR settings value.
Experiment with these settings and see what you like.
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I feel a lot better after watching Shawn Cole's video of his DD1 set up on his RSeat S1. I have the same rig and I've been going nuts trying to fix the small amount of wheel deck flex but it looks like Shawn has it even worse than me. I'm going to do a full review of the S1 at some point but it's a fatal flaw in my opinion - I think the DD1 really needs side mounts.
