Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread
- Thread starter super_gt
- 3,719 comments
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- 258
- coloraudi
- motorotoloco
...
You can slap on ANY of our steering wheels and not just Podium series ...
Can we assume that CS and CSL steering wheels will need a 'Gold QR Adapter' in order to communicate with a DD base?
And can I guess the price of that adapter to be in the range $150 to $180?
Or, no adapter? ... "slap on" connotes no adapter.
Can we assume that CS and CSL steering wheels will need a 'Gold QR Adapter' in order to communicate with a DD base?
And can I guess the price of that adapter to be in the range $150 to $180?
Or, no adapter? ... "slap on" connotes no adapter.
You can use your CS and CSL wheels without any new adapters. Though from my understanding any wheel using the lower spec CSL adapter will have the torque reduced to around a CSW V2.5 level. Normal CS wheels with the CS QR will not have the torque reduced.
- 415
- Germany
Toto76 is correct, all the steering wheels currently sold on our site will work on the Podium wheel bases, including the CSL Series wheels with the 'simplified QR'. The base will automatically run at a reduced torque level when this QR is detected. There is no 'Gold QR Adapter'. If you are thinking of the one shown on the 911 GT3 R prototype wheel we displayed at the SimRacing Expo, this was simply a ClubSport Quick Release Adapter in a custom colour that we used for the show.Can we assume that CS and CSL steering wheels will need a 'Gold QR Adapter' in order to communicate with a DD base?
And can I guess the price of that adapter to be in the range $150 to $180?
Or, no adapter? ... "slap on" connotes no adapter.
To be clear, it is 'remote' in the sense that the power button is separate from the main base, but like most safety switches, it is a wired connection. The cable will be of a decent length, so that users can route it around their rig to be mounted in a convenient position.
I actually disagree with the 'thumb position' thing in general. In my opinion, placing your thumbs outside of the rim reduces your level of control, and you are more likely to crash and injure yourself. In the vast majority of racing disciplines, the professional drivers do not hold their wheels with their thumbs outside of the rim. Instead, they hook their thumbs around the grip in the natural way. If they lose control and are about to have a major impact, some drivers will let go of the wheel completely, but others will hold on. Perhaps it makes sense in certain forms of off-roading, because it is harder to anticipate the big bumps, but this is unnecessary in most performance driving, including rally (watch any recent WRC onboards, none of the drivers have their thumbs outside the rim).
As long as you have a good grip and you are concentrating, you should not be surprised by the level of impacts through the Podium bases. If you're worried about damaging your thumbs from the high level of forces while driving, you should turn it down. In any case, as you say, the killswitch isn't helpful in this situation. The killswitch is something that could be used if the wheel ends up spinning rapidly after you have let go, which can happen in certain sims due to physics quirks/glitches. I don't recommend trying to 'stop' an already rapidly-spinning wheel with your hands on any direct drive system.
- 319
There’s more than a power cable and usb to plug in
plus you can’t plug the rest of your Fanatec peripherals into it and have the same single USB.The way I see it, if you are happy with a Fanatec’s gear then as an ecosystem it can’t be beat even taking DD out of the equation.
However I don’t like being locked into one brand or ecosystem especially when there are other better products out there which means for me it’s not something I take into consideration but I can certainly see why others do.
I have 7 USB’s just for my hardware, condensing that to one would be great, I tried a USB hub thinking that would work but the damn thing kept completely disconnecting and then not being discoverable until I rebooted! So 7 trusty USB extensions it was
.The cable runs don’t bother me though as I’ve already got speaker wires and a 10m HDMI cable run along the same wall.
i am no expert by any means.. but as i understand it
if want want to use a fanatec wheel you will need
https://www.simracingmachines.com/WebShop/custom-made-fanatec-conversion-kit
or figure out a way to get some buttons were you can reach them.
i think you need to buy a wheel adapter also.
search you tube there are videos of there stuff you need to do
but it not thrust master simple. like my t300 and t3pa pedals. i have 1 usb cable and 1 power cable.
i want a good pedal set and a good wheel with out all the cables.
if want want to use a fanatec wheel you will need
https://www.simracingmachines.com/WebShop/custom-made-fanatec-conversion-kit
or figure out a way to get some buttons were you can reach them.
i think you need to buy a wheel adapter also.
search you tube there are videos of there stuff you need to do
but it not thrust master simple. like my t300 and t3pa pedals. i have 1 usb cable and 1 power cable.
i want a good pedal set and a good wheel with out all the cables.
- 505
With the sort driving I was describing - or alluding to - the environment is low range, first or second gear - often crawling speeds, sometimes a brisk walk or sometimes extremely slow and often up extremely steep climbs ... and it is mandatory instruction to have one's thumbs outside of wheel rim. So pay respect to what are real off roading issues in our bush tough trail environments. A slow moving wheel that slips off a rock and hits another rock can force a front wheel across its chosen angle by 25 degrees instantly because there is the force of a 3 tonne truck under power pushing the vehicle forward, the vehicle falls sideways off the rock and falls downwards, glances onto another rock which wrenches the steering wheel instantly and violently, and the front wheel has to go somewhere. Tough wheels and reinforced sidewalls are also requirements in that environment.
Broken thumbs have been common in that environment, although power steering has lessened the risk IMO, but the thumb instruction is not an option, its basic instruction to keep your thumbs out of risk, given by 4WD clubs around Australia to everyone and based on hard experience.
And for powerful direct drive wheels - I'd put an age limit on the DD wheels, because young hands and growing bones could be at risk.
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- 319
- 97
- Italy
And it works great.
- 319
Yes they do, they work perfectly. I bought a USB conversion kit from them and I have no complaints.
Have you seen the conversion they did to the new McLaren G3 wheel wow just wow (referring to the 3rd picture)
https://www.simracingmachines.com/WebShop/fanatec-mclaren-gt3-wheel-converted-to-usb
- 97
- Italy
I got the universal adapter to use with the Quick release, because I have both the BMW and the F1 Rim. It works also with the McLaren Rim.
- 319
Yes I saw those SRB wheel adapters almost bought one, but I was referring to the fact that SRM replaced the original rocker paddles with SnapBack magnetic paddle shifters and they look awesome
- 97
- Italy
Yeah. I made them do the work to have the magnetic shifter on the F1. Pretty sweet paddles.
- 426
- United States
- andrewhake
Just wanted to say that I recently received the Sim-lab TR1 (https://sim-lab.eu/product/teamredline-tr1-chassis/) in preparation for getting the Podium Racing Wheel when it is available. This thing is NICE. Coming from a GT Omega wheel stand (fully bolted up to get rid of much flex and wobble as possible) the difference is completely night and day. There is absolutely zero wobble and almost no flex. To me it feels like zero flex, but I'm sure someone using a Sim-Lab P1 a small amount of flex might be noticeable but it feels solid.
All of the brackets are 8mm thick and nicely anodized and machined. The way Sim-lab uses countersunk M8 bolts throughout and the hand lever bolts to adjust the deck angle is fantastic with zero slip. The deck and the pedal box are both pre-drilled for pretty much every wheel base and pedal set out there and will work fine with any custom pedal box with the amount of mounting options available. And of course they have front mount decks available for bases with that setup.
I plan on using this with the Podium Racing Wheel DD setup as mentioned, but have been using it with the CSL Elite PS4, CSL Elite Pedals, CS Shifter and Handbrake. I am using the side mount (which Sim-lab was nice enough to make in black for my TR1), and their Clubsport shifter mount which allows for a ton of adjustability. I mount my handbrake to the right hand side of my shifter (I use a LHD configuration).
I have driven on plenty of higher end DD setups (even Ferrari F1 simulators), and this isn't on the same level, but is always amazing going to a setup with almost no flex. It makes even the lower end hardware drastically better. As others have mentioned in the past. Before you upgrade to a DD setup, first just upgrade your actual mounting setup so you can experience all that your current wheel base and pedals have to offer.
This is by far the best native setup I have ever experienced for use with a PS4. What's even nicer is that I can actually use the TR1 as a wheel stand as well as a cockpit with a dedicated seat if I want. Easy to pull off the seat and just slide it under my couch and use it in my living room. My couch happens to be at just the right heigh and has the right amount of space to slide it right underneath to get the perfect seat position. Can't wait to get the Podium! Anyone else looking for a relatively simple cockpit setup I would highly recommend the TR1.
All of the brackets are 8mm thick and nicely anodized and machined. The way Sim-lab uses countersunk M8 bolts throughout and the hand lever bolts to adjust the deck angle is fantastic with zero slip. The deck and the pedal box are both pre-drilled for pretty much every wheel base and pedal set out there and will work fine with any custom pedal box with the amount of mounting options available. And of course they have front mount decks available for bases with that setup.
I plan on using this with the Podium Racing Wheel DD setup as mentioned, but have been using it with the CSL Elite PS4, CSL Elite Pedals, CS Shifter and Handbrake. I am using the side mount (which Sim-lab was nice enough to make in black for my TR1), and their Clubsport shifter mount which allows for a ton of adjustability. I mount my handbrake to the right hand side of my shifter (I use a LHD configuration).
I have driven on plenty of higher end DD setups (even Ferrari F1 simulators), and this isn't on the same level, but is always amazing going to a setup with almost no flex. It makes even the lower end hardware drastically better. As others have mentioned in the past. Before you upgrade to a DD setup, first just upgrade your actual mounting setup so you can experience all that your current wheel base and pedals have to offer.
This is by far the best native setup I have ever experienced for use with a PS4. What's even nicer is that I can actually use the TR1 as a wheel stand as well as a cockpit with a dedicated seat if I want. Easy to pull off the seat and just slide it under my couch and use it in my living room. My couch happens to be at just the right heigh and has the right amount of space to slide it right underneath to get the perfect seat position. Can't wait to get the Podium! Anyone else looking for a relatively simple cockpit setup I would highly recommend the TR1.
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Pictures?
The problem is most people forsake rigidity for looks as they don’t like the industrial look of 80/20 but I don’t think they realise just how much more rigid it is over your standard rigs. Their version of solid and zero flex is not on the same level as 80/20 solid which really as you say makes a surprising difference.
- 426
- United States
- andrewhake
Pictures?
The problem is most people forsake rigidity for looks as they don’t like the industrial look of 80/20 but I don’t think they realise just how much more rigid it is over your standard rigs. Their version of solid and zero flex is not on the same level as 80/20 solid which really as you say makes a surprising difference.
https://sim-lab.eu/product/teamredline-tr1-chassis/
Plenty of images of it here.
I'm not really a fan of the silver 80/20 profiles but for some reason black looks great to me. Also the custom brackets sim lab makes is what really sold me as it really simplifies things and makes it that much easier to setup and customize. I absolutely love their wheel base deck and pedal box. Their new cross beam brace on this is also greatly improved compared to just using standard profiles to do this. Just as rigid but it offers way more leg room and looks fantastic. I opted to leave all all the red stripes and Team Readline branding and it looks fantastic to me.
I was planning on using a Recaro Pole Position as it's what I use in my S2000 but I am actually quite happy using it with my couch lol.
I was actually looking into some other companies cockpits, and the rigidity and customization that is possible with 80/20 stuff is just so much higher. Even looking at companies like Vesaro. They make very cool stuff but the price and customization options look ridiculous compared to what Sim Lab is offering.
- 426
- United States
- andrewhake
Here is a photo of the TR1 with everything installed.
- 5,051
- Netherlands
Here is a photo of the TR1 with everything installed.
Reminds me of the excellent Simetek k2
- 113
- United States
- WVStarship
What type of seat is being used?
- 319
I believe he is not using a seat at the moment, he just slides the rig under his sofa/couch.
- 426
- United States
- andrewhake
Yeah this is correct, actually using it as more of a fancy wheel stand so I can move it out of the way easily. I have a OEM Honda S2000 seat that I am going to work on mounting up to it though. I have to say though the convenience of just moving it around is amazing. I just have some little furniture slider pucks so I can easily slide it around on carpet when needed.
- 1,330
- US. North East region
I just started watching SimRacingGirl's video on the Podium wheel, and I paused it to say this...
@Fanatec...
DON'T PAINT THE MAGNETIC SHIFTER BLACK! It looks too good in bare metal.
That is all.
@Fanatec...
DON'T PAINT THE MAGNETIC SHIFTER BLACK! It looks too good in bare metal.
That is all.
- 220
- Germany
Im already done with step1/2, now just waiting for the button to preoder the ps4 dd
Some days ago the clubsport universal hub had arrives me, i put on the hub a nice full leather rim(ebay 40€), now waiting to mount it on the dd base
Some days ago the clubsport universal hub had arrives me, i put on the hub a nice full leather rim(ebay 40€), now waiting to mount it on the dd base
- 5,051
- Netherlands
I just started watching SimRacingGirl's video on the Podium wheel, and I paused it to say this...
@Fanatec...
DON'T PAINT THE MAGNETIC SHIFTER BLACK! It looks too good in bare metal.
That is all.
It is a prototype though, did they confirm it will be made of the same material? They could decide to use a different metal or composite. I also like the bare metal look, it would also prevent scuffs etc. to not be as pronounced when it is painted.
- 319
I just started watching SimRacingGirl's video on the Podium wheel, and I paused it to say this...
@Fanatec...
DON'T PAINT THE MAGNETIC SHIFTER BLACK! It looks too good in bare metal.
That is all.
It would look much better with carbon fiber shifter paddles instead of those aluminum ones
- 5,051
- Netherlands
Hopefully Fanatec will provide options for different tastes!
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