Fanatec Reveals Direct Drive ClubSport DD and DD+ Wheel Bases: Available to Pre-Order Now

[timekiller001]

There seem to be differences in the various batches of h/w w the CS DD(+), maybe due to the chip shortage substitutions? Some people are really suffering disconnects, other not so much or not at all. I’ve had mine for just 2 weeks so a more recent/better batch or just random luck?

Yeah I started to think the same... It's kinda weird that it's so different. And I doubt Fanatec would have released it if they found the crashes during testing after the 456 fiasco - doesn't make any sense whatsoever. And I trust their staff in the forums at least to that degree.

I also noticed a difference in my FFB. NDP was off on my old setup, but if I do that now it feels weird in corners, light and lacking FFB, while feeling like a spring that wants go to back to the center. That actually remains even after downgrading everything to 455. So now I have to have NDP set to 25-30 to have that feeling gone.

 

[RS60NR]

Been following the posts at Fanatec regarding this, and while hard to see a strong pattern seems to me like there are 3 maybe 4 ranges of situations for the base. The WQR is a separate issue and seems sorted, the base not so much

1 - bases w disconnects and other issues right from the start but helped by 457
2 - bases w issues but not helped or made worse by 457
3 - bases which worked fine on 455 or 455 w WQR from 456 and fine w 457, so no issues
4 - bases which were fine w 455 but have issues w 457

Coil whine sounds like a power supply QC or design issue and seems maybe fixed in later units? If there are power supply issues I’m also wondering if power quality is a possible cause of the disconnects and other issues? Unfortunately not easy to swap in a new one w/o an RMA or a willing friend w a good one to test

I don’t see much discussion as to whether those w disconect issues while running are using very high power demand settings or some other weird combination of settings. I wonder if people have tried very low FFB settings to see if disconnects reduce or stop. Those who are having issues regardless, this may not be what is causing those

For those in groups 3 & 4, base from 455 (2.0.1.4) and WQR from 457 (1.1.0.1) seem to be the best combo at the moment for overall feel and performance.

The base FW from 457 (2.1.0.3) seems like its been tweaked in an attempt to resolve various issues so has less feel and range. If it helps then use it, but otherwise its not optimal.

I figure there will be 1 or 2 more releases before Fanatec fully understands all the issues so if its working ok for you then run w it

This is just my observations of the reports, as I have a group 3 unit purchased recently and not able to really evaluate the other issues first hand so take as opinion not hard facts. We don’t also know anything about changes made as production proceeded from release until now so may be hw change issues as well. Its helpful to post your experience over at Fanatec along w your SN if you have not already done so

 

[scooterlord]

Hello, I know that this is the wrong channel to ask, but is there anyone from Fanatec (or knows what's going on) with our orders? Unofficially of course, but some information would be welcome. I know a lot of things going on there and that their orders are a bit delayed, but there are many users (myself included) with an order 15 days back and no response, no nothing.

Obviously I don't want to cancel my order, but current situation is a bit shady.. :/

Can anyone give any feedback? PM also works. Thank you in advance!

 

[dcmo3]

Hello, I know that this is the wrong channel to ask, but is there anyone from Fanatec (or knows what's going on) with our orders? Unofficially of course, but some information would be welcome. I know a lot of things going on there and that their orders are a bit delayed, but there are many users (myself included) with an order 15 days back and no response, no nothing.

Obviously I don't want to cancel my order, but current situation is a bit shady.. :/

Can anyone give any feedback? PM also works. Thank you in advance!

Ha, ha, ha. Wrong channel; heck, wrong site. Not even on Fanatec do they know when you're going to get it.

15 days back. As long as nothing is a pre-order, as long as you don't need a qr1, then you should be getting close to something happening; or not.

 

[scooterlord]

Ha, ha, ha. Wrong channel; heck, wrong site. Not even on Fanatec do they know when you're going to get it.

15 days back. As long as nothing is a pre-order, as long as you don't need a qr1, then you should be getting close to something happening; or not.

Well I realized as much, DD+, Clubsport RS and QR2 in the order.. the only thing that bothers me is uncertainty on the reason of the delay (and not being informed about it) rather than the delay itself. I just convinced myself for once that I would be lucky.. oh well, let’s wait some more.

I can’t believe that a Sony licensed company, with so much demand and good quality products ended up as it is.. hopefully the management stuff get sorted and they are revived again

 

[MarkusJ]

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[Morilec]

Hi everyone, I have a problem with my F1 wheel with the Podium Advanced Paddle Module, when I use it in axis mode, it doesn't work properly, sometimes the left paddle doesn't work and other times it receives a micro input and creates that problem in game which you can see in the nice video link, I was wondering if it is a known problem, if it is a problem with my hardware or a problem with the Fanatec drivers, currently on the DD+ base I am with the 455 and the steering wheel with the 456 beta.
Thanks everyone for the replies!

https://www.reddit.com/r/Fanatec/s/QAPq3KJYDH

 

[RS60NR]

@Morilec Interesting idea to use the APM clutch paddles for viewing! I run GT7 mostly in PSVR2 so hadn’t thought of that.

The FW for the F1 esports wheel is 5, same in 455, 456 & 457. I have DD+ base running base FW from 455 and WQR FW from 457. This is the best imo if you are not having disconnects or other issues

I have both the F1 V2 and the GT3 PBME both w APM so I ran some tests in GT7 and both wheels performed perfectly with the clutch set to axis mode. I did not see any micro inputs as in your video and both paddles worked as expected. Did about 30 mins between both wheels.

I would try the WQR from 457 and see if that helps, otherwise I’d say its a HW issue w the APM. Did you install the APM or did it come pre-installed? You might check the plugs where it connects inside the wheel as it could be loose or the socket is maybe coming loose from the PCB

Also if you go back to Bitepoint does the issue go away when you use the left joystick? If not then there’s maybe an issue w the wheel

 

[Morilec]

@RS60NR I find it very convenient to be able to look around without having to move my hand, it requires a bit of practice, but then it comes naturally. I'd like to play with the PSVR2 too, but my body can't handle it for more than 20 minutes.

Thank you very much for doing the tests, yesterday I also did some tests, because I think it is a driver problem, given that in the other modes it doesn't cause any problems. I downgraded to the 455 drivers, as they have that hateful joystick bug, but in 30 minutes I had no problem, then I put the 456 back and it did it twice in 10 minutes.

Today I'm trying the combination of drivers you recommended, base 455, steering wheel 456 and WQR at 457.

 

[RS60NR]

@RS60NR I find it very convenient to be able to look around without having to move my hand, it requires a bit of practice, but then it comes naturally. I'd like to play with the PSVR2 too, but my body can't handle it for more than 20 minutes.

Thank you very much for doing the tests, yesterday I also did some tests, because I think it is a driver problem, given that in the other modes it doesn't cause any problems. I downgraded to the 455 drivers, as they have that hateful joystick bug, but in 30 minutes I had no problem, then I put the 456 back and it did it twice in 10 minutes.

Today I'm trying the combination of drivers you recommended, base 455, steering wheel 456 and WQR at 457.

Hopefully that will sort it. You mention modes - you mean the ACP settings for the analog paddles correct? you might not be seeing the same behavior in other modes in GT7 as the game may treat those differently. You might look at the pedal calibration under options/controller settings - there you see graphs showing the values. So if set to clutch both paddles are mapped together - that may mask it, but setting to brake/throttle will show both independently so if there is an issue with the APM analog HW it might show up there

Also do you see it when connected to PC in the Driver control panel wheel section in the various ACP modes?

 

[Morilec]

Hopefully that will sort it. You mention modes - you mean the ACP settings for the analog paddles correct? you might not be seeing the same behavior in other modes in GT7 as the game may treat those differently. You might look at the pedal calibration under options/controller settings - there you see graphs showing the values. So if set to clutch both paddles are mapped together - that may mask it, but setting to brake/throttle will show both independently so if there is an issue with the APM analog HW it might show up there

Also do you see it when connected to PC in the Driver control panel wheel section in the various ACP modes?

Unfortunately it didn't solve the problem, but the frequency seems to have decreased, yesterday in an hour of play it only happened 3/4 times.
Today I try to use the brake and accelerator mode, because I used the other modes, but I didn't pay attention to which mode I used, although it is a little more difficult to understand with that mode, because if it gives acceptance input while I accelerated, I can't notice it. I could see it in the settings or in the graph on the PC, but the problem is that it does it randomly, so I would have to spend several minutes looking at a screen hoping that something would happen.l

But I'm starting to think it's a hardware problem, today I would like to try using the 455 again, maybe it's like the 457 and it does it a few times and I haven't noticed. Also because if it was a driver flaw, I think someone else must have encountered it too.

 

[RS60NR]

But I'm starting to think it's a hardware problem, today I would like to try using the 455 again, maybe it's like the 457 and it does it a few times and I haven't noticed. Also because if it was a driver flaw, I think someone else must have encountered it too.

this from the Fanatec APM web page “Contactless Hall sensors with unlimited lifetime mean that your dual analogue paddles will function with precision and consistency”

So if the issue is coming from the paddle HW, it could be the sensors are loose, misaligned, dirty even, or the small sensor is deffective. If your wheel is under warranty you should open a support ticket - it will take a while but they should investigate it.

Otherwise I would suggest that you download the APM manual from the Fanatec site and uninstall and reinstall them at least - this sometimes will cure odd issues if connections are dirty or not tight. Look for any damage to the cables from improper assembly. Its not too difficult - I added mine to my earlier F1 V2 wheel w/o any problems

 

[Morilec]

this from the Fanatec APM web page “Contactless Hall sensors with unlimited lifetime mean that your dual analogue paddles will function with precision and consistency”

So if the issue is coming from the paddle HW, it could be the sensors are loose, misaligned, dirty even, or the small sensor is deffective. If your wheel is under warranty you should open a support ticket - it will take a while but they should investigate it.

Otherwise I would suggest that you download the APM manual from the Fanatec site and uninstall and reinstall them at least - this sometimes will cure odd issues if connections are dirty or not tight. Look for any damage to the cables from improper assembly. Its not too difficult - I added mine to my earlier F1 V2 wheel w/o any problems

Done other tests, I played for an hour with the 455 Drivers, no problem, after putting the 456 back on, the problem is back, I can officially remove the hardware defect option. To be sure, I also checked the connections, but everything is ok.

Now I don't understand, it's 100% a driver problem, but why is it only me? Is it just a problem with the F1 wheel of the DD+ bundle? I just can't understand

I still have the possibility to return it, I've only had it for 7 days, maybe it's better to go back and buy it again, rather than having to wait for assistance which will take too long.

 

[RS60NR]

To be clear the term “Driver” refers to the windows interface and configuration panel. The Firmware which comes with each driver package version is for each of 2 parts: 1 for the base and 1 for the WQR (Wheel or wireless quick release). The wheels each have their own as do some of the pedals.

So each time you switch driver installs on the PC, it would normally prompt to update to the corresponding firmware IF its new, but not if lower, so hopefully you are refering to the firmware associated w each driver package correct? Some people have changed the PC driver but not upgraded/downgraded the firmware and ended up confused - don’t think that’s you but just checking.

You don’t have to have both the same Base and WQR from a particular package. You can manage them separately. You open the FIrmware manager and manually pick one to upgrade or downgrade. Note you cannot go directly from 457 to 455 you have to go to 456 first. Going from a later to earlier package does not auto downgrade the firmware to match BTW - that has to be manually selelcted

The base firmware from 455 or 457 are both considered stable. 455 is better IMO as the feedback is a bit nicer - on 457 its a bit weaker and less detailed.

Base from 456 is considered bad - you should not run that one. There is a patched base hotfix which is between 456 and 457 that address some symptoms

The WQR from 455 has some issues for some people, others not. WQR from 456 is considered ok/better but WQR from 457 is what I’m running and is solid as well. So I’m running based from 455 2.0.1.4 and WQR from 457 1.1.0.1

To do that I had to install each driver package, run the firmware installer manually and select the specific FW, then uninstall the package, and repeat until done. I recommend uninstall and reboot each time before installing just to be more certain of a clean install

Sorry for the long explanation but since your issues are a bit unusual just wanted to be very clear on the procedures

If its in stock and you can easily return might be the easiest

 

[Morilec]

To be clear the term “Driver” refers to the windows interface and configuration panel. The Firmware which comes with each driver package version is for each of 2 parts: 1 for the base and 1 for the WQR (Wheel or wireless quick release). The wheels each have their own as do some of the pedals.

So each time you switch driver installs on the PC, it would normally prompt to update to the corresponding firmware IF its new, but not if lower, so hopefully you are refering to the firmware associated w each driver package correct? Some people have changed the PC driver but not upgraded/downgraded the firmware and ended up confused - don’t think that’s you but just checking.

You don’t have to have both the same Base and WQR from a particular package. You can manage them separately. You open the FIrmware manager and manually pick one to upgrade or downgrade. Note you cannot go directly from 457 to 455 you have to go to 456 first. Going from a later to earlier package does not auto downgrade the firmware to match BTW - that has to be manually selelcted

The base firmware from 455 or 457 are both considered stable. 455 is better IMO as the feedback is a bit nicer - on 457 its a bit weaker and less detailed.

Base from 456 is considered bad - you should not run that one. There is a patched base hotfix which is between 456 and 457 that address some symptoms

The WQR from 455 has some issues for some people, others not. WQR from 456 is considered ok/better but WQR from 457 is what I’m running and is solid as well. So I’m running based from 455 2.0.1.4 and WQR from 457 1.1.0.1

To do that I had to install each driver package, run the firmware installer manually and select the specific FW, then uninstall the package, and repeat until done. I recommend uninstall and reboot each time before installing just to be more certain of a clean install

Sorry for the long explanation but since your issues are a bit unusual just wanted to be very clear on the procedures

If its in stock and you can easily return might be the easiest

Thank you very much for the in-depth explanation, but I have always done what you say, I have always kept the base at 455, manually updating only the WQR and the steering wheel, the only thing I did differently is that when I tried the 457 for the WQR I didn't go through the 456, but I went from 455 directly to the 457, same thing when I did the downgrade, directly from the 457 to the 455. Today I'll try going through the 456, if it doesn't work, I contact Fanatec and I'll return everything , to buy again.

 

[Morilec]

So, I tried and things got worse...



UPDATE
Ok, I also posted the video on reddit, Maurice, the Fanatec tester, replied to me, telling me that there is a known problem with the firmware, but a fix is not currently in the works, excellent .-. Very comical since I bought the APM mainly to use it in that mode

 

[RS60NR]

@Morilec The message does not indicate which FW is the issue - base, WQR or wheel.

This is so odd so is it something specific to the V2.5 or V2.5X? I have V2 with FW 46 which is same for V2 and V2.5 as of 455 and earlier and I don’t have your issue, so I’d think its not the base or WQR FW. Did you update wheel to 47 or 1.0.2 from 457? Did you try w 46? All I can think of sorry

 

[Morilec]

@Morilec The message does not indicate which FW is the issue - base, WQR or wheel.

This is so odd so is it something specific to the V2.5 or V2.5X? I have V2 with FW 46 which is same for V2 and V2.5 as of 455 and earlier and I don’t have your issue, so I’d think its not the base or WQR FW. Did you update wheel to 47 or 1.0.2 from 457? Did you try w 46? All I can think of sorry

I have no idea, I wrote to him on Reddit, asking for more information.

I tried the FW 456, but nothing.

 

[Morilec]

Today I played for the first time after the update, but the FBB is dead?! Putting it at 10 in game and at 100% on my DD+, I feel nothing, and everything is soft, I no longer feel the strength in the response I had before and I'm driving badly, having that strength helped me.

 

[Kriptical]

Im doing ffb 9 and sensi 6 in game with ndp: 20, int 1 nfr/nin: off rest at 100 and things are pretty great. Excluding some oscillation. Waiting on the patch to fix rocket cars to land before working too much on the oscillation problem

Anyway! There is good weight and feedback with the wheel when you stabilize the car before corner entry. Which is realistic. Foibles aside. The update is actually pretty great for our wheel once you figure it out. Which isn’t too bad because it now more closely resembles actual driving.

 

[RS60NR]

Im doing ffb 9 and sensi 6 in game with ndp: 20, int 1 nfr/nin: off rest at 100 and things are pretty great. Excluding some oscillation. Waiting on the patch to fix rocket cars to land before working too much on the oscillation problem

Anyway! There is good weight and feedback with the wheel when you stabilize the car before corner entry. Which is realistic. Foibles aside. The update is actually pretty great for our wheel once you figure it out. Which isn’t too bad because it now more closely resembles actual driving.

For the rockets, just lower FOR (not FFB), keep the rest the same 50-70 varies by car, kills most of the shakes above 200 mph but steering still strong. Not for the others tho

 

[Kriptical]

For the rockets, just lower FOR (not FFB), keep the rest the same 50-70 varies by car, kills most of the shakes above 200 mph but steering still strong. Not for the others tho

Nice. Thats a good stopgap for when you get a really annoying one.

 

[super_gt]

QR1 Adapter for Club Sport DD

We have made this product which was promised by Fanatec when they launched the CSW DD wheelbases but still have not delivered. So by popular demand we have made out own version. Fanatec products was names Type F - as far as we can tell this replicates that. Designed to allow you to replace the...

simracingmachines.com

 

[rsspyder21]

QR1 Adapter for Club Sport DD

We have made this product which was promised by Fanatec when they launched the CSW DD wheelbases but still have not delivered. So by popular demand we have made out own version. Fanatec products was names Type F - as far as we can tell this replicates that. Designed to allow you to replace the...

simracingmachines.com

This is of no consequence but I wonder how much demand there is for this? The QR2 is such a big improvement, I can't imagine wanting to downgrade back to QR1 just to save a couple hundred bucks on having to buy QR2s for my wheels. I guess I understand if someone has a lot of wheels (more than two or three) and doesn't want to upgrade them all to QR2 at $100 a pop.

 

[Jezza819]

What's the difference between QR1 and QR2? The rim comes off and on easier?

 

[RS60NR]

What's the difference between QR1 and QR2? The rim comes off and on easier?

It does remove easier, but the main difference is the way the mount engages. The QR2 has a more rigid connection where the QR1 can rotate slightly left/right unless the capture screw is used to hold it firmly. The keyway slot on the QR1 and the tab on the wheel side have pretty wide tolerances so some wheels are looser than others

While I was never really irked by QR1 sloppiness, after going to QR2 I felt it was a big improvement both in ease of use and rigidity

 

[Jezza819]

It does remove easier, but the main difference is the way the mount engages. The QR2 has a more rigid connection where the QR1 can rotate slightly left/right unless the capture screw is used to hold it firmly. The keyway slot on the QR1 and the tab on the wheel side have pretty wide tolerances so some wheels are looser than others

While I was never really irked by QR1 sloppiness, after going to QR2 I felt it was a big improvement both in ease of use and rigidity

Thanks for the explanation. I figured it had to be something more than just easier on and off. Did you feel a difference in driving?

 

[RS60NR]

Thanks for the explanation. I figured it had to be something more than just easier on and off. Did you feel a difference in driving?

Some but minor. Two of my wheels had decent tolerances so the amount of movement was limited. Other people reported worse with some wheels and were using tape or even aluminum can metal to shim it.

Not having to use the screw to lock it down is a big convenience - the QR2 just snaps on and is totally solid

 

[Jezza819]

Some but minor. Two of my wheels had decent tolerances so the amount of movement was limited. Other people reported worse with some wheels and were using tape or even aluminum can metal to shim it.

Not having to use the screw to lock it down is a big convenience - the QR2 just snaps on and is totally solid

I use the Formula V2 almost exclusively now and I can't really feel anything is moving around or slipping. But at least the QR2 option is out there.

 

[timekiller001]

Thanks for the explanation. I figured it had to be something more than just easier on and off. Did you feel a difference in driving?

There shouldn't be much of a difference in driving, if your QR1 is fitting properly. As mentioned, the tolerances of the QR1 were quite big so some were quite snug whereas others were rather loose and needed the additional screw to prevent it from slipping.
Since the QR2 is not round but more of a square, that movement is not really possible anymore.

That said, for someone new to the ecosystem or only having one wheel, going back to QR1 baseside won't make any sense, but it will be relevant for those having a rather big collection of wheels using the QR1.