Fantec Wheel - optimized settings for Shift 2! (VIDEO)
- Thread starter Raudi
- 81 comments
- 30,067 views
- 86
- WWR-Basher
- WWR Basher
Thanks for posting these settings Raudi.
Just a point for everyone to consider:
Remember to adjust the STEERING LOCK setting for each car as you tune, this makes a huge difference to how each car individually drives and handles in both straight lines and corners.
A good example is the Caterham R500 Superlight, Raudi's settings are very good, but if you change the TUNING steering lock default setting up to approx 30 -40 the steering becomes alive as it would in this type of vehicle.
Just thought I'd share the finding as I'd been really struggling in that car and its now finally doing 1.35's at Donnington GP.
Tyre pressures also make a difference to the steering feel.
I was very quick to blame my wheel or in game settings when things didn't feel right, but drop the pressures, the games defaults are way to high. Get the telemetry screen up (D PAD) and in tuning mode run some laps and check out the temperature and optimal % figures shown.
On the Caterham I am running the Fronts on 11 and Rears on 8 to ensure they are at the correct temperature and operating at peak pressure. The games default pressures are much higher and if you run the car on these the grip loss is huge.
Once again thanks to Raudi, the game would have been returned or launched through the window if I hadn't found your post mate!
One last thing, and this is extremely important!
PATCH NOTE: v1.01
*MAKE SURE YOU RESET ALL YOUR WHEEL SETTINGS AFTER THE PATCH HAS BEEN INSTALLED* > Adjust Controls ( Triangle button) to Reset. FFB fixes do not take effect in'till after you have reset your saved controls.
Changes I have noticed after the patch:
On/off FFB sensation simulating loss of grip in a turn has been fixed and replaced with a more progressive sensation.
Unusually heavy wheel weight during the start of a Race or Drift session before a restart bug has been fixed.
A steering FFB "buffer" seems to have been implemented at the wheels center in a way that allows the car to be more controllable in a strait line or in catching a slide. In other words when crossing over the wheels center left to right the FFB motors now progressively increase instead of coming on hard and bouncing the wheel left and right over its center.
While free spinning the wheel in an attempt to save a slide or conduct a drift the "chattering feeling/noise" has been fixed. IN other words the wheel now spins unobstructed while making hard multiple rotational countersteers.
Just a point for everyone to consider:
Remember to adjust the STEERING LOCK setting for each car as you tune, this makes a huge difference to how each car individually drives and handles in both straight lines and corners.
A good example is the Caterham R500 Superlight, Raudi's settings are very good, but if you change the TUNING steering lock default setting up to approx 30 -40 the steering becomes alive as it would in this type of vehicle.
Just thought I'd share the finding as I'd been really struggling in that car and its now finally doing 1.35's at Donnington GP.
Tyre pressures also make a difference to the steering feel.
I was very quick to blame my wheel or in game settings when things didn't feel right, but drop the pressures, the games defaults are way to high. Get the telemetry screen up (D PAD) and in tuning mode run some laps and check out the temperature and optimal % figures shown.
On the Caterham I am running the Fronts on 11 and Rears on 8 to ensure they are at the correct temperature and operating at peak pressure. The games default pressures are much higher and if you run the car on these the grip loss is huge.
Once again thanks to Raudi, the game would have been returned or launched through the window if I hadn't found your post mate!
One last thing, and this is extremely important!
PATCH NOTE: v1.01
*MAKE SURE YOU RESET ALL YOUR WHEEL SETTINGS AFTER THE PATCH HAS BEEN INSTALLED* > Adjust Controls ( Triangle button) to Reset. FFB fixes do not take effect in'till after you have reset your saved controls.
Changes I have noticed after the patch:
On/off FFB sensation simulating loss of grip in a turn has been fixed and replaced with a more progressive sensation.
Unusually heavy wheel weight during the start of a Race or Drift session before a restart bug has been fixed.
A steering FFB "buffer" seems to have been implemented at the wheels center in a way that allows the car to be more controllable in a strait line or in catching a slide. In other words when crossing over the wheels center left to right the FFB motors now progressively increase instead of coming on hard and bouncing the wheel left and right over its center.
While free spinning the wheel in an attempt to save a slide or conduct a drift the "chattering feeling/noise" has been fixed. IN other words the wheel now spins unobstructed while making hard multiple rotational countersteers.
Last edited:
I have an easier way.
1) Boot up your Xbox using the switch button (directly on the console).
2) Boot up your wheel.
3) Set sen to 900
4) Go to xbox mode
5) Start the game
6) Burn the road
This hasn't been post.
But these are is the settings used by InsideSimracing on Fanatec Gt2/ Xbox 360 in their Video review of Shift2
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcAd42Wb1ig).
wheel settings:
Sen 900
FF 100
Sho 100
Dri 2
Lin 0
Dead 0
Spr -3
Dpr -3
I haven't tried these settings yet.... are they reliable ? I doubt because I thought Spr & Dpr make no change on xbox. ...
- 156
ISR's settings were the first that I tried and the only customizations that I liked was their recommended Throttle sensitivity @20%.
They didn't use any speed sensitivity or deadzone on the wheel which causes way too much sway for me and I preferred a tighter steering lock of 360 degrees.
As another poster suggested - tuning by lowering tire pressures and increasing the steering lock on individual cars also helps!
They didn't use any speed sensitivity or deadzone on the wheel which causes way too much sway for me and I preferred a tighter steering lock of 360 degrees.
As another poster suggested - tuning by lowering tire pressures and increasing the steering lock on individual cars also helps!
- 156
Absolutely! Fanatec 6H shifter and clutch are supported in Shift 2 for XBOX (worked in Shift 1 as well)
- 146
- Spain
- TechnobearRacing
- TheTechnobear
It's shows up as ms wheel, but clutch and shifter are recognized.
Just make sure you have you wheel > 270 deg ( i use 450 these days) ,
Also do not turn on xbox, then turn wheel on (standard practice for fanatec).
Also ffb has a habit of not initializing correctly, so as each race starts, I pause, then hit restart once, then it's fine - not sure if this is fixed in 1.01
You will have to play with the settings to get something you like, many suggestions here for you to try. But get used to it, and it's great.
if you can't get it right, describe what you feel is wrong ... Probably more useful than just saying crap
Just make sure you have you wheel > 270 deg ( i use 450 these days) ,
Also do not turn on xbox, then turn wheel on (standard practice for fanatec).
Also ffb has a habit of not initializing correctly, so as each race starts, I pause, then hit restart once, then it's fine - not sure if this is fixed in 1.01
You will have to play with the settings to get something you like, many suggestions here for you to try. But get used to it, and it's great.
if you can't get it right, describe what you feel is wrong ... Probably more useful than just saying crap
- 8,230
- Drayton Bassett, North Warwickshire
- Duffers999
- Clark Duffy
Well let's just say it doesn't feel anywhere in the same league as Rf or iracing. I've got it working better now but the car is wandering like mad in the straights, so much so that I keep crashing the GT40 at Monza.
I have an easier way.
1) Boot up your Xbox using the switch button (directly on the console).
2) Boot up your wheel.
3) Set sen to 900
4) Go to xbox mode
5) Start the game
6) Burn the road
This hasn't been post.
But these are is the settings used by InsideSimracing on Fanatec Gt2/ Xbox 360 in their Video review of Shift2
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcAd42Wb1ig).
wheel settings:
Sen 900
FF 100
Sho 100
Dri 2
Lin 0
Dead 0
Spr -3
Dpr -3
I haven't tried these settings yet.... are they reliable ? I doubt because I thought Spr & Dpr make no change on xbox. ...
Its the same thing that i posted again basically there is a bug if you start the game with the wheel booted up as fanatec suggests it doesnt recognize the 900 % you posted the same thing that i just posted.
If anyone is still trying configurations, I finally got mine dialed in after a couple days of testing. I'm finally able to enjoy the game without constantly thinking about the controls. I'm playing the PC version with a GT3RSV2.
Wheel:
SEn: 900
FF: 70
Sho: 0 (personal preference, no real impact on control)
dri: 2
Lin: 0
dEA: 0
SPr: 0
dPr: -2
In-game:
FF Strength: 100%
All deadzones: 0%
Steering Sensitivity: 100%
Throttle Sens: 20%
Brake Sens: 30%
All Speed Sensitivities and Steering Locks: 50%.
On Elite with Hard difficulty, I can finally win almost any circuit with smooth driving, where before I would fall behind before the second turn and it would be over. I also use minimod, so no more floaty car feeling also has a lot to do with it.
Wheel:
SEn: 900
FF: 70
Sho: 0 (personal preference, no real impact on control)
dri: 2
Lin: 0
dEA: 0
SPr: 0
dPr: -2
In-game:
FF Strength: 100%
All deadzones: 0%
Steering Sensitivity: 100%
Throttle Sens: 20%
Brake Sens: 30%
All Speed Sensitivities and Steering Locks: 50%.
On Elite with Hard difficulty, I can finally win almost any circuit with smooth driving, where before I would fall behind before the second turn and it would be over. I also use minimod, so no more floaty car feeling also has a lot to do with it.
- 5
- hovadagixxer
- hovdagixxer
Please help me; I am a fanatec ptws owner running Raudi settings I just purchased the Gumpert Apollo without works convers. and can't find a tune for the car that works. Reown Tuning has a tune for this car but it isn't working so good with my current wheel/in-game settings. Please help me.
- 47
Hi,
I've been trying out NFS Shift 2 with my Fanatec Turbo S wheel and ClubSport pedals this afternoon and with then help of the settings in the this post enjoyed some good racing.
This is the first time that I have connected the Fanatec wheel and pedals to my PC, and I currently have the pedals connected to the wheel with the PS2 cable and the wheel connected to the PC with a USB cable.
Is there any benefit in running separate USB cables from the wheel and clubsport pedals to my PC as discussed in the Fanatec user manual?
Thanks
James
I've been trying out NFS Shift 2 with my Fanatec Turbo S wheel and ClubSport pedals this afternoon and with then help of the settings in the this post enjoyed some good racing.
This is the first time that I have connected the Fanatec wheel and pedals to my PC, and I currently have the pedals connected to the wheel with the PS2 cable and the wheel connected to the PC with a USB cable.
Is there any benefit in running separate USB cables from the wheel and clubsport pedals to my PC as discussed in the Fanatec user manual?
Thanks
James
- 10,403
- GTP_Spag69
- spagetti69
James I think running the pedals straight to PC gives a higher resolution mate.
Not sure though.
Not sure though.
- 47
Hi Spagetti69,
Thank you for your advice, that matches the feedback on another forum, so I'll order 2 new USB cables and see if I can tell the difference.
James
- 10,403
- GTP_Spag69
- spagetti69
It's some where around 200 odd if conected to a wheel compared with a 1000 if run straight to PC.
Good luck telling the difference lol. Although there must be a benifit.
Good luck telling the difference lol. Although there must be a benifit.
Hi, Im new here and new to this game. I have the GT2 wheel and im having problems getting into the control options with the wheel. My RT button on the wheel doesnt respond and the tab wont slide over to controls. Ive searched all over and cant find a solution. Im pretty sure its something dumb that im missing, can you help?
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