Fastest XP/Credit Farming Setup

Ugh silly move pd to.make a whole event have a 15mil price of entry

I feel that's the norm for a lot of classes... eg. the W08 races, you need $2 mil.

The JGTC races you need an $800,000 Group 2 car. Granted these are easier to come by on the wheel of fortune.

They really should move to a system like Forza where you can just rent a car and then you get half winnings or whatever.
 
SETUP FOR CREDIT GRINDING

1. Open My Menu (top left corner) > Options > Controllers > Vibration Function > Select OFF.

2. Go to Arcade > Custom Race > Blue Moon Speedway > Blue Moon Speedway > Morning 8:30am > Garage Cars > McLaren F1 '94 > Automatic (AT)

3. In the Custom Race menu select the following:

RACE SETTINGS
Race Type: Endurance
Time Limit: User Choice
Starting Grid: 20
Boost: Off

OPPONENT SETTINGS
Opponent Catergory: Gr.3
Opponent Difficulty: Professional

Then select START RACE.

CONTROLLER SETUP
I like to use a pair of old laces with cord clamps, like those on hoodies and jogging/sportswear, attached to the DS4. One is placed around the right joystick and under the R2 shoulder button to hold the joystick forward.

The other lace/cord is placed around the left joystick and the right side of the DS4 (see photo). Light pressure is used on the left stick to maintain a slight right turn so the car rides the wall around the track.

Go to cockpit view so you get to see how much turn is needed by looking at the drivers left hand on the steering wheel.

Monitor the race for several laps to ensure that the car is running smoothly, and lapping between 48.2 to 48.4. A word of caution, as the car comes out of turn 1 be careful that it doesn't stray to far out towards the first set of white lines out from the wall, as at some point during the race the car will collide with another and spin. So make sure that it only strays out to roughly the centre of the lane.
 

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N100 up against a Gr.1 car is the best way, than taking risks with a McLaren F1 '94 in a 20 car field when rubber banding.
 
SETUP FOR CREDIT GRINDING

1. Open My Menu (top left corner) > Options > Controllers > Vibration Function > Select OFF.

2. Go to Arcade > Custom Race > Blue Moon Speedway > Blue Moon Speedway > Morning 8:30am > Garage Cars > McLaren F1 '94 > Automatic (AT)

3. In the Custom Race menu select the following:

RACE SETTINGS
Race Type: Endurance
Time Limit: User Choice
Starting Grid: 20
Boost: Off

OPPONENT SETTINGS
Opponent Catergory: Gr.3
Opponent Difficulty: Professional

Then select START RACE.

CONTROLLER SETUP
I like to use a pair of old laces with cord clamps, like those on hoodies and jogging/sportswear, attached to the DS4. One is placed around the right joystick and under the R2 shoulder button to hold the joystick forward.

The other lace/cord is placed around the left joystick and the right side of the DS4 (see photo). Light pressure is used on the left stick to maintain a slight right turn so the car rides the wall around the track.

Go to cockpit view so you get to see how much turn is needed by looking at the drivers left hand on the steering wheel.

Monitor the race for several laps to ensure that the car is running smoothly, and lapping between 48.2 to 48.4. A word of caution, as the car comes out of turn 1 be careful that it doesn't stray to far out towards the first set of white lines out from the wall, as at some point during the race the car will collide with another and spin. So make sure that it only strays out to roughly the centre of the lane.

While you are setting the controller options turning off the vibration, also set it to Motion Steering. Now just prop up the left side of the controller with something - like the GT Sport game case - to set the desired of amount of turn. This way you only need to "rubber band" the throttle.
 
I'm not a fast driver simply a girl having fun with old cars!








It's great to see that GT appeals to both sexes. I used to use bumper cam but switched to roof cam (not the view where you are standing on the hood of the car behind you and you can see your entire car) just because of Sarthe, it seems like the track is always falling away from you and you cannot see the road ahead. Besides being easier to see the track ahead it is also easier to see where you are exceeding track limits which is so easy at Sarthe.
 
It's great to see that GT appeals to both sexes. I used to use bumper cam but switched to roof cam (not the view where you are standing on the hood of the car behind you and you can see your entire car) just because of Sarthe, it seems like the track is always falling away from you and you cannot see the road ahead. Besides being easier to see the track ahead it is also easier to see where you are exceeding track limits which is so easy at Sarthe.
I found that Roof Cam. my times are quicker than any other view :).
 
I found that Roof Cam. my times are quicker than any other view :).

Yeah I think the view of being higher in the car helps to see the apex better and when you get behind someone in bumper cam your vision is really blocked. Plus like at mentioned earlier at Sarthe it seems like the road in front of you is always falling away slightly so that you cant see the racing line very well. Like everyone else I prefer to have the rear view mirror bumper cam offers but roof cam is advantageous enough that I can live without it.
 
Rubber banding for credits. If you want to do Grinding overnight for 7 hours, with the McLaren F1 '94 N800 up against Gr.4 cars at the Blue Moon Speedway, you only get this amount of credits for coming 1st.
My Great Capture Screenshot 2018-09-10 10-58-03.png

If you use a N100 car up against a Gr.1 car at the Blue Moon Speedway for 7 hours, you only get this amount of credits for coming second in this picture below.
My Great Capture Screenshot 2018-09-10 10-59-59.png

So I always go for the N100 car up against a Gr.1 car, because you will get more credits and it is a lot safe to race against one car, than with 19 other cars.
 
So awhile back I put together a tune and shared it on here to help people gain credits and xp as fast as possible. While the 15 lap Blue Moon Race in GT League’s Professional Series is still the fastest method, I recently revamped my setup and I’m here to share it with you guys.

The setup does not necessarily require the use of CSA or TC but I would highly recommend throwing CSA on Strong just so you can relax and drive. If you find that you’re sliding a little more than you would like, go ahead and throw the TC on 5... 0 straight to 5 seems like a drastic jump but trust me 5 TC with this car goes almost unnoticed. It stabilizes the car significantly but you have little to no loss in speed. I was 1 second slower with TC 5 in a 15 lap race.

N300 = 375,000 Credits and 8,250 XP

11:30.796 (Personal Best)


View attachment 733430

FRONT TIRES = RACING HARD!!!
Ride Height = Max


View attachment 733431

Transmission Steps As Follows
1. Reset to Standard and Back to Custom
2. Final Gear 3.500
3. Top Speed 124mph/200kph (Lowest)
4. Final Gear 2.500
5. Match the Ratios in the Images Below


View attachment 733432 View attachment 733433

Enjoy!




Sorry for the stupid question
How do I setup CSA?
TC I know is Traction Control
 
Sorry for the stupid question
How do I setup CSA?
TC I know is Traction Control

Under driving assists where you find on/off for cones, driving line, AT/MT transmission etc. On your race entry screen the symbol is like a round star thing at bottom of screen, should be 1 click right of car set up menu
 
So awhile back I put together a tune and shared it on here to help people gain credits and xp as fast as possible. While the 15 lap Blue Moon Race in GT League’s Professional Series is still the fastest method, I recently revamped my setup and I’m here to share it with you guys.

The setup does not necessarily require the use of CSA or TC but I would highly recommend throwing CSA on Strong just so you can relax and drive. If you find that you’re sliding a little more than you would like, go ahead and throw the TC on 5... 0 straight to 5 seems like a drastic jump but trust me 5 TC with this car goes almost unnoticed. It stabilizes the car significantly but you have little to no loss in speed. I was 1 second slower with TC 5 in a 15 lap race.

N300 = 375,000 Credits and 8,250 XP

11:30.796 (Personal Best)


View attachment 733430

FRONT TIRES = RACING HARD!!!
Ride Height = Max


View attachment 733431

Transmission Steps As Follows
1. Reset to Standard and Back to Custom
2. Final Gear 3.500
3. Top Speed 124mph/200kph (Lowest)
4. Final Gear 2.500
5. Match the Ratios in the Images Below


View attachment 733432 View attachment 733433

Enjoy!




Thanks so much for this tune man!! I'm new to GT Sport (been playing for about a month now) and I'd like to understand a bit more about the tuning. Can I ask a few questions for those who understand this kinda thing?

1. Why does this tune work so well with the ride height set to MAX? My understanding was that in almost every situation , every car handles best with the F & R ride height set to MIN. Can you explain why on this car for this track, we maximise it?

2. Why the HARD tyres? My understanding is that in almost every situation soft tyres = better handling and the only tradeoff was longevity, therefore in a race without tyre wear, use the softest available. Not so? I realise there must be a reason for why you recommend using hard tyres here. What is it?!

3. With the transmission steps, why do we have to set the final gear twice? Like why set it to 3.500, and then set it again to 2.500? Why not just set it to 2.500 from the get go?

Thanks for any answers!! Will really help me to understand how it all works!!
 
Thanks so much for this tune man!! I'm new to GT Sport (been playing for about a month now) and I'd like to understand a bit more about the tuning. Can I ask a few questions for those who understand this kinda thing?

1. Why does this tune work so well with the ride height set to MAX? My understanding was that in almost every situation , every car handles best with the F & R ride height set to MIN. Can you explain why on this car for this track, we maximise it?

2. Why the HARD tyres? My understanding is that in almost every situation soft tyres = better handling and the only tradeoff was longevity, therefore in a race without tyre wear, use the softest available. Not so? I realise there must be a reason for why you recommend using hard tyres here. What is it?!

3. With the transmission steps, why do we have to set the final gear twice? Like why set it to 3.500, and then set it again to 2.500? Why not just set it to 2.500 from the get go?

Thanks for any answers!! Will really help me to understand how it all works!!

1. It's a game. Things that work here might not always make sense in real life. My guess is The XBOW is pretty softly sprung to generate lateral grip, but due to the high cornering forces (slicks + banked track) you need high ride height to avoid bottoming out and losing grip.

2. Hard tyres at the front only. Soft tyres at the back. Helps with oversteer. Because PD doesn't take into account rear tyres are wider in this game and provide more grip, given the same compounds.

3. He's doing the "tranny trick". Again it's an in game trick to get the ratios closer together (otherwise you can't get the numbers exactly like he did just by setting the Final drive once). In real life, you just ask the factory to produce the exact ratio you need. In PD world, you only have a limited range of ratios to choose from, unless you do this "trick". Has been like this since GT2 ;)

Hope that makes sense.
 
1. It's a game. Things that work here might not always make sense in real life. My guess is The XBOW is pretty softly sprung to generate lateral grip, but due to the high cornering forces (slicks + banked track) you need high ride height to avoid bottoming out and losing grip.

2. Hard tyres at the front only. Soft tyres at the back. Helps with oversteer. Because PD doesn't take into account rear tyres are wider in this game and provide more grip, given the same compounds.

3. He's doing the "tranny trick". Again it's an in game trick to get the ratios closer together (otherwise you can't get the numbers exactly like he did just by setting the Final drive once). In real life, you just ask the factory to produce the exact ratio you need. In PD world, you only have a limited range of ratios to choose from, unless you do this "trick". Has been like this since GT2 ;)

Hope that makes sense.

I run my Xbow at about the middle of the ride height scale to keep it from bottoming out in T1, I have run a best of 46.5 in N300 trim drafting and can run 47.1 by myself, this is on the new tire model.
Update:
Best laps are now 46.5 without drafting and 45.8 drafting.
 
Last edited:
So turns out you can use the Mazda RX500 as a replacement for XBow.

- Also A N300 car (Tune it up)
- Far more stable than XBow thus easier to grind with.
- Only less than 1 second slower than N400 Ferrari F40.


Gran Turismo®SPORT_20181021214000.jpg

Gran Turismo®SPORT_20181021032031.jpg

Gran Turismo®SPORT_20181021032036.jpg

Gran Turismo®SPORT_20181021032048.jpg
 
So turns out you can use the Mazda RX500 as a replacement for XBow.

- Also A N300 car (Tune it up)
- Far more stable than XBow thus easier to grind with.
- Only less than 1 second slower than N400 Ferrari F40.


View attachment 775280
View attachment 775278
View attachment 775279
View attachment 775281


Yeah the Mazda drives pretty nice, I did not try it against the LaFerrari yet but I can usually grab first place by lap 10 or 11, I also have not really tuned the suspension yet either so there is more time to be found. The car has surprisingly good speed, it will pass many AI cars on the straights easier than the N300 Xbow.
 
Meh, i quitted doing BMB. Doing F1 Merc races in Fuji with clean bonus have been giving me a minute or 2 more time but more exciting and helpful(360k). Also Gr.1 Cups with upgraded cars + clean bonus can net you 330k credits.

Yeah a couple weeks ago I worked at all of the F1 races getting clean race bonuses along with the wins and then PD "fixed" the W08, I wish they had left it alone, it was more fun to drive before the "fix". Getting clean race bonuses in F1 races is challenging, I think the AI tries to hit your car.
 
Meh, i quitted doing BMB. Doing F1 Merc races in Fuji with clean bonus have been giving me a minute or 2 more time but more exciting and helpful(360k). Also Gr.1 Cups with upgraded cars + clean bonus can net you 330k credits.

Sounds good. I don't know why PD makes it so that the credit farming race is the most boring one.
 
This just makes a mockery of players when a game is best played by leaving your console on all night/day just to get a few toys. Embarrassing really.

(Especially that one that's trying to convince the world things are reasonable elsewhere that this isn't needed to be done if you wish to have access to more of your game).

They really need to address this daftness in gaming.
 
is there still a way of making credits while you sleep by putting a rubber band on a DS4? I read something about that somewhere.....

Or has that been patched out of the game now?
 
No. This doesn't work anymore. I tried the other day putting a 10 hour endurance event on whilst asleep. I got mileage and xp but no credits. I suppose people doing this were potentially eating into pds earnings from buying credits on the store.
The blue moon bore is the only way to grind credits now.
 
If you do N300 at BMB a few times every day you will find that you start getting credits quickly. I got all 6 of the $10 million and higher cars in a little over 2 months. I did various other campaign series races too and always tried to get the clean race bonuses also. The F1 races are a lot of fun too and they pay well. It also helped me to go from level 46-50 in that time.
 
is there still a way of making credits while you sleep by putting a rubber band on a DS4? I read something about that somewhere.....

Or has that been patched out of the game now?

AFAIK it still works, you just can't loose the race by too much or else you don't get the payout. 9 hours was about the longest I left it and still got the credits, can't remember the combination but it paid out 2,000,000 a race.
 
Never did the BMB grinding, however now I'm starting to consider it. Still have some +1mil cars to buy and also the high rollers 20mil.

So far, I'm doing the professional event 1 for Gr1 cars. 8 laps at Maggiore. I use the Porsche 919 and it's a fun car to drive. It takes me around 14-15 mins.

The reward itself is 220k, with a clean bonus is 340k.
 
Why would you consider Blue Mooning if you can make almost as much doing the Maggiore Gp 1 race? Sounds like thats a better bet!!

I hate that stupid Blue Moon race. I did it a couple of times with an Xbow tune I found on here and it worked ok but its so deathly boring and you don't really have a lot of room for error and mistakes either. I haven;t yet managed a clean race bonus on it so I only netted about 285k each time. And if you clip a wall or lose it, then you've basically wasted the race and need to start again. Painful.

Tonight I had a go at the other Premium Sports Lounge races with a 911 GT3 RS (991) tuned to N500. 210k (more for clean bonus I guess) and its virtually impossible to not win. Ie. No wasted attempts. You can practice drifts, spin out, smash a few times and still easily win every time.

The F1 races are also good for payout but I wouldn't say they're good for mindless grinding. A few big mistakes and its hard work to get back up and win. I'm yet to win at Suzuka and Fuji. Only started playing them a week or so ago,
 
AFAIK it still works, you just can't loose the race by too much or else you don't get the payout. 9 hours was about the longest I left it and still got the credits, can't remember the combination but it paid out 2,000,000 a race.

Can you explain how it actually worked? From what I understand you put rubber bands on controller so throttle was on and steering slightly tilted. How did it net credits overnight though? Was it done on a track with walls and you grind against the wall going round and round? Or something like that? Sorry if they're stupid questions!
 
Can you explain how it actually worked? From what I understand you put rubber bands on controller so throttle was on and steering slightly tilted. How did it net credits overnight though? Was it done on a track with walls and you grind against the wall going round and round? Or something like that? Sorry if they're stupid questions!
Like in my quote below :), and this does still work.

Sorry to hear about your progress loss. I always back up my save to an usb stick once a week so I can't lose too much progress.

For grinding:

1. First set up the conroller with Motion Sensor Steering, Right Stick for accelerator and turn the vibration function off.

2. Garage > X-Bow R '12 > Traction Control 1 > All other aids off (ABS can stay) > Car Settings >115% power ratio and 91% weight (should be N300) > Front tyres Sports=Hard, Rear Tyres= Racing Super Soft

3. Arcade > Custom Race > Blue Moon Speedway (the first one) > whatever time it's on > Garage Cars and select your already set up X-Bow > Automatic

4. Race Type=Endurance > No. of Cars=2 > Boost=Off > Opponent Category=Gr.1 > Opponent Difficulty=Proffessional > All other settings are left alone.

At this stage you should have this screen below, but you can adjust the time to however long you want. You aren't going to win so we're looking at the second place values, 10min. pays 50,000, 4hrs pays 801,000, 5hrs pays 1,000,000 and so on.
View attachment 739951

5. Then press start race > put your rubber band on > set your controller on an angle so your car rides the wall (it might come off the wall breifly but that's ok) as in the pictures below.
View attachment 739975
View attachment 739976

It's probably a good idea to run a short race first, and even now I still check every now and then if I'm home. I've come back to my car either doing doughnuts or nosed up against the wall smoking the tyres :dopey: (this happened when I'd forgotten to put Traction Control on)

Happy Grinding :gtpflag:
 

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