FIA GT3/GT2 ORDL.CO.UK Pro Series Non Championship Race this Sunday Night GMT all welcomeFinished
- Thread starter easy9
- 149 comments
- 9,831 views
- 712
- London
- m1racing
I am can not offer much help sorry, there are a few threads on the tuning forum explaining how the diff works, I can understand it but could not really put the initial torque part into practice, I think lower number give you a little more oversteer, and higher number give you a little more understeer. Doc should be with us next Sunday, I am sure he can explain it much better.
As for the dampers, I have no idea, all I do is to move the bar left and/or right and it is not really making much difference for me at the moment on GT6, I think it will take a few more weeks before any of us work out how they work. If you find out more about how the suspension works, do share with us.
BTW you done very well on Sunday, I watched the replay on R1, you didn't made much mistake and really look after your tyres well. The 3 way battle at the front was exciting to watch, it went on for over 15min.
I saved the R2 replay but could not play it, so I can not comment on the last lap incident. I was so looking forward to watch myself in the R8 trying really hard not to fall off the track for 22laps, very disappointed, have to do it all over again some other time.
~~~~~Merry Xmas~~~~~
I must reply to GTP Caine soon.
Cheers, all in all it went well I think,
Just need to get faster but possibly at the cost of tyres,
Was a good race, can't wait for the next one
I have managed to tinker the gtr (fastest) z4 and sls to within .400 of each other, tried the r8 no chance... That needs someone who knows what they are doing,
Just need to get faster but possibly at the cost of tyres,
Was a good race, can't wait for the next one
I have managed to tinker the gtr (fastest) z4 and sls to within .400 of each other, tried the r8 no chance... That needs someone who knows what they are doing,
- 66
- nottingham
- doctorpotford
Hello mate
The suspension can be adjusted to control weight transfer and tyre load. GT5 had the tyre load indicator to give you a guide to what was going on but some brightspark decided to leave it out of GT6. A basic explaination would be you are searching for a balance between tyre load (not too much or too little) and stability, Higher numbers increase load and decrease transfer, lower numbers decrease load and increase transfer. Good luck finding it!! ;-)
As for the differential, do you understand what the diff does and how it achieves it? Need to understand that before getting your head around the adjustments.
Hope this helps, anybody want to add any info or correct me if I'm wrong post away.
- 197
- Brampton
Mike: In testing you may want to look at the HP of the BMW M3. The PP for the other cars is very similar around 630 but the M3 is only 605. My experience is that the car under performs especially on the straight and could use a boost in HP. Then again it could be my lack of talent.
- 1,877
- Bury St Edmunds
- GTP_Caine
What doctorpotford said, but just to elaborate a little more.
The dampers are the shock absorbers on the suspension. The compression and extension setting are how you control the shocks.
The easiest way to picture them, is think of a car driving over a speed bump. The chassis stays still but the suspension compresses as you go over that bump.
Compression is the upward stroke of the suspension, and extension is the downward stroke.
A low compression value allows the suspension to compress easier.
A high compression value makes the suspension harder to compress.
Too soft and you wont get brilliant cornering speed, too stiff and the car will 'bounce' over bumps and loose traction.
The extension is the force the shock applies pushing the suspension back down onto the ground.
A low extension value extends the suspension slower.
A high extension value extends the suspension faster.
Too slow and you will loose traction as the wheel isn't being pushed back onto the track, too fast and the wheel will bounce when it makes contact again.
----------------------
As for the diff, I must admit I'm not 100% sure about the initial torque, but the accel and deccel are quite simple.
Each drive wheel has a drive-shaft powering it. The two driveshafts on the same axle are connected via a diff. You might have heard of something called a diff-lock on trucks and 4wd's. A diff-lock is when the two driveshafts are locked together, meaning they both turn identically. This is handy for rough terrain because if 1 wheel begins to slip, the other wheel can drive you out. However, when you go around a corner, the outside wheel needs to rotate faster than the inside wheel as it has a further distance to travel so for racing you want a looser diff, one that allows them to rotate at different speeds. This is controlled by the LSD (Limited slip diff)
A lower number is a looser diff, and a higher number is a tighter diff. As an example, with a loose diff, if a wheel looses contact with the road, the majority of drive will be sent to the airborne wheel (no load - easier to rotate). With a stiff diff, even if a wheel breaks contact, drive will still be sent to the grounded wheel.
So for acceleration, if one wheel looses traction and starts spinning, with a loose diff you will loose drive (acceleration), and with a tight diff you won't loose the drive. But, if you try and accelerate while turning, a tight diff will cause understeer (it tries to go in a straight line) and a loose diff often causes oversteer (rear end tries to overtake the front)
So you need to find a balance between maintaining the best traction whilst still allowing the car to rotate sufficiently.
The deceleration part is pretty much the same principle. If you try to brake and turn, a tight diff would cause understeer and a loose diff would cause oversteer.
I personally set initial torque to 10 for pretty much every car, occasionally I will tweak it. But for acceleration, the better the cars natural traction, the lower you can set the value. If you are constantly spinning the wheels on traction, turn it up abit higher. For deceleration, if its difficult to turn and brake lower the value. If the rear end starts to wobble, turn it up.
It's a fine balancing act, and you will have to experiment to see what works best for you. Hope that's helped you understand it.
The dampers are the shock absorbers on the suspension. The compression and extension setting are how you control the shocks.
The easiest way to picture them, is think of a car driving over a speed bump. The chassis stays still but the suspension compresses as you go over that bump.
Compression is the upward stroke of the suspension, and extension is the downward stroke.
A low compression value allows the suspension to compress easier.
A high compression value makes the suspension harder to compress.
Too soft and you wont get brilliant cornering speed, too stiff and the car will 'bounce' over bumps and loose traction.
The extension is the force the shock applies pushing the suspension back down onto the ground.
A low extension value extends the suspension slower.
A high extension value extends the suspension faster.
Too slow and you will loose traction as the wheel isn't being pushed back onto the track, too fast and the wheel will bounce when it makes contact again.
----------------------
As for the diff, I must admit I'm not 100% sure about the initial torque, but the accel and deccel are quite simple.
Each drive wheel has a drive-shaft powering it. The two driveshafts on the same axle are connected via a diff. You might have heard of something called a diff-lock on trucks and 4wd's. A diff-lock is when the two driveshafts are locked together, meaning they both turn identically. This is handy for rough terrain because if 1 wheel begins to slip, the other wheel can drive you out. However, when you go around a corner, the outside wheel needs to rotate faster than the inside wheel as it has a further distance to travel so for racing you want a looser diff, one that allows them to rotate at different speeds. This is controlled by the LSD (Limited slip diff)
A lower number is a looser diff, and a higher number is a tighter diff. As an example, with a loose diff, if a wheel looses contact with the road, the majority of drive will be sent to the airborne wheel (no load - easier to rotate). With a stiff diff, even if a wheel breaks contact, drive will still be sent to the grounded wheel.
So for acceleration, if one wheel looses traction and starts spinning, with a loose diff you will loose drive (acceleration), and with a tight diff you won't loose the drive. But, if you try and accelerate while turning, a tight diff will cause understeer (it tries to go in a straight line) and a loose diff often causes oversteer (rear end tries to overtake the front)
So you need to find a balance between maintaining the best traction whilst still allowing the car to rotate sufficiently.
The deceleration part is pretty much the same principle. If you try to brake and turn, a tight diff would cause understeer and a loose diff would cause oversteer.
I personally set initial torque to 10 for pretty much every car, occasionally I will tweak it. But for acceleration, the better the cars natural traction, the lower you can set the value. If you are constantly spinning the wheels on traction, turn it up abit higher. For deceleration, if its difficult to turn and brake lower the value. If the rear end starts to wobble, turn it up.
It's a fine balancing act, and you will have to experiment to see what works best for you. Hope that's helped you understand it.
- 66
- nottingham
- doctorpotford
Excellently put Caine!
Now just spring rate, camber and toe settings to fiddle with. :-o
Now just spring rate, camber and toe settings to fiddle with. :-o
- 1,442
- Scotland
- Glen-Alz-81
Initial torque refers to the amount of pressure acting on the gears inside the diff..the higher the setting the quicker it will lock and better acceleration will be achieved..the lower the setting the more gently the pressure is applied and easier driving is..go too high and understeer followed by breaking traction will occur..go to low and you will lose the punch from your torque band..also if too low as you accelerate out a bend the car will sound like the clutch is slipping... the long and short being low for ease of driving or high if you want an aggressive delivery of torque.
- 39
- East London
- unclepsx
Hello everybody,
Just wanted to say I really enjoyed racing with you guys Sunday and looking forward to the next one.
More testing needed but I'm happy with my R8's performance. Was a little put off after getting hit by the bigballs player but still managed 5th in race 2.
Just wanted to say I really enjoyed racing with you guys Sunday and looking forward to the next one.
More testing needed but I'm happy with my R8's performance. Was a little put off after getting hit by the bigballs player but still managed 5th in race 2.
- 1,011
- Grimsby
- Evoloution
Hey all,
Nice to see Pre Season going well. Please dont forget to register at www.ordl.co.uk in order to participate. Our new forum can be used to discuss everything to do with the Pro Series and we have lots of great new features for all our members.
Mike, great pictures would you kimdly add them to Pro Series gallery.
Evo
Nice to see Pre Season going well. Please dont forget to register at www.ordl.co.uk in order to participate. Our new forum can be used to discuss everything to do with the Pro Series and we have lots of great new features for all our members.
Mike, great pictures would you kimdly add them to Pro Series gallery.
Evo
- 712
- London
- m1racing
, we will keep it simple with minimum changes for this Sunday:
- 712
- London
- m1racing
Good idea, I am on 2 week nights, mostly Tue and Thru/Fri, there are always someone on every night. Its good to test together and exchange ideas.
Have you compare the Z4 to the SLS?
I have updated some of the rules - Section 6 and 7. The main updates are:
Penalties 7.1 7.2 and 7.3 are now almost double
New handicaps for winner/2nd of R2
- 1,011
- Grimsby
- Evoloution
Finally getting my hands dirty in the Pro Series tonight, be nice to meet a few of the Pro guys here who I haven't raced with before. Doc and the others who haven't registered already, please do so before the season starts. I have asked M1 if we can start moving more of the conversations over to the new website also, we have a full feature forum with sections for all series. If our members can start to head over to the thread there it would be appreciated.
Pro Series Forum: http://ordl.co.uk/forum/m/17733324/viewforum/3335478
Evo
Pro Series Forum: http://ordl.co.uk/forum/m/17733324/viewforum/3335478
Evo
- 197
- Brampton
Mike: Fun racing tonight. It really is fun when you can go into a corner and expect not to get sideswiped and punted into the dirt. I drove the SLS and with the current setup could get 12 laps out of a set of soft tires so a race of 15 laps involved a stop. The second race at 35 laps was just about the perfect distance. It was possible to make the first stop at lap 11 and the second at lap 23 and just have enough tire tread to not have the lap times deteriorate to the stupid range. When I was testing the M3 it appeared to get much better tire wear but that could have been just the difference in car setup. I noticed that the room was setup for 14 players. Is it possible that we had players that wanted to participate but could not join the room.
