@neema_t I can turn it the full 900 by hand, The video posted isn't of my wheel I just saw it and it had the same problem as mine. I'm not sure which other forum to post to to be honest. I've not really been into heavy sim racing for a while but have been using the wheel on Euro Truck Sim 2. Only thing I can think of now is a motor has blown a mofset but I'm not good enough with electrics to attempt a fix
I don't think it's a blown MOSFET, if it was then the motor wouldn't turn in at least one direction, but if your wheel is turning as the one in the video is then your motors and FETs are probably ok. Your power supply might be out of spec, though, I suppose if the voltage or maximum current were to drop (do you know how old the wheel is?) then you'd expect there to be less torque. Could you post a video of your own wheel? Or, if not, I've got a load of questions:
- With the power off, is it easy to turn the wheel all the way left and then all the way right? Is there any kind of resistance at any point?
- When you power it on and it attempts to calibrate, do you hear an audible 'clunk' when the wheel stops turning right and then again when turning left? In other words, does it sound like the wheel is hitting the physical stops or does it sound different?
- Does it seem to be turning slower than usual, or slower than in other videos of G25s that are working normally?
- You mentioned that you can turn it the full 2.5 turns by hand, do you think you could 'help' it calibrate by turning the wheel past the point where it stops? What happens if you do that?
- You could also try stopping the wheel by hand while it's calibrating, does it feel weaker than usual if you do that?
By the way, was your old encoder wheel actually damaged when you removed it or did you do it as a precaution?