General Model Kit Building Thread
- Thread starter eddieturner2002
- 1,619 comments
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- 5,833
- Right behind you
- SRV2NV
Great job, and walking away with a free kit is never a bad thing.
Wow, I want that Porsche...
Wow, I want that Porsche...
- 222
- UK
- acjy1985
Just after a bit of advice. I have read all 40 pages so far and still cannot make up my mind on which model to get started. I did some Airfix aircraft when I was younger and would now love some cars. I just want to start on some cheap sets to 'get my eye in' so to speak before I move on to the more detailed Tamiya models. I know this thread is for 1:24 so I can probably guess the answer but should I start with an Airfix 1:32 just as a cheap way back into it as this includes some decals so it doesn't matter if I cock them up or a Revell 1:24? The Revell is almost twice the price of the Airfix if that helps sway any decision 
Thanks
Thanks
- 3,180
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
I bought a Tamiya Aston Martin DBS today (the one I made before was so terrible I decided to throw it away 
), but before I start working on it tomorrow, I would like to ask you some questions:
Shall I spray-paint it with TS-40 (Quantum Silver) or TS-17 (Titanium Silver)? I'll fit it with 'Quantum of Solace'-like license plate decals if the body is painted in TS-40.
How much thinner do you add to a bottle of paint before painting? It'd be nice if you can provide me with a paint-to-thinner ratio.
How many layers of spray paint should be sprayed onto a car body? Is 3 layers enough?
How do you spray a car body without touching any of the painted surface?
What methods do you use to prevent the painted surfaces of a part (which is waiting to dry) from touching anything?
Shall I 'black-wash' the car body?
How do you paint thin lines with the paint staying within the line (without using masking tape)?
), but before I start working on it tomorrow, I would like to ask you some questions:Shall I spray-paint it with TS-40 (Quantum Silver) or TS-17 (Titanium Silver)? I'll fit it with 'Quantum of Solace'-like license plate decals if the body is painted in TS-40.
How much thinner do you add to a bottle of paint before painting? It'd be nice if you can provide me with a paint-to-thinner ratio.
How many layers of spray paint should be sprayed onto a car body? Is 3 layers enough?
How do you spray a car body without touching any of the painted surface?
What methods do you use to prevent the painted surfaces of a part (which is waiting to dry) from touching anything?
Shall I 'black-wash' the car body?
How do you paint thin lines with the paint staying within the line (without using masking tape)?
Last edited:
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,274
- United States
Spray paint shouldn't need thinning.
- 1,541
- Mexico
- Yauma10
GT HP Nut: I think that you'd need some kind of stand for the body to paint it without touching it. (If you're spray painting it)
So... I'm buying a 1/24 86 GT from Tamiya (yeah) and well, is there anything of vital -or semi-vital- importance that isn't covered in the instruction manual? (If there's even one?)
Also the little cans of paint are spray cans?
So... I'm buying a 1/24 86 GT from Tamiya (yeah) and well, is there anything of vital -or semi-vital- importance that isn't covered in the instruction manual? (If there's even one?)
Also the little cans of paint are spray cans?
- 3,180
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
- 3,180
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
I just noticed that the chassis undersurface may require some masking while spray painting, but I don't have any masking tape made specifically for modelling, so I'm thinking if I can use something else for the masking. Can I use normal adhesive tape for the masking, or should I go out and buy masking tape designed specifically for modelling use?
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
I don't think there's any masking tape specifically designed for modelling use. Even Tamiya's masking tape is just that. Masking tape. The difference between it and other tapes is that masking tape is designed not to leave any adhesive on the surface after you remove it.
Just get any masking tape, though I advise getting more expensive ones, as those actually do as they were designed and don't leave any adhesive on the plastic.
Just get any masking tape, though I advise getting more expensive ones, as those actually do as they were designed and don't leave any adhesive on the plastic.
- 5,833
- Right behind you
- SRV2NV
I bought a Tamiya Aston Martin DBS today (the one I made before was so terrible I decided to throw it away
Shall I spray-paint it with TS-40 (Quantum Silver) or TS-17 (Titanium Silver)? I'll fit it with 'Quantum of Solace'-like license plate decals if the body is painted in TS-40.
How much thinner do you add to a bottle of paint before painting? It'd be nice if you can provide me with a paint-to-thinner ratio.
None. They come pre mixed and you only need to add thinner/water if you're doing a wash or air brushing.
2-3 should be enough, but you'll be able to judge it for yourself when you're doing it.
Get a wire coat hanger and bend it up to fit inside the shell, or use some cardboard with a paper towel roll underneath, then make a stand to hold it after its painted. I always make sure its small enough to fit under a clear tote bin or in the microwave for drying.
See above. Basically your stand should be sturdy enough to hold it up without it falling over.
Up to you. A proper "black wash" would be to darken up the color you painted the body in and wash with that.
With a thin brush, but unless you're a brain surgeon, the line won't look right. Masking tape...painters tape...I've even used scotch tape and electrical tape in a pinch. Just remember to remove the tape up and away from the edge and you should be fine.
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
Porsche 911 Carrera Speedster '89: Part 2
After a while I do have something to show again!
Eventually it will be built, I promise that.
The first thing I did after posting part 1 was I cut off the bonnet. Strangely the kit is actually made with that in mind. They provide pieces and instructions for detailing the interior, but the bonnet is actually a part of the body instead of being a separate piece. I suspect they reused the mold from a different less detailed kit.
Regardless I bought a saw.
It's rather large I know, but they were out of the tiny photoetched modelling saws.
It got the job done though.
I also started preparing the interior a bit. After a dry fit I noticed that the inner door is a bit too low
I used a bit of styrene to fix that.
I also sprayed primer on the body.
I sanded out some errors after spraying too. Priming is useful as it allows you to see irregularities in the body better.
I then built the front stabilizer and brakes.
I also painted everything for the rear axle. I'll get it assembled later.
This update really is all over the place, but I wanted everything prepared for detailing the interior and painting the body at the same time. Normally I paint the body last and then I feel really stupid while waiting for it to dry with nothing to do.
How not to mask:
I'm not worried though since most of the transition between white and black will be covered in various plastic bits. And I'll use flocking on the inside so it's not a problem.
All in all not much to show considering it took so long, but I did also work on making hinges for the bonnet. I've never done it before, so it isn't the best looking thing. I've nearly got it though and that'll definitely be in the next update.
- 5,833
- Right behind you
- SRV2NV
Nice work on separating the hood.
I also love it when models come with lugs on hub/rotor. Gives you an extra touch of realism and opens up new ways to display the car.
I also love it when models come with lugs on hub/rotor. Gives you an extra touch of realism and opens up new ways to display the car.
- 3,180
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
I have finished spray-painting the DBS, so the next step is polishing the car body. There is a problem, though, as I'm not sure if I should use Tamiya's polishing compounds or its modelling wax. I have all 3 polishing compounds, but modelling wax seems to be the one that should be used (having seen this). Do any of you have an answer?
(Both images are taken from a search on Google.)
(Both images are taken from a search on Google.)
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
I have both the compound and the wax. They compliment each other as the compound may still leave microscopic scratches in the paint after using it.
The paint is still shiny and it looks fine on its own, but the modelling wax actually makes the scratches go away and it looks really good. So use both is my answer.
The paint is still shiny and it looks fine on its own, but the modelling wax actually makes the scratches go away and it looks really good. So use both is my answer.
- 3,180
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
That means more things to be bought then... 
Another question: what do you use to apply the compounds/wax on the model? Cotton pieces or cloths used for cleaning eyeglasses or something else?
Another question: what do you use to apply the compounds/wax on the model? Cotton pieces or cloths used for cleaning eyeglasses or something else?
- 3,180
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
It appears that I won't be able to make any progress on the model for some time (going on a vacation tomorrow), so I might just upload a picture of what I have done so far. Here's the only picture:
It's the first time I've painted the 'ventilating holes' on the brakes. I might have added too much holes (considering I just add black dots wherever I think is needed on the brakes), but I think it came out nicely.
(And I'm sorry for the double post.)
It's the first time I've painted the 'ventilating holes' on the brakes. I might have added too much holes (considering I just add black dots wherever I think is needed on the brakes), but I think it came out nicely.
(And I'm sorry for the double post.)
- 3,619
- Slovenia
- csiApok
Nice work. 👍
I use whatever piece of cloth I have lying around for the compound (maybe that's why I got those microscopic scratches in the first place
), but for the wax I got a finer cloth with it when I bought it (Tamiya). Though I think I lost that one and I'll need to find a replacement.
I use whatever piece of cloth I have lying around for the compound (maybe that's why I got those microscopic scratches in the first place
), but for the wax I got a finer cloth with it when I bought it (Tamiya). Though I think I lost that one and I'll need to find a replacement.
- 3,180
- Hong Kong
- Hybrid_Tifoso
Is there any way to remove spray paint (lacquer paint) from the surface of a layer of enamel paint without dissolving or destroying the layer of enamel paint or its glossy surface? Tamiya produces lacquer thinners, but they come in large bottles, and I don't think I'm going to need that much.
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