m well aware of how camber works in real life, the point you seem to be missing is that unlike real life where you lose a bit of straight line performance in return for an increase in cornering ability in GT6 there is no increase in cornering ability. You lose a negligible amount of straight line performance and lose a considerable amount of cornering grip regardless of how well suited your camber is suited to your supposed suspension geometry.
I had to disagree on this, you'll gain more cornering grip by using camber in GT6, here's gone crazy example, check what speeds it can carry out on corners, it has ridiculous amount of camber, even done that amount and your saying is fighting against odds.
My PS3 died many months ago so I won't be testing anything unfortunately but I can already tell you that you've given me nothing that could ever qualify as proof of anything. None of them are built as race cars and there is nothing to compare them to in order to gauge the degree of any supposed improvement.
Ford GT40 would never work fine with high rear camber, in real-world or in GT6.
Drifter is fully copy from real-life and works fine, utilizes all aspects of tuning/physics and gains all benefits of camber as real-world.
I don't have to proof, it's more like to show at there is also ways to tune fully working car with camber, and get it fast, as my TT edition shows at arcade style tuning is giving results what are faster, but same faster results would come on real-world too if someone just was crazy enough and willing to risk his life and drive such setup fast.
Handling characteristics of zero camber car are, well.. Arcadeish, fast but also far away from handling characteristics what people are used to get/drive in real-world.
I often used camber on my drift cars because the inherent reduction in grip makes corner transitions much smoother, the cambered front end is less likely to snatch at grip as you chuck it across the curbs so control can be maintained more effectively (alternative method for reducing front grip would be an increase in spring rate but that has the drawback of making the car hop and skate across the surface therefore doing more harm than good). Transition between gripping and sliding is improved with camber, the car generally lets go and regains grip more smoothly but peak grip is reduced.
Here's difference on approach, real rwd drifter needs maximum grip on leading front wheel, drifter will do anything to get more grip on leading wheel during cornering, it's not sliding.
Comparing to real-world and your approach you're just preferring to soap tires slightly so no unwanted grip is coming to interfere your slide, totally opposite what drifter is.
In a drift car peak grip does not matter as much, your ability to control the car is more important than the cars physical capabilities so it is acceptable to make otherwise negative modifications, the peak grip is rarely utilised so there is no real loss. In racing the physical capabilities of the car are as important if not perhaps more important than the ability of the driver (within reason of course) so any amount of compromise will hurt you, if you can't reach the same peak grip as the car in front of you then he's going to get a little bit further away with every corner and there is going to be precisely bugger all you can do about it.
Using my drift setup as example, there is 100% grip on front all-time, unless you throw it on four wheel slide, rear has maximal grip all-time too and suspension, power of engine and weight transfer breaks traction, not camber.
There is even wing utilised to gain bit more grip on rear for better traction control, wingtips to stabilize slide, wingstays what allows downforce to reduce on higher speeds and allow easier high speed drift, and give lot of downforce on slow speeds.
Car in really nimble on control, as drifter should be, zero artificial sliding included, driver can easily do any drift maneuver as he wants.
Again you may do drifting car just by stiffening springs adding ridiculous amount of camber and slide with that soap box around, but it's sliding even you doesn't want it to slide, controlling slide is there, but it's doing everything differently than real-world drifter does, I'm not saying at it's not drifter, it's drifter but it doesn't work on same principles as real-world drifter is intended to work.
Again my point, it can be done working on same principles as real-world car would, that's proof on my tune there.
Fair competition is where the problem with camber raises its ugly head and shows its most defining feature, I don't want to be crass and raise your FITT record but you can't help but notice the trend in the results when it comes to cars running camber. I'm sure with your apparent understanding of vehicular physics and theory you must be able to adjust the major knobs and buttons well enough to build a competitive car but the results never fall in your favour, is it that you perhaps used slightly the wrong caster angle in your equations based on Joe Greasy Spanners revised tyre theory (C1972) and maybe if you adjusted for toe deflection under compression you might somehow find those 3 seconds you were looking for? Or is it more likely that you're just blinding yourself to the obvious truth that your car would go much faster if you just left it at 0.0 and used the other settings to more effectively manipulate the driving dynamics?
Fitt compos results aren't holy grail for understanding how GT6 or real-life works, there is several tuning aspects covered, also there is lot between lines, harder the car is drive in natural form, better it will come by using camber on tune, you can tame "beast handling car" by using camber.. Doesn't make sense, well tamed car and it is also kinda quick, even on Fitt compo.
Pointing out Fitt as source on camber doesn't make actual sense, any car can be tuned on zero camber, it will make really fast laps, IF you have skills to do so, or you have time to try enough times to get one clean lap. Point of using camber is to get car moderately (or more) fast and safe to drive races where you just can't restart lap and try again.
I made TT zero camber tune out of Ford just for curiosity, when I tested, not grinded, tested on seasonal it went on ~P120 on second lap, yes it was faster than camber version, actually it was kinda stable considering at it's zero camber car, but it's not hanging higher than trade-off dynamic vs static change needed, but it's lot more vulnerable to drive than camber version, what went on third test lap ~P200.
If you want to carry on believing that the cars and physics in GT6 bear anything more than a passing resemblance to the real world then that's your business, I frankly couldn't care less. What irks me is that you continue to preach about how its better and how the rest of us idiots are just not doing it right without being able to prove a thing except that you know how to quote someone else's work. When you're standing on top of the podium you've earned the right to tell others how its done, until then you've just got to accept that others know how to do it better and try to work out why
Sad at you couldn't care less, I'm caring only information, I like at different possible choices what people can choose are out there, visible for choosing, IF you read my writing you'll find out at I'm not saying at zero camber is slow, or bad, it's just unrealistic and will cause car to handle in unrealistic manner, it's faster for several times mentioned reasons.
Never said you or kept you as idiot, but after reading "you know how to quote someone else's work" I'm starting to slowly wonder, I'm not quoting anything else than my own work, what you mean by this?
. If the aid is enabled, the icon is displayed on screen and when it flashes, this means the system is working/taking effect. If you tune the car with TC on and get to a point where this light never flashes, you can turn TC off and have the car handle the same 
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