General Tuning Guide (Updated 1.09)

[JTB10000]

Sorry accidentally posted it twice.

 

[DolHaus]

I have a question: what do I adjust to temper this weird one-wheel wheelspin that happens to FF and classic Muscle cars when cornering?

That would be the LSD, the part which transfers the power from the engine to the wheels. Old muscle cars and FF's have what is known as an open differential meaning that power will be transferred to the wheel with the least resistance, in this case the inside front/rear depending on the drivetrain.
To solve this you need to increase your Accel settings using a Fully Customisable LSD. Before fitting the new part make a note of the stock settings as the custom unit reverts to its own settings when fitted. If you change the numbers back to stock you will have a good starting place to work from. To solve the immediate problem of inside wheel spin you need to increase the Accel number so power is delivered more evenly across both drive wheels, increase by 2 at a time until the you feel like you are getting better drive out of the corners.
Give the LSD section another read and play around with the settings so you get a feel for what is happening and how you can improve it by making changes.

 

[SDsnakebutt]

I have a question: what do I adjust to temper this weird one-wheel wheelspin that happens to FF and classic Muscle cars when cornering?

Im sure @DolHaus will have a good detailed answer for you. But if you don't mind me asking just so there is a little more information given. Is there a particular time you get the single tire spin? turns? accelerating?

My guess would have to be LSD. Acceleration sensitivity to be specific. I know that the smaller the number the more Inside tires will spin and the Higher the number the more Outside Tire will spin. You keep moving up or down till you can get Both Inside and Outside tires to spin at the same time.

IDK if this contributes to what you are talking about. @DolHaus Is way more knowledgeable with Tuning than i am so he will probably be able to point you the right way. Thanks for letting me take a stab at ur question tho. Good luck

 

[SDsnakebutt]

That would be the LSD, the part which transfers the power from the engine to the wheels. Old muscle cars and FF's have what is known as an open differential meaning that power will be transferred to the wheel with the least resistance, in this case the inside front/rear depending on the drivetrain.
To solve this you need to increase your Accel settings using a Fully Customisable LSD. Before fitting the new part make a note of the stock settings as the custom unit reverts to its own settings when fitted. If you change the numbers back to stock you will have a good starting place to work from. To solve the immediate problem of inside wheel spin you need to increase the Accel number so power is delivered more evenly across both drive wheels, increase by 2 at a time until the you feel like you are getting better drive out of the corners.
Give the LSD section another read and play around with the settings so you get a feel for what is happening and how you can improve it by making changes.

I hope it was OK that i answered @JTB10000 Question. Its very strange, when i saw his question and than posted my reply i didnt see your post. It now shows your post before mine. If i would have seen you answered his question i wouldn't have posted my post. As you can see from my post i didn't see any Post from you. Sorry about that.

It is good to see that i was correct tho The credit should go to you. Its YOUR guide that has taught me a lot of what i know so Thank you for that.

 

[DolHaus]

I hope it was OK that i answered @JTB10000 Question. Its very strange, when i saw his question and than posted my reply i didnt see your post. It now shows your post before mine. If i would have seen you answered his question i wouldn't have posted my post. As you can see from my post i didn't see any Post from you. Sorry about that.

It is good to see that i was correct tho The credit should go to you. Its YOUR guide that has taught me a lot of what i know so Thank you for that.

Not a problem, your answer was indeed correct (as far as I can tell from the question at least).
Glad you found it useful, it covers the basics but there is still a lot to learn beyond it when turning the theory into practice. I find that once you can identify the cause of a problem then the answer is never far away, just a matter of experimenting to see what solution works best.

 

[adam46]

@DolHaus How would I stop a car from sliding when I lift off?

 

[DolHaus]

@DolHaus How would I stop a car from sliding when I lift off?

What drivetrain/car is it?
Could you also please describe the situation a little more in depth (is it happening after braking/throttle).

It sounds like it might be another LSD related problem where there is too big of a difference between the Initial and either the Accel or Decel figures. My first port of call would be slowly raising the Initial, this will make the drive wheels act more consistently and add general stability but if raised too much then it will make the car difficult to rotate and add understeer. If you raise the Initial you will also need to make small adjustments to the Accel and Decel figures because it influences the way both of them work.

 

[adam46]

What drivetrain/car is it?
Could you also please describe the situation a little more in depth (is it happening after braking/throttle).

It sounds like it might be another LSD related problem where there is too big of a difference between the Initial and either the Accel or Decel figures. My first port of call would be slowly raising the Initial, this will make the drive wheels act more consistently and add general stability but if raised too much then it will make the car difficult to rotate and add understeer. If you raise the Initial you will also need to make small adjustments to the Accel and Decel figures because it influences the way both of them work.

It's a RUF BTR, and it's off the Accel. I'll try what you've recommended.

 

[DolHaus]

It's a RUF BTR, and it's off the Accel. I'll try what you've recommended.

With the BTR I would also recommend putting some ballast in the front so its less rear heavy and raise the rear ride height to stop it rotating so viscously. Its one of the defining characteristics of an RR drive train, fast turn in but really hard to drive at the limit due to the way the rear swings around like a pendulum unless kept in check.

If you are new to tuning then I wouldn't recommend any of the RUFs as a project car, they're more than a little tricky to work with and require a quite high degree of skill and experience.

 

[LLandmannn]

Might sound like a stupid question , but how could one stop their car jumping about under brakes? I drive a 99 Lancer Evo VI and it jumps around when braking for the 2/3rd last corner after the back straight on Mount Panorama Motor Circuit. Is it my set-up? is it the road surface?
Please help me!

 

[DolHaus]

Might sound like a stupid question , but how could one stop their car jumping about under brakes? I drive a 99 Lancer Evo VI and it jumps around when braking for the 2/3rd last corner after the back straight on Mount Panorama Motor Circuit. Is it my set-up? is it the road surface?
Please help me!

If your car is jumping around it usually means your suspension is too stiff and/or doesn't have enough travel (ride height too low).
Try adding some ride height first, raise it up 20-40mm and try again to check you are not bottoming out the shocks. If the problem persists start by reducing your damper compression to allow the suspension to react more quickly and suck up the bumps. If the problem is still there by the time you reach 1 then your springs are too stiff and need reducing.
Bathurst is one of the bumpiest tracks out there, it requires a fairly unique and soft setup. Being that it only has a few high speed corners, the cornering speed losses associated with soft suspension will be minimal and balanced by the increased grip in lower speed sections.
What tyres are you on? I've never found a road car to feel comfortable on Racing tyres at Bathurst, its too bouncy without proper down force to make the tyres work so you will be constantly snatching at grip.

 

[LLandmannn]

If your car is jumping around it usually means your suspension is too stiff and/or doesn't have enough travel (ride height too low).
Try adding some ride height first, raise it up 20-40mm and try again to check you are not bottoming out the shocks. If the problem persists start by reducing your damper compression to allow the suspension to react more quickly and suck up the bumps. If the problem is still there by the time you reach 1 then your springs are too stiff and need reducing.
Bathurst is one of the bumpiest tracks out there, it requires a fairly unique and soft setup. Being that it only has a few high speed corners, the cornering speed losses associated with soft suspension will be minimal and balanced by the increased grip in lower speed sections.
What tyres are you on? I've never found a road car to feel comfortable on Racing tyres at Bathurst, its too bouncy without proper down force to make the tyres work so you will be constantly snatching at grip.

Thanks a lot DolHaus I'll try that tomorrow
I usually am driving on sports soft or racing soft (if the host allows it). I'm usually ok with the amount of grip I get apart from the crest at the top of the mountain, I need to brake early or risk sliding sideways into the next corner

 

[DolHaus]

Thanks a lot DolHaus I'll try that tomorrow
I usually am driving on sports soft or racing soft (if the host allows it). I'm usually ok with the amount of grip I get apart from the crest at the top of the mountain, I need to brake early or risk sliding sideways into the next corner

No problem, hope it helps.
When running Racing softs on road cars it needs to be as stiff as possible to work the tyres, this presents problems on bumpy circuits because the car will be bouncing around all the time and grip level will drop and spike constantly due to the car skipping over bumps.
Road cars have a fair amount of flex in the body and chassis which makes them not ideal for the conditions that racing tyres require, the suspension could be made of solid steel with no give at all but the body shell and chassis will continue to wobble around on top causing unexpected weight shifts and other stresses. I'd strongly advise that you fit the rigidity upgrade at GT Auto if you are planning on running race tyres, helps get rid of some of the issues but it will never solve it completely. Unlike GT5, race tyres just don't work with some road cars, the platform can't match the performance.

Just to clarify, you are talking about the braking section after The Chase (long fast kinked straight turning hard left at the end)?
Is it locking up and sliding at the rear under hard braking or actually bouncing? If its locking up and sliding it could be a brake balance issue or an LSD decel problem.
Are you noticing the front end diving into the ground? If so that could mean your front springs are bottoming out under braking and you will need to increase the front spring rate and/or damper compression. (this is why you need stiffness with racing tyres, they put huge load on during braking and cornering. The tyre wants to stop but the body wants to keep going)

 

[SCClockDr]

Might sound like a stupid question , but how could one stop their car jumping about under brakes? I drive a 99 Lancer Evo VI and it jumps around when braking for the 2/3rd last corner after the back straight on Mount Panorama Motor Circuit. Is it my set-up? is it the road surface?
Please help me!

I use this very place to tune my braking balance as a first step. I do a hot lap from the garage and save the "Best Lap" replay. (Needs to be a valid lap.) I then fire up the Data Logger, load that replay, and maneuver to that section and look at the wheel speeds vs vehicle speed. {I use tab 2 with Speed, Left Front Wheel Speed, Right Front, Left Rear, Right Rear} I shoot for ~ 20-25Km/h difference front & 15-20 Km/h difference rear. I then scan the corners for accel. & decel. places while turning to look @ left/right wheel speed differences if any. My goal here is ~1Km/h outside wheel faster than inside. (Most FR cars come in around 22 accel. & 14 decel., I use a torque of 10 mostly.)

 

[LLandmannn]

No problem, hope it helps.
When running Racing softs on road cars it needs to be as stiff as possible to work the tyres, this presents problems on bumpy circuits because the car will be bouncing around all the time and grip level will drop and spike constantly due to the car skipping over bumps.
Road cars have a fair amount of flex in the body and chassis which makes them not ideal for the conditions that racing tyres require, the suspension could be made of solid steel with no give at all but the body shell and chassis will continue to wobble around on top causing unexpected weight shifts and other stresses. I'd strongly advise that you fit the rigidity upgrade at GT Auto if you are planning on running race tyres, helps get rid of some of the issues but it will never solve it completely. Unlike GT5, race tyres just don't work with some road cars, the platform can't match the performance.

Just to clarify, you are talking about the braking section after The Chase (long fast kinked straight turning hard left at the end)?
Is it locking up and sliding at the rear under hard braking or actually bouncing? If its locking up and sliding it could be a brake balance issue or an LSD decel problem.
Are you noticing the front end diving into the ground? If so that could mean your front springs are bottoming out under braking and you will need to increase the front spring rate and/or damper compression. (this is why you need stiffness with racing tyres, they put huge load on during braking and cornering. The tyre wants to stop but the body wants to keep going)

I got the rigidity upgrade and it helped a fair bit , cheers for that
Yeah the chase is where it happens really bad , raised the height and lowered the damper compression and it seems to help. The brakes aren't locking up or sliding and its not literally jumping up and down it just kind of turns by itself when I'm braking hard. When i try to correct it slightly it would turn sharper than I wanted it to and this sometimes leads to my back wheels hitting the grass and the car ploughs into the sand. It seems to turn right when braking for the chase more often than left , I don't know if this means anything or it could be the angle that the track is on or something.
Thanks for your help so far

 

[DolHaus]

I got the rigidity upgrade and it helped a fair bit , cheers for that
Yeah the chase is where it happens really bad , raised the height and lowered the damper compression and it seems to help. The brakes aren't locking up or sliding and its not literally jumping up and down it just kind of turns by itself when I'm braking hard. When i try to correct it slightly it would turn sharper than I wanted it to and this sometimes leads to my back wheels hitting the grass and the car ploughs into the sand. It seems to turn right when braking for the chase more often than left , I don't know if this means anything or it could be the angle that the track is on or something.
Thanks for your help so far

What are your current LSD settings and brake balance? Sounds like you need to raise the LSD Decel numbers to stabilise and balance the wheels under braking and prevent it rotating. The other thing could be the brake balance slowing one end of the car down faster than the other causing rotation.

 

[Thorin Cain]

View attachment 129147 (Picture and editing by @FussyFez)
Limited Slip Differential:


The LSD or 'Diff' is the final stage between gearbox and wheels in terms of power delivery. It consists of a central box full of gears that determine which wheel the power is delivered to and with how much force. It can be used to completely change how a car reacts under acceleration and deceleration and forms a very important part of tuning your car.


High numbers = Locked (power delivered equally to both wheels)

Low numbers = Open (power delivered to which ever wheel is easier to turn)




Initial Torque:


The initial torque is an overall setting for how tight or loose you want the LSD to be, it effects both the acceleration and deceleration settings and can overrule both if set to a high (locked) value.

Initial Tuning:
​

Open (lower values):


Pros: Improves manoeuvrability

Cons: Reduces the effect of acceleration/deceleration settings



Locked (higher values):


Pros: Increases the effect of acceleration/deceleration settings

Cons: Reduced manoeuvrability



Acceleration Sensitivity:

The acceleration sensitivity basically defines how the driven wheels will act under acceleration. With a locked setting (higher number) both wheels will rotate at the same speed which gives the best straight line acceleration but poor manoeuvrability during corner exit and increases the likely hood of wheel spin or bogging down depending on the cars power levels and overall characteristics. Open settings (lower numbers) allow the wheels to spin at different rates and offer better manoeuverability during exit and reduced wheel spin, the downside is slower straight line acceleration due to the natural tendency of energy to choose the easiest option which means power will be sent to the least useful wheel.

Acceleration Tuning:​

Open (lower values):


Pros: Reduces wheel spin when exiting corners

Cons: Initial turn in is less responsive



Locked (higher values):


Pros: Only really suited to drift tunes as it helps to keep oversteer predictable and linear

Cons: reduced grip and stability



Deceleration Sensitivity:

The deceleration sensitivity basically defines how the driven wheels will act under deceleration. With a locked setting (higher number) both wheels will rotate at the same speed which gives the best straight line traction and potentially better braking but makes the car very difficult to rotate during braking. With an open setting (lower number) the wheels can rotate at different speeds giving better rotation but reduced stability and potential braking efficiency.

Deceleration Tuning:​

Open (lower values):


Pros: More manoeuvrable under deceleration/braking

Cons: Reduced stability



Locked (higher values):


Pros: Increased Stability when decelerating/braking

Cons: Increased understeer

You do learn something new every day!

I just had a good read through this section and lesson received.👍

I never really gave this one much of a going over before as I though I had a decent grasp of the LSD functions from the other sources I've read. But the Initial tuning section showed me a thing or two, I had never known that the Initial functioned in this way exactly. I knew the basics open=more oversteer, locked= more understeer, but until I read this I never really understood the effect it actually has.

Thanks again for opening my eyes a little further @DolHaus!

Edit: Doh! Forgot the reason I was here. I'm wondering how you find it best to approach the LSD for 4WDs?

 

[DolHaus]

You do learn something new every day!

I just had a good read through this section and lesson received.👍

I never really gave this one much of a going over before as I though I had a decent grasp of the LSD functions from the other sources I've read. But the Initial tuning section showed me a thing or two, I had never known that the Initial functioned in this way exactly. I knew the basics open=more oversteer, locked= more understeer, but until I read this I never really understood the effect it actually has.

Thanks again for opening my eyes a little further @DolHaus!

No worries, they're remarkably simple once you understand what it does. All it basically is is a way of setting the speed differential between your drive wheels, this can be hugely influential on a cars handling characteristics particularly on RWD setups.

 

[Thorin Cain]

No worries, they're remarkably simple once you understand what it does. All it basically is is a way of setting the speed differential between your drive wheels, this can be hugely influential on a cars handling characteristics particularly on RWD setups.

I'm pretty sure it's just what I'd been looking for, I just didn't get that there was the relationship between the Accel. and Braking through the Initial.

So just to make sure I have got this right. The initial setting is what I'd use to limit how drastic the difference is between Acceleration and Braking whilst using just throttle control through a section of corners(i.e S-bends at Suzuka.)?

 

[DolHaus]

I'm pretty sure it's just what I'd been looking for, I just didn't get that there was the relationship between the Accel. and Braking through the Initial.

So just to make sure I have got this right. The initial setting is what I'd use to limit how drastic the difference is between Acceleration and Braking whilst using just throttle control through a section of corners(i.e S-bends at Suzuka.)?

Initial (pre-load) is the most dominant setting, anything below this value will not register
Accel and Decel are separate from each other so changing one will not effect the other
The closer accel/decel are to the Initial setting, the smoother the transition between phases will be (ie. lifting off the throttle while cornering - if the numbers are close then the car will be stable and continue turning at the roughly same angle, if the initial is way lower then the rear will start rotating faster potentially causing instability)

Basically if theres a big difference between initial and accel/decel then you get quite a jerky transition between the phases which can upset the balance. Imagine hitting a very small pothole, not big enough to impact the car but enough to upset it on corner entry or exit

 

[Thorin Cain]

Initial (pre-load) is the most dominant setting, anything below this value will not register
Accel and Decel are separate from each other so changing one will not effect the other
The closer accel/decel are to the Initial setting, the smoother the transition between phases will be (ie. lifting off the throttle while cornering - if the numbers are close then the car will be stable and continue turning at the roughly same angle, if the initial is way lower then the rear will start rotating faster potentially causing instability)

Basically if theres a big difference between initial and accel/decel then you get quite a jerky transition between the phases which can upset the balance. Imagine hitting a very small pothole, not big enough to impact the car but enough to upset it on corner entry or exit

Thanks again my good man! It's all crystal clear now:tup:

 

[DolHaus]

Thanks again my good man! It's all crystal clear now:tup:

No worries
The other thing to remember is that if you are using lower figures on Accel then you will end up losing acceleration because of the way energy always looks for the easiest route.
What happens is when you corner the weight is transferred away from the inside rear wheel, this makes it easier to rotate and you end up with a one tyre fire when giving it some throttle. The power is basically going to the easiest wheel to spin and not where you need it. Tighten up the diff and you force it to be more equally distributed because it can't rotate the inside wheel as fast as it wants

 

[Thorin Cain]

No worries
The other thing to remember is that if you are using lower figures on Accel then you will end up losing acceleration because of the way energy always looks for the easiest route.
What happens is when you corner the weight is transferred away from the inside rear wheel, this makes it easier to rotate and you end up with a one tyre fire when giving it some throttle. The power is basically going to the easiest wheel to spin and not where you need it. Tighten up the diff and you force it to be more equally distributed because it can't rotate the inside wheel as fast as it wants

I really appreciate your help. I find it so much easier to put everything together when I know exactly what the tunable parts are actually doing, as opposed to the usual "This causes oversteer,That causes understeer." descriptions I have seen elsewhere.

Thanks again for your time and help with this. And for producing this guide, it really is a great help and a huge asset to the community!👍

 

[DolHaus]

I really appreciate your help. I find it so much easier to put everything together when I know exactly what the tunable parts are actually doing, as opposed to the usual "This causes oversteer,That causes understeer." descriptions I have seen elsewhere.

Thanks again for your time and help with this. And for producing this guide, it really is a great help and a huge asset to the community!👍

You are most welcome.
Yeah I know what you mean, I wrote this for beginners who might not understand the ins and outs of every tuning option and tried to include an overview of what the parts are doing. I could go on for days about how every part works and how it might affect other parts but it would get too complicated for those just looking to make their car a bit better. I'm more than happy to explain the more complex parts if asked, I enjoy it frankly, gives me something to focus my mind on.
Its a little bit tricky to give firm answers about what will or will not happen when changing various settings as the tuning model of GT6 is so complex and it really does vary from car to car. I can usually look at a setup and see roughly how it will perform but sometimes there will be ones that defy the trend for reasons that are beyond me. These are all little nuances that need learning, that's what I love about the game.
We all learn through shared knowledge on forums like these, I'm not overly competitive so I don't see a need to withhold tuning tricks from other users. If me helping another driver with tuning makes them faster on the track then so be it, just means that I have to step up my game next time.

 

[Thorin Cain]

You are most welcome.
Yeah I know what you mean, I wrote this for beginners who might not understand the ins and outs of every tuning option and tried to include an overview of what the parts are doing. I could go on for days about how every part works and how it might affect other parts but it would get too complicated for those just looking to make their car a bit better. I'm more than happy to explain the more complex parts if asked, I enjoy it frankly, gives me something to focus my mind on.
Its a little bit tricky to give firm answers about what will or will not happen when changing various settings as the tuning model of GT6 is so complex and it really does vary from car to car. I can usually look at a setup and see roughly how it will perform but sometimes there will be ones that defy the trend for reasons that are beyond me. These are all little nuances that need learning, that's what I love about the game.
We all learn through shared knowledge on forums like these, I'm not overly competitive so I don't see a need to withhold tuning tricks from other users. If me helping another driver with tuning makes them faster on the track then so be it, just means that I have to step up my game next time.

I could not agree more! When I first discovered your guide that's what I liked about it. It didn't get too technical and your bullet points in each section were superb for me to use as a kind of diagnostic tool if I was having issues. As I'm not all that experienced, for me it was perfect for that. I had no problems understanding the other guides in the forum and I learned a great deal from them but sometimes you just need to get a quick recap of some of the finer points and I felt most of the other guides, although very well done, were just a bit too heavy for that purpose. And for me even though some of them contained great information they failed to cover the way things actually work and more importantly their relationships with other settings and for me that is critical to get a proper understanding.

I like the technical aspects more than the cause and effect approach, I just feel that in order to make the right change at the right time it helps to know how and why the moving parts do what they do and how best to utilise their functions. And in that sense I have really learned quite a lot from your kind self in the past month or so through our various discussions here and there.

I really do appreciate the time and effort you (And others.) put in to assist us lesser experienced tuners to get to grips with things and it is due to people like yourselves, that this is such a great community to be part of.

 

[JTB10000]

Last question then I'm done being a noob: how do I adject the brake balance so that the wheels don't lock up so early while braking?

 

[DolHaus]

Last question then I'm done being a noon: how do I adject the brake balance so that the wheels don't lock up so early while braking?

Are you using ABS?
What phase of braking is the lock-up happening?
Is it locking all 4 wheels (skids straight on with no steering possible) or just the rear (back end comes round under hard braking while steering)?

 

[JTB10000]

Are you using ABS?
What phase of braking is the lock-up happening?
Is it locking all 4 wheels (skids straight on with no steering possible) or just the rear (back end comes round under hard braking while steering)?

Yes, I meant without abs (forgot to add that part). I just want to know, in general, how to tune for the brake balance since I am going to start driving without abs. Thank you in advance.

 

[DolHaus]

Yes, I meant without abs (forgot to add that part). I just want to know, in general, how to tune for the brake balance since I am going to start driving without abs. Thank in advance.

I don't really use ABS 0 personally but when I've played with it I found you generally use much lower figures.
If you were using a slight rear bias with ABS, lets say 5/6, you might want to use 2/3 without.
@Ridox2JZGTE might be able to give you a better explanation?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

I don't really use ABS 0 personally but when I've played with it I found you generally use much lower figures.
If you were using a slight rear bias with ABS, lets say 5/6, you might want to use 2/3 without.
@Ridox2JZGTE might be able to give you a better explanation?

Yes, I meant without abs (forgot to add that part). I just want to know, in general, how to tune for the brake balance since I am going to start driving without abs. Thank in advance.

I'll quote these 2 great posts about no ABS driving, it's from GT5, but should give good starting point in GT6 ( GT6 has much better braking physics and better braking input, so on most cars, higher brake balance can be used )

So you want to Drive without ABS...
Taking the step to driving without ABS is a big one, the new characteristics unlocked from each car mean that driving in GT5 takes on a whole new dimension.

Starting Out

Input Devices:
Controller- difficult and I wouldn't advise it. That's not to say that it's not possible/fun. Recommended to set the brake and gas to either the right stick or to L2/R2.
DFGT (what I use)/G25/G27- Relatively mushy brake pedal, but the force feedback makes up for it in terms of feeling the brakes. Never had a real issue with the mushiness though.
Higher end (Clubsports etc.)- Should be great, never tried anything like this myself.

At the end of the day, no pedal is going to replicate the feedback you get from a real life brake.

Car choice and track choice are important to starting out. Choose a low powered car that you're comfortable with and is, most importantly, stable.

I'd recommend something like the Premium Honda Civic Type-R (EK) completely stock. It doesn't take too much to lock the wheels, however when it does it's neutral and doesn't spit you off into the nearest barrier. This way you can get used to dealing with front wheel lock up and learn how the car reacts. I'd certainly recommend front wheel drive cars to start with. RWD cars tend to react very differently to braking.

Track choice is also rather important, although it may not seem it. You'll want to choose something that has nice, simple corners that don't require some deft brake work: avoid Daytona, Suzuka and Tsukuba as turn 1 at those tracks are a nightmare to the inexperienced no ABSer. I'd recommend something like Monza to get used to high-speed braking and something like Nurburgring GP/D for more complexity and a bit more trailbraking.

Beginner's guide to no ABS brake balance settings:

What you have to realise when beginning driving with no ABS is that no car has the same braking characteristic. Some will be supremely stable (generally speaking FFs), some will react violently to trail braking (generally 4WDs and MRs) and some will have very little threshold before the tyres lock (Camaro SS '10 etc.).

First things first, brake balance is your friend. The GT5 standard 5:5 brake balance will send you into a spin the first time you touch the brakes. Because of this, you have to adjust the brake balance to suit each vehicle's individual characteristics, both through the overall braking power (how high your values are) and the ratio of front to rear bias. Generally speaking a bias at which the front locks before the rear is desirable, as in the case of lock up, you'll plow into the corner, rather than going in taillights first.

Technically having a brake bias where you can lock the brakes at any speed is best because you can reach the threshold at any speed, however I've found it to be faster and certainly more consistent to set so you can hold 100% for a few seconds (i.e. you'll lock up below 100mph). This is also a lot more realistic and a lot more fun.

Here's my method for getting a reasonable setting:

Road Cars:

Starting balance: 4:2

From there, if you find you are locking up the front too easily, move each value down 1, to 3:1. If you still find you're locking the front too easily, try 2:1 or 2:0. Beyond that you are losing too much braking force at high speed. It's also good to note that a brake value of 0, does not mean no braking on those wheels, it is just the minimum value.

In some cars, for example a lot of 4WD cars, you'll find that the rear slides out under trailbraking. This is why I always use a starting value of 5:2 for 4WDs. If you find you're locking too easily, try 4:1.

For MR cars, they are always a bit unstable and even with a good BB setting they'll generally still get loose when trailbraking. However start from 4:2 and tailor from there. With MRs, I generally find 4:2 or 4:1 to be best.

Racing Cars

Starting Balance: 6:3 (for older cars I'd start with 4-2, for example I use 4:1 on my Ford GT MkIV)

Because racing cars have higher grip tyres and downforce, they can withstand more braking force. That's not to say, however, that some racing cars won't lock easily. For example, the Autobacs Garaiya lock it's front tyres rather easily, so for that car I use a balance of 4:2.

Apply the same rules as for road cars to tailor your BB. Locking the rear? Try 6:2 or 5:2. Locking the front too easily? Try 4:2 or 5:2.

Important notes on BB setting:

• 
  
  
  • These are just my tips, some people like to use higher balances, some people like lower ones. Find what suits you.
  • Each track may require a different balance. A track with lots of high speed braking zones (La Sarthe, Monza etc.) might be better if you raise your BB a bit. A track like Laguna Seca where trailbraking is very important and the heavy braking zones are bumpy (T2 & Corkscrew), might be better suited with a slightly lower bias.
  • Locking the inside wheel isn't necessarily a BB issue. It can also be down to a bad diff setting. The Deceleration value can be tailored to lock the inside or outside wheel first, try to get a happy medium.
  • Adjust your BB to suit the situation you're using it in. For example, in a one off hot lap, running higher brake balances is preferable to gain that higher braking force (especially at high speed). However in a race where tyre wear is a factor, you may want to lower your BB slightly to minimise lock up.
  • You'll also want to change you BB to suit the state of both the weather and the state of your tyres. If it's wet, you'll lock up a lot faster (I mean a lot, it's very easy to underestimate) so keep the same ration of F:R, but lower the values (using 6:3? Go to 4:2 or even 2:1 etc.). If your front tyres are getting worn too fast, flick the rear value up slightly, or take 1 click off your front one. If your rears are wearing, put a bit more front on. You'll also want to change your bias even if they're wearing evenly, however, keep the same ratio.

General Tips for Braking with no ABS

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  • First off and very importantly; don't be afraid of locking up, it's not that big a deal. Simply ease back up on the pedal until your tyres regain grip. Don't jump off the pedal, especially if your turning, as that unsettles the car and will send an already unstable car, over the edge.
  • Listen and (if you're using a wheel) Feel. Due to the distinct lack of feedback that your pedal/stick/button gives you, you need to learn to listen to when the tyres are close to locking and, more importantly, feel it in the force feedback. You'll know when you feel it, it's a lightening of the wheel.
  • Understand threshold braking: The faster you are going the more force the brakes can apply to the tyres, as your speed decreases, so does the brake threshold (the exact point at which the tyre loses grip and locks). This means that in order to brake without ABS you need to tailor your brake pressure according to the speed at which you're entering the corner. For a fast corner, you may need to apply 100% pressure for a split second before slowly easing the pedal out, keeping it in line with the brake threshold for maximum braking efficiency. This is tricky to do and will take some practise. You can always hold a steady lowish pressure, however you will not be braking as effectively.
  • Trail Braking: turning uses up some of the available grip of your tyres, this means that in order to trail brake into a corner, you can't use all the available grip of the tyres by threshold braking. Instead you have to adjust your braking to the amount of steering angle you are using. More steering angle=less brake pressure. Simples.
  • When using no ABS you need to be aware of the track surface, if there's a bump in the braking zone (Corkscrew, Tokyo Reverse T1) you need to modulate the brake pedal to avoid lock up (ease up).
  • Some cars just don't work well without ABS, some do. Car choice is a key part of enjoying no ABS driving.
  • Smoking the inside wheel every now and then doesn't really matter, we all do it, however in a race where tyre wear is a factor, you may want to be a little more cautious.
  • Use it to your advantage. Some cars, especially 4WD ones, you can slide the car slightly by braking and turning hard. I find that if used correctly and appropriately, this can help you immensely on twisty tracks.
  • Don't be afraid to race people using ABS, challenge yourself.
    
    But why would I want to make myself slower?...
    
    Simply put, you won't. If you spend enough time practising and develop a feel for the brakes you'll be putting in times on a par with your ABS times. The fact is that if you get a perfect lap without ABS, it will be as good as one with, however you have more things to go wrong and therefore might not be as consistent.
    
    It will take time to get used to no ABS, it isn't going to happen overnight. So don't expect to be able to match your ABS times straight away, it may well take a good 10 hours of practise to get anywhere close.
    
    You need to practise. You need to get to know what brake balances work for you, how much you can brake while turning and the way the car reacts to braking in general.
    _____________________________________________________________________________________
    
    And most important of all: Have Fun
    It's not for some people and don't try and force it if you don't enjoy it. However, don't disregard turning ABS off without giving it a proper go first. 👍

I searched but couldn't find anything similar, however, apologies if it's already been done.

Anyway, I hope this is helpful and if anyone has any suggestions of what to add, please tell me and I'll do so.

Here is my guide for the non-ABS, made for the wheel users few months ago.

NON-ABS BRAKING part #1
GENERAL ADVICES

- Different tyre-compounds call for the slightly different Brake Balance. You will notice how there is a difference in values if you experiment with the Comfort and Sport compound. However, it goes into category of the fine-tuning so results through experimenting will come with the time

- *ABS* in GT5 is not representation of the real-life ABS, it just uses that "name". ABS in GT5 is some kind of permanent braking assist *override* that not only prevents wheel-lock, but also have some invisible traction-control that nullify the suspension-modelling and equalises unique characteristics of the vehicles resulting with ability to turn while braking and never loose grip

- when ABS is OFF many cars will just go to snap-oversteer once the brakes are applied in full. You must never brake with full-constant power - you would never brake like that in the real-life too. In order to get maximum for your braking, you have to learn to brake is *sequences* - press/release/press/release/press/release/etc.

- you have to reconsider everything you know about braking-points and configurations for every track. With ABS off, suspension modelling becomes "free" and suddenly all elevations (lateral and longitudinal) of the surface becomes major factor in the driving. The sensation is vastly different than with ABS ON, so be prepared to revise everything you've learned to that point.

- all FR/MR/RR cars - being road or racing - have to be set with front bias noticeably stronger than rear. Through my testing I still haven't found any single FR/MR/RR car that calls for BB of the rear-brakes stronger than 2. To be honest, majority needs only 1. The key is to find proper front-strength with rear-one adjusted to point where rear brakes does not lock the rear-axle. You will know the point where rear-axle is not compromised once the car does not launch itself into snap-oversteer when braking. Once you set the rear-strength and bypass axle-lockup, you may fell that car is not stopping properly as it should. From that point, you have to force the front strength of braking until you find desired power.

On the above note, one of my last tests gave me 6/1 bias for the Ford Mark IV Race Car '67 where I needed 6/1 for proper balance of the stopping power.

NON ABS BRAKING Part #2
HOW TO MAKE NON-ABS BRAKING ACTUALLY WORK IN PRAXIS

This one have few steps.

Step A > The Mighty Sponge Ball™

Brake-pedals on all of the middle-prices wheels - Logitech DFP, DFGT, etc.. - are too loose and too soft to produce a usable sensitivity of travel in order to cope with the non-ABS braking. However, for there is a solution for that problem: The Mighty Sponge Ball™

Solution is simple: just insert the sponge under the brake and you're ready to go. Sponge will allow you to dose the actual brake-power more subtly and to actually have control of the brake-travel.

Of course, any hard-sponged material will do even better than simple sponge ball, especially high-density sponges, like neoprene for example. Once you've settled the step A) it is time for step B.

Step B > The Brake Balance Adjustment ™ - The Key to Master the non-ABS Braking

In order to achieve maximum performance and feel out of the GT5 physics engine and wheel support, you have to manually tweak few options in the game and accept few issues. First, you should go to the wheel option and set the steering to Simulation (although it affects only 270-wheels, but it is no-brainer, so just do it) and turn the Power Steering to OFF.

As for accepting issues, there is one thing you have to get use to when going into the universe of the non-ABS braking: you have to manually dial the ABS to OFF for the every car prior to the race in the Race Settings menu (unfortunately, you can't do it in the Settings menu in the Garage for the car of your choice). Once done, you're ready for the most important thing: The Brake Balance Adjustment ™

By default, every car in GT5 comes with Brake Balance set to 5/5 (front/rear). With ABS OFF and the default 5/5 value, there is no way you can properly drive the car, because that default value is messing the complete balance of the suspension and produces practically undrivable car. So, you have to manually adjust the Brake Balance for the every car you wish to use with ABS OFF.

General idea about adjust the Brake Balance comes form basic presumption of weight-distribution behaviour while braking: when you brake, the central mass of the vehicle and inertia moves from the back to the front. Thus all cars in real life have bigger and stronger brakes on the front-wheels and GT5 utilises the same logic. In order to adjust the BB, you have to re-distribute the BB values towards front. But before going onto that, one explanation.

Although Gran Turismo 5 uses the name of ABS (Anti Brake-Lock System) for that particular assist, I personally do not find it as representation/simulation of the actual ABS. I think it is nothing more than basic braking-assist which *overrides* the intertia-momentum on suspension and nullify the wheel-lock. Even ABS1 is too effective in what it does, so I do not find any mean in having the option to set it up to 10 (which game allows), so basically it is *ABS* just by name. I see it as nothing else but basic brake assist tool. Now back to BB setting.

Every car BB is different, but there is some generalisation possible. FR, RR and MR cars will all benefit from the higher setting towards the front. For example, I mainly use 3/1 setting for majority of my road FR, RR and MR cars. Of course, there are exceptions like Ferrari F40 where sheer mass of the vehicle asks for higher setting in the front in order to achieve proper distribution of the weight and stop the rear-axle from going into oversteer because of the insufficient braking-power on the front wheels > so for the F40 I use 5/1 setting for example and for F430 4/1 (I also use 4/1 for SLS, LFA, M3 and similar vehicles).

**notice: after the new suspension model introduced by 2.07 "Academy" update, the rear-axle balance is always best to keep in "1". If on "2", it will lock the rear-brakes too much, thus "1" is the only proper balance.

Actual weight of the vehicle makes a lot of difference too. Ferrari 599 calls for the 5/1 setting (Sport Hard tyres) because of the weight, while stock Corvette ZR-1 C6 RM - you mentioned it in your post - calls for 6/1 balance in order to achieve stability and efficiency of braking.

For FF and 4WD cars I generally use 3/2 or 4/3 setting in order to combat understeer on the front-wheels. GT does not take pad-size into concern (check the SHIRAKAWA Akira's elaborate here), but in order to combat understeer and lockup on FF and 4WD cars I tend to *equalize* the pressure on the front-axle by minimizing the deistribution of the braking-balance from the front wheels and force the rear-axle oversteer in order to have natural entry to the apex.

PLEASE NOTICE that I use Fanatec CSP pedals and values I've described are made with that in focus. Many of my friends who use Logitech G25/27 are using slightly lower settings (where I use 4/1 they use 3/1, etc..) because the threshold of the actual brake-sets is different for every manufacturer. Experimenting is the key.

Another thing becomes important when advanced settings comes into perspective: such as having Tire Wear ON, or driving on the wet surfaces with changeable weather/track conditions. To cut it short, the RA Adjust Functions (that in-race screen you can call-in and adjust some setting on the fly in the real-time with either Manetino-wheel on your DFGT or button-combination on the other wheels) becomes very important during the advanced races, because the tire-heat and degradation can call for altering the BB, as well as the wet surfaces. However, you will come to the appropriate conclusions by yourself through experimenting during time.

Small notice is how settings adjusted through RAMenu menu does not *stay* on the car through the venues if you quit the race before the end. So if you changed the settings during your Free Time run in online-lounge fro example, you will not have them applied once the race starts > values are set to those in main car-Settings menu. So if you come to the better solution through RAMenu during the Free race, you will have to alter them again through RAMenu once the race starts if you didn't changed them in the Settings menu.

Of course, GT5 now offers option to save multiple Settings (A/B/C, in the Settings menu), so you can manually set the ABS OFF setting for every car in one of the "Sheets" - under the B for example - in order to use it when you like. Notice how another issue is that you have to first set the desired Setting Sheet (B for example), than go to Race Options and set ABS to OFF, and than come back to settings and apply the proper BB settings. That is because once you set the ABS to OFF in the Race Option settings (where "A Settings Sheet" is always default one), it stays like that for the particular car everywhere you go with it (including online). If you opt for ABS OFF in the default "A Settings Sheet" so you will have to manually re-set it to 1 every time you want to race the car with the ABS ON. A bit confusing, but once you get used to it, it becomes just another Gran Turismo Player Masochistic Routine™.


NON-ABS BRAKING part #3
Step C >Every Car Becomes Unique Without ABS™

I know that all above probably sounds complicating, but in fact it is not. Once you install the The Mighty Sponge Ball™ (for users of wheels that needs one) and get used to the logic of the Brake Balance settings, the new world opens. Once you disengage the braking-assist (one we call the ABS for reasons of commodity and easier perception for the casual players) you will finally get the proper feeling of the unique physics of the every car.

Disengaging the brake-assist and diving into the world of proper Brake Balance settings will enhance the unique "characteristics sensation" for every vehicle and make it even more *recognisable*. Once you begin to utilise the correct BB settings, you will be able to actually feel the pavement-ripping torque of the F40, the feel of the Aventador's mass decelerating while eating the front tires or difference between the braking-characteristics of all GT500 cars which pretty much handles inside the same handicap while ABS is turned on.

Take your time and test on the low-powered cars for start, preferably on Tsukuba and than moving to the Trial Mountain. Mazdas MX-5/RX-7 are great for FR cars basics, and once you master them you can move to the MR class with the F430 as the best car for that task. Of course, test all of them with their default tires in order to develop the feel for the actual tire-threshold and BB values you need to apply.

Good luck and I hope you'll have the great time once you indulge yourself into this beautiful universe.

Generally, with steering wheel/pedal input, higher at the front is the norm, but if you have pedal mods or can trail brake effectively, add more rear brake will beneficial to add more rotation under braking, beware though, too high might lock the rear early or cause over rotation under heavy braking.