thanks mate, came as a bit of a surpriseCongrats on sticky
Obviously been noticed and appreciated by those that matter. 👍thanks mate, came as a bit of a surprise
Saves me bumping the post at least lolObviously been noticed and appreciated by those that matter. 👍
That does sound like a great idea, combining all of the guides into one package would certainly be usefulIs anybody interested in a tuning encyclopedia with all the tuning info and guides built into a PDF with pictures, etc? If so I'll start one. Then maybe if it gets completed the tuners with guides could put the file in their OP or something? Just thinking aloud here.
I think it would be a great idea 👍👍👍, if I can help out, just give me a shout, I should hear you from the moon. I've done some tests on ride height with different settings, all recorded data, would be more than happy to contribute. (didn't use my anti-gravity car for this)Is anybody interested in a tuning encyclopedia with all the tuning info and guides built into a PDF with pictures, etc? If so I'll start one. Then maybe if it gets completed the tuners with guides could put the file in their OP or something? Just thinking aloud here.
Just before reading this I was doing the copy/paste thing. I don't mind erasing some stuff if it's to help me be a better tuner. I was looking for your garage (used the fun search function) when I saw this thread, real nice and helpful, thanks. Is that moustache the right color? And by the way, the seat of the stratos was already soiled before I used it.That does sound like a great idea, combining all of the guides into one package would certainly be useful
(Please note: I'm going to be updating this one soon (maybe this week?) so hold off on any copy/pasting from here for the time being)
I won't be changing anything major so don't worry, I might make some further notes but the original content will stay unchanged.Just before reading this I was doing the copy/paste thing. I don't mind erasing some stuff if it's to help me be a better tuner. I was looking for your garage (used the fun search function) when I saw this thread, real nice and helpful, thanks. Is that moustache the right color? And by the way, the seat of the stratos was already soiled before I used it.
Yeh 1 should be softest and 10 should be stiffest.This may sound really dumb but i think ive had hard and soft mixed up since the start. Is lv 1 soft or stiff with lv 10 the other? I always thought the higher the stiffer but car doesnt react like that. Descriptions have always suxd in game so thanks in advance.
The first stage is to analyse the stock LSD, take it out for a spin before you put the custom one on and concentrate on the three key areas:-Great guide thank you so much for the effort taken into it!
I do have one question though:
- Let's take an example that I'm tuning my LSD, since most tuning guides for any simulation racing game states that it's essential to change one thing at the time, how much do you jump from one value to other and then test? same question applies to springs. do you jump 2 clicks each time and then fine tune?
hope made my question clear enough have a good day.
The first stage is to analyse the stock LSD, take it out for a spin before you put the custom one on and concentrate on the three key areas:-
(I will describe a RWD layout because its easier to explain)
Initial setting: This is easiest to analyse when the car is rolling without throttle or braking applied. Take it into a corner, lift off and turn in, concentrate on how the back end of the car feels in terms of rotation. If it doesn't want to turn then the number is too high, if it feels loose and unstable then the number is too low. This setting also affects how aggresively the Diff kicks in but I will cover that below.
Acceleration sensitivity: This is easiest to analyse coming out of a corner with full throttle applied. Concentrate on how the rear wheels behave when accelerating out of a bend. If the car pushes wide on exit or spins the tires up then the number is too high, if it feels like its lacking power and/or spins the inside rear tyre then the number is too low.
Braking sensitivity: This is easiest to analyse coming into a hard braking zone whilst turning. Concentrate on how the rear wheels behave under braking conditions and how much rotation is possible during the act. If the car won't turn then the number is too high, if it feels loose and unstable then the number is too low.
Now install the custom LSD and match the stock settings if possible. If the stock LSD has unreachable or strange numbers then you should start with a base setting of 12/30/12.
I generally adjust it by 4 clicks to start with, then 2, then 1. Its generally a good idea to start fairly big and then half it then half it again until you find the sweet spot. This way you will be able to home in on the desired setting efficiently and accurately. With experience you will learn roughly where to start depending on the overall characteristics, on some cars I will start by knocking off or increasing by 10 or 20 straight away because I know that is what it needs to perform as I want it to, but I'd recommend going gently while learning.
When it comes to suspension I start by first matching the spring rate to the tyres. If you imagine the slider bar indicating spring rates divided into 9 roughly equal sections, each of these sections represents a particular tyre starting with Comfort Hard on the left and ending in Racing Soft on the right. Now you have a rough starting point to help find the ideal spring rate for that tyre. I would bring the slider into that area and test drive it to make sure it felt right. When it comes to how much you should increase/decrease by I would start with 2kg and then 1kg, 0.5kg, 0.25 kg etc. as described with the LSD settings.
This method basically applies to all suspension/lsd adjustments, you just need to go back and forward in measured amounts until you find the ideal setting, slowly refining and learning as you go.
Glad you are finding the guide useful, I hope this answer helps, feel free to ask any further questions you may have.
Best of luck
No problem at all, glad to help.Thank you so much for the detailed explanation mate with this now the guide makes even more sense and I'm beginning to understand where to look and how to fine tune way more than my previous tuning attempts.
I'm collecting as much information and tips as i can and putting all of them in one wrapped guide to be placed next to me when trying to address a base tune or correcting an obvious faulty behavior.
I really wish GT has tire Temp readings to scientifically judge the tune mechanical grip progress while in and out of the corner. Telemetry and a fetch logger would also help judge the way the suspension is travelling and if the ride height and spring combination is still in the safe zone. In Gt is all up to visual decisions and spring feeling fed to you through the steering ffb, I really lack on a vital weapon any good driver should have is to feedback what happened exactly there and get confused and usually blame myself as if it is a driving error (I'm a decent driver mind you).
But with your guide around things are becoming way easier, Thank you again
I see people mention in other threads about the ride height effect being incorrect or something. Could anybody clarify?
The ride height is a little counter intuitive. Its commonly believed that if you raise the rear ride height that this should make the car more tail happy but the opposite is true due to the way the car physics is worked out in GT.I see people mention in other threads about the ride height effect being incorrect or something. Could anybody clarify?
Yes, GT6's gravity values are much too low so this makes sense.The ride height is a little counter intuitive. Its commonly believed that if you raise the rear ride height that this should make the car more tail happy but the opposite is true due to the way the car physics is worked out in GT.
Basically, the way it works is changing the ride height at either end moves the centre of rotation and mass of the car backwards or forwards depending on which end is higher.
If you lift the front then the rotation point moves further towards the back making the car easier to rotate. If you lift the rear then this will move the point of rotation forwards and make the car harder to rotate enhancing stability. There is a cut off in performance improvement past a certain point because the point of rotation is too far back so don't assume using extreme differences will lead to instant improvement, like all elements of tuning its about finding the right balance.
It works in a similar fashion to (and in conjunction with) ballast by making either end of the car heavier or lighter when in motion without affecting the static weight distribution.
Hope that makes sense
View attachment 129147 (Picture and editing by @FussyFez)
Limited Slip Differential:
The LSD or 'Diff' is the final stage between gearbox and wheels in terms of power delivery. It consists of a central box full of gears that determine which wheel the power is delivered to and with how much force. It can be used to completely change how a car reacts under acceleration and deceleration and forms a very important part of tuning your car.
High numbers = Locked (power delivered equally to both wheels)
Low numbers = Open (power delivered to which ever wheel is easier to turn)
Initial Torque:
The initial torque is an overall setting for how tight or loose you want the LSD to be, it effects both the acceleration and deceleration settings and can overrule both if set to a high (locked) value.
Initial Tuning:
Open (lower values):
Pros: Improves manoeuvrability
Cons: Reduces the effect of acceleration/deceleration settings
Locked (higher values):
Pros: Increases the effect of acceleration/deceleration settings
Cons: Reduced manoeuvrability
Acceleration Sensitivity:
The acceleration sensitivity basically defines how the driven wheels will act under acceleration. With a locked setting (higher number) both wheels will rotate at the same speed which gives the best straight line acceleration but poor manoeuvrability during corner exit and increases the likely hood of wheel spin or bogging down depending on the cars power levels and overall characteristics. Open settings (lower numbers) allow the wheels to spin at different rates and offer better manoeuverability during exit and reduced wheel spin, the downside is slower straight line acceleration due to the natural tendency of energy to choose the easiest option which means power will be sent to the least useful wheel.
Acceleration Tuning:
Open (lower values):
Pros: Reduces wheel spin when exiting corners
Cons: Initial turn in is less responsive
Locked (higher values):
Pros: Only really suited to drift tunes as it helps to keep oversteer predictable and linear
Cons: reduced grip and stability
Deceleration Sensitivity:
The deceleration sensitivity basically defines how the driven wheels will act under deceleration. With a locked setting (higher number) both wheels will rotate at the same speed which gives the best straight line traction and potentially better braking but makes the car very difficult to rotate during braking. With an open setting (lower number) the wheels can rotate at different speeds giving better rotation but reduced stability and potential braking efficiency.
Deceleration Tuning:
Open (lower values):
Pros: More manoeuvrable under deceleration/braking
Cons: Reduced stability
Locked (higher values):
Pros: Increased Stability when decelerating/braking
Cons: Increased understeer
Basically yes, the rear differential on a 4wd setup will function and respond in the same way as a RWD car, it can be used to gain/lose stability for the rear of the car and adjust how efficiently power is delivered to the road via those wheels.@DolHaus ,
First off let me say Great Guide you have here. I have used this as a reference a lot when i get confused while tuning. I do have a question about LSD tho. In the guide you have above about LSD, does this also work for 4wd cars as well, in both front and back LSD settings? Im sure there are some answers to this on GTplanet if i searched around but i wanted to ask you because i appreciate the way you break things down nice and simple. Also because i use your guide a lot so i wanted to hear your view on 4wd so i know its related to whats written above. Thank you for your time and hard work!
Thank you, I'm glad it helps beginners get their heads around things as they're the ones who need the most helpExcellent read. Beginner tuners would benefit greatly from this, very clear and descriptive buddy 👍
Jerome
Basically yes, the rear differential on a 4wd setup will function and respond in the same way as a RWD car, it can be used to gain/lose stability for the rear of the car and adjust how efficiently power is delivered to the road via those wheels.
The Front differential is a little bit different because of its positioning and function. Being at the front of the car it is less influential on stability, its main function is ensuring smooth and controlled power delivery to the front wheels and preventing wheelspin and loss of traction. Its all about efficiency of power usage.
The same basic principals still apply, Initial still controls how the car rotates when off the throttle, Accel still controls how the car rotates and delivers power when on the throttle and Decel still controls how that set of wheels behaves under braking. The idea is to get as much power to the ground as possible without generating wheelspin, if you break traction on the front wheels then you won't be able to turn properly because of the massive decrease in grip. At the same time as minimising wheelspin you want to ensure that you are efficiently deploying power in order to make use of the extra traction gained by having all four wheels powered, you want to be able to use the front wheels to pull the car out of corners.
To get the best from it I would advise spending some time playing with the LSD on an FF car, that way you can learn how the different setting affect things and how they can be used to your advantage. The Initial should generally be quite low (slightly higher on high powered cars to smooth out the power delivery and prevent instant wheelspin) to allow the front wheels to go where you point them unhindered. The Accel is where you will spend most of your time, start around 30 and get a baseline feeling then try moving it 10 points up or down and see what effect it has had on the front end when trying to accelerate out of corners while turning. The Decel should be fairly low as well, often identical to your Initial settings unless there is an obvious problem with the car either not wanting to turn under braking or if the car feels like it wants to rotate around the front axle.
Yeah that's fine, no worries, copy and paste to your hearts content. If you do wish to publish anything publicly in the future then as long as you contact me first so I can proof read and make sure its correct and cite your sources then I have no issues with it, I'm happy to help where I can. Hope this makes sense and all the best with your future projects, if you have any further questions or thoughts then feel free to share them.