General Tuning Guide (Updated 1.09)

  • Thread starter DolHaus
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Hi DolHaus,
i also want to say thank you for your guide. There is soo much to learn from this thread. đź‘Ť

One question, is there any chance to get a detailed guide for the transmission setup?
I think this issue is missing, since it is pretty important for a good tune.

I tune my transmission not in a technical way and it seems there's room for improvement. Maybe you can explain what is important in setting up the correct gear ratios and how it has an affect on the handling of a car.
I know that shorter gears brings accelaration and a longer gear box top speed, but aside of that it seems that it affect the handling also.

Cheers

You are right in that my transmission notes need improving, I'm constantly trying to learn the ins and out of tuning them but the process is difficult to write up. I will try to work on a better explanation but it may take some time unfortunately. đź‘Ť

sgr
So Ive been recently experimenting with torque on the latest seasonal. The xbow on ascari. I max out all the settings and limited the engine to 60 percent to get the pp. I thought since the huge gains in torque to less loss in hp i would get quicker lap times. Not the case. The car was to much for corners and the ghost would catch up in the straights. I thought sense ascari doesnt have a long straight torque would matter. I was wrong. When does torque matter and how much hp is lost to put gain in torque? I know i shoulda tuned suspension better to accomidate the snap torque gives outta corners but it seems hp always wins in getting better times. Any feedback on torque and hp guide lines working together is appreciated. like the suspension guidelines. I read the torque thread but was confusing.

I'm not going to go into a long drawn out explanation about the difference between torque and horsepower (Bhp) as it involves a lot of maths and makes my brain hurt.

If we imagine a man pushing a boulder we can visualise torque as his ability to get the boulder moving in the first place, his overall strength so to speak which dictates how easily he moves the weight and whether he can push it up an incline. Bhp is represented by his ability to keep the boulder rolling once he has gotten it moving, the more Bhp he has the faster and easier he can keep travelling at speed, almost like his fitness level.
To use another analogy, torque is like a weight lifter, Bhp is like a 400M sprinter.

Instead I will run through the way I choose parts in order to get the best performance from a car when I am building to a PP/BHP limit.
The important thing to remember is that torque is just the amount of twisting force delivered to the wheels by the engine, it can be both a good and a bad thing depending on what you want to do with a car and what the car is capable of in terms of grip.

When changing parts in order to get improve our torque we must first observe our toque curve within the tuning menu and understand what this represents in terms of our driving experience/performance.
One important thing is not to get too caught up on peak values, just because we have a bigger number doesn't mean we will go faster. We must understand how the gearing will utilise the power through all of the gears.
As we go up through the gears while racing you will notice that you start the new gear at different point in the rev range:-

1st: 1000 Rpm (idle) - 7500 Rpm (redline)
2nd: 3000 Rpm - 7500 Rpm
3rd: 4500 Rpm - 7500 Rpm
4th: 5100 Rpm - 7500 Rpm
5th: 5800 Rpm - 7500 Rpm
6th: 6000 Rpm - 7500 Rpm

As we can see, we are using less and less of the rev range as we go up through the gears, this means that we need to look our power curve to reference how much of this performance we are able to access.

Torque gives us our low speed pushing power, it is extremely useful on courses that involve climbing up a gradient and is essential for heavier vehicles. As a downside, if your tyres can't handle the force generated by the torque you are going to get a whole lot of wheel spin when exiting low speed corners. When applying these tuning principals we must think about what we want as a result, do we want low end grunt or top end performance?
If the course is full of low speed corners and/or hills and the tyres are up to the task then we will be looking for more torque. Conversely if the track is fast and open we are looking for a better Bhp range


Lets look at some examples so we have some visuals to better explain the ideas.

Car: Hyundai Genesis 3.9 - Stock
stock.jpg
Here we have the car in stock form:
359 Bhp @ 6500 Rpm
42.3 Kgfm @ 5000 Rpm
Redline: 7500 Rpm
Power limiter: 100%

As we can see the car has a fairly normal power curve. The Bhp grows fairly equally until its peak at 6500 Rpm before dropping off quite steeply in the last 1000 Rpm of the top end. The torque curve grow gradually to its peak at 5000 Rpm where it holds until about 6400 Rpm before dropping off sharply. This pattern means that the car has good mid range torque which will allow it to pull strongly through the mid range and will keep accelerating well until near the redline.

Now we will set a tuning limit of 400 Bhp and see what various parts are doing to the power curve and what this means to performance.


Tune 1
1.jpg
Parts fitted: Low-Rpm Turbo, Isometric exhaust manifold
400 Bhp @ 6400 Rpm
53.4 Kgfm @ 4500 Rpm
Redline: 7500 Rpm
Power limiter: 97.7%

With the Low-Rpm turbo fitted we see a change in the shape of the torque curve, it is peaking slightly earlier and then dropping off at almost the same rate it climbs. We are making more peak torque but less in the higher ranges. In terms of gearing this means that we would get better performance in gears 1-3 but would begin to see performance drops in 4-6 because we are starting the gear past the peak on the downward slope. In those higher gears we may actually be producing less torque than stock.
The Bhp is in a similar state to stock, the peak/drop off haven't changed enough to cause a major difference to performance.


Tune 2:
2.jpg

Parts fitted: Mid-Rpm Turbo
400 Bhp @ 5600 Rpm
60.0 Kgfm @ 4500 Rpm
Redline: 7500 Rpm
Power limiter: 95.1%

Again we see a higher peak torque figure but a more peaky range where it quickly climbs and then drops off. The drop off is slightly more aggressive than the previous tune but the peak is substantially higher so road testing would be necessary to decide which was best.
The Bhp on the other hand looks much better, the peak is earlier and sustains itself well without facing a nasty drop off in the high Rpm's.


Tune 3:
3.jpg

Parts fitted: High-Rpm Turbo
400 Bhp @ 5600 Rpm
54.6 Kgfm @ 5300 Rpm
Redline: 7500 Rpm
Power limiter: 97.7%

We can see that the lines are much less peaky with this parts configuration, there are no dramatic inclines or decline in power. We may be making less peak torque than the Mid-Rpm turbo but we are making a lot more within the usable range, this would give us great drive through the higher ranges and smooth power delivery in the lower gears. Because we are using a larger % of engine limiting we see a flat line at the top of the Bhp curve, it hits a peak and doesn't decline. This setup would definitely go on the short-list if I was looking for options.

Tune 4:
4.jpg

Parts fitted: Stage 1 engine tuning, Isometric exhaust manifold
400 Bhp @ 6600 Rpm
46.7 Kgfm @ 5100 Rpm
Redline: 7600 Rpm
Power limiter: 99.3%

We see a very similar power curve to the engine in stock form, the redline has increased by 100 Rpm and the peaks have moved in a similar fashion. This would be a good way to increase your power output without changing the engine characteristics too drastically if you liked it in stock form.


Tune 5:
5.jpg

Parts fitted: Stage 2 engine tuning
400 Bhp @ 6500 Rpm
47.0 Kgfm @ 5200 Rpm
Redline: 7700 Rpm
Power limiter: 97.2%

Again we see a similar trend as we would expect with engine tuning, the Redline is again raised and the peaks follow along in a similar fashion. Because we are using increased % of power limiter we are again seeing a flatter Bhp peak.


Tune 6:
6.jpg

Parts fitted: Stage 3 engine tuning
400 Bhp @ 6400 Rpm
50.4 Kgfm @ 5300 Rpm
Redline: 7800 Rpm
Power limiter: 89.3%

Here we are starting to see the engine being strangled by the limiter, the decline in torque is slightly steeper than before for a small increase in peak figure. I try to avoid using the limiter past the stage where it is flattening the torque curve where possible as it often makes the power less progressive through the range.

Tune 7:
7.jpg

Parts fitted: Stage 3 engine tuning, Sports ECU, Racing exhaust, Isometric exhaust manifold, Intake tuning, High-Rpm turbo
400 Bhp @ 5100 Rpm
62.8 Kgfm @ 4600 Rpm
Redline: 8300 Rpm
Power limiter: 50.5%

Here we see what happens when we go for maximum peak figures, we end up with a very odd torque peak where the power drops off sharply and dramatically but the Bhp peaks early and maintains to the redline. If you were looking for high speed performance this would be the option for you because of the Bhp consistency but your low speed grunt would be reduced.


Hopefully this answers your question, feel free to ask further questions if I've missed anything đź‘Ť

Edit:
Reply removed

Sorry @DolHaus I just realized this was your tuning thread and not the physics one. Quick glance and only saw the 1.09, it is not my intention to step on another tuners thread/toes.:banghead:

No worries mate, easily done.
As long as the answer is mostly correct I really don't mind people answering other peoples questions, always good to have a second opinion
:gtpflag:
 
Great explanation, (I'm just starting to get into the math side of it myself, and it can cause headaches.) The good ol horsepower vs torque debate. I like the saying "Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you!"
And once again, my bad for the response.:cheers:
 
perfect. Thank you. Your #1. dolhaus torque post will give me a lot to work with. And a lotta time to read and apply.
 
Great explanation, (I'm just starting to get into the math side of it myself, and it can cause headaches.) The good ol horsepower vs torque debate. I like the saying "Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you!"
And once again, my bad for the response.:cheers:
:lol: Great analogy
Honestly don't worry about it, as long as the reply is reasonable and of use to the original question then I really don't mind, it can save me a lot of words đź‘Ť

sgr
perfect. Thank you. Your #1. dolhaus torque post will give me a lot to work with. And a lotta time to read and apply.
No worries mate, the basic principals are fairly simple once you get your head around them. Much like any other element of tuning it is purely about picking what is best for your particular situation.

Just make note of which gears you are spending most of your time in during a lap
Check the starting RPM of the lowest gear in this range
Work out where on the graph that RPM fits, to the right of this line is the important area in terms of altering your graph
Experiment with different parts and with different combinations until you find what works best

Depending on the tyres and characteristics of the car you might want more or less torque/bhp in a particular part of the rev range, its not always about making the biggest numbers. It generally won't make huge differences by itself but can give you the upper hand when every 1000th is important.

Also important to adjust your LSD when altering the torque levels because the two are directly linked. You may find the settings are a little bit too loose or a little bit too tight once changes are made so be aware of it. It will only be an adjustment of one or two clicks in either direction, never likely to be a tune breaker.
:gtpflag:
 
Hi DolHaus,
i also want to say thank you for your guide. There is soo much to learn from this thread. đź‘Ť

One question, is there any chance to get a detailed guide for the transmission setup?
I think this issue is missing, since it is pretty important for a good tune.

I tune my transmission not in a technical way and it seems there's room for improvement. Maybe you can explain what is important in setting up the correct gear ratios and how it has an affect on the handling of a car.
I know that shorter gears brings accelaration and a longer gear box top speed, but aside of that it seems that it affect the handling also.

Cheers
You are right in that my transmission notes need improving, I'm constantly trying to learn the ins and out of tuning them but the process is difficult to write up. I will try to work on a better explanation but it may take some time unfortunately. đź‘Ť

Thanks for the reply.
I know it is a complex topic. No problem. :cheers:
 
I'm not going to go into a long drawn out explanation about the difference between torque and horsepower (Bhp) as it involves a lot of maths and makes my brain hurt.

Just for everyone's reference, Torque (ft-lbf) and HP are easily calculated

T = HP x 5252 / RPM
or
HP = T x RPM / 5252

But a very good post regardless!!
 
Nice post on the Torque vs BHP question.
There's some good food for thought there. :cheers:

I've been lazy and haven't done a great deal with my tune.
But there was an immediate settling of the rear end simply by swapping the Softs on the front for Meds.
Obvious implications using Softs for an Enduro, plus the loss of grip around the rest of the track.
But after a quick play, it's probably a better option to turn up the grip on the front end on Meds to the point just before the slow corner pendulum effect kicks in, than it is winding down the front grip on the Softs.
I've also found a reasonable setup using some ballast towards the front, so it's looking like it will be out of those two options as to which one I adopt.

Just reporting in as I said I would I guess. :)
 
Nice post on the Torque vs BHP question.
There's some good food for thought there. :cheers:

I've been lazy and haven't done a great deal with my tune.
But there was an immediate settling of the rear end simply by swapping the Softs on the front for Meds.
Obvious implications using Softs for an Enduro, plus the loss of grip around the rest of the track.
But after a quick play, it's probably a better option to turn up the grip on the front end on Meds to the point just before the slow corner pendulum effect kicks in, than it is winding down the front grip on the Softs.
I've also found a reasonable setup using some ballast towards the front, so it's looking like it will be out of those two options as to which one I adopt.

Just reporting in as I said I would I guess. :)
Ok, well the effect of putting a less grippy tyre on the front reducing the problem leads me to believe that you may be transferring too much weight onto the front wheels during braking. The front wheels clearly have a lot more grip during this phase and the rear has barely any which is allowing it to pirouette around the front wheels.
To combat this, I would increase the front spring rates and/or damper compression as well as lowering the extension value to help redistribute the weight when coming off the brakes. Perhaps lower the rear springs/damper compression as well.
Is your ride height equal at both ends?
 
Ok, well the effect of putting a less grippy tyre on the front reducing the problem leads me to believe that you may be transferring too much weight onto the front wheels during braking. The front wheels clearly have a lot more grip during this phase and the rear has barely any which is allowing it to pirouette around the front wheels.
To combat this, I would increase the front spring rates and/or damper compression as well as lowering the extension value to help redistribute the weight when coming off the brakes. Perhaps lower the rear springs/damper compression as well.
Is your ride height equal at both ends?
Can you think of any case where you would down grade a tire because that end of the car has too much grip?
 
How do you mean?
In the case that you and @Aussie_HSV are discussing, it sounds like the front end of the car had too much grip. When the quality of tires were lowered the car was better behaved. I was just wondering what your thoughts were about putting on lesser tires in order to get one end of the car to play nice or keep adjusting the tune to use the max grip of tires that you can.
 
Ok, well the effect of putting a less grippy tyre on the front reducing the problem leads me to believe that you may be transferring too much weight onto the front wheels during braking. The front wheels clearly have a lot more grip during this phase and the rear has barely any which is allowing it to pirouette around the front wheels.
To combat this, I would increase the front spring rates and/or damper compression as well as lowering the extension value to help redistribute the weight when coming off the brakes. Perhaps lower the rear springs/damper compression as well.
Is your ride height equal at both ends?
I've basically done all the above.
Front springs substantially stiffer than rear.
Same for compression.
With extension reversed.
Ride height only a 5mm spread, higher at front. (according to tune sheet)
This is working reasonably well with the ballast tune towards the front. (Softs all round)
I mentioned the Meds. as it was instantly recognisable how they tamed the rear on very slow corners.

Actual numbers (no laughing allowed :) )
60, 55
23.50, 19.50(min)
6 , 2
4 , 8
6 , 5
0.6 , 0.3
-0.10, 0.00

Tried lower front ARB with the fairly stiff front springs but felt better as is.
Also low ride height with soft springs on rear doesn't seem an issue.
Running diff. with 12's across the board.

Additional question.
Thoughts on rigidity improvement in this situation?
Car has it fitted.
 
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In the case that you and @Aussie_HSV are discussing, it sounds like the front end of the car had too much grip. When the quality of tires were lowered the car was better behaved. I was just wondering what your thoughts were about putting on lesser tires in order to get one end of the car to play nice or keep adjusting the tune to use the max grip of tires that you can.
I view it as a quick fix rather than a true solution. It can be used to quickly alter the characteristics of a car but reducing the overall potential grip is rarely a good idea as you will be effectively putting a cap on the performance.
Because of the way opposite tyres use each other as leverage points you are effectively removing grip from both ends and losing the benefits.
I'm not saying it doesn't work, i'm just saying it is rarely the v=best solution
I've basically done all the above.
Front springs substantially stiffer than rear.
Same for compression.
With extension reversed.
Ride height only a 5mm spread, higher at front. (according to tune sheet)
This is working reasonably well with the ballast tune towards the front. (Softs all round)
I mentioned the Meds. as it was instantly recognisable how they tamed the rear on very slow corners.

Actual numbers (no laughing allowed :) )
60, 55
23.50, 19.50(min)
6 , 2
4 , 8
6 , 5
0.6 , 0.3
-0.10, 0.00

Tried lower front ARB with the fairly stiff front springs but felt better as is.
Also low ride height with soft springs on rear doesn't seem an issue.
Running diff. with 12's across the board.

Additional question.
Thoughts on rigidity improvement in this situation?
Car has it fitted.
I will try and have a look later and see if I can work it out. Your rear spring setting is raising a few questions though, rarely a good idea to have rear springs softer than the front in an MR, you might have upset the balance a bit there
 
All in an attempt to get the rear to bite I guess.
TBH I'm getting out of control with it all.
Seem to have been there done that on so may things I've no idea what scenario I had when I used stiffer springs in the rear.
Many variations are close, but at last try those settings were my most preferred.
It was around the Red Bull Ring running on a 'Normal' deg. setting.
Ballast was 31kgs (69lbs) at -50% (full front)
Possibly running aero max.
Gearbox tuned somewhat in accordance with Priano style.
(Somehow the gearbox setting seems to alter handling, something I've never understood)

Not necessary for you to waste time trialing it, but of course appreciated if you do. :cheers:
 
All in an attempt to get the rear to bite I guess.
TBH I'm getting out of control with it all.
Seem to have been there done that on so may things I've no idea what scenario I had when I used stiffer springs in the rear.
Many variations are close, but at last try those settings were my most preferred.
It was around the Red Bull Ring running on a 'Normal' deg. setting.
Ballast was 31kgs (69lbs) at -50% (full front)
Possibly running aero max.
Gearbox tuned somewhat in accordance with Priano style.
(Somehow the gearbox setting seems to alter handling, something I've never understood)

Not necessary for you to waste time trialing it, but of course appreciated if you do. :cheers:
I've driven the car at RBR on SS in stock form and using your setup, I didn't really notice a problem with either?
A bit of wheel spin coming out of the slow corners but no more than you'd expect from a car with this amount of power. Your tune was very stable but had a touch of high speed understeer and felt a little bit soft at the rear but no major issues.
What am I looking for here?
 
Thanks for taking it for a spin and the critique. :cheers:
I'll look into the high speed understeer and stiffening the rear a bit.

Looking for? ... hopefully not much anymore.
After all, I've been following your tips along the way. :)
But it was always the very slow corner washout of the rear that I've been tackling.

640PP and RS tyres, so I guess I was looking for a faster car than stock.
Also enduro with deg. so the first thing I did was remove the huge toe.
Perhaps I broke something that didn't need fixing, although I have revisited stock suspension settings before and found them lacking compared to mine.
My driving style probably comes into play a fair bit there I guess.

Appreciate you taking it out for a run.
Happy to hear you didn't think it was complete rubbish. :D
 
I'll try and bump the power up and see if it makes a difference, in both stock form and tuned I didn't really notice any odd characteristics. Braked straight and true and power delivery was as expected for that kind of car on that kind of circuit, mostly smooth but a little fidgety coming out of slow corners and on terrain changes (1st corner is quite bumpy on the exit). It was easy enough to catch and recover if it did get loose in stock form but a little harder on yours, probably due to the bounciness of the rear, yours was harder to get loose in the first place.
I might throw a tune on it and send it to you if I can find the time đź‘Ť
 
Torque and horsepower. What a great read. I learn better with visuals and your post explained the difference so my old brain could comprehend. thank you
 
I'll try and bump the power up and see if it makes a difference, in both stock form and tuned I didn't really notice any odd characteristics. Braked straight and true and power delivery was as expected for that kind of car on that kind of circuit, mostly smooth but a little fidgety coming out of slow corners and on terrain changes (1st corner is quite bumpy on the exit). It was easy enough to catch and recover if it did get loose in stock form but a little harder on yours, probably due to the bounciness of the rear, yours was harder to get loose in the first place.
I might throw a tune on it and send it to you if I can find the time đź‘Ť
That would be brilliant. :bowdown:
Seeing as there's a flock of them, it's the yellow and blue Team Phoenix car I'm driving.
But of course only if you have the time and are keen.
You've already helped my heaps over the last week.
And it's greatly appreciated. :cheers:
 
Hey @DolHaus i had a question i was seeing if you could help me out. And i know you are busy so no rush to getting back to me. Its not very important so i can wait till you have the time.
But,,, i can not figure out what settings to mess with for the Lotus Elise '11 to get it to behave. Idk the right terminology to explain this better, but i feel like it snap to the side when i try to turn sharp. I can not get it to smoothly go into a turn and out. almost feels like the weight balance is 10 : 90 or something like that. Im sure if you have this car and rive it you would understand what I'm talking about.
Thank you❤️
Try my tune published in "1.09 update physics changes" thread, page 13, #370. With race medium at Apricot, it will turn 1:25's and is fun at 534PP, and easier at 500PP.
Cheers, Mustangxr
 
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Hi DolHaus, real nice work on the camber chapter, nice to see you use a computer for more things than a type writer. I haven't yet had the chance to do some testing with it, but as soon as I do I'll let you know what I have found (or lost).

I've decided to start back at the beginning as a tuner, not because of the 1.09 update but because there were too many holes in my knowledge bank. So many things I should have done at first, so now I'm taking the time to do it. I'm presently testing 'standard, inchup 1, & inchup 2' wheel difference, so far on the RX500 there seems to be a favor to use the standard, but these tests are still on going and not finished.

Also in the testing ground are the different track types, I've always used the default setting in the garage test tracks,
then noticed there was a choice between "low" and "real", plus there are the arcade test drives with the same choices, my tests here are totally inconclusive, I read the description but I have to test these properly before I can make a decision, I'd like to know what your view is on this matter, this is probably the first thing I should have tested when starting to do tuneups.

Another subject I'm looking into are the brakes, now with the data logger we should be able to see wheel slip (lock), I've tried with C.H. on the RX500 to get the wheels to block, first used a 5/5 balance with standard brake types, no locking, then tried 10/10, still no locking, then 10/0, still no wheels locking, got impatient and put on the race brakes, 10/10, still no wheels locking, I'm going to try with some other cars but I'd like to know one little thing before continuing these tests, using a higher number should at some point make those wheels lock? Btw for the tests I use the Indy oval, just as you as you cross the start/finish line I jam the brakes full and stay in a straight line until my speed is '0', then finish my lap and save it for the data logger. I use the car speed, wheel speed and brake options in the logger.

There are a couple of other things I'm testing but I'll keep those for a rainy day to talk to you about them (spring rates, camber, toes, transmission MLSD etc....). I'll be posting my MR2 for the 'Difficult Car Of The Month', hope to see yours there too. Keep up with the good work and thanks for your time,:cheers:.
 
About the height ride, the info in game seems to be saying the opposite of what you are, that a lower front/higher rear increases oversteer/rotation. I am assuming that is incorrect?
 
Just spent 30 minutes reading through this thread and have a couple of comments...

The limited time I spend on GT6 is on the Seasonal TT's, typically running a lot of laps in the same car, making tiny adjustments to find fractional improvements in lap times.

Camber
My experience, and that of the other seasonal TT tuners I've talked to, is camber is still best when set at 0 0 in 1.09. Lap times slowly deteriorate as you add camber. This is true for all the tyre compounds I've run so far.

LSD Initial
Although I haven't tested this specifically for a long time, my experience is that an initial of 5 is closest to locked. The more you increase Initial away from 5, the softer the diff engages.

Power/torque and ppts
When tuning for a specific ppt level (and using the power limiter), you want to maximise BHP. Due to the way the ppts work, this means you want the lowest torque you can get - less torque means you can have more power. This has proven to give the fastest lap times irrespective of the nature of the track (fast/open or tight/twisty).

So you should pick the combination of parts that disproportionately increase power vs torque then adjust the gearing to suit this.
 
Just spent 30 minutes reading through this thread and have a couple of comments...

The limited time I spend on GT6 is on the Seasonal TT's, typically running a lot of laps in the same car, making tiny adjustments to find fractional improvements in lap times.

Camber
My experience, and that of the other seasonal TT tuners I've talked to, is camber is still best when set at 0 0 in 1.09. Lap times slowly deteriorate as you add camber. This is true for all the tyre compounds I've run so far.

LSD Initial

Although I haven't tested this specifically for a long time, my experience is that an initial of 5 is closest to locked. The more you increase Initial away from 5, the softer the diff engages.

Power/torque and ppts
When tuning for a specific ppt level (and using the power limiter), you want to maximise BHP. Due to the way the ppts work, this means you want the lowest torque you can get - less torque means you can have more power. This has proven to give the fastest lap times irrespective of the nature of the track (fast/open or tight/twisty).

So you should pick the combination of parts that disproportionately increase power vs torque then adjust the gearing to suit this.

I couldn't disagree more. From my testing and experiences, camber is beneficial to both handling and lap times. There does seem to be a beneficial sweet spot for camber for each car. It takes a little effort to find that spot, but once you do, you're golden. Once you go past the sweet spot though, lap times will deteriorate, pretty rapidly. I am having no problem in using camber as a beneficial gain to my lap times. Since update 1.09, I have yet to see a situation where 0/0 camber was faster....but then again, I'm not trying to add camber to an existing pre 1.09 tune or just adding it after the rest of the suspension is tuned. Tune the rest of the suspension accordingly and you should see a difference.
 
I'm not adding camber to a pre 1.09 tune.

Personally, camber would always be one of the last parts of the suspension I'd adjust (like ARBs)... I'd use it to fine tune the balance of the car.

I'm interested where in the process you would tune camber and how you think it interacts with other suspension components?
 
I've only tried set ups with camber from four different tuners post 1.9, each one has been quicker when I removed camber.

It really would be interesting to know how to make a tune with camber that is faster than no camber, so far I've not been able to accomplish it with my own set ups.

Until then, I'll continue to try random set ups to see if any of the tuning threads has cracked it.
 
I'm not adding camber to a pre 1.09 tune.

Personally, camber would always be one of the last parts of the suspension I'd adjust (like ARBs)... I'd use it to fine tune the balance of the car.

I'm interested where in the process you would tune camber and how you think it interacts with other suspension components?

My apologies, I didn't mean to imply that you personally added camber to pre-existing tunes, but I have seen people trying to take that approach, that's why I said that. Camber is the 4th aspect of the car I tune after taking in consideration the tires I'm using and the track I'm on and then, the RH, SR, and toe, respectively. I then tune the ARB to match the rest of the suspension settings. Like I've said before, while tuning with camber now, I have had lap time gains up to .350 on some cars but never have I had the addition of camber hurt my lap times since the update. Maybe the thing that separates us is driving style because that can also affect things in regards to camber. At any rate, I never said that you were wrong in what you said, only that I personally disagree with it. đź‘Ť My apologies if I didn't convey it that way. :cheers:
 
Wow sorry guys, I didn't get any notifications for any of this so apologies for the delay.

@TurnLeft Always find your work interesting to read through so please keep me up to date with your findings. đź‘Ť

About the height ride, the info in game seems to be saying the opposite of what you are, that a lower front/higher rear increases oversteer/rotation. I am assuming that is incorrect?
The way I have described it is the way it works, raised front = sharper turn in / raised rear = increased stability

Just spent 30 minutes reading through this thread and have a couple of comments...

The limited time I spend on GT6 is on the Seasonal TT's, typically running a lot of laps in the same car, making tiny adjustments to find fractional improvements in lap times.

Camber
My experience, and that of the other seasonal TT tuners I've talked to, is camber is still best when set at 0 0 in 1.09. Lap times slowly deteriorate as you add camber. This is true for all the tyre compounds I've run so far.

LSD Initial
Although I haven't tested this specifically for a long time, my experience is that an initial of 5 is closest to locked. The more you increase Initial away from 5, the softer the diff engages.

Power/torque and ppts
When tuning for a specific ppt level (and using the power limiter), you want to maximise BHP. Due to the way the ppts work, this means you want the lowest torque you can get - less torque means you can have more power. This has proven to give the fastest lap times irrespective of the nature of the track (fast/open or tight/twisty).

So you should pick the combination of parts that disproportionately increase power vs torque then adjust the gearing to suit this.

Camber- There are a few tricks that need to be applied to make camber work correctly and it is not a fix all solution by any means. When setting camber you need to adjust your Toe settings as the two are very much linked, I'm working on a guide to relative adjustments but it will take a while to collect the data. Camber can be very beneficial on some tracks and a hindrance on others, the same goes for the car you are using and how you are using it. I would never say that you must use camber to make your car fast, it just doesn't work like that.

LSD Initial - Lower settings are definitely "open", A fully locked diff would be 60/60/60. The thing you are experiencing is not the effect of a locked diff but more the effect of a load spike when going from throttle to lifting. At extremes (ie. 5/60/5 60/60/60) the effect feels very similar but it is a different cause entirely.
If you try both of them you will notice that the 5/60/5 rotates very suddenly when the throttle is lifted, this is because its gone from locked (wheels spinning at the same speed) to open (wheels can spin at vastly different speeds allowing faster rotation). The one set at 60/60/60 will have no sudden snap round because there is no change in differential wheel speed during different phases.
The diff engages softer at higher numbers because the change in wheel speed between various phases is lessened and therefore less violent. The Initial is just pre-load, it sets the baseline amount of differential speed between the two wheels, the lower the setting, the higher the speed differential can be, any setting set lower than the Initial won't work properly.

Power/Torque - Never dismiss the importance of torque and the original question referred to limited to bhp levels. At the very top end of performance cars BHP is generally the deciding factor because it allows you to gain a lot of speed when you are not moving a lot of weight. In less specialised road vehicles torque can be way more important for dragging your heavy ass out of a slow corner so you can utilise the BHP more. Less torque does not mean more power, torque and BHP are the same thing described in different ways after all.
 
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