Well as far as the Jogo as shown I can't "drive" due to some stat run page ....gee I feel ashamed. Obviously you haven't raced with me. I don't judge people I haven't raced with nor should you, it's just foolish.
First off the "Tunes" as I stated aren't taking into consideration game physics, let alone real world physics (which the games physics are close to a certain degree, but we could go on for days on semantics of real versus virtual).
As he stated he just tunes for how he drives admittedly. (I appreciate the honesty and that clarifies this along with his feedback. And I regard that's more honorable then some trying to use a lame stat board to base ones worth on. For that I'm willing to share some information and settings with privately).
Now for how Weight transfer works in game (and in real life) some of the setups are too stiff or don't give enough flexibility for even a Rear engine - Rear wheel drive platform.
Secondly there is a group of us that would get together in GT5 and "Club race" Ruf's (namely BTR's and Yellowbird's) and share tunes on a friendly and collaborative context. Most know me as a very sharing and helping individual, but now considering the approach by some people so far, they can forget them being shared publicly due to the asinine and fickle replies.
Assuming just because its inserted into a console there's no heritage or lineage based on the real world concepts is close minded. Evidently you don't follow Kaz or haven't seen how GT has evolved to include real world physics.
There's some truth in this game, yet there's some Arcade like qualities that make it easy to link up with your friends and have some casual-sim racing.
Now some clues on setup:
First off with rear engine cars there's obviously not a lot of weight up front, so you don't need much spring rate in the front, same with dampening. You actually should "sponge" up the inertial mass so that it doesn't cause the rear to come around more, yet use it in cornering. Also to keep the sprung weight from lifting the cars rear mass as you go over the bumps, you should counter this with more Extension dampening in the rear, forcing the nose to compress, not the rear to lift, etc.
When the car brakes the mass in the rear is projected forward, when you go into a turn and the forward "interia" is displaced, it wants to keep going forward while the car turns, therefore inducing more force or yaw to spin the car.
Well if you take that into consideration and adjust your dampening and spring rates you can counter the force and actual use it during braking to benefit cornering. Then when exiting you can lay the weight down to put the weight on the wheels. If you adjust the suspension more you will get a better benefit on "faster out".
Toe, too extreme of toe angles can mess with the geometry of the car that's really fickle to begin with. Minimize your toe angles up front more than your rear. I'll state I start with .3Front / .10 Rear and adjust from there. Some tracks I even go to extreme of -.3 in front.
As far as Camber, camber come in handy when you think of how the game artist attention to detail and how they have modeled most cars to their true nature and their suspension. The 911,has a "Semi-Trailing arm suspension and how it cambers on compression should be taken into consideration. So some camber can help, running with 0 camber in this game helps some cars but not all. Try on most of them a range of 0.3 - 1.8 on either front or rear. Nothing more, nothing less.
Gears, Porsche boxster engines give good torque output fairly early on, adjsut your gearing using a low final ratio to start and tweak from there.
Also as far as weight, 911's are known for being light cars with nice torque, I found in most occasions a stage 3 weight reduction and then "de-tuning" engine for PP gives the best output so far.
Sorry for late reply as I'm at work and trying to compile all in one reply.
This was just for constructive feedback, and attacks at me and my driving, nor tuning are not needed. If my original post came off mean I was just being blunt.
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