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- London, ON
- A_Mindful_Place
Taking on the 90s with a piece of outdated kit
Racing a 12 year old championship is still fun
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Yeah, you’ll have to test what works for you. Various driving skills and how you play, determine how you deal with the AI. Some use qualifying/time trial to set up their grids. Some use finishing order to set up grids. Some may always start from the front, middle or rear of the grid.Hi all, long time lurker. THANK YOU for the effort you’ve all put in and documented here. The love for the game is inspirational - and taking effect! Hence the post As it took me about a week to fully read everything here, super additional thanks to Roflwaffle for compiling via the video. Nicely produced, too!
This thread has totally overhauled my interest in the game, having now spent time creating a couple solid custom grids of my own (nfs/childhood dream cars…love that i can name the AI drivers after the nfs most wanted “blacklist” rivals; 2023 imsa replica grid as the other), I have a GT singleplayer horizon filled with potential!
I write to ask about balance. Right now I have avoided fussing with downforce (usually go dead center for all cars), rather balancing first around power/weight and then around having similar acceleration speeds (far left side of tuning sheet). beyond that, it’s running practice sessions and making finer adjustments based on actual AI performance.
I do have a few questions I have developed in playing around with custom “bop,” going to toss them in here, using the IMSA Gr3 cars as an example:
-is the above the right way to go about it?
-is the process going to require testing/retuning on EVERY track I intend to race on? in other words, should I plan on having tuning sheets for each ‘race in the season?’
-does anyone know how to tune an MR/RR car in a way the AI can use? Seems as I have done personal laps in the NSX/650s and tuned their suspensions to my liking to improve lap time, the consequence is the AI driver falling further behind when I hop into a different car
-any opinions on using downforce to settle ‘disputes?’ I have read that the AI actually benefits from LACK of downforce, so a little confused on how to think about what to do here (again, the “different tracks” question rears its head)
-what to do when I create the problem where my slowest car can’t soup up to match the performance of its classmates? certainly, the answer involves slowing the others down, but i’m curious if there are “best” ways to handle this (conceptually, ECS vs Ballast vs Limiter)
-finally, has this community agreed upon the right way to tune down one’s car for fair contest against a weak-boosted AI? someone once wrote “82 on the power limiter” but I have had mixed results. Driving mostly Daytona the past week (where keeping throttle open is of more relative importance than other tracks) I found I need to sit around 90-95 to match their top speed on the straights.
Hope to become a useful contributor, appreciate this thread and thank you in advance for any reply opinions!
Since I like to use every car on my grid(s), I'll tune each individual car to the way I like to drive it. I let the chips fall where they may as far as performance.Hi all, long time lurker. THANK YOU for the effort you’ve all put in and documented here. The love for the game is inspirational - and taking effect! Hence the post As it took me about a week to fully read everything here, super additional thanks to Roflwaffle for compiling via the video. Nicely produced, too!
This thread has totally overhauled my interest in the game, having now spent time creating a couple solid custom grids of my own (nfs/childhood dream cars…love that i can name the AI drivers after the nfs most wanted “blacklist” rivals; 2023 imsa replica grid as the other), I have a GT singleplayer horizon filled with potential!
I write to ask about balance. Right now I have avoided fussing with downforce (usually go dead center for all cars), rather balancing first around power/weight and then around having similar acceleration speeds (far left side of tuning sheet). beyond that, it’s running practice sessions and making finer adjustments based on actual AI performance.
I do have a few questions I have developed in playing around with custom “bop,” going to toss them in here, using the IMSA Gr3 cars as an example:
-is the above the right way to go about it?
-is the process going to require testing/retuning on EVERY track I intend to race on? in other words, should I plan on having tuning sheets for each ‘race in the season?’
-does anyone know how to tune an MR/RR car in a way the AI can use? Seems as I have done personal laps in the NSX/650s and tuned their suspensions to my liking to improve lap time, the consequence is the AI driver falling further behind when I hop into a different car
-any opinions on using downforce to settle ‘disputes?’ I have read that the AI actually benefits from LACK of downforce, so a little confused on how to think about what to do here (again, the “different tracks” question rears its head)
-what to do when I create the problem where my slowest car can’t soup up to match the performance of its classmates? certainly, the answer involves slowing the others down, but i’m curious if there are “best” ways to handle this (conceptually, ECS vs Ballast vs Limiter)
-finally, has this community agreed upon the right way to tune down one’s car for fair contest against a weak-boosted AI? someone once wrote “82 on the power limiter” but I have had mixed results. Driving mostly Daytona the past week (where keeping throttle open is of more relative importance than other tracks) I found I need to sit around 90-95 to match their top speed on the straights.
Hope to become a useful contributor, appreciate this thread and thank you in advance for any reply opinions!
Sounds like testing has the last laugh, then. Worth it! Many thanks for the thoughtful and thorough response. A lot of tinkering to comeYeah, you’ll have to test what works for you. Various driving skills and how you play, determine how you deal with the AI. Some use qualifying/time trial to set up their grids. Some use finishing order to set up grids. Some may always start from the front, middle or rear of the grid.
For Gr.3 and Gr.4 car BOP, I just leave cars stock. When I create a car to Gr.4 specs, I try to set the downforce(some road Cars with the optional aero, can match the Gr.4 cars aero), power, weight, gearing, differential, as close to a similar car as possible and/or the real world race car specs. For example: AMG GT R set to Gr.4 SLS specs. Suspension settings mimic PD’s default settings for all my cars(including MR cars). So, AI don’t have a problem with the suspension physics programming.
My Gr.4 only races have BOP off. I find the AI are still competitive. The M4 is still sometimes with its performance. Usually the slowest Gr.4(in “real” GT4 grids).
Built cars like my Gr.A grids of JTCC/DTM/BTCC cars. I use close to real world performance specs. Depending what I want to replicate, I do detune the R32 sometimes. Other than that, I let them dominate like they have done in JTCC and ATCC. With JTC(Evo IV, Civic TC and Integra) I get PP nearly Identical. Adjusting the Evo AWD split towards more rearward bias.
Classic cars require lots of trial and error. I’ve got good balance with my various classic 1969-1973 cars. Messing with gearing, power & weight. Which comes down to set up. I don’t have the cars at optimum set up, for me. The AI use all the aids to drive them with more control than I do. I have to use more caution which allows the AI to outperform me at certain tracks.
Not sure which MR & RR cars you’re using, but for Group 5 replicas, I use this: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/group-5-classics.410871/
Now, the full throttle and Daytona thing. Yes, it’s a pain at times. I get AI performing well with certain cars. Then, other times I pass them all on the first lap with other set ups. It’s a weird thing.
Obeyed in the worst possible way. AI slows down a bit, stays on its line or slightly incurves its way in the middle of the track, (sometimes taking a defensive line), just like in GT5.Excellent races.
Are the flags being obeyed by the AI now? Just curious.
I didn't, they are all made and shared by GT7 players. I just modified the Lola Rebellion livery since it was possible, to have a second one with the number #12 on it.Wow, i was looking to do something similar.
Did you do the liveries yourself?
Do you mind to share the list of the car models involved?
How come their PP numbers are different?Finally finished all 20 cars.
Had to buy for all 20 cars the following items so it wasn't cheap but well worth it.
Increase body Rigidity
Fully customizable manual transmission
Intermediate tires
They all have the same setup and tune.
SO I'll know when the AI is cheating.
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