Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread
- Thread starter 05XR8
- 2,936 comments
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- 17
- Australia
Would it be fine if I use this random ballast and performance limit list for any one make race I do in sophy custom races? ^^^^^
- 118
- Boston, USA
- pritchyTim
I’m not eligible to answer but I’d assume as much - we can probably have confidence in it yielding better racing than keeping them all the same!
I’m so glad you brought this back into view - think I missed it when it was first posted. Eager to better understand the process for figuring out the strategy split. Is there much logic to it or do you kind of just get lucky when AI fuel tanks go below threshold right around the time you start lap N? I’m sure some trial and error can help by adjusting fuel consumption and lap count to improve your chances at lining up the above… appreciate any tips! @wowbaggerBR
- 3,018
- Curitiba
I can't see why it wouldn't. Just keep in mind that this was made for a one make series. If you have different cars, you might want to make some changes. The 911 CS 1995 car is at the user car dealer now: you can buy 20 of them and apply my liveries and make a series of your own.
And you can ask ChatGPT to make you a new list before each race: what I find works best is:
- no more than 4 cars with 100% performance
- ballast and performance limiters must be combined for greater entropy
- you can set more agressive ranges, like 92 to 100% performance, but ask so that no more than 2 cars are at the lowest performance level
- ask so that there are not two cars with the same ballast and performance setting, you want mixed PP for greater entropy
I just automate everything because this is a programmer curse lol.
Absolutely. Each Sophy instance on track behaves absolutely the same. In keeping every Sophy driving absolutely the same car, you will make some boring races. Races must present some level of chaos and unpredictability, so making cars a bit different will make things feel alive in one make races, just like in real life: no two race cars will be absolutely the same.I’m not eligible to answer but I’d assume as much - we can probably have confidence in it yielding better racing than keeping them all the same!
I’m so glad you brought this back into view - think I missed it when it was first posted. Eager to better understand the process for figuring out the strategy split. Is there much logic to it or do you kind of just get lucky when AI fuel tanks go below threshold right around the time you start lap N? I’m sure some trial and error can help by adjusting fuel consumption and lap count to improve your chances at lining up the above… appreciate any tips! @wowbaggerBR
I didn't quite understand, I think, the second part. I have been doing this series now since the update (13 races, we are at the 9th now, Red Bull Ring). Every race is a 100km event (Road Atlanta is 1h30 race simulating 12h and Le Mans, yet to be run, is a 2h event simulating 24h) with the same 5x fuel comsumption setting: it makes for basically mandatory 2 pit stops in the 100km races. In a 25 laps event, you are looking at windows at 10 and 20, for instance. In the enduros, there are more pits and even some tire changing (I don't remember the setting for tire wear, but it isn't that high because I cannot keep up with Sophy and mind my tires at the same time).
The only way I can stop at the same laps most races (if not all, in some races all Sophy drivers stopped at the same lap, most races they split) is pulling some Scott Dixon and running fuel mix 2 and/or short shifting. In Laguna Seca, I even managed to go one lap better with some Sophies and that saved my race because I was 16th, but managed to salvage a 5th by having to make a shorter stop a lap after at the end and that was the same for the Sophies who could do one lap more, so the end result was pretty different from the starting grid.
I won the first race out of luck: I started at the front and I am good at Interlagos. That didn't happen ever since, my best result other than that win is a 2nd at the Road Atlanta endurance and I got some top tens. And finished last at Brands Hatch because I am **** there.
Edit: Just for clarification: adding weight and limiting power affect the way the car uses fuel. This is why you can make Sophy present some randomness.
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So I finally got a chance to jump on. Good news is I already own 20 of the 22’s and a lot of them already have a lot of the parts for the base set up, the bad news is I wide bodied half of them. Think that will have any effect other than not being able to use Vikings liveries? Thanks again for all the info and videos!!!
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- 17
- Australia
Is it possible to FURTHER restrict my car WHILE having bop on? There’s a couple of tracks where it’s too easy.. even with bop on, boost on weak, professional diff, etc.. even with bop off it’s too easy against sophy in SOME tracks, others tho it’s great and very competitive.
- 1,231
- United Kingdom
- theufc33
Are you using Racing: Hard tyres for Group B/4/3, and Racing: Medium for Group 2/1?
The AI will only use the default tyres that the car comes with, with the exception of, if the car comes with road tyres, if you equip it with Racing: Hard and assign the car to the AI, they will drive with Racing: Hard.
For racing cars, this is more for regular AI until Sophy can drive in the rain, but you don't need to buy Intermediate or Heavy Wet tyres, if it's a racing car then the AI will automatically start the race with them or swap during a pit stop.
Do note that when transitioning from a wet tyre to a dry tyre, in racing cars, the AI will always change to Racing: Soft.
Not sure about road cars, but they may not pit for wets in the first place since their tyres can handle wet weather better.
CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,374
- United States
- 118
- Boston, USA
- pritchyTim
The pre-race-lobby downtune trick should still work with Sophy as it does with Reggy, no?
To test it, create another tune sheet that completely nerfs your car. Launch the race with your usual tune as the active sheet. Before entering the race gameplay, itself, go to Car Settings and flip to the bad tune sheet. My guess is Sophy will not slow to match your speed.
Ultimately, each driver/car/circuit combo will call for a slightly different spec. Maybe “98 on the power restrictor” ends up being your go-to to match Sophy to your preferred difficulty, as an example.
Maybe you’re done at this point. Just build a habit of flipping back to your original tune sheet before you get out of the car. I’m actively realizing it’s worth trying to launch a fresh race using this ‘balanced’ tune sheet once you find it. I haven’t done this in a long time. From payout exploits like the one on Daytona, we know the game evaluates “how hard it’s going to be for the player/tune vs. these AI/tunes” when you launch a custom race and subsequent (pre-race-lobby) tune adjustments don’t cause any reevaluation. I once determined that Reggy seemed to evaluate its ‘difficulty’ in a similar way (idk if i was right), and thus built my habit accordingly. It’s been a reaaaally long time since I tried going straight-up (or really, straight-down) against Reggy; I always start at the ‘AI’ level and then downtune to my ‘user’ level. Still, with Sophy and her lead foot (Reggy still drives at 98% throttle, necessitating the downtune) now in the picture, maybe you can just take a slightly inferior car into battle and not worry about tunesheet flipping.
Ah - as I finished writing that it dawned on me that you probably will find situations for each convention (1. downtune in pre-race, 2. launch custom race with downtune), should the second one work. If you want to create a custom grid that allows you to hop into ANY of the cars and expect balance, you still want to do the pre-race lobby sheet swap. Where you’re ALWAYS in the same car in your grid, that may not matter, and won’t land one Sophy driver in a relative lemon (the reason you can’t rely entirely on method 2).
- 17
- Australia
Thanks for the reply my man, I should’ve explained more, so I’m strictly talking about gr.3 races, I use my own gr.3 cars (20 car grid) and they obviously all have hard tyres.. I use hard tyres myself of course, the problem is even tho I turn BOP on (or even off for that matter) some tracks are just too easy.. I like having BOP on cause I like the grid to be tight for most of the race like the real GT world challenge races.. I just wanted to know if I could restrict MY car MORE while BOP is on?
Thanks for the reply 👍🏽 I tried that but didn’t like the whole “all cars separated with huge gaps after 2 or 3 laps” thing.. I like all cars sort of bunched up like the real GT3 races, thanks again friend.
My word look at this
thank you kindly sir I appreciate the advise! I’ll give it a try and see how it goes, LEGEND!
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- 52,315
- Australia
- SpacedustDaddy
So much better to simulate the Nurburgring 24H support races that featured DTM. Finished over a minute quicker than the real race, but so much fun without cars being courteous.
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CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,374
- United States
Did a 60 minute Gr4 race at LeMans today as a practice for a league series I do on Sundays. I do this to confirm weather settings, etc. Had just passed the leader at half way and dove into the pits for my stop. Had no issue getting back to the lead after all the AI had pit and had the fastest lap at 4:25.xxx. Then the rubber banding kicked in and the AI ran a 4:08 and chopped down a 15 second deficit in a single lap to be right on my bumper. Disappointing.
@pritchyTim , if I use Dayzura’s set up for all the mx5’s, do I still need to use a user set up for myself? And if so, how do I do that? I am not a setup maker AT ALL. Or can I just take myself to 95 on the ecu or power restrictor compared to the other cars at 98? Thanks!!
- 118
- Boston, USA
- pritchyTim
I think you are conflating two different conventions:
1) Dayzura is tuning the AI grid such that they don’t all drive identically and thus battle each other
2) In order to fine-tune difficulty againt the AI, a player can make tune adjustments during the pre-race screen.
2a) Because Reggy (non-Sophy) AI only uses 98% throttle, this method is important for ensuring a fair fight in those races.
In neither case do you need to have any awareness of how to tune cars aside from knowing how to open the tune sheet
So, in your case, I assume you’ll be taking your MX-5 grid all across America, at the very least. When you race at Road Atlanta, against Sophy, just hop in the car and drive! When you go to Watkins Glen, not only will you have to rebuild/save the custom race, you will need to downtune your own car during the pre-race screen else you’ll effortlessly cruise to the front with the in-built advantage (weird game design; we do our best!). Because you’ll want to do this at Watkins Glen, NOT do this at Trial Mountain (Sophy-eligible), and then do this at Daytona (Reggy AI only), it is best practice to simply save this ‘downtune’ as its own tune sheet. This way, you flip to it quickly as you launch a race, and flip back away from it quickly before getting out of the car. I often use the premade races to do this, they give you easy access to a ‘car settings’ screen when you finally exit your custom race.
The exact downtune will differ between you and me because we drive at different abilities. It also depends on the car and circuit. Some grids require I drop below 90 to make it fair - others see me falling behind at 95 (power restrictor numbers, assuming the ‘original/AI’ tune is set at 100). Play around with it for the first few corners and then just exit / adjust until you lock in on something that feels good.
If you ever go back to Race Settings from the pre-race screen, make adjustments therein, and then “go race,” you’ll have effectively reset everything to whatever your active tune is, so bear that in mind. If I notice I need to change grid order/lap count/weather/etc., I’ll flip to my ‘original/AI/fullpower’ (i should have named this haha) tune sheet, make the race settings adjustments, then flip back to my ‘user/downtune’ sheet once I’m back in the pre-race screen.
Probably more description than needed, but hope it’s cleared up. For avoidance of confusion, I never purposefully launch a Custom Race with my car’s tune already at a disadvantage to the AI’s, Sophy or otherwise. Quicker drivers than I am may need to play differently!
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I follow everything, switching to my detune sheet right before I go race, the part above is the only thing I don’t get. Do I need to switch back to the regular tune immediately after the race? Thank you so much. This is invaluable info since I don’t have Sophy. Dayzuras tunes for the si have ECU at 98 and power restrictor at 97. Should I leave those there for tge ai or set them both to 100%. Sorry for all the questions!!! Thank you again for your time! I really appreciate the help.I think you are conflating two different conventions:
1) Dayzura is tuning the AI grid such that they don’t all drive identically and thus battle each other
2) In order to fine-tune difficulty againt the AI, a player can make tune adjustments during the pre-race screen.
2a) Because Reggy (non-Sophy) AI only uses 98% throttle, this method is important for ensuring a fair fight in those races.
In neither case do you need to have any awareness of how to tune cars aside from knowing how to open the tune sheet
So, in your case, I assume you’ll be taking your MX-5 grid all across America, at the very least. When you race at Road Atlanta, against Sophy, just hop in the car and drive! When you go to Watkins Glen, not only will you have to rebuild/save the custom race, you will need to downtune your own car during the pre-race screen else you’ll effortlessly cruise to the front with the in-built advantage (weird game design; we do our best!). Because you’ll want to do this at Watkins Glen, NOT do this at Trial Mountain (Sophy-eligible), and then do this at Daytona (Reggy AI only), it is best practice to simply save this ‘downtune’ as its own tune sheet. This way, you flip to it quickly as you launch a race, and flip back away from it quickly before getting out of the car. I often use the premade races to do this, they give you easy access to a ‘car settings’ screen when you finally exit your custom race.
The exact downtune will differ between you and me because we drive at different abilities. It also depends on the car and circuit. Some grids require I drop below 90 to make it fair - others see me falling behind at 95 (power restrictor numbers, assuming the ‘original/AI’ tune is set at 100). Play around with it for the first few corners and then just exit / adjust until you lock in on something that feels good.
If you ever go back to Race Settings from the pre-race screen, make adjustments therein, and then “go race,” you’ll have effectively reset everything to whatever your active tune is, so bear that in mind. If I notice I need to change grid order/lap count/weather/etc., I’ll flip to my ‘original/AI/fullpower’ (i should have named this haha) tune sheet, make the race settings adjustments, then flip back to my ‘user/downtune’ sheet once I’m back in the pre-race screen.
Probably more description than needed, but hope it’s cleared up. For avoidance of confusion, I never purposefully launch a Custom Race with my car’s tune already at a disadvantage to the AI’s, Sophy or otherwise. Quicker drivers than I am may need to play differently!
- 17
- Australia
Would you know how I would be able to restrict my car further while bop is “on” ?I think you are conflating two different conventions:
1) Dayzura is tuning the AI grid such that they don’t all drive identically and thus battle each other
2) In order to fine-tune difficulty againt the AI, a player can make tune adjustments during the pre-race screen.
2a) Because Reggy (non-Sophy) AI only uses 98% throttle, this method is important for ensuring a fair fight in those races.
In neither case do you need to have any awareness of how to tune cars aside from knowing how to open the tune sheet
So, in your case, I assume you’ll be taking your MX-5 grid all across America, at the very least. When you race at Road Atlanta, against Sophy, just hop in the car and drive! When you go to Watkins Glen, not only will you have to rebuild/save the custom race, you will need to downtune your own car during the pre-race screen else you’ll effortlessly cruise to the front with the in-built advantage (weird game design; we do our best!). Because you’ll want to do this at Watkins Glen, NOT do this at Trial Mountain (Sophy-eligible), and then do this at Daytona (Reggy AI only), it is best practice to simply save this ‘downtune’ as its own tune sheet. This way, you flip to it quickly as you launch a race, and flip back away from it quickly before getting out of the car. I often use the premade races to do this, they give you easy access to a ‘car settings’ screen when you finally exit your custom race.
The exact downtune will differ between you and me because we drive at different abilities. It also depends on the car and circuit. Some grids require I drop below 90 to make it fair - others see me falling behind at 95 (power restrictor numbers, assuming the ‘original/AI’ tune is set at 100). Play around with it for the first few corners and then just exit / adjust until you lock in on something that feels good.
If you ever go back to Race Settings from the pre-race screen, make adjustments therein, and then “go race,” you’ll have effectively reset everything to whatever your active tune is, so bear that in mind. If I notice I need to change grid order/lap count/weather/etc., I’ll flip to my ‘original/AI/fullpower’ (i should have named this haha) tune sheet, make the race settings adjustments, then flip back to my ‘user/downtune’ sheet once I’m back in the pre-race screen.
Probably more description than needed, but hope it’s cleared up. For avoidance of confusion, I never purposefully launch a Custom Race with my car’s tune already at a disadvantage to the AI’s, Sophy or otherwise. Quicker drivers than I am may need to play differently!
I love doing gr3 races with bop on cause it feels most realistic, but some tracks such as spa and monza (that I’m very good at) I find it abit too easy (against sophy) I can’t open up the “power restricter” setting while BOP is ON, I was just wondering if there was another way to restrict my car? (While bop is on) I use the same set up tune as sophy, same tyres same everything and use MY gr3 cars for sophy, (I’m new to this lol) thank you.
- 3,978
- London, Ontario
- voodoovaj
I did a DTM setup with Sophy and I think I have found a very good balance point. So, here's my ingredients (and a video for the short attention spans). BTW, I improved on the balance after this video.
So here is what I found works best.
I recommend sticking with only the Merc EVO, Sierra Cosworth, and BMW M3 Evo. Don't add in the Audi quattro because it can be to fast in a straight line. The DTW Alfa has too much grip to be on equal terms, if you want to add it, you have to severely handicap it. I recommend avoiding it.
Tune to 650pp. RH tires. FULL aero, even the diffuser, and turn all the downforce to maximum. I also found that you need the ride height pretty high (or the cars won't turn). 100-115. After that, max out the suspension settings (max roll bars, max damping and rebound, max spring rates). They all seem to behave nicely at that point.
In the video, you can hear the D2 Mercs have been engine swapped. Engine swapping works fine. but reduce the weight so they don't have too much horsepower. You're shooting to get the cars between 400-430hp. I find mid to high end turbos work best. The low end turbo cars work ok, but they lose their breath on long straights.
You need about 9 different cars and you can use different engine set ups.
I'm waiting for the BMW evo to come back to the UCD so I can build an engine swapped version. I've been playing with it over the weekend, and it some of the best racing in the game.
So here is what I found works best.
I recommend sticking with only the Merc EVO, Sierra Cosworth, and BMW M3 Evo. Don't add in the Audi quattro because it can be to fast in a straight line. The DTW Alfa has too much grip to be on equal terms, if you want to add it, you have to severely handicap it. I recommend avoiding it.
Tune to 650pp. RH tires. FULL aero, even the diffuser, and turn all the downforce to maximum. I also found that you need the ride height pretty high (or the cars won't turn). 100-115. After that, max out the suspension settings (max roll bars, max damping and rebound, max spring rates). They all seem to behave nicely at that point.
In the video, you can hear the D2 Mercs have been engine swapped. Engine swapping works fine. but reduce the weight so they don't have too much horsepower. You're shooting to get the cars between 400-430hp. I find mid to high end turbos work best. The low end turbo cars work ok, but they lose their breath on long straights.
You need about 9 different cars and you can use different engine set ups.
I'm waiting for the BMW evo to come back to the UCD so I can build an engine swapped version. I've been playing with it over the weekend, and it some of the best racing in the game.
- 118
- Boston, USA
- pritchyTim
“Need” is probably a strong word, but yes. This is so you can do another race in the future with expected (balanced) behavior.
Leave those there, if you want to use Dayzura’s method for one-make balancing.
It should help to separate your thinking about Dayzura’s tunes from my “user tune sheet” concepts. They are different things and work independently of one another (using both is good, don’t get me wrong).
I don’t believe you can - BoP invalidates active tune sheets so even if you could touch something I can’t imagine it would do much. Only way to do this is to set the AI cars’ tunes to match the current BoP and turn BoP off.
There are tables online for you to reference but I think it may also be possible to use the Lobby feature to set up a BoP-enabled race and view/copy the tune for offline use. Maybe I’m making that up?
- 17
- Australia
I think I heard something like this this before I’ll have a look around thanks bro 👍🏽
- 27
- United States
Hi and sorry for the late reply - been busy and haven't logged in lately!
To clarify things for you - after you have purchased all the parts listed in the guide video, apply the base setup in the video to ALL cars including your own. This is crucial to achieving the desired outcome for these cars, as the setup aligns the cars with basic IMSA Mazda MX-5 Cup series regulations (as best as I could find) and was the goal of this custom setup.
The basic series regulations I followed were:
181hp maximum capacity
2475lbs minimum weight (2474 was as close as I could get ingame)
102mm minimum ride height
Other items I aligned in the setup were:
Gears matching as closely as I could manage to real world examples.
Balanced the car to have a 50/50 weight distribution, by moving the ballast, as the real world car achieves close to that (from what info I could find)
So once you have the correct parts, the base setup brings all the cars within regulation specifications. The rest of the settings bring a decent balance to the cars for the AI and for the player. I suggest making small changes to each individual AI car after the base setup has been applied - camber, toe, anti-roll would be a good place to start, small changes between the cars for performance variety, maybe add a little ballast to some, and reduce hp on a few cars (to somewhere between 175 and 181).
If you want to adjust your car (after applying base setup) but stay within the regulations, only use Racing Hard tires, don't adjust the gears, don't go below 2474lbs, don't go above 181hp, and don't go below 102mm ride height. If you want to slow yourself down to better match the regular AI, slowly add ballast and/or slowly reduce power (ECU or restrictor) until you find a good balance with the AI. (this isn't needed with Sophy)
Hope that makes sense!
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- 17
- Australia
In sophy custom races, With fuel off and tyres on, they pit and change tyres (hard tyres) WAY to early..
And even with the fuel it’s confusing.. in a race with fuel on and tyres off, I’d be at the back of the grid, and by the time the entire grid pit (over a couple laps) I’d find myself at the front of the grid.. seems like sophy is messing up somewhere, does anyone else experience this? In the mean time I’m just going to turn both off.
And even with the fuel it’s confusing.. in a race with fuel on and tyres off, I’d be at the back of the grid, and by the time the entire grid pit (over a couple laps) I’d find myself at the front of the grid.. seems like sophy is messing up somewhere, does anyone else experience this? In the mean time I’m just going to turn both off.
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