Gran Turismo 7 Update 1.55 is Now Available: Physics Changes, Four New Cars, and More

  • Thread starter Famine
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Tried it myself and there is a slight difference (almost non-existent):

SSRX, Custom Race, Grid Start, no wind, no slipstream, no bumpdraft, with 10x Fuel Consumption Rate, stock IONIQ 5 N.

Overtake off:
  • Top speed (no elevation): 259 km/h
  • Min speed uphill: 257 km/h
  • Top speed downhill: 262 km/h
  • Ran out of battery right before the 7100m marker

Overtake on:
  • Top speed (no elevation): 260 km/h
  • Min speed uphill: 257 km/h
  • Top speed downhill: 262 km/h
  • Ran out of battery just after the 7000m marker

Did not test the difference in acceleration, but it should also be minimal.
I think you may have maxed out the engine speed, that's why you don't see any difference in top speed. If you test the acceleration you may see a greater effect.
 
picked up update 1.55 where I left in the previous build: nordscheleife in a GR86.

At first the FFB was weird, clipping a lot with the slightest hint of understeer. It even clipped in weight transfers. This got me to search and test what seems to be a good approach on Fanatec wheels (CSL elite in my case): put the wheel in auto setting a the game in 5/5 to begin with.
Immediately feel was much improved and that weird clipping was gone, now giving a more progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front wheels. To retain the crisp, texture feedback of the road, the drift setting went from -5 to -1 and in-game sensitivity to 10.
Wheel now feels meaty and informative.
Still lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s 😅
Good thing the transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now👌

Next I took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction. Before there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to a certain spin. Now you can catch the slings, aloe the car to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks PD!!
 
Another thing I'm interested in are the changes related to using analog sticks on the controller, a that's my main input mode. I haven't really noticed any difference there, though -- at least in the Red Bull Ring race.

I also put in a few laps in the F3500-A for the time trial. I found that car really hard to manage, but I'm guess that has more to do with the car than the controller.

I'll have to do some more driving to see if I notice any difference with the controller. So far, the effects seem pretty subtle.
Yeah, while i was testing some cars last night, such as the F3500-A & the AMG GT3, i never really noticed any difference when it comes to the analog sticks either.
 
1000016595.jpg


I really like this very discreet Wing for the Hyundai!
 
Yeah, while i was testing some cars last night, such as the F3500-A & the AMG GT3, i never really noticed any difference when it comes to the analog sticks either.
Doing Dally Race A this morning and I think I saw something different with steering on the controller. For example, if you do a hairpin you will lock your stick for a long period of time. But the animation of your hands will stuck at 90 and if the game detect your are still slowing down and still the stick at max, then the hands will turn a bit more to max turning of the car and almost hands crossing point.

So this could help dealing with tire degradation for people on controller.
 
picked up update 1.55 where I left in the previous build: nordscheleife in a GR86.

At first the FFB was weird, clipping a lot with the slightest hint of understeer. It even clipped in weight transfers. This got me to search and test what seems to be a good approach on Fanatec wheels (CSL elite in my case): put the wheel in auto setting a the game in 5/5 to begin with.
Immediately feel was much improved and that weird clipping was gone, now giving a more progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front wheels. To retain the crisp, texture feedback of the road, the drift setting went from -5 to -1 and in-game sensitivity to 10.
Wheel now feels meaty and informative.
Still lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s 😅
Good thing the transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now👌

Next I took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction. Before there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to a certain spin. Now you can catch the slings, aloe the car to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks PD!!
When Fanatec was bought out by Corsair they updated the CSL bases. I thought they stated they were no longer offering recommended setups and that auto was the optimal setting? At least, for GT7?
 
I think you may have maxed out the engine speed, that's why you don't see any difference in top speed. If you test the acceleration you may see a greater effect.
I did think there was a difference in acceleration but I thought it would be minimal and pointless to test.

Since I don't value my time though, here are the results of the IONIQ 5 N's acceleration (completely stock), with and without Overtake:

Overtake off:
0-100 km/h in 4.662s
0-200 km/h in 13.259s

Overtake on:
0-100 km/h in 4.398s
0-200 km/h in 12.321s
 
I did think there was a difference in acceleration but I thought it would be minimal and pointless to test.

Since I don't value my time though, here are the results of the IONIQ 5 N's acceleration (completely stock), with and without Overtake:

Overtake off:
0-100 km/h in 4.662s
0-200 km/h in 13.259s

Overtake on:
0-100 km/h in 4.398s
0-200 km/h in 12.321s
Basically Plaid mode on Tesla. Makes sense
 
Is needing to select a car in order for the PP to be displayed correctly normal for a physics update? Is it maybe just me? Having my group of 600 PP cars not all being at 600 is fine, but not having the correct number there until I get in each I want to drive is cumbersome.
 
Is needing to select a car in order for the PP to be displayed correctly normal for a physics update? Is it maybe just me? Having my group of 600 PP cars not all being at 600 is fine, but not having the correct number there until I get in each I want to drive is cumbersome.
Yup. Have to get in the car to get the updated PP to populate.
 
Yup. Have to get in the car to get the updated PP to populate.
Yep. It sucks. I had probably 100 cars tuned for 600pp then the physics changed last year. They all increased by a few points. Dialed out a few pp on some of them but the physics were so bad that the cars drove nothing like they used to. Now they change the physics again and most of my cars have jumped another 5-10pp making a lot of my 600pp cars really difficult to bring back in to the 600pp range without eliminating parts or going to a lower grade tire compound.

I get needing to make a few physics changes because new third party equipment (wheels/pedals) comes out and tiny tweaks to the modeling need to get done to make everything work correctly. However, changing the physics just because you feel the need to make the game feel “fresh” to the player base is crap. PD should be spending their time making new tracks and getting more cars modeled instead of changing the physics of the game. I think the player base would prefer to have more things added in to the game instead of having the game make the player base rehash all their cars and driving style.
 
picked up update 1.55 where I left in the previous build: nordscheleife in a GR86.

At first the FFB was weird, clipping a lot with the slightest hint of understeer. It even clipped in weight transfers. This got me to search and test what seems to be a good approach on Fanatec wheels (CSL elite in my case): put the wheel in auto setting a the game in 5/5 to begin with.
Immediately feel was much improved and that weird clipping was gone, now giving a more progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front wheels. To retain the crisp, texture feedback of the road, the drift setting went from -5 to -1 and in-game sensitivity to 10.
Wheel now feels meaty and informative.
Still lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s 😅
Good thing the transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now👌

Next I took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction. Before there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to a certain spin. Now you can catch the slings, aloe the car to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks PD!!

Nice write up and descriptive use of language... not sure Durex will be happy, if they discover your blatant plagiarism of one their products exec summary feedbacks mate ;)

Some superb metaphors in there :D:

'It even clipped in weight transfers'

'crisp, texture feedback of the road'

'Immediately feel was much improved'

'progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front'

'now feels meaty and informative.'

'lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s'

'transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now'

'took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction.'

'there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to (climax...).'

'catch the slings, aloe the car (...penis/sheath) to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks (Durex).'

‐-------‐---
;)
 
B80
Nice write up and descriptive use of language... not sure Durex will be happy, if they discover your blatant plagiarism of one their products exec summary feedbacks mate ;)

Some superb metaphors in there :D:

'It even clipped in weight transfers'

'crisp, texture feedback of the road'

'Immediately feel was much improved'

'progressive feedback of what’s happening with the front'

'now feels meaty and informative.'

'lacks some rumble when the tires go a bit off-road but i guess that’s now a treat only for DD’s'

'transitions/height transfer feel even better and more natural now'

'took the 86 for a Tsukuba wet shakedown to test the changes in grip on the race line to discover a much realistic behaviour when the rear breaks traction.'

'there were times that if 3rd gear got the wheels to spin, they felt like having 10x the inércia and sent you to (climax...).'

'catch the slings, aloe the car (...penis/sheath) to regain grip or hold the slide. Much improved!
Thanks (Durex).'

‐-------‐---
;)
I think you need a cold shower mate.
 
I am interested in few things. What does the change mean for controllers? Is it better or worse now? Primarily interested in what the change means for circuit experience. I try to fet gold on a controller on some tracks
 
Yep. It sucks. I had probably 100 cars tuned for 600pp then the physics changed last year. They all increased by a few points. Dialed out a few pp on some of them but the physics were so bad that the cars drove nothing like they used to. Now they change the physics again and most of my cars have jumped another 5-10pp making a lot of my 600pp cars really difficult to bring back in to the 600pp range without eliminating parts or going to a lower grade tire compound.

I get needing to make a few physics changes because new third party equipment (wheels/pedals) comes out and tiny tweaks to the modeling need to get done to make everything work correctly. However, changing the physics just because you feel the need to make the game feel “fresh” to the player base is crap. PD should be spending their time making new tracks and getting more cars modeled instead of changing the physics of the game. I think the player base would prefer to have more things added in to the game instead of having the game make the player base rehash all their cars and driving style.
Strange that PD doesn't have a refresh all cars button (or even a selection of cars that you choose). Then again, strange is PD's middle name sometimes.
 
I thought that screenshot came from my video :D

That C-HR would absolutely have been worth the investment if it hadn't been implemented in the stupidest way possible. Taking a plastic econobox and turning it into a track monster is one of the staples of the franchise, and the C-HR could have been an utter hoot if we could upgrade it to 300BHP+ so that the performance matched the wacky aero upgrades.

But no, we get a hybrid CVT which means PD gives us almost no performance upgrades, rendering it completely useless for all players.

I absolutely agree, I love upgrading unassuming crapboxes into Nordschleife munchers. No point in adding a crapbox if it will only ever stay a crapbox due to such limited upgrading... At that point it's only a waste of dev time and resources if it cant amount to anything. Which is why I was frustrated at it's shoddy implementation.

Also, your videos ROCK 🤘🏻 Small world
 
I take back what I said about not understanding the Toyota marketing angle.

I was out all day yesterday, and every time I passed a C-HR (and it turns out there's quite a few of them here!) I noticed it. That would not have happened a week ago.
 
I absolutely agree, I love upgrading unassuming crapboxes into Nordschleife munchers. No point in adding a crapbox if it will only ever stay a crapbox due to such limited upgrading... At that point it's only a waste of dev time and resources if it cant amount to anything. Which is why I was frustrated at it's shoddy implementation.

Also, your videos ROCK 🤘🏻 Small world
Low performance = more credits on custom racing events, no? :cheers:

Also, I found a trick to gain more credits by tricking the game: Set all your car's equipment to the lowest including ballast and both power restrictors, enter your custom race's rules, then when you enter the race, you can equip it all back on and it your car will still be counted as low performance. The only problem with this is, if you change your custom race's rules, you'll need to trick the game again by repeating the method. Also, the trick can also be done from the pre-race menu.
 
Low performance = more credits on custom racing events, no? :cheers:

Also, I found a trick to gain more credits by tricking the game: Set all your car's equipment to the lowest including ballast and both power restrictors, enter your custom race's rules, then when you enter the race, you can equip it all back on and it your car will still be counted as low performance. The only problem with this is, if you change your custom race's rules, you'll need to trick the game again by repeating the method. Also, the trick can also be done from the pre-race menu.
That's all very well but the C-HR is terrible for this, I've already tried. The custom race calculation depends on the PP rating of your car as we know. For every 100PP it gains, you lose some potential winnings.

This benefits cars that have a low starting point, but a very high ceiling of performance. The Jimnys, Mazda Demio, the Volvo V40 etc.

The C-HR appears to have an issue where limiting the ECU doesn't actually reduce power. As a result, it still has over 100BHP when fully nerfed, and over 200 Performance Points. When fully upgraded, it gets 175BHP.

The Mazda Demio meanwhile has about 50BHP when nerfed, resulting in a PP rating of under 200, increasing earnings. Thing is, that can be pumped back up to nearly 300BHP, so it will very handily blow the C-HR out of the water.

The C-HR is made worse still by the fact it never actually makes 175BHP, because that power is made at 6100RPM, but the CVT keeps it at 4500RPM. As a result, less powerful cars will actually quite handily outperform it in a straight line, too. The C-HR makes closer to 160BHP in reality.

Basically the C-HR is completely useless in every situation.
 
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I did think there was a difference in acceleration but I thought it would be minimal and pointless to test.

Since I don't value my time though, here are the results of the IONIQ 5 N's acceleration (completely stock), with and without Overtake:

Overtake off:
0-100 km/h in 4.662s
0-200 km/h in 13.259s

Overtake on:
0-100 km/h in 4.398s
0-200 km/h in 12.321s

Test it on the 1/4 miles drag race challenges.

Low performance = more credits on custom racing events, no? :cheers:

Also, I found a trick to gain more credits by tricking the game: Set all your car's equipment to the lowest including ballast and both power restrictors, enter your custom race's rules, then when you enter the race, you can equip it all back on and it your car will still be counted as low performance. The only problem with this is, if you change your custom race's rules, you'll need to trick the game again by repeating the method. Also, the trick can also be done from the pre-race menu.

Been aware of this method for months, works a treat doesn't it lol
 
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